染发剂的历史变迁70英语史上的词典时代

阿诺

Archaeologists have found evidence that as far back as the Neanderthals1）， humans had been using various things to change the color of both hair and skin. Ancient Gauls2） and Saxons dyed their hair various vibrant colors to show rank and to instill3） fear into enemies on the battlefield. Babylonian men sprinkled gold dust into their hair. By the time of the ancient Egyptians， Greeks and Romans， plant and animal matter were being used on a regular basis to color hair. The very first mixtures could only darken the hair， but methods were found to bleach4） hair blond， often by exposing the painted hair to sunlight for hours. Throughout history， various means have been used to produce a full spectrum5） of hair dye colors.

考古学家发现的证据表明，早在尼安德特人时期，人类就已经在使用各种东西来改变头发和皮肤的颜色了。古代高卢人和撒克逊人将头发染成各种鲜艳的颜色，用来彰显自己的地位和在战场上威慑敌人。巴比伦男子则在头发上撒金粉。到了古埃及人、古希腊人和古罗马人时期，动植物材料经常被人们用来染发。最早的混合剂只能让发色加深，不过人们后来又发现了将头发淡化为金色的方法，这常常需要让上了色的头发在阳光下曝晒几个小时。纵观历史，人类已经使用过形形色色的方法将头发染成所有可能的颜色。

Hair Dye Through the Middle Ages， the Renaissance and the Victorian Era

中世纪、文艺复兴时期及维多利亚时期的染发剂

In the Dark Ages6）， red hair first appeared as the result of a genetic mistake. For many years， people with natural red hair were subjected to suspicions of witchcraft. However， in the 16th century， Queen Elizabeth I's natural vibrant red hair made red hair more acceptable， and soon hair was being reddened with items such as henna7）， which dated back to the ancient Egyptians. During the Baroque period8）， when elaborate powdered wigs9） were popular， the colors ran the gamut of10） pastels11）， from pink and yellow， to even blue. Blond hair continued to be desirable， with caustic soda12） being used to bleach the hair. Victorian women used large hats with an open top to expose their treated hair to the strong sun. At the same time， gray hair was popular， bringing back hair powder to heighten the effect. For a time， silver nitrate13） was used to darken hair until overuse resulted in a purple color. It was this purple result that would eventually lead to the creation of the first synthetic hair dye.

欧洲中世纪时第一次出现了由于基因突变而形成的红发。在很多年里，天生红发的人都饱受猜疑，被认为身怀巫术。不过到了16世纪，女王伊丽莎白一世那一头天生的亮丽红发使人们对红发的态度有所改观，很快人们开始用古埃及人就曾使用过的散沫花染剂等东西把头发染成红色。在巴洛克时期，造型精致、撒有发粉的假发很流行，假发的发色从粉色和黄色甚至到蓝色，各种浅色无所不包。金发继续受到欢迎，人们用苛性钠将头发淡化为金色。维多利亚时期的女子会戴着帽顶中空的大帽子，让处理过的头发接受强光的曝晒。与此同时，灰白色的头发也很流行，人们重新开始使用发粉来增强这种效果。硝酸银一度曾被用来加深发色，直到它的过量使用导致了头发变紫。也正是这个变紫的后果最终促成了第一种合成染发剂的诞生。

1. Neanderthal [ni??nd?tɑ?l] n. （公元前12，000年居住于欧洲的）尼安德特人

2. Gaul [ɡ??l] n. 高卢人，铁器时代居住在现今西欧的法国、比利时、意大利北部、荷兰南部、瑞士西部和德国南部莱茵河西岸一带的凯尔特人。

3. instill [?n?st?l] vt. 逐渐灌输

4. bleach [bli?t?] v. （使）变成淡色；（使）脱色。n. 漂白剂

5. spectrum [?spektr?m] n. 范围

6. Dark Ages： 指欧洲中世纪（大约从476年至14世纪欧洲文艺复兴开始前的整个中世纪时期）。

Synthetic Hair Dye 合成染发剂

In the 1800s， chemists discovered para-phenylenediamine （PPD） and its use in the creation of synthetic dye. At the same time， it was found that hydrogen peroxide was a gentler and safer chemical for hair bleaching. These two discoveries paved the way for Eugène Schueller， who created the first commercial chemical hair dye， which he christened14） "Aureole". That product would go on to be known as "L'Oréal". The double-process for dying hair blond soon followed， and in 1932 hair dye was further refined by Lawrence Gelb who created hair dye that actually penetrated the shaft15） of the hair. His company would be called "Clairol". Later， in 1950， he would introduce the first one-step hair dye product that actually lightened hair without bleach. This ushered in the modern era of hair dye， including the ability for hair to be dyed at home.

