Paskho’s Regenerative Business Model帕什科的再生商业模式

露蒂·科恩布拉特–斯捷　冯懿/译

According to Lauren Bravos book， How to Break Up with Fast Fashion， we only wear 10–20 percent of the clothes in our closets on a daily basis. Patrick Robinson—a designer who has transformed global brands such as Giorgio Armani， Perry Ellis， and the Gap—has made it his mission to change how we approach consumerism and our closets.

劳伦·布拉沃在其《如何摆脱快时尚》一书中提到，我们平日里只会穿衣柜中10%—20%的衣服。帕特里克·鲁滨逊是一位设计师，他改造过乔治·阿玛尼、派瑞·艾力斯和盖璞等全球性品牌。他把改變人们对待消费主义和自家衣柜的态度作为自己的使命。

For over 25 years， Robinson helped haute-couture and other fashion brands to revamp and rethink their business models. “On paper， I was thriving，” he explained. “I was making good money. I was running global businesses and leading design teams in Tokyo， London， New York. But I was also making more clothes than anyone on Earth could possibly wear.”

超过25年来，鲁滨逊帮助高级时装和其他时尚品牌进行改造并重新思考自身商业模式。“理论上，我过得很好。”他解释道，“我赚了很多钱。我还在东京、伦敦和纽约打理全球业务，带领设计团队。但我也在做衣服，做的多到地球上任何人都穿不完。”

“I felt like I was lying. I was talking out of both sides of my mouth1. On the one hand， I believed in sustainability， ethical labor practices， and community. But neither my businesses nor my actions reflected that，” he said. He knew that he needed to make a change， and thus Paskho was born. Paskho is a company that strives to create functional， fashionable clothes to combat the problems of waste and exploitation rampant in the fashion industry. After establishing the ethical foundations for the business， Robinson began to purchase leftover fabrics from factories.

“我觉得我在撒谎，说话看场合。一方面，我相信可持续发展、符合道德规范的劳动行为和社区的重要性，但我的生意或行动都没有体现出这一点。”鲁滨逊说。他知道自己需要改变，于是，帕什科诞生了。帕什科公司致力于制作实用与时尚兼顾的服装，以对抗泛滥于时尚产业的浪费和剥削。在确立了公司的道德根基后，鲁滨逊开始从工厂购买剩余的布料。

“After seeing how much high-quality material goes to waste， that was the only way I could feel like I was adhering to my values，” he explained. Still today， much of Paskhos fabrics are saved from landfills， emphasizing the crucial importance of conscious consumerism in todays world. “Not only are our production practices sustainable， but we create pieces of clothing that you want to wear everywhere： our clothes work in Hea-throw Airport; they work on the side of a mountain; they work in the fanciest restaurant in Bologna，” said Robinson.

“看到这么多优质材料被浪费掉，我感觉成立帕什科是我坚持个人价值观的唯一方法。”他解释道。时至今日，帕什科的大部分布料都是从垃圾填埋场中抢救回来的，这体现了当今世界关注消费主义的重要性。鲁滨逊说：“我们的生产实践不仅可持续，还制作出了顾客在任何场合都想穿的衣服：我们的衣服在希思罗机场能穿；爬山时能穿；在博洛尼亚最豪华的餐厅里也能穿。”

The brand works to combat social inequalities across the United States by bringing jobs back to underserved communities while adhering to sustainable production practices. It is a business model that aims to bridge the gap between the production process and the consumer by bringing consistent， quality work to the talented Americans who work predominantly with their hands. In contrast to other businesses that took a financial hit during the pandemic， 2020 served as a catalyst for Paskho to hit the ground running2 with their signature Community-Made Maker program.

在坚持可持续生产的同时，帕什科还致力于在贫困社区创造就业机会，以消除美国各地的社会不平等现象。这种商业模式为主要靠双手谋生的美国人才提供稳定、优质的工作，旨在以此消除生产流程和消费者之间的隔阂。与其他在疫情期间遭受经济打击的企业相比，2020年成为帕什科顺利启动其标志性项目“社区制造创客计划”的催化剂。

“The global economy came to a grinding halt. And something just clicked3 for me. There are so many Americans who are hungry for work and who already have the wonderful skills we need to sharpen our competitive advantage，” said Robinson. “We really made it happen.”

“全球經济陷入停滞。我突然有了灵感。有这么多美国人渴望工作，而且他们已经掌握了我们提高竞争优势所需要的出色技能。”鲁滨逊说，“我们真的做到了。”

The first Makers in the Community-Made program were the talented Broadway costumers， seamstresses， and tailors who found themselves suddenly out of work during the pandemic. Paskho set up shop with eighteen Makers in New York City， allowing the brand to continue manufacturing and supplying clothes to consumers at the height of the pandemic when other companies could not do so. The second Maker community that Robinson established was in Gees Bend4， Alabama， a community with a remarkable and unusual tradition of quilting. Although the communitys quilts have been recognized as significant pieces of American art in exhibits at the Whitney and the Philadelphia Museum of Art， the actual quilters themselves have remained in relative obscurity. They have seen little financial gain despite the art worlds recognition.

