一座旧粮仓的新故事

浦子

这个故事发生在国家级生态县宁海县。

其实在原国家旅游局公布的首批创建“国家全域旅游示范区”名单中，就有宁海。全域旅游是指在一定区域内，以旅游业带动和促进经济社会协调发展的一种新的区域协调发展理念和模式。

宁海县按照全域旅游的要素，进行全方位的创建工作。其中的民宿发展更是赢得骄人成绩，被赞为“宁波民宿看宁海”。宁海民宿建设工作围绕改革、布局、品牌、运作等“十看”导向，着力树立民宿经济标杆，成功获评5家市级特色客栈。至2017年，已成立4个民宿行业协会。全年新增南溪拾贰忆、南山楠、花源里、乡叙王干山等民宿101家，其中精品民宿22家，带动农副产品销售超过6亿元。宁海县因此获评浙江省全域旅游示范县创建先进单位、全国十佳生态旅游城市。

那天，有些阳光照着。我驱车走进一家民宿。这里以前叫大麦塘粮站，现在墙上镌着“九熹·大乐之野粮仓度假酒店”，当地人习惯称它为“粮仓客栈”。

乡里专门派了乡旅游办的副主任陈佩瑶陪同。我事先知道，这是县旅委规划牵头，由胡陈乡引进的旅游项目，县旅投直接投资建设，并引进了酒店业的管理团队具体承包经营。

在这个地方还被称为粮站的时候，建在这里的粮站，背山临溪，门前有一条公路通过，就如同建在粮田的正中。

大麦塘，令人想起四周皆麦。在附近的丘陵，山上植麦，田里种稻。麦香稻熟时，就是这里最热闹的时刻。

我到的时间，应该是晚稻收割后。

在我的幻觉里，这时田里的晚稻已经收割，在生产队的晒场上晒干了。晒稻谷早年用的是竹簟，后来用的水泥地。我童年时经常帮大人摊竹簟和卷竹簟。将卷紧的竹簟摊开时，觉得铺开了一个莫名的世界。将铺开的竹簟卷起时，觉得将很多东西包含在其中。晒谷的大多是女性，她们将晒干的谷子放到木制的风车斗上，经风车将谷子中的瘪壳去除了，一箩箩饱满的谷子被男人挑到粮站来。

先交公粮，社员的口粮后分。那一种爱国的热情啊，让现今的人直是诧异，但那是事實，是我亲眼所见。

前几年，县里为了拍摄《十里红妆》的宣传片，曾经让许多人穿着红衣抬着红色的嫁妆走过附近的一座有名的石桥（戌己桥）。那是拍电视，一般家庭哪有如此排场。而真实的场景，应该是生产队的社员挑着饱满的充满阳光香气的谷子，排成一长排，挑到对岸的大麦塘粮站交公粮。

我拭了一下眼睛，朝大门里走去。里边的粮仓一排排，墙壁刷得白白的。一扇仓门开着，从仓门往里看了一眼，里面早被改造成酒店的客房。原来的一个仓库，有了很多客房。只是那个客房门口，挂了玉米穗作为装饰，金黄色的，十分的吉祥喜气。

这是一个曾经储存劳作者汗水和丰收喜悦的地方，怎能不让人倍增亲切感呢？相信很多人会冲着这个原因而喜欢。他们的子孙，会冲着长辈的喜欢而喜欢。

最让人称道的是，一般酒店客房均以数字作为编号，而眼前，则冠以“谷子”“大麦”“小麦”“高粱”“玉米”等粮食的名称。

今年初联系这里的经理龚隽时，得知酒店已经试营业，马上要正式开张了。酒店的建筑设计师叫汪莹，据说她遵循“尊崇自然”的原则，改造时对老建筑的风韵最大程度地予以保留。保留，体现原建筑的风韵;改造，则是添加了现代的建筑元素，以适应现代人对于酒店或居所的要求。

这是两难，就看分寸拿捏的水准。而她做到了，至少我是认可的。

我继续朝前走去。里边也有阳光。原以为库房是口字形排列，在进了一半以后，有一排房子在中间隔了一下，就如日字，只是中间一横没有到头。

有一个那个年代留下的水塔，圆桶型，上粗下细，被刷成白白的。这个水塔自然是公家才配有的，当年连公社机关也没有。用水泵将水从井里抽到塔里，再由塔中通过水管供应各处的用水。想起童年去粮站，最想的是到“自来水”水龙头去放水。同样的井水，从这里流出的就带有贵气。许多孩子与我一样，立誓长大后，一定要到有水龙头的单位去上班。

随便进入一个客房。看顶上，还是原来的三角结构屋顶，那些木栓，一根根顶着上面的砖，砖上的瓦虽是原貌，但作了细细的加固。比如原来是漏风的，不隔热。现在，既不漏风，又隔热。看地面，没有一般酒店常有的木地板。粮仓里原有的地面得到了保留。为了粮食的除湿，原来的地面就作了这方面的处理。我真是佩服设计师汪莹。我支持她的建筑设计原则，她的建筑设计原则不是目前各地上演的大拆大建。