19世纪，化学家发现了对苯二胺（PPD）及其在制作合成染料方面的应用。同一时期，人们还发现过氧化氢是使头发颜色变淡的更为温和、安全的一种化学制剂。这两项发现为欧仁·舒莱尔铺平了道路，他制造出了第一款商用化学染发剂，并将其命名为“光环”。这一产品就是日后人们所熟知的“欧莱雅”。将头发染成金色的两步染发法很快也随之出现。1932年，劳伦斯·盖尔博对染发剂做了进一步改进，他制造的染发剂实际上可以渗透进头发的发干组织。他创建的公司后来被叫做“伊卡璐”。后来到了1950年，他又推出了第一款只需一步操作而无需漂白就可以使发色变浅的染发产品。这迎来了染发剂的现代时期，在这一时期人们在家里也能自己染发了。

7. henna [?hen?] n. 散沫花染剂（一种从散沫花叶提炼出来的棕红色化妆染剂）

8. Baroque period： 巴洛克时期，西方艺术史上的一个时代，大致为17世纪，盛行巴洛克风格的艺术。

9. wig [w?ɡ] n. 假发

10. run the gamut of： 涉及……的全部范围

11. pastel [?p?stl] n. 淡色彩

12. caustic soda： 【化】苛性钠；烧碱

13. silver nitrate： 【化】硝酸银

14. christen [?kr?sn] vt. 给……取名

15. shaft [?ɑ?ft] n. （人发的）发干

16. condition [k?n?d??n] vt. （涂保护剂）使（头发或皮肤）保持健康

17. exotic [?ɡ?z?t?k] adj. 奇异的，异乎寻常的

18. semi-： [前缀] （用于形容词和名词前构成其他形容词和名词）表示“部分”

19. demi-： [前缀] （用于形容词和名词前构成其他形容词和名词）表示“半”

20. ammonia [??m??ni?] n. 【化】氨

21. cortex [?k??teks] n. 【动物学】皮质；皮层

22. melanin [?mel?n?n] n. 黑色素

23. cuticle [?kju?t?kl] n. 角质层

24. silicon [?s?l?k?n] n. 硅

Types of Hair Dye Available Today 如今市面上的染发剂类型

An infinite array of color is available today， from a vast selection of natural shades， to colors that don't occur in nature at all. Dyeing one's hair causes damage to the hair， but thanks to numerous conditioning16） products， most of this damage can be minimized.

There are four major variations in hair dye today：

Temporary Color. More like a paint or hair mask， these colors are applied on top of the hair and do not penetrate the hair shaft. Mostly available in bright and exotic17） colors， temporary hair colors will wash out of the hair.

Semi18）-permanent/Demi19）-permanent Color. This dye also coats the hair but unlike temporary color， it chemically bonds with the hair. It cannot be used to lighten hair， but adds vibrancy to the color. Semi-permanent color will eventually wash out. Demi-permanent color slightly penetrates the hair shaft， so it lasts longer.

Permanent Hair Color. Because it contains both ammonia20） and peroxide， permanent color allows dye to penetrate the cortex21） and break up the natural melanin22）. It fundamentally changes the hair， and cannot be washed out， although it can be subject to fading due to improper application， damage to the cuticle23） （also called over processing） and even exposure to sunlight.

如今，人们能买到无数种颜色的染发剂，从众多天然的颜色到自然界根本不存在的颜色，应有尽有。染发会损伤头发，但是幸亏有众多的护发产品，这类损伤大多能被降低到最低程度。

如今的染发剂主要可分为以下四种类型。

临时性染发剂。这类染发剂更像是颜料或者发膜，它们被涂抹在头发表面，不会渗入发干。临时性染发剂大多用来染制鲜艳和奇特的发色，染出的发色可以被洗掉。

部分永久性/半永久性染发剂。这类染发剂也是覆盖在头发的表面，但是与临时性染发剂不同的是，它会通过化学方式与头发结合。它不能让发色变浅，但是能让发色变得更加鲜亮。部分永久性染发剂染出的发色最终会被洗掉，而半永久性染发剂由于轻微渗透进发干，因此染发效果较为持久。

永久性染发剂。由于含有氨和过氧化物，永久性染发剂中的染料可以渗入发芯，分解天然的黑色素。它使头发发生了彻底的改变，而且无法被洗掉，不过，使用不当、角质层损伤（也被称作过度染发）甚至在阳光下曝晒都会使它褪色。

The Future of Hair Color 发色的未来

The addition of silicon24） and other similar ingredients to conditioners have greatly reduced the amount of damage caused by repeated dyeing of the hair. Constant research continues to produce products that work at the hair's molecular level. Eventually， lasers may be used to color hair， as experiments have shown them to be very effective at removing hair color. However， controlling a laser to the degree needed to make subtle changes in a safe way to human hair on a living person may still be science fiction.

在护发素中添加硅和其他类似的成分，大大降低了反复染发对头发造成的伤害。从分子水平上改变头发颜色的产品也在不断研发之中。也许终将有一天，激光也会被应用于染发领域，因为实验已表明，激光可以非常有效地去除头发的颜色。不过，要想操控激光达到可安全地在活人的头发上做出细微改变的程度，或许仍然只是一种科学幻想。