“社区制造创客计划”的第一批创客中，有才华横溢的百老汇服装师，也有女裁缝和男装裁缝，他们都在疫情期间突然失业了。帕什科与18名创客一起在纽约市开店，这让该品牌得以在疫情最严重的时候继续为消费者生产并供应服装，而其他公司在当时无法做到这一点。鲁滨逊建立的第二个创客社区位于亚拉巴马州的吉之弯，这个社区拥有别出心裁的非凡棉被缝制传统。该社区的棉被在惠特尼美国艺术博物馆和费城艺术博物馆展出时都被认为是美国艺术的重要作品，相比之下，实际制作这些棉被的绗缝师们仍不为人知。虽然他们获得了艺术界的认可，但几乎没有得到经济上的收益。

Through the work of Upstart Co-Lab， a foundation that aims to connect capital with creative minds making a difference， Robinson connected with the Souls Grown Deep Foundation， a nonprofit that works to promote the work of black artists from the American south. One year after launching the Commu-nity-Made program in New York， Paskho created its second sewing pod in Gees Bend to provide the communitys expert quilters with reliable salaries and work that recognizes their craft. In 2022， Paskho established its third pod in Eagle Butte on the Cheyenne River Reservation in South Dakota.

“Upstart联合实验室”是一个将资本与有所作为的创新人才联系起来的基金会。鲁滨逊通过该基金会的帮助，与推广美国南部黑人艺术家作品的非营利性组织Souls Grown Deep基金会建立了联系。在纽约启动“社区制造创客计划”一年后，帕什科在吉之弯建立了第二个缝纫车间，为该社区技术精湛的绗缝师们提供稳定的薪水和能发挥技艺的工作。2022年，帕什科又在南达科他州夏延河保留地的伊格尔比特建立了第三个车间。

“Native American reservations are where some of the worst systemic inequalities are perpetrated，” said Robin-son. “I know that I cant fix these problems by myself. But I hope that I can make some difference by creating economic opportunity for our Makers and their communities.”

“美国原住民保留地一直存在严重的系统性不平等问题。”鲁滨逊说，“我知道仅凭我自己解决不了这些问题，但我希望通过为创客和他们的社区创造经济机会，自己能够有所作为。”

By cutting out shipping processes， middlemen， and all the costs associated with manufacturing overseas， Paskho can turn a profit and pay its Makers and laborers a fair wage. The regenerative business model benefits everyone， from the Makers to the investors to the consumers. “Not only are we doing the right thing by putting talented Americans to work， but we actually have a strategic advantage over other companies，” explained Robinson. “Something that were working on today will be done in production in a week or less. Then we can start shipping directly to our consumers. I dont have to wait or pay for a boat to take a shirt halfway around the world. Were a much smarter， quicker company.” Though it took time for Paskhos unusual regenerative model to gain traction at its inception， investors have seen that having the point of production so close to the consumer pays off quickly.

通过简化运输流程、绕过中间商、削减所有与海外制造相关的成本，帕什科可以实现盈利，给创客和工人们支付合理的工资。这种再生商业模式让包括创客、投资者和消费者在内的每个人都能从中受益。“我们为有才能的美国人提供工作不仅是在做一件正确的事情，这实际上也让我们比其他公司更有战略优势。”鲁滨逊解释说，“我们今天在做的东西能在一周或更短的时间内完成生产。然后，我们就可以开始直接向消费者发货。我不必等待或花运费用船把一件衬衫跨半个地球送过去。我们是一个更智能、更快速的公司。”虽然这种与众不同的再生模式让帕什科在成立了一段时间后才受到关注，但投资者已经看到，把生产地点设置得离消费者如此近，很快就会得到回报。

Paskhos model provides real， meas-urable impacts such as job creation， increased economic opportunity for chronically underserved populations， and reduced environmental harm. Theres nothing political about the philosophy and ethos of Paskho. Its a brand that is based on the simple value of treating one another and our planet with conscious consideration. Robinson wants us all to reflect on what it is that makes us happy and what it is that makes us fulfilled. “Its not our things， its not our wealth. Its the care that we give to the world and the people around us，” he said.

帕什科的模式帶来了重大的真实影响，如创造就业岗位，为长期贫困的人口增加经济机会，以及减少环境危害。帕什科的理念和精神没有任何政治色彩。这个品牌基于一种简单的价值观，即有意识地善待彼此和地球。鲁滨逊希望人们都能反思是什么让我们快乐，是什么让我们感到充实。“不是我们所拥有的东西，不是我们的财富，而是我们给予世界和身边人的关怀。”他说。

“We dont need to give up beauty. We dont need to give up our style or individualism. But we need to ask ourselves—how can I walk through this world more lightly？”

“我们不必舍弃美，也不必舍弃我们的风格或个人主义。但我们需要问自己：如何能走过世界而不留下沉重负担？”

（译者为“《英语世界》杯”翻译大赛获奖者；单位：华南理工大学）