在岭南， 感受潮汕的魅力

张晓如

潮汕地區主要包括位于广东省东南沿海的汕头、揭阳、潮州、汕尾四个城市，其文化是岭南文化的重要组成部分。在几千年的历史发展进程中，潮汕的传统文化并没有被时代的洪流冲走，其形式和内涵都被较好地保留了下来，在今天依然熠熠生辉。

The Chaoshan region mainly includes four cities in the southeastern coastal area of Guangdong Province：Shantou， Jieyang， Chaozhou， and Shanwei. It is where important part of Lingnan culture is based. ousands ofyears of historical development has not eroded the unique Chaoshan traditions. Its form and essence have been wellpreserved and are still refreshing today.

古韵之美——潮汕戏剧

潮汕的戏剧，以潮剧为代表。潮剧是一个用潮汕话进行演唱的古老戏种，距今已有400多年的历史，是广东三大地方剧种之一。其传统剧目大多来自宋元时期的剧目和当地的民间传说，文辞优美，注重俚语、歇后语以及生活化语言的使用，唱腔婉转轻柔。潮剧的角色以生角、旦角和丑角最具特色。传统折子戏《扫窗会》《杨令婆辩本》《闹钗》等汇聚了传统潮剧的精华，用现实主义的手法展现出劳动人民与权贵斗智斗勇的智慧。作家老舍曾称赞她“一曲宋元遗韵在，冠山韩水此情长”。如今，潮剧已被列入国家非物质文化遗产名录。

Chaoshan Opera， a representative of the theatricalculture in Chaoshan， is an ancient art form sung inChaoshan dialect. It has a history of more than 400 yearsand is one of the three major local operas in Guangdong.Most of its traditional repertoire can be traced backto the Song and Yuan dynasties and are inspired bylocal folklore. e language used in the plays is elegant，featuring the use of slang， idioms， and colloquialism， andis delivered through melodious and gentle singing. emost eye-catching roles in Chaoshan Opera are Sheng（the positive male role） and Dan （the positive female role）as well as Chou （the clown role）. Classicexcerpts such as Reunion rough WindowSweep， Mother Yu’s Defence of GeneralYang， and A Misunderstanding Caused by aHairpin embody the essence of traditionalChaoshan Opera， showcasing throughrealistic artistic expression the wisdomof the grassroots battling wits with theprivileged ones. The celebrated writerLao She （1899–1966） once praised it in apoem： “ e charm of the Song and Yuandynasties lingers here， and the sentimentof Guanshan （Guanshan Village inChanghai City of Chaoshan area） andHanshui （Hanjiang River of Chaoshanin the name of Han Yu， Chaozhouprefectural governor in the Tang Dynasty） reaches deep.”Today， Chaoshan Opera has been recognized as a nationalintangible cultural heritage.

传统“3D 工艺”——潮绣、木雕

在漫长的历史长河中，潮汕人民用智慧孕育出了一批非物质文化遗产，潮绣、木雕、泥塑等工艺都是弥足珍贵的文化瑰宝。最负盛名的潮绣和木雕，因为多层立体的特点，具有独特的3D 效果。

The local intangible cultural heritages， such asembroidery， wood carving， and clay sculpture， areproducts of Chaoshan people’s wisdom. The mostfamous ones among them are Chaoshan embroideryand wood carving， both featuring multi-layering cra sthat give the artefact unique 3D e ects.

潮繡，是中国四大名绣粤绣的一种，有着1 000多年的历史，以浓烈的色彩、丰富的针法、金绒相配为特点，别具一格的立体效果傲然于中国刺绣的众多流派中，被广泛应用于宗祠装饰和日常生活。潮绣作品从远处看，仿佛一件件浮雕；走近看，则更像是一个个精雕细琢的丝线世界，栩栩如生的飞禽走兽、花卉植物和形形色色的人物形象在一块小小的布上呼之欲出，呈现出强烈的生命力。

One of the four most celebrated embroideries inChina， Chaoshan embroidery， as a subcategory of Yueembroidery， has a history of over a thousand years.It is characterized by rich colors， diverse stitchingtechniques， and the use of golden floss to match thethreads. Its distinctive 3D effects allows it to standout among various genres of Chinese embroidery.Chaoshan embroidery is widely used in the decorationof ancestral temples and in daily life. From a distance，Chaoshan embroidery works resemble reliefs， but upclose， they are meticulously cra ed universes made ofsilk threads. On a small piece of fabric are vivid imagesof birds， animals， flowers， plants， and various human gures， all coming to life.

