Young People Drive Revival of China’s Ancient Hanfu Culture年轻人推动汉服文化复兴

庄屏卉 邓安儿

On weekdays Hu Xin， 21， wears a dark blue suit with a red tie for her job.

Only on weekends can she find peace in the circle of friends she is most comfortable with， dressed in Hanfu， the ancient attire of Chinas Han people， which dates back 4，000 years.

The garments are characterised by the cross collar， right lapel， wide sleeves and a sash that ties everything together in place of buttons.

Hu and her friends play the Chinese zither， drink tea， make traditional embroidery or recite poetry together. Everyone is polite， refined and shares the same interests.

She styles her hair like a conch1， in the Tang dynasty （618—907） way， and paints a red pattern， known as a flower ornament， between her eyebrows. She walks with a solemn look and holds her arms below her chest.

“I have been interested in Hanfu since the eighth grade. It creates that2 artistic3 fantasy world that only the ancient poems can offer，” Hu said.

Last month， Hu asked for leave from her job， took two trains and flew for three hours so that she could join tens of thousands of her fellow enthusiasts—all dressed in the ancient style—for their annual gathering4 to promote Hanfu culture in the water town of Xitang， in the eastern province of Zhejiang.

The trend began in 2003 when a 34-year-old power grid worker wore his self-made Hanfu in Zhengzhou， in the central province of Henan. Since then， Hanfu has been a growing and more visible presence in the daily life of Chinese mainland.

Addressing each other as tong pao—a term which means “people sharing the same robe” and is used in traditional poetry to refer to friends—Hanfu enthusiasts form clubs online and in schools. They brave5 stares and sometimes talk6 of “strange clothes” while on group outings or engaging in traditional cultural activities， such as calligraphy， playing ancient musical instruments or matching couplets.

By reviving the clothes of their ancestors， Hanfu lovers like Hu are trying to show their pride in Chinese culture and recreate an idyllic world， not only of magnificent clothes， but also a state of nobility.

“Hanfu is the perfect bridge for young people to connect with Chinese culture and identity，” said Fang Wenshan， a lyricist who started the Hanfu Culture Week in Xitang seven years ago.

“The threshold is low enough for everyone to get involved—they dont need to be academic7 and by dressing in Hanfu they are showing their feelings.”

“When you see so many magnificent clothes in the past you will want to learn more about the history and culture of the country where you grow up，” said An Congying， a programmer at a bank in Shanghai， who was lured into the Hanfu world because of her interest in ancient Chinese literature.

She wears Hanfu almost every day—sometimes just one part of her clothing to “lay low”8 at work—because “Hanfu brings out the best of a person”.

“I feel a different person when I am wearing Hanfu，” An said. “I unconsciously stand very straight with good manners. I need to behave well enough for the outfit.”

For Zhu Ao， 20， a third-year student at the Hunan Technical College of Railway High-Speed， Hanfu represents the traits of a decent person.

“The open robe with cross-collars signifies being open-minded and accepting of others. The edge of the robe is level， meaning we must be very just and fair. The line at the back of the robe is always vertical to the ground， signifying we must have integrity.

“Its so much more than just clothes. We say you need a good body to pull off Western-style clothes， but good virtue to wear Hanfu，” said Zhu， who wears the styles every day—choosing thinner sleeves for convenience， or the wider sleeves in which he can carry his wallet and mobile phone.

Some people are attracted by the splendour of the custom-made dresses and robes—which can take up to a year to be delivered.

Others are diving deeper， learning the six arts prescribed by Confucius as the requirements for becoming a junzi， or noble and perfect man. These skills—rites， music， archery， chariot racing， calligraphy and mathematics—became popular in the Zhou dynasty as signifiers of a state of perfection.

“Hanfu is the symbol of authentic Chinese culture. We wear Hanfu to promote the Chinese way of life just as Confucian scholars aspired to， mastering arts such as rites and music and achieving a high moral standard，” said Huang Zaiyu， 28， a musician from Hengyang， Hunan province.

