粮食里的一个文化梦

姚桃娟

王升大的“升大量足”，看起来只是“多一点”而已，究其根本，体现的则是厚道、诚信、慈悲、仁爱等最高级的经商之道。

去宁波城西的高桥，按导航走，找王升大博物馆相对还是容易的。停下车来，迎面是一座仿古风格的建筑，粉墙黛瓦，檐角高翘，古色古香，这就是宁波王升大博物馆的正楼。先在博物馆外围兜一圈，发现它地处四面环水的龙舌之地，往东过桥，还能看到后门一大片的菜地。往前走，有酒魂亭和双鱼池，还有王升大的米食、酒的加工作坊，这应该是博物馆文化功能的延伸。

在宁波，由大米制作的各式米食琳琅满目，可惜大多已淡出江湖。而王升大以米食起家，与大米有割舍不断的情感，每个月按时令制作米食，持续进行米食节活动。

从米店到博物馆

在王升大博物馆，参观者可以现场体验米食加工过程，在动静结合中，学习体验传统米食文化：“正月元宵裹汤团;二月上学状元糕;三月清明青团和黑饭;四月立夏做粉蛋;五月端午碱水粽;六月消暑藕香水塔糕;七月早稻上市灰汁团;八月中秋太婆月饼;九月九九重阳糕;十月小阳春小黄糕;十一月冬至浆板汤果、擂沙尖;十二月搡餽搡年糕。”还有巧妙地结合时俗、典故、花令，流传的古风歌谣，“正月迎春贺岁朝，高桥汤团闹元宵。南宋赵构小康王，只记汤团忘姣姣。”“二月兰花盆里香，古刹夜读张孝祥。方广老纳送糕点，殿试钦点状元郎。”传统米食、时节风俗、历史典故与时令花卉相结合，朗朗歌谣，鲜明的地方文化特色，让人美不胜收。

王六宝是王升大这块“浙江老字号”金字招牌的第四代传承人，他大名王贤定，因家中排行第六，故有此昵称。他是宁波陆宝食品有限公司的老总，也是王升大博物馆的创办人、馆长。他见我对传统米食文化兴致盎然，便自告奋勇地做起了导游。

一进博物馆，首先看到的是王升大米店籴米的模拟实景，柜台中央一只结结实实的米升子特别抢眼，仔细一看，米升子上刻写着“王升大记”字样，令人奇怪的是“升”字一竖加了“一点”，成了一个别字。这又意味着什么呢？

王六宝介绍说，升、斗是旧时粮米交易的一种计量工具，一升约为1.5斤，一斗约为15斤。当初米店有行规，卖米以升计量，掌柜以大拇指按住米升子，将高出米升子部分的米用米尺划掉，这样，老板每升子要多赚顾客一个大拇指的米量。

王升大的前身是一家米店，创办于光绪年间，创建人是他的太公王兴儒。王兴儒以农为本，农闲时划着小船，以鸬鹚捕鱼为副业。在捕鱼实践中他竟有了一项与众不同的技能，经过他调教的鸬鹚还会捕捉甲鱼，日积月累，让他成为鸬鹚王村的富裕户。大约在1889年，王兴儒在当地开起米店，取名王兴记米店。深知穷人生活艰难凄苦的王兴儒在米店开张后再三嘱咐店里的伙计，凡是买一升、两升的大多数都是买不起成斗米的穷人。如果遇到这样的顾客，量米时一定要多留一角，让利于人。这样一来，王兴记米店“升大量足，老少无欺”的口碑一传十十传百，近悦远来，生意越来越兴隆，有此口碑，王兴记米店自然而然地被称为“王升大”了。

王六宝说着，又拉过模拟实景中那个籴米人的衣袖介绍道，当时当地有句俗语“十八大岙里山人，广德湖边种田汉，买米要买王升大，布衫袖子当米袋”，说的就是王升大米店在当地的影响力。“布衫袖子当米袋”，说的是穿破旧衣衫的贫苦百姓到王升大店里来籴米时，常常脱下衣衫，绳子将两个袖口一扎用来装米。经他这么一解说，先人王兴儒体恤百姓、宅心仁厚的样子，穷苦人家生活艰难困苦的情景，生动地呈现在眼前。

对粮食对土地的敬畏

王升大博物馆开馆于2013年，共有三层，以“实景式”展现稻米粮油传统加工技艺和商品流通环节为主题，通过文物、文献、模型、图片、雕塑、绘画、实物等多种方式，展示了王升大前世今生的历史文化;同时展示原始制作器械，生产经营的大米、菜籽油、老酒、葡萄酒、味精、麻油、酱醋等产品的场景;还展示收藏、研究、陈列、生产的同为百年品牌的“双鱼贡酒”“老外公毛竹酒”。二楼主要展示与农业生产密切相关的农具，有木犁、木水车、石碾子、石磨、风箱等，通过实物、图片展示水稻从选种到育苗、插秧、耘田、施肥、灌溉、收割等整个生产过程及晒谷、脱壳、脱糠、过筛等加工程序，其中还展示宁波当地水稻种植的农谚，如耘田：“甲耘三遍，排水搁田。稻田耘三遍，谷壳薄如衣。”再如灌溉：“肥是田里金，水是大地命。”“有水没肥一半谷，有肥没水朝天哭。大暑不浇稻，到老没好谷。”这些展示具体而细微地体现了“一粥一饭当思来之不易”的深刻含义，保留与传承了农业种植的民间智慧。