另一具有代表性的潮汕工艺是潮州木雕。作为中国三大木雕之一，潮州木雕以精细雕刻著称，多层镂空是它最大的特点之一，同时常用金漆进行装饰。“ 龙虾蟹篓”是潮汕木雕中最具代表性的作品。一块平平无奇的木头，经过匠人的手，变得活灵活现、华丽精致。无论从哪个角度，我们都能欣赏到其中角色的生动形象。在今天，木雕多用于祭祀或装饰，表达潮汕人对宗族先贤的怀念。

中华战舞——潮汕英歌舞

潮汕英歌舞已有300多年的历史，集戏剧、舞蹈、武术于一体，取材于中国四大名著之一的《水浒传》中梁山好汉起义的故事，通常在游神（过年习俗之一）或庆典时表演。英歌舞的表演不局限于舞台，队伍通常有36人、72 人或108 人，每位表演者都绘上不同的人物角色脸谱，身穿戏服，手持双木棍，走街串巷，敲锣打鼓。表演者并非专业演员，但其雄浑有劲的口号声和气势如虹的鼓声，让英歌舞十分震撼人心，因此，英歌舞也被称为“中华战舞”“民间街舞”。英歌舞所到之处，人们的喝彩声不绝于耳。

Chaoshan Yingge Dance （literally： the Chaoshansong and dance of heroes） has a history of more than300 years. e art form， which combines drama， dance，and martial arts， tells stories of the uprising of theLiangshan heroes depicted in Shui Hu Zhuan （WaterMargins）， one of the Four Great Classical Novels ofChina. e dance is usually performed for the You ShenFestival （one of the customsduring the Chinese NewYear） or other celebrations.The p e r formanc e i snot confined by a stage.Instead， the troupe， whichusually consists of 36， 72，or 108 people， would paradein costumes through the streets，beating gongs and drums， with theirfaces painted according to their given roles andwith double sticks in hand. The performers are notprofessional actors， but their vigorous and powerfulslogans and the thunderous drum beats make thedance extremely heartening. This is why the danceis also known as “Chaoshan Battle Dance” and “FolkStreet Dance”. Wherever the troupe goes， spectators’cheering would follow.

原汁原味——舌尖上的潮汕

美食是潮汕地区的另一张“名片”。在中国八大菜系中，潮汕美食以其原汁原味独树一帜。

Chaoshan is also famous for its numerous delicacies.Among the Eight Great Cuisines of China， Chaoshancuisine stands out because of its unique pursuit ofpreserving the original avor of the ingredients.

一头牛从离开养殖场到送上餐桌不过半个小时，不同部位的牛肉被切成大小不同、厚薄不一的形状，放入牛骨汤烫熟后迅速捞起，在牛肉片和沙茶酱的交融中，味蕾和神经之间产生“电光火石”般的碰撞，这就是潮汕牛肉火锅。新鲜牛肉经过“千锤百炼”，成为一颗颗弹牙劲道、爽口爆汁的潮汕牛肉丸，其口感劲爽，像乒乓球一样弹力十足。

According to the standard of Chaoshan cuisine， itshould take less than half an hour for the beef to leavethe farm and to reach the dining table. Di erent partsare cut into various shapes and sizes， quickly blanchedin beef bone soup， and then swiftly scooped up. Inthe mouth， beef slices and satay sauce collide， awakingthe taste buds and creating a sensation that electrifiesthe nerves. This is what Chaoshan beef hotpot is like.The freshest beef， its major ingredient， would undergometiculous pounding and be turned into tender and avorful and chewy beef balls as bouncy as ping-pong balls.

