When Your Home Becomes a Tourist Attraction当私人住所变成旅游景点

利莉特·马库斯/文　范婕/译

Have you ever looked at a beautiful little mews house1 in London and thought “it must be so amazing to live there？” If so， you’re not the only one. But for the people who actually do live in those homes， social media photog-raphy has changed what it means to live in a picturesque place.

你是否曾经看着伦敦一栋漂亮的马厩式小洋房，心想“住在里面肯定棒极了”？有这种想法的人并不止你一个，但对于真正住在那些房子里的人来说，社交媒体上晒出的照片已经改变了他们在如画之境的生活。

Alice Johnston is a longtime resident of Notting Hill， the London neighborhood famous for pastel-painted row houses and for being the setting of the movie of the same name. Johnston， a journalist， has complicated feelings about her Instagram-beloved hood. She lives on Portobello Road， one of the capital’s most famous streets， and has witnessed all kinds of crazy behavior committed in the pursuit of the perfect snapshot. Once， she and a friend were walking his French bulldog when a tourist asked if they could “borrow” the pup for a quick photo op. The friend and the dog consented， the Instagrammer posed with the Frenchie in front of a bright blue door and then handed over five pounds as a thank-you.

艾丽丝·约翰斯顿是伦敦诺丁山街区的常住居民。这个街区因粉彩涂绘的联排别墅而出名，也因是同名电影的拍摄地而为人熟知。身为记者的约翰斯顿对这个刷爆Instagram的网红街区有着复杂的情感。她家所在的波托贝洛街是伦敦最有名的街道之一，她在这条街上目睹了人们为拍出一张绝美照片而做出的各种疯狂行为。一次，约翰斯顿正在陪朋友遛他的法国斗牛犬，突然有位游客问他们是否可以“借”这只小狗来快速拍张照。约翰斯顿的朋友和小狗都表示同意，于是这位Instagram晒图党就在一扇亮蓝色的门前摆好姿势，与小狗合了影，然后递给约翰斯顿的朋友五英镑作酬谢。

Private lives， public places

私人生活与公共场所

In that story， everybody had a good time. But there can be a darker side to living inside what some people think is a movie set. “I was once woken up at 6 a.m. on Easter Sunday by French teenagers taking pictures outside，” Johnston says. She shares another anecdote： “One time I was changing after I got out of the shower and there was this elderly man taking a picture of my windows with an iPad.” Although the shutters were closed at the time， she was understandably rattled by the experience.

在上文的故事里，每个人都各得其所，最终愉快收场。然而，生活在别人眼中的电影拍摄地也有阴暗的一面。“某年复活节那个周日，清晨六点我就被几个在外面拍照的法国少年吵醒了。”约翰斯顿说。她还讲了另一件事：“有一回，我洗完澡出来，正在换衣服，有个老头拿iPad对着我的窗户拍照。”虽然当时百叶窗是关着的，但不难理解她还是受到了惊扰。

When private homes—and the people who live in them—become tourist attractions， clashes can occur. In more rural areas， people can put up fences or other barriers to access， but when these private homes are on public streets in some of the world’s busiest cities， what’s a resident to do？

一旦私人住所連同住在里面的人变成旅游景观，就可能发生冲突。在较偏远的农村地区，人们可以立围栏，或者设置其他阻止外人进入的障碍物，但如果私人住所位于一些世界最繁忙城市的公共街道，住户又该怎么办呢？

Different communities have taken different approaches. In Hong Kong， a group of five interconnected housing estates nicknamed “the Monster Building” became a huge selfie spot after it was featured in several Hollywood films， including “Transformers： Age of Extinction.” The mega-building is in Quarry Bay， a relatively quiet neighborhood on the eastern side of Hong Kong island that most travelers skip over. Residents of the working-class community are not able to block the building off due to the fact that there are public businesses on the ground floors. Therefore， some have taken things into their own hands by posting signs asking visitors to be respectful. A sign in English and Chinese erected by building residents reads “This is a private estate. Trespassers are strictly prohibited from all kinds of activities （including but not limited to photographing， gatherings， use of drones and yelling etc.）. We shall not take responsibility for property damage and/or personal injury caused by any accident.” However， many visitors ignore the signs or simply think of them as suggestions， and a quick scan of Instagram shows plenty of recent images taken there.

不同的社区采取了不同的应对方法。香港有一幢由五栋相连住宅楼组成的建筑，人称“怪兽大厦”，因在《变形金刚4：绝迹重生》等好几部好莱坞电影里亮相，成为人气火爆的自拍打卡地。这幢巨型大厦位于香港岛东部的鲗鱼涌，此地相对清静，大部分游客都不太会去。因为底层为商铺，所以这个工薪阶层社区的住户不能把大厦围起来。于是，有人以自己的方式应对，张贴公告要求游客懂分寸。住户立起的一块告示牌上用英汉双语写道：“此为私人住宅楼，严禁外来者进行各种活动（包括但不限于拍照、集会、使用无人机和大声喧哗）。如发生意外，造成财产损失和/或人身伤害，我们概不负责。”然而，不少游客对这类公告要么视而不见，要么就只把其当成建议。快速扫一眼Instagram，就会看到大量最近在此地拍摄的照片。

Johnston says that a pale-pink house near where she lives has become such a popular photo site that the residents have given up on trying to keep people away. Instead， they’ve put up a donation box asking people to contribute money to charity in exchange for snapping a photo.