A professional Chinese zither player， Huang uses his expertise to translate ancient music scores9 and joins fellow tong pao to perform at ritual ceremonies， such as marking the beginning of school by worshipping Confucius.

“In ancient times scholars learned rites to refine ones mind. In modern times we still practise these ceremonies to learn the Confucius philosophy and guide our lives，” he said.

In Beijing， Chen Xuefei， a former art director at a video game company who now specialises in producing Hanfu clothing and accessories， has spent years perfecting the Han archery rite.

“Modern archery is competition. I think its our obligation to revive the traditional rite，” said Chen， who visited museums and studied ancient books to recreate the original ceremony.

Winning is less important than sticking to the rules and showing respect， and so there is much bowing—to show respect for the host， guests and fellow shooters—as well as shooting to the rhythm of music and drinking wine.

“We live in a time of material abundance and have spiritual pursuits，” Chen said， explaining Hanfus importance to him and other young people. “Dressing in these clothes and performing such rites bring us closer to our ancestors.

“We are not old-fashioned people trying to go back to the past. We are not strange people. We live in modern times and we go to work like others，” he said.

The Hanfu revival has not been free of controversy. Among other criticisms， it has supposedly promoted Han dominance in a country with dozens of ethnic minorities. But Hanfu fans distance themselves from that stereotype.

“At the early stage there were some radicals，” Chen said， “but not any more. People are just proud of the culture Han， as one of the ethnic groups in China， has passed on over the years.”

San Bai， 24， a data analyst with a property developing company in Suzhou， in the eastern province of Jiangsu， rejects the criticism entirely.

“I dont know anyone in my circle who believes Han is superior to other ethnicities，” he said.

“Its the 21st century and nobody believes that… I have friends of Yi ethnicity who will dress in Hanfu occasionally and I dressed in Miao ethnicity clothes when I was travelling because they were attractive.

“Why cant I as a Han dress in Han clothes to celebrate my holidays without being judged？”

21歲的胡欣在工作日期间穿的是深蓝色制服配红色领带。

只有在周末她才能松一口气，穿上汉服跟最投契的朋友待在一起。汉服是中国汉族人民的古代服饰，其历史可追溯到4000年前。

汉服的特征包括交领、右衽、广袖和腰带。腰带可替代纽扣将全部衣物收束一处。

胡欣和朋友们在一起时，或弹奏古筝，或饮茶品茗，或引针刺绣，或吟诵诗词。大家都是知书达理的人，也志趣相投。

胡欣梳了个唐朝（618—907）风格的螺髻，在眉心处描了个叫做花钿的红色图案。走路时她敛容正色，双手交叠端放前胸之下。

胡欣说：“我从初二开始就对汉服感兴趣了。那种由它营造的美妙幻境，只有古诗才能给予。”

上个月，胡欣请了假，辗转两趟火车，飞行三个小时来到位于华东的浙江省。此行是为了前往西塘水乡参加一年一度的汉服文化周。每年，成千上万的汉服迷都会齐聚于此，身着古代服饰，推广汉服文化。

汉服潮始于2003年，当时在中原省份河南的郑州，一名34岁的电网工人穿上了自制的汉服。从那时起，在中国内地的日常生活中，汉服变得越来越常见。

在网络上和学校里，汉服迷组建社团，互称“同袍”。“同袍”义为“共用一件长袍的人”，在传统诗词中指朋友。他们会一同出游，或是进行传统文化活动，比如写书法、弹奏古代乐器或对对联。他们无惧旁人的异样目光，勇敢直面“奇装异服”的议论。

通过复兴祖先曾穿的服饰，像胡欣一样的汉服迷在尽力表达对中华文化的自豪之情，也试着再现一个田园般的世界，在那里，不仅有锦衣华服，更有品行高洁的人。

“汉服是年轻人与中国文化以及中国身份联系的完美桥梁。”作词人方文山说道。七年前，他发起了西塘汉服文化周活动。

“汉服的门槛很低，低到人人皆可参与。他们不必专门研究汉服，穿上它是在表达自己的所想所感。”