如果说这些具体的展示内容是血肉的话，那么，王升大的灵魂则是“每升多一点”所包含的内在意义，是劳动者对于粮食，对于土地、对于自然万物侵入骨髓的爱惜、敬畏和感恩，并由此而滋生对民生的体恤、同情、慈悲、仁爱之心。

有两件与粮食有关的故事，写在博物馆的墙上，刻在当事人王六宝的心里。举例说一个。几十年前，父亲带着幼小的王六宝到宁波第二医院看病，看完病已是中午时分，考虑到六宝那段时间胃口不好，父亲一咬牙就带他到一家饭店吃午饭。吃饭时，父亲恰好看到，同桌的一位女士喝完啤酒吃完饭后在抽烟，一边还把烟灰弹在碗中，那碗里还有剩下的饭呀。性格温和的父亲看到这一情景，两眼直瞪那女士，生气地说：“女同志，你怎么能这样糟蹋粮食？……你这样太不应该了。”为此父亲还与她激烈地争吵起来。

“现在想来，父亲看到那碗被糟蹋的米饭，一定是想到了农民种田的艰辛和粮食的来之不易，才这么激动，由此可见，粮食在他心目中的位置是多么的至高无上。”王六宝动情地说着。

从楼下到楼上，在带我参观博物馆的过程中，王六宝口中说的最多的是厚道、诚信、珍惜、感恩、敬畏。我想，他个人投巨资创办这家粮油博物馆，既是为了怀念、告慰先人，更是为了警示现代人敬畏天地、尊重劳动、爱惜粮食吧。王升大的“升大量足”，看起来只是“多一点”而已，究其根本，体现的则是厚道、诚信、慈悲、仁爱等最高级的經商之道。

走出博物館的时候，我又回头看了看博物馆外墙上的“王升大”商标，整个图案方方正正，白底红字，清清白白，碗内盛放着三颗饱满的大米，又像一条小船上停着三只鸬鹚。“王升大”经过百年大浪淘沙，这块金字招牌的确越来越亮了。

（本文图片由程芝拍摄提供）

Museum Honors Tradition and Business Acumen

By Yao Taojuan

Museum in the west of Ningbo City honors a rice business that started four generations ago by a Wang family. A businessman who runs a food company in Ningbo， Wang Liubao had the museum built in 2013 to honor his great grandfather who founded and operated the rice shop and made it a great success.  is now a provincial old-time business brand. The museum not only honors the business but also presents an exhibition of rice products once popular in Ningbo. At the museum， visitors can see how， in good old days， rice grain was processed and how different cakes and dumplings were made for folk festivities all the year round.

was founded by Wang Xingru in 1889. He was a farmer by trade. When farming was not busy， he worked as a fisherman and found a way to catch turtles. This gave him an edge on the fish market. Gradually he accumulated a capital fund and started a rice shop. Wang Xingru knew the customers who bought just a small quantity of rice were usually from poverty-stricken families and he gave these customers an extra quantity just like a bakers dozen. The rice shops policy attracted a large group of customers. The business flourished.

in the name of the business refers to a very basic weight unit in measuring rice.  in Chinese means bigness.  indicates that Wangs shop gives a bakers dozen. Wang Xingru adopted the description given by his customers. The name became a brand and a legend.

The three-story museum gives a vivid presentation on rice-related matters such as rice farming， rice products and tradition. Exhibits come in various kinds： documents， models， photos， sculpture， paintings， and objects. The exhibits on the first floor combine to show the history of the Wang familys rice business. Also on the display on the first floor are other products  sold after it expanded its business： cooking oil， sesame oil， rice wine and grape wine， kitchen seasonings such as MSG， vinegar and soybean sauce.

On the second floor are tools used in rice farming such as wooden plough， wooden waterwheel， millstone， and bellows. The pictures and objects demonstrate every step of rice farming. Also on display are a lot of rhymes about rice farming and rice products. One rhyme names all the special rice cakes and dumplings for festivities month by month from January to December.

As a member of the Wangs that run rice business， Wang Liubao holds fast to a set of values which has been carried on in the family： generosity， honesty， sincerity， care and frugality， gratitude， respect. The museum exists to highlight these values and gives an education on the importance of food.

The museum even displays a story about rice on a wall of the museum. In the story of several decades ago， Wang Liubao was still a kid. His father brought him to see a doctor at hospital. After the visit to the outpatient department， the father and the son had lunch at a roadside restaurant. After seeing a woman flicked cigarette ash into a bowl of rice she didnt finish eating， the father felt offended by the waste and said so. The woman flared up and a quarrel broke out. Now Wang Liubao understands his father better. The moral of the story is simple enough： a lot of hard work goes into rice farming before a bowl of rice can be served. It is everybodys obligation to cherish food.

The museum has a workshop that doubles as a winery and food processing workroom.