【导读】这是一些关于悉尼的零散而有趣的事实,可从中了解这座城市令人着迷的历史和不为人知的一面。
Sydney is renowned for her coastal beauty, but there’s far more to this scenic city than that which makes it famous. The beautiful harbour, world-famous icons and sunny disposition are only a tiny part of the sum of Sydney’s appeal.
悉尼因其美丽的海岸线而出名,不过这座风景名城所拥有的远不止美景。迷人的港口、世界驰名的地标和阳光气质,不过是其全部魅力的一小部分。
Uncover the fascinating, quirky and unexpected side of Sydney’s character, and learn more about her history with this guide to my favourite facts about Sydney I found during my research and my visit.
我在研访期间发现了关于悉尼的一些很有意思的事实,就请跟我一起来揭开悉尼特色中那迷人、离奇和不为人知的一面,对它的历史多一点了解吧。
Ancient and indigenous origins of Sydney
悉尼的古老源起和土著历史
Australia is regarded as a relatively young country on the world stage, having reached nationhood status in 1901. As far as European settlement goes, Sydney’s dates back the longest of any Australian city (closely followed by Hobart), as the First Fleet1 unceremoniously settled it in 1788.
澳大利亚在世界舞台上被认为是一个相对年轻的国家,1901年才建国。如果考虑欧洲人的定居史——1788年英国的第一舰队作为不速之客来到这里——那么悉尼是澳大利亚历史最悠久的城市(霍巴特紧随其后)。
However, it is essential to acknowledge the ancient origins and rights of the land. Australia is said to be the world’s oldest landmass, fittingly inhabited by the oldest surviving culture in the world, the Indigenous Aboriginal people. Radiocarbon dating suggests that Indigenous Australians have inhabited the Sydney region for at least 30,000 years.
不过,必须得认可这片土地的古老源头和土著居民的土地权。据说澳大利亚是世界最古老的陆块,这里也正好居住着世界现存最古老文化的传承者——土著居民。放射性碳年代测定法表明,土著澳大利亚人在悉尼这片地域已至少居住了三万年。
What’s in a name—why is Sydney called Sydney?
悉尼之名的来历
It’s hard to imagine now, but the city was originally going to be called Albion2 until Sydney, after British Lord Sydney, was a more appropriate option.
如今很难想象,最初这座城市准备起名阿尔比恩,直到出现更恰当的选择——悉尼,这是随英国悉尼勋爵的名字而命名的。
However, the moniker ‘Albion’ was not forgotten. Sydney’s Albion Street, spanning from Elizabeth Street to Flinders, showcases an impressive number of historic buildings along its humble one-kilometre length. Wikipedia has a great list to plan architectural exploration in Sydney.
然而,“阿尔比恩”这个别称并没被忘却。悉尼有一条阿尔比恩街,从伊丽莎白街一直延伸到弗林德斯街,在仅仅一公里长的街道上却有着不少历史建筑,令人印象深刻。若想在悉尼探访各种建筑,维基百科提供了一份长长的清单。
Sydney Harbour Bridge’s nickname
悉尼港湾大桥的昵称
‘The Coat Hanger’ is the affectionate nickname for the landmark famous Sydney Harbour Bridge. Standing 134 metres above the world’s deepest natural harbour, it is the largest—but not longest—steel arch bridge you can climb. Surprisingly, the top of the arch changes its height by about 180 millimetres due to temperature changes!
“衣架”是人们对著名的地标建筑悉尼港湾大桥的爱称。它耸立于世界最深的天然港,高134米,是世界最大——而非最长——的可攀爬钢拱桥。让人惊讶的是,随温度变化,桥拱高度之差可达180毫米!
It officially opened in March 1932 amid much fanfare. Sadly, up to 800 families were forced to relocate to make way for the Bridge without any compensation, and sixteen workers died during its construction.
