桐乡古镇石门湾往事

沈怡华 费洪标

作为军事经济重镇，石门湾曾风光无限，商贾船只往来不断。如今风烟散尽，遗迹依稀，这里成了文人雅士怀古思远的最好去处。

“走了五省，经过大小百数十个码头，才知道我的故乡石门湾，真是一个好地方。”一代艺术大师丰子恺在《辞缘缘堂》中写下与故土情牵梦萦的情愫。

石门湾在哪？它位于浙江省北部，杭嘉湖平原腹地，隶属于桐乡市，是桐乡四大古镇之一，闻名中外的乌镇与其相距20多公里路程。相比于乌镇的热闹喧嚣，古镇石门湾多了几分深沉隽永。

这份古韵藏在深厚的历史积淀里，早在2500年前的春秋时期，越国为了抵御吴国曾在此垒石为门，故名石门。南宋石门驿中设行幄，为皇帝往来之行宫，乾隆六下江南时曾在此驻跸。

悠悠京杭大运河自杭州经塘栖、崇德蜿蜒而来，至石门突然拐了120度的元宝弯折向东北，筑就了石门湾这块风水宝地。这方水土有灵性，孕育了不少名人大家。

（一）

回首百年前的民国时期，思想开化，是一个大师群芳的年代，仅石门就走出了丰子恺、吴清源、张星逸等大师或专家。

丰子恺可以说是石门镇最深刻的烙印。作为我国近现代史上著名的文艺家、新文化运动的启蒙者、现代漫画的鼻祖，丰子恺在文学、音乐、书法、教育、翻译等各方面都有极高的造诣，是难得的全才。

1898年，丰子恺出生在石门一书香之家，自小深受中国传统文化的影响。17岁，他考到当时的浙江省立第一师范学校求学，向李叔同学习音乐和西洋绘画，向夏丏尊学习国文，之后，他前往日本深造。他在东京的二手书店看到竹久梦二的春之卷画集，这为他打开了一扇艺术的大门。

20世纪二三十年代，丰子恺以他别具一格、反映现实、富有哲理的“子恺漫画”享誉国内外。他的漫画寥寥几笔，却包罗人生滋味和人间冷暖，诠释了现代文人的家国情怀。

1933年，丰子恺用稿费在石门建起“缘缘堂”。这里的生活点滴给予了他无尽的创作灵感，许多漫画与文学作品皆取材于此，比如著名的《缘缘堂随笔》。可以说，这富庶的土地孕育了丰子恺浓浓的乡情，才诞生出一个个鲜活生动的艺术形象。

1937年抗日战争爆发，缘缘堂也被日军炸毁，丰子恺心痛不已，逃亡路上写下《还我缘缘堂》《告缘缘堂在天之灵》《辞缘缘堂》数文。1984年，在桐乡县（）政府和丰子恺好友的资助下，缘缘堂在原址得以重建。

丰子恺的一生受李叔同影响深远。1928年，丰子恺画了50幅护生画为老师50岁助寿，并约定在老师60岁的时候画60幅，100岁时画100幅。1942年，弘一法师（）圆寂，但是丰子恺又继续绘作，用46年完成了《护生画集》。

如今斯人已去，但丰子恺的艺术光芒仍照耀着中国艺术世界。他的漫画、文学、音乐、译著等艺术贡献，一直温润着后人的心灵。

吴清源之于围棋，有如爱因斯坦之于物理学，他被称为“20世纪的围棋天才”，一生奉献于棋道。

1914年6月12日，吴清源出生于福州，在北京度过了童年和少年时代。15岁时吴清源肩负中日围棋事业进步和中日和睦的使命，前往东京，成长为一名职业棋士。

从二战前至二战后的十番棋比赛中，他一个接一个地击败了当时名震棋坛的日本一流棋手，走上围棋神坛。但不管命运如何跌宕，不管身在何处，吴清源一家都没有忘记自己的祖籍地——浙江石门，他们都声称自己是石门吴家的后代。吴清源曾委托亲人多次来浙江寻访，可惜都无功而返。

2014年11月30日，一代“围棋泰斗”吴清源在日本仙逝，留下了棋坛未来几十年都难以泯灭的佳话与神话，也留下未能寻得根在何方的遗憾。

但命运在冥冥中有着自己的安排。2015年，福建吴氏后人吴树钧寻到石门，也牵出了石门吴家的荣光。他们的老祖宗叫吴涵，字容大，康熙二十一年（）高中“进士及第”，为榜眼，任翰林院编修，后升顺天府丞、工部侍郎，转刑部。因审案公允，吴涵受康熙赏识，赐“慎行堂”匾额，后升左都御史。1825年，“慎行堂”裔孙吴渶中举后赴福建任学官，带去的还有“慎行堂”堂名，而吴清源正是这一支系的后人。为了纪念吴清源，石门当地政府设立了“吴清源祖居地”纪念碑。

2017年5月，吴清源的女儿吴佳澄来到石门寻根访祖，了却父亲生前遗愿。吴佳澄深情地表示：“如果父亲还活着，知道我们找到祖居地，他肯定会非常高兴的。”

