舌尖上的冰与火

舌尖上的冰与火

Tang Hulu (Sugarcoated fruits on sticks) is a popular food in winter.冰天雪地里吃冰糖葫芦最爽口了。

The northeast of China is a rich cultural stew pot in which the Manchurian cuisine is mixed with Han Chinese cuisines and Western cuisines.Yet the most authentic and popular way of having a taste of the region is, of course, to eat popsicles and stewed food in the cold of winter.That is because when chill winds blast down from Siberia, food, whether cold or hot, is one of the best ways of guarding against the cold, just like woollen sweaters.

Frozen pears are traditional winter fruits for northeastern people.冻梨是东北人传统的冬季水果。

Eat cold when it gets cold

The reputation of North-easterners for eating cold food in frigid temperatures has spread far and wide in China and beyond.In winter, the northeast of China is magically transformed into a frozen wonderland.But harsh weather conditions can never freeze local people's enthusiasm for cold, teeth-demanding food – icy desserts, popsicles, ice cream, crispy sugar-coated fruit on sticks, frozen pears, frozen persimmons, frozen apples, frozen crab apples, to name just a few.Indeed, one of the coolest things to do there in winter is to savour icy desserts after dinner from the comfort of wellheated homes.For newcomers, think twice whether you have “iron” teeth or a very strong stomach, or not, before you give it a try.

The way that they sell popsicles in winter is truly intriguing for non-locals.Boxes of popsicles and ice creams are laid outdoors in rows.The best known of all pops in the region are those of 'Modern Popsicle', a brand that has thrived for over a hundred years.“Sweet but not sickly, icy but sweet smelling” is what they say.That is why the queue never dies down at their shops all year round.It is reported that more than 10,000 popsicles are sold every day at the single shop located on Zhongyang Street (or Central Street) in Harbin.Despite the number, the shop makes each and every pop the way that it did a hundred years ago.No packaging is used to guarantee an unspoiled taste.Available in two fl avours (cream and cocoa), square-shaped Modern Popsicle pops are melt in your mouth delicious.

Sugar-coated fruit on sticks, or Tang Hulu in Chinese, won't taste as good without ice.String half a dozen of pitted hawthorn fruits onto a stick, dip them in sugar syrup and then leave the syrup to harden into a shiny coating.Listen to the crispy sound as you take a bite of the sweet and sour tasting icy Tang Hulu.

Frozen pears, persimmons and crab apples are the best-loved of all frozen fruits in Northeast China, though newcomers like frozen strawberries and yellow peaches have also managed to appeal to taste buds in recent years.Fruit peddlers start selling these frozen fruits when winter comes.Statistics show that in Harbin alone, 50,000- 60,000 tons of them are sold every winter season.The tradition of eating frozen pears came about in theNorthern Song dynasty (960-1127) among the Liao people.Before having your fi rst bite, you'd better“warm up” the frozen pear in cool water and wait until you see a thick crust of ice around the pear.Then crack the crust and enjoy the sweet melted fl esh that fl ows out.The taste will be even better if there are ice crystals in the fl esh.

Stewed goose in iron pot.铁锅炖大鹅。

Northeastern stews

As part of Mongolian and Manchurian tradition, stews or stewed dishes claim a unique place on the dining table of the North-easterners.They are a must-have for family meals or dinner parties, particularly in winter.There is a large variety of stews.Cooked in an iron wok, a typical Northeastern stew has a combination of two ingredients – meat and seasonal vegetables.Classic examples include Pork Stew with Cellophane Noodles, Chicken Stew with Mushrooms, Pork Rib Stew with Common Beans and many more.Easy to prepare and rich in nutrition, stews are a true seasonal treat in bitterly cold winter.

The Demoli Fish Stew is the best known of all stewed dishes in Northeastern Chinese cuisine.The story about its origin dates back more than 100 years.Its ingredients typically include a common carp (crusian carp, cat fi sh or yellow-head cat fi sh will also do) fresh from the Songhuajiang River, fl at noodles, hazel mushrooms and freshly-made tofu.Don't be surprised by the size of servings, usually in a large clay pot, and get prepared for an authentic Northeastern dinner that often goes with rounds of toasts.