大米研磨成浆，炊熟成潮汕粿条，塑造出大米的另一番清香味道。在潮汕人的餐桌上，三餐有它，祭祀有它，聚会也有它。颜色多彩、口味丰富的“粿”成了出镜率最高的食物。

Guo （Chaoshanrice rolls） are madeof rice grounded into apaste. The cooked pastehas a distinct fragrant tasteof rice. On the dinning tablesof a typical Chaoshan family， therolls are served with every meal， andduring sacrificial ceremonies and gatherings aswell. e colorful and richly avored guo is the mostfrequently seen food in Chaoshan.

鲜活的海鲜用白酒浸泡后进行腌制，成了入口即化的美食——潮汕生腌海鲜。

The Chaoshan people often soak fresh seafoodwhite wine. is magical process creates a melt-in-yourmouthdelicacy： Chaozhou marinated raw seafood.

肥美的大鹅经过传统方法卤制后，肉质鲜嫩肥美，入口顺滑，汁水饱满，鹅的鲜味和卤料的香味在舌尖徘徊，这就是香气醇厚的澄海“狮头鹅”。

Another famous dish that involves marinating isthe braised goose. Fat geese， having been marinatedand stewed in the traditional fashion， are particularlytender and juicy. e meat enters the mouth smoothly，with avorful juice dripping， leaving behind the aromaof the goose and the braising sauce. Such a dish isknown as the fragrant “Lionhead Goose” of Chenghai（a district under Shantou City of Chaoshan）.

这一道道鲜美的潮汕美食，都是一张张潮汕最好的“名片”。

With every bite， the charm of Chaoshan is bestsavored.

茶道一绝——潮汕工夫茶

潮汕人嗜茶如命，茶是家家户户日常自饮、待客的重要部分。潮汕工夫茶的冲泡流程多，讲究的细节也多。工夫茶的茶具有手拉壶、茶杯、茶盘、茶洗、龙缸等数十种，冲泡包括煮水、烫杯、纳茶（茶叶由粗到细放置）、冲茶、刮沫（刮走茶沫）、洒茶等程序。在潮汕，茶通常由主人冲泡，以示对客人的尊重。冲泡时，第一泡茶含有杂质须倒掉；斟茶时，潮汕人会遵循先长者后晚辈、先宾客后自家人的顺序；倒茶时，茶杯不可倒满；宾客接过茶杯时，要用“叩手礼”表示感谢，同时要轻拿轻放。如果茶色变淡了，要及时换茶叶，否则就是在下“逐客令”。或一家老少，或三五知己，围炉品茗，喝的是茶，传递的却是浓浓的人情。

Chaoshan people adore tea， which is an essentialpart of their daily life. Tea is served to entertainthemselves or to treat guests. The brewing process ofChaoshan Gongfu Tea is complex. Attention needs to bepaid to every detail. A Gongfu tea set includes a handpulledpot， teacups， a tea tray， a tea wash， a dragonpot， and dozens of other utensils. e process involvesboiling water， warming cups， placing tea leaves （fromthicker ones to thinner ones）， brewing the tea， scrapingo the foam， and sprinkling the tea. In Chaoshan， it isusually the host who brews the tea to show respect tothe guests. During the brewing process， the rst steepingof tea containing impurities needs to be poured out.Chaoshan people serve tea to the elders rst and then toyounger generations， followed by guests and then familymembers. When pouring tea， the host should never llthe cup to the brim， and guests should express gratitudewith a “knocking nger gesture” when receiving the cup. e cups are handled gently. e tea leaves need to bechanged when the tea color turns light; otherwise， theguests might assume the host is asking them to leave.With the passing of cups， whether it is between familymembers or between friends， the ties between peoplegrow stronger.

潮汕地區见证着潮汕人坚守传统又勇于探索的故事和对生活的热爱。在这里，一山一海，一歌一舞，闪耀着极具表现力的文化光辉；一雕一刻，展现出巧夺天工的岭南工艺；一茶一饭，满足了人们对美食的美好想象。

The Chaoshan region witnesses the stories ofChaoshan people， who are determined in observingtheir traditions while courageous in exploringtheir future， as well as their love for life. Here， themountains and the sea， the songs and the dances，all speak to the splendidness of the local culture.Each carving and engraving showcase the exquisiteLingnan craftsmanship. Every seep of the tea andeach bite of the food would delight even the toughestconnoisseur.