约翰斯顿说，离她家不远有一栋淡粉色的房子，游客特别喜欢在那儿拍照，以至于住户已不再试图劝阻。他们反倒设置了一个公益箱，让人们给慈善机构捐钱，以换取照相的机会。

When your home is a piece of history

当你住的房子是历史建筑

Chuck Henderson’s grandmother， Della， was a lover of architecture—so much that she was able to commission a home in California built by the world-renowned American architect Frank Lloyd Wright. The Mrs. Clinton Walker House in Carmel-by-the-Sea was completed in 1951 and passed into the hands of Henderson and some of his relatives when Walker died. No one lives in it full time， but the different family members and their guests take turns staying there.

查克·亨德森的祖母德拉極热爱建筑艺术，她甚至委托世界知名的美国建筑师弗兰克·劳埃德·赖特为自己在加利福尼亚州建造了一栋房子。这栋位于滨海卡梅尔的克林顿·沃克夫人之家于1951年完工，沃克去世后就传给了亨德森及其部分亲属。他们谁都没有在那里长住，只是各位家庭成员以及各自的客人会轮流小住。

Wright fans will come from all over the world to try and get glimpses of some of his masterpieces. While some， like the famous Fallingwater House in Pennsylvania， are year-round attractions， others remain private residences. Many people who own homes featured in architecture textbooks have to add the cost of security measures onto other expenses like utilities and homeowners insurance.

赖特的崇拜者从世界各地赶来，都希望一睹大师之作。赖特的作品，有的是常年对外开放的旅游景点，比如宾夕法尼亚州著名的流水别墅，而其他的则是私人住所。说起建筑学教科书上的房子，许多房主除了缴纳水电费和房主保险等费用外，还得额外支付安保费。

“We put these security cameras in after we had some vandalism about six or seven years ago，” Henderson says. The vandalism in question wasn’t graffiti， though. He explains： “We have this big wooden remnant of a tree that is placed as the centerpiece of the garden by the original landscape designer. Someone cut a notch from it. It looked clean， like someone used a chainsaw or something. One of our doors—between the carport and the main house—has a bunch of nautical cork discs in a rope net and is the counterweight for the door. That has been absconded with a couple of times.”

“六七年前發生过几起故意破坏的事件，后来我们装上了这些摄像头。”亨德森说道。他所说的故意破坏事件可不是乱涂乱画。他解释说：“我们花园的中央有一块很大的树木残骸，是最初那位景观设计师设置在那儿的。有人在上面割了个凹槽，切口看上去很整齐，像是用了电锯之类的工具。另外，在车棚和主屋之间有一扇门，门上用绳网挂着一串用作配重的航海软木罗盘，这也被盗走过好几次。”

Still， though， Henderson and his family have the last laugh on the cork disc thieves—those weren’t designed by Wright and are of little， if any， value. “We have people go walking right by the ‘private property， no trespassing’ sign. We’ve had people dancing in our carport. We get a few people wandering up as a surprise， and as long as they don’t do anything wrong， we don’t try to call the police.”

不过，亨德森及其家人还是笑到了最后，因为小偷盗走的软木罗盘并不是赖特设计的，也不值什么钱。“有人走过‘私人住宅，非请勿入’的牌子，却对其视而不见；有人在我们的车棚里跳舞；还有人会突然冒出来，不过只要他们不做坏事，我们尽量不报警。”

Coming to a compromise

折中之法

When it comes to living in a much-photographed place， some people try to take the good with the bad. Johnston tries to be sympathetic to travelers coming to her hometown， recalling how she loved taking pictures of historic neighborhoods like the Marais in Paris and Alfama in Lisbon. In fact， she recently found photos of herself as a teenager hanging out at the Notting Hill Carnival， years before she moved to the capital herself. “I love to travel， so I have to be pretty understanding when people travel to where I live， and I feel lucky that it’s cool enough that people want to come where I live.”

居住在经常被拍照的地方有好有坏，有的人选择全盘接受。对来其家乡旅游的游客，约翰斯顿尽量保持包容态度，因为她记得自己曾经也非常喜欢去历史文化街区拍照，比如巴黎的玛莱区和里斯本的阿尔法玛老城区。事实上，她最近找到几张自己少女时期的照片，当时她正在参加诺丁山狂欢节的活动。几年后，她才搬来伦敦定居。“我爱旅游，所以肯定非常理解来我这里旅游的人。人们愿意来我生活的地方，这挺棒的，我觉得很荣幸。”

Henderson and his relatives have come to some compromises in order to let design buffs explore the home while also maintaining their privacy. They occasionally rent it out for photo shoots. In addition， they open the home to the public one day a year to benefit the local Carmel Heritage Society.

亨德森及其亲属则想出了几个折中的办法，既能让建筑设计爱好者们好好参观这栋房子，也能维护自家隐私。他们偶尔会把房子租出去，供人们拍照。此外，他们每年会安排一天公众开放日，所得收益捐给当地的卡梅尔遗产协会。

“For us it’s a tremendous pleasure to be able to share the house and see so many people happy and excited about it，” says Henderson. “And it allows us to be able to tell people when it is open. It gives them an option to visit and we don’t have to be the Grinch2.”

“能和大家分享这栋房子，看到那么多人为之高兴和兴奋，我们也感到格外欣喜。”亨德森说道，“有了公众开放日，我们就能告诉人们什么时候可以来。他们有机会来参观，而我们也不会扫他们的兴。”

1 mews house 马厩式洋房，由17世纪至19世纪的老式建筑改建而成，老式马车可以停在房前。这种洋房的价格非常昂贵，是伦敦社会名流和演艺人士身份的象征。