客房里的布置十分简单。床、桌、椅加卫厕。家具、电器的风格也是如此。而简单是美学的至高点。

走到底排再往回走的时候，发现了露天的泳池，还有绿草茵茵的大草坪。泳池是供游客嬉水的。大草坪是供游客做烧烤或户外活动的。酒店还可提供附近的乡村游和果蔬采摘。这泳池和草坪是原先的粮站所没有的。我这才想到是经过了改造的。

一间客房里有人声传出来。我们顺便拐进门，原来是酒店在开展员工培训，教导如何叠被子铺床单之类的知识。一问，这些员工都是附近村庄的，较年轻。我想，她们的父亲或者爷爷以前年轻时应该经常来这里，他们是挑着饱满的谷子，过了磅秤，直接挑进库里。这里，曾经装满了山似的谷子，弥漫着浓郁的谷子香。

我有一个惊人的发现，原来粮仓的墙壁洞开了，装了落地玻璃。这里该是客房的阳台位置，一张躺椅优雅地横放在那里。还有，一只巨大的瓷质浴缸，就放置在距躺椅不远的地方，当中没有阻隔。眼下，落地玻璃窗是没有窗帘的。西斜的阳光毫无阻挡地长驱直入，窗外是田野山地树木，连枝杈上的鸟窝也看得清。一只鸟追赶着另一只鸟，最后那只鸟终于伏在另一只鸟的鸟背上。

驾车驶出粮仓客栈，远远地，我回了一次头。

看上去就是粮仓啊。走到里边，整个框架仍然是粮仓，连风韵都没有变。可是，细节有变，局部有了较大变化。这不变，是为了吸引众多曾经经历过这段历史的人来这里;变化，是为了吸引更多追求朴野新奇的人。这与我们这个社会惊人的相似：坚持基本制度不动摇，而改革和创新让社会取得突飞猛进的变化。

這设计师原来懂得社会科学哦，反正不仅仅是美学那样简单。

这粮仓客栈，有了这些因素，非红火兴隆不可。

The other day I visited the Granary Holiday Inn in a village in Ninghai， a county under the jurisdiction of Ningbo in eastern Zhejiang. I chose to visit the hotel for several reasons. A rural county featuring a fine ecological system， Ninghai is putting resources into the development of rural tourism. It is on the countrys first list of demonstration regions for whole-region tourism， issued in February 2016. Whole-region tourism is defined as a regional development model where all the social and economic resources are geared in coordination to offer tourism attractions and tourism is considered the primary driving force for local development.

To boost rural tourism， the county has launched a building project to have village hotels developed so as to cater to tourists from cities. In 2017， 101 village hotels were added to the local hospitality industry. The year saw the total revenue of the village hotels reach 160 million yuan. Moreover， the rural hotel industry in Ninghai helped local villages sell farming products in 600 million yuan last year.

The old structure used to be known as Damaitang Granary. Though the refurbished affair has a fancy new name， local people refer to it as Granary Hotel.

The granary was built in the years when local farmers paid the agricultural tax in the form of grain. Such state-run granaries could be seen all over the country. The agricultural tax， which had been levied in China for over 2，000 years， was scrapped officially in 2005， an epoch-making farewell to the past. Then， many granaries across the country became empty and idle. The granary in Damaitang was just such a structure that fell into disuse and disrepair.

Thanks to the new development blueprint formulated by the county government， the granary has made this comeback. The renovation project was funded by the tourism authority of the county. Early this year， I made a phone call to Gong Jun， manager of the granary hotel. The hotel was then in a trial operation and was about to launch itself into business. From Gong， I learned that the design was masterminded by architect Wang Ying. She followed a principle called “respect to nature” in this project.

My visit to the granary hotel indicates that the nature of the old granary is indeed well respected. A big chunk of the past is well preserved. Some modern amenities are now in place so that the new hotel can function smoothly.

The granary compound is spacious. The hotel has 21 rooms ranging from standard rooms to suites. I stepped into a room and took a look. The ground floor， originally paved to prevent moisture from the underground， is well reserved and no wood flooring was introduced. But the ceiling structure is well insulated so that no winds may come in and no heat may go out through the ceiling. The furniture and inner decoration and electrical appliances are all in a minimalist style， which appeal delightfully to me. This room has a big window through which I saw a deck chair and a bath tub. The window didnt have a curtain yet. The slanting sunshine came through into the room. I looked out the window and saw distant hillside， woods and farmland.

To my surprise， the hotel has a swimming pool and a large lawn where people can make barbecue or have a picnic. The two amenities are new additions， which the old granary didnt have. A water tower， a legacy of yesteryears， still stands. Its whitewashed drum shape gleamed in the sunlight. In the bygone past， the water tower in the state-run facilities signified something privileged and unique in this part of the rural Haining. Water was pumped into the tall tower and then distributed to all the faucets in the compound. Even the local town government couldnt afford this luxury.

As I strolled around， I heard someone speaking in a room. I peeped in and it was a training program. New employees were learning how to make the bed. It turned out that the young trainees were local residents from neighboring villages.

I took a distant look from afar on my way away from the hotel compound. The whole structure looked like a granary. It didnt change a bit but it was brand new. It occurred to me that the granary hotel was like a metaphor signifying what the whole society was： the structural foundation remains unchanged， but there are striking changes if you take a closer look.