安聪颖是上海一家银行的程序员，她说：“你在这个国家长大，当看到这个国家在旧时有这么多华美精致的衣服时，你会想去了解更多她的历史和文化。”她之所以会被汉服吸引，是因为她对中国古典文学感兴趣。

她几乎每天都穿汉服，因为“汉服让人展现自己最好的一面”。上班期间为了保持低调，有时她只穿其中一部分来搭配其他。

“穿上汉服时，我觉得自己变了个人。”她说，“我会不自觉站得笔直，举止得体。我要表现得足够好，才能配得上这套衣服。”

20岁的朱敖，是湖南高速铁路职业技术学院的一名大三学生，在他看来，汉服代表了一个正派人所具有的特质。

“汉服敞袍交领，代表思想开阔，接纳他人。下摆平直，意为平允公道。背线垂直，象征诚实正直。

“汉服远不只是衣服。我们说，你要身材好才能撑起西式服装，但你得品行佳才能穿好汉服。”朱敖说道。他每天都穿汉服，图方便的时候就穿窄袖，想把钱包手机收进衣服里的时候，就着广袖。

定制型汉服裙和长袍华美夺目，一些人为之倾倒，其交付时间可达一年。

另一些人更进一步——学习六艺。在孔子看来，要成为“君子”，也就是高尚完美的人，必须通贯六艺。六艺指礼、乐、射、御、书、数。六艺兴于周朝，被视作德行完备的标志。

“汉服象征着正宗的中华文化。我们穿上汉服，推广儒家学者过去追求的那种中式生活之道，掌握礼、乐等艺术，到达崇高的道德境界。”来自湖南衡阳的黄在宇说。28岁的他是一名音乐演奏者。

作為一名专业的古筝乐手，黄在宇运用自己的专业知识翻译古代曲谱，和其他同袍在开学祭孔等典礼仪式上演奏。

他说：“古时文人习礼是为了修身养性。在现代，我们仍会举行这些典礼仪式，去学习孔子的哲学，指导我们的生活。”

陈雪飞曾在一家电子游戏公司担任艺术总监，现在，他在北京专门从事汉服及其配饰的生产制作。他已经花了几年时间来完善汉族射礼。

陈雪飞说：“现代射箭就是比赛。我认为，我们有责任复兴传统射礼。”他遍访博物馆，研究古籍，以再现原汁原味的射箭古仪。

遵守规则和展现敬意比取胜更为重要，因此射礼要求多次鞠躬，以表示对主人、宾客及箭友的尊重。此外，还要按照伴乐节奏引弓放矢，射箭完毕还要举杯饮酒。

“我们生活在一个物质丰盛的时代，有自己的精神追求。”说到汉服之于他自己，之于其他年轻人的意义，陈雪飞解释道，“穿上这些衣服，举行这些仪式，我们离祖先更近了。

“我们不是一心想回到过去的老古董。我们不古怪，我们生活在现代社会，跟其他人一样上班干活儿。”

汉服的复兴并非毫无争议。在众多批评声中，有一种观点认为，在这样一个多民族国家，汉服复兴巩固了汉族的主导地位。然而，汉服迷却不认同这种刻板看法。

“早期是有些激进的人，”陈雪飞说，“但现在不会再有了。汉族是中国的一个民族，其文化久经岁月传承下来，人们纯粹是为汉文化骄傲自豪。”

24岁的三白，是位于华东的江苏苏州一家房地产开发公司的数据分析师。他完全拒绝接受这一批评。

他说：“据我所知，汉服圈里没人认为汉族高其他民族一等。

“都21世纪了，没人相信这种说法……我有些彝族朋友，他们偶尔也会穿穿汉服。我在旅游的时候会穿苗族服饰，因为那很好看。

“我作为一个汉族人，穿汉服庆祝自己民族的节日，凭什么就要被人指指点点呢？”

（译者为“《英语世界》杯”翻译大赛获奖者）