1932年3月大桥正式通车时,大张旗鼓,煞是热闹。遗憾的是,为了给修桥腾地,多至800户人家被迫迁往别地而没有得到任何补偿。建桥期间,有16名工人丧生。
Sydney Opera House’s design
悉尼歌剧院的设计
In 1973, the eponymous Harbour Bridge finally met its match with the opening of the Sydney Opera House, its design famously reminiscent of ship sails on the harbour.
1973年,悉尼歌剧院建成使用,以悉尼命名的港湾大桥终于有了与之媲美的建筑,其设计因让人想起海港的船帆而闻名。
While the budget blowout is well-known—it exceeded its projected budget by over fourteen times and was completed ten years behind schedule—what perhaps many people don’t realise is its sheer scale. At 185 metres long, 120 metres wide, it has roof sections weighing up to 15 tons and over a million tiles on its dazzling roof.
建设大大超出预算已是尽人皆知——超出预算14倍多,超期10年方得竣工——但很多人或许没有意识到的是建筑的规模之大。它长185米,宽120米,屋顶重达15吨,闪闪发亮的屋顶上覆盖的瓦片超过100万块。
Size matters
规模决定地位
Sydney is Australia’s largest city, with 4.6 million people. It is also the largest economy in Australia, accounting for over a quarter of Australia’s total economic activity. Indeed, the suburb-cum-satellite city of Parramatta is the country’s sixth-largest Central Business District (CBD), more prominent than some state capitals.
悉尼是澳大利亚最大的城市,人口460万。它也是澳大利亚最大的经济单元,占澳大利亚整个经济活动的四分之一以上。城郊卫星城帕拉马塔是该国第六大中央商务区,比有些州府更显要。
Sydney is a multicultural hub
悉尼是一个多文化的枢纽城市
Sydney is also one of the most multicultural cities in the world, with nearly a third of its population born overseas compared to around one-fifth of Australia overall. Over half of Sydney’s population are first- or second-generation immigrants, from all corners of the globe.
悉尼也是全世界文化最为多元的城市之一,其人口近三分之一出生在海外,相比之下,整个澳大利亚有五分之一的人口在海外出生。悉尼一半以上的人口是来自世界各地的第一代或第二代移民。
The city’s western suburbs are particularly diverse. In Parramatta, for example, half the population speak a language other than English at home.
这座城市的西部郊区尤其多元。比如,在帕拉马塔,一半人口在家里不说英语,而是说别的语言。
Western Sydney deserves attention
悉尼西部值得关注
Sydney’s west is mostly ignored while the city centre and beautiful beaches to the north, east and south garner the most attention from tourists. The oft-neglected western suburbs are booming.
悉尼的西部往往为人忽略,而市中心及北部、东部和南部的美丽沙滩最受游人关注。常被冷落的西部郊区却经济蓬勃发展。
So vast is Sydney’s western component that the city’s geographic centre is, technically, the suburb of Granville—which is 22 kilometres west of the central business district.
悉尼的西部很辽阔,以至严格地说,这座城市的地理中心是格兰维尔郊区——在中央商务区以西22公里处。
The region is also vast demographically speaking: one in every eleven Australians resides in Sydney’s west.
就人口统计数字而言,西部也很庞大:每11个澳大利亚人中就有1个居住于悉尼西部。
Convict history of Sydney
悉尼的囚犯史
Perhaps unsurprisingly for a city initially settled by convicts, Sydney’s inner city has witnessed many a crime and mystery. Its golden period of crime was the 1920s and 1930s when two women ruled the proverbial roost of organised crime: the infamous Tilly Devine, with an extensive network of brothels throughout Kings Cross and Darlinghurst, and her formidable rival, Kate Leigh, known as the queen of Sydney’s underworld.