越冷越吃凉

东北人越冷越吃凉，早已名声在外。雪后的东北摇身一变为“冻北”，而没有冻货的冬天是不完美的。冰点、冰棍、冰淇淋、冰糖葫芦、冻梨、冻柿子、冻苹果、冻海棠……这些考验“牙口”的食物，全是东北人在冬天里离不开的美味。窗外北风凛冽，室内暖气十足，全家人围坐电视机前，吃着饭后冰点，是寒冬中最温暖的事情。初来乍道的外地人，如没有钢牙、铁胃，一定要倍加小心。

东北售卖冰棍的方式实在稀奇。一到冬天，冰棍雪糕都是成箱地一溜儿摆在室外。“甜而不腻，冰中带香”的马迭尔冰棍可谓是冰棍中的“明星”。这支创牌百余年始终畅销不衰、无论冬夏都要排队购买的小冰棍，几乎成了哈尔滨的象征。据说，仅在中央大街，每天销售就达一万多根。坚守传统工艺，为保证口感而不使用外包装，只有奶油和可可两种口味的冰棍方方正正，吃到嘴里，入口即化。

糖葫芦到处都有，不过少了一个冰字就不够味道。梢条棍串起去核的山楂，裹上麦芽糖稀遇冷风迅速变硬。东北冬天的冰糖葫芦，酸酸甜甜冰凉可口，冻硬的糖稀一口咬下去嘎嘣脆。

东北冻果江湖中，向来以冻梨、冻柿子、冻花红（海棠果）三者为尊，资历最久、味道最好、地位最高。近年来也有冻草莓、冻黄桃等不少新秀崛起。一到冬天，东北的街市里，小贩们把冻果成筐拉出来卖，数据统计，仅哈尔滨，冻果一冬的销量就有五六千吨。早在北宋时期，辽人就有吃冻梨的习惯。把硬如石块的冻梨放冷水中，梨子表面结冰，敲碎冰壳，已经融化的梨吃起来甜津可口，带冰碴的果肉咬起来尤其美味带感。当然也有心急的吃货，没缓好的冻梨直接上牙啃，坚硬的冻梨一咬一道白印，啃起来拔拔凉、甜津津。

百味铁锅炖

深受世居在此的蒙古族、满族等少数民族影响的东北炖菜，至今都是东北城乡人家每日的情怀，更是数九隆冬迎来送往餐桌上的必选菜。种类繁多的铁锅炖菜多是两两搭配，一荤一素，如“猪肉炖粉条” “小鸡炖蘑菇”、“排骨炖豆角”等。根据不同季节搭配不同材料，因时因地制宜，简单易煮，营养丰富。客人围灶台而坐，选好食材即下锅，柴火噼里啪啦声和木盖缝隙飘出的热腾腾香气，令人食指大动。

作为东北的系列大锅炖中最知名的炖菜，“得莫利炖鱼”已传承了百年的历史。俗话说“千炖豆腐万炖鱼”，把现做的豆腐和松花江活鲤鱼（也可以用鲇鱼、鲫鱼、嘎牙子鱼）、宽粉条子、榛蘑等一起下锅。一大搪瓷盆的得莫利炖鱼端上桌，人们往往被 “盘似盆，盆似锅”的菜量惊呆，热气蒸腾中，筷子开始飞舞、酒杯频频举起，个个吃到酣畅淋漓。

ICE AND FIRE ON THE TIP OF THE TONGUE

Text by Wang Yuanchang Photos by Wang Yuanchang & VCG Translation by Leo

Frozen Jiaozi, Tang Hulu and frozen sticky red-bean buns areindispensable in winter.冻饺子、冰糖葫芦、冻粘豆包皆是东北人冬季离不开的美味。