悉尼原本是囚犯的发配之地,因此,其内城发生过很多犯罪行为和不可思议的事件也许并不令人惊讶。悉尼内城犯罪的猖獗期是在20世纪20年代和30年代,那时有两个女人统管着众所周知的有组织犯罪的窝点:一个是臭名昭著的蒂莉·迪瓦恩,在整个国王十字区和达令赫斯特地区拥有广泛的卖淫网络;另一个是她的强大对手凯特·利,人称悉尼黑社会女王。
However, these days Surry Hills has changed. The former site of Kate’s initial base in Surry Hills, then a slum called Frog Hollow, is today a pretty inner-city park. At the same time, the Surry Hills’ surroundings are a thriving business district and a trendy urban precinct of boutiques, galleries, weekend markets, quirky bars like the Absinthe Salon.
然而,萨里山如今已变了模样。凯特最初在萨里山的基地旧址——当时名为青蛙谷的贫民窟——现在是漂亮的内城公园。同时,萨里山周围也成了一片繁荣的商业区,也是一处时髦的城区,有时装店、画廊、周末市场,也有像苦艾酒沙龙这样古里古怪的酒吧。
Morbid Sydney and the funeral railway
恐怖的悉尼和葬礼铁路
Like London, ninlXMU8YQt1e3GXl9KzcUKYLbQLQD75ZKVV/mzcMNLxQw=eteenth-century Sydney had a ghostly railway service in operation whereby funeral trains would transport coffins and their associated mourners from the fittingly named Mortuary Station, near what is today Central Station, to Rookwood Cemetery.
19世纪的悉尼如同伦敦那样,提供一项阴森可怖的铁路服务,即葬礼火车会将棺材和送葬者一起从名副其实的太平间车站(今天的中央车站附近)送往卢克伍德公墓。
This operation was in place from 1867 onwards, when the city’s cemeteries became increasingly full, requiring transportation to burial plots further afield.
这项服务始自1867年,当时这个城市的墓地越来越无余地,死者需要运往更远的地方埋葬。
From Sydney beaches to underground waterways
从悉尼海滩到地下水道
Sydney is known for its incredible coastline and Bondi Beach fame. But there are other water-based facts about Sydney away from its ocean-hugging suburbs.
悉尼因拥有极佳的海岸线和邦迪海滩而闻名于世。但除了近海的郊区,这里还有其他与水息息相关的地方。
The Tank Stream is renowned as a vastly crucial freshwater source that kept the fledging colony going for a few dry years. Today, the stream is just a stormwater drain buried beneath the Sydney streetscape, explored only by the select few who are lucky enough to win the highly contested ballot to survey its course underground.
天溪是有名的淡水源,发挥了极其重要的作用,在殖民地初建时保护它安然度过了几年的干旱。今天,这条溪流只是暴雨来到时的排水道,隐藏于悉尼街道下面,只有少数赢得竞争激烈的抽签的幸运儿才能一睹其地下水道的尊容。
It is far from Sydney’s only underground water source, however. Australian magazine Inside History explained that beneath St James railway station lies a submerged lake of the same name. The underground lake is about a kilometre long and ten metres wide, flowing through an abandoned railway tunnel from the 1920s, with surprisingly clear waters.
不过,它绝不是悉尼唯一的地下水源。澳大利亚杂志《历史内幕》称,在圣詹姆斯火车站下面有一个同名的地下湖。此湖约1公里长、10米宽,从20世纪20年代起就流经一条废弃的铁路隧道,湖水清澈出奇。
1指1788年英国运送囚犯到澳大利亚的第一支舰队。该舰队由海军护卫舰、罪犯运输舰和补给舰组成,由船长亚瑟·菲利普率领,从普利茅斯港驶达澳大利亚新南威尔士州悉尼港,建立起英国在澳大利亚的第一个殖民地。 2 Albion阿尔比恩,英格兰的旧称。源自词根alb(白色),原指英格兰西南部海岸的石灰岩悬崖,后代指英格兰。在诗歌等文学作品中,此词为英格兰或不列颠的雅称。