元曲原属民间文学艺术，但曲语中夹杂着大量的方言俗語，对今人的阅读构成了一大难题。然而一位石门人通过一本《元曲选释补证》，震动了元曲研究界，这为后人研究元曲提供了方向。他就是张星逸。张星逸1908年出生于石门米商之家，父亲张兰墀通文墨，嗜好剧曲，张星逸从小浸淫在良好的家学传统中。在故乡时，他跟随丰子恺学习日语和绘画，在上海更是丰家的熟客。

受父亲影响，张星逸留意于元曲曲语的探解。丰子恺还曾专门介绍他去拜访中国古典戏曲研究大家赵景深教授。机缘巧合下，张星逸接触到两本日本出版的《元曲选释》，由吉川幸次郎选编并注释。但读了几篇后，他发现其中有很多不妥和误释之处。在赵景深的鼓励下，张星逸根据日本京都版《元曲选释》完成了《元曲选释补证》。赵景深阅后大喜，认定这份《补证》学术价值非同一般，并将册子交给了日本横滨市立大学的汉学家波多野太郎教授，随后以横滨市立大学论丛名义分期发表。

发表的《元曲选释补证》虽只是六个簿册，但在当时的元曲研究界引起了不小的震动。对于名不见经传的著者张心逸，无人了解其背景。但他一出手，就能指正最有实力的日本汉学权威的著作，很多学者争相询问其来历。京都大学的吉川幸次郎教授更是亲自写信向星逸先生表示诚挚的谢意，两人由此成了学术上的真正朋友。

（二）

文化赓续绵延不断，新中国成立以来，石门又陆续走出众多文化名人，吴蓬和叶瑜荪就是其中的佼佼者。

“石门吴家”是真正的书香门第，除了出了吴清源这样的围棋天才，当代书画大家吴蓬也从这里走出。

吳蓬，原名吴士龙，字抱虹，又字稚农，1941年生于石门湾下塘玉带环腰处，为当代著名书画大家、美术理论家、书画教育家、评论家。他善古琴，精篆刻，尤精鉴赏，具有很高的文艺修养和学术胆识。因自幼爱鸡，在农村务农时他画了大量鸡的速写。画鸡成为他的一绝，笔墨趣味横生，扑腾纸上，业内观之，无不叫绝。他创立“五行品味说”，用于对书画的创作与鉴赏，对当今画坛影响颇深。其山水、花鸟、人物皆臻绝妙，山水中以长卷最见功力，所写流水最为动人，时称“天下第一水”;花鸟中以兰竹为出手绝，所写墨雏，能在浑朴中见精微，是谓前无古人、时罕其匹，被誉为“当代齐白石”。

吴蓬著作颇丰，有《芥子园画谱·吴蓬临本》《白雪斋画学丛书》《蓬岚阁画谱》《砚田耕耘录》《五行品味图鉴》《笔墨图说》等书画教学教材。他创作的国画《乌镇双桥》曾在第二届世界互联网大会上作为国礼，赠送给俄罗斯时任总理梅德韦杰夫。

2015年，吴蓬为支持家乡文化事业建设，向桐乡市捐赠书画作品2300余件，并在2016年发起并成立“浙江吴蓬艺术基金会”。

叶瑜荪，字知秋，斋号容园，1948年出生于石门，浙派竹雕的民间艺术家，30多岁始学竹刻，终成大家。丰子恺的画，陈从周的字，经叶瑜荪手下的刻刀，留在了一段竹刻臂搁上。

叶瑜荪7岁学画，12岁学篆刻，后习民间木雕。虽然叶瑜荪的前半辈子都在与美术、工艺打交道，但真正接触竹刻，却是在1979年——当时，北京荣宝斋出口日本的文房四宝中，需要配套的竹刻臂搁，对竹刻艺术颇有兴趣的叶瑜荪答应下来，并开始留心收集竹刻资料，尝试学习研刻。

渐渐地，叶瑜荪发现，以自己的工艺基础和爱好方向，更适合专研文人竹刻一路。文人竹刻是浙派竹刻的主要特征。嘉兴则是浙派竹刻的主要代表之一，自明末至民国出过文后山、沈振名、胡钁、袁馨等40多名竹人。出于对同乡前辈丰子恺先生的景仰和偏好，他尝试以竹刻去表现子恺书画的意趣，收到了未曾料想的效果。

而文博大家、竹刻学研究权威王世襄先生的一封信，则给叶瑜荪未来的创作之路指明了方向，王世襄先生说，光刻一类题材，技法受限，不利于竹刻技艺的传承和创新。于是，叶瑜荪开始在作品中运用浮雕、深刻等技法，摹刻古今名家字画。

如今，叶瑜荪的竹刻作品饮誉海内外，著有《竹刻漫谈》《竹刻文化谈荟》《丰子恺的艺术人生》《分心堂笔记》等专著，出版了《容园竹刻》、《竹刻技艺》等专著，1995年9月还被联合国教科文组织和中国民间文艺家协会授予“一级民间工艺美术家”称号，1996年3月曾应邀赴新加坡举办展览。

著名的古建筑园林大家陈从周教授更是对他推崇有加，誉其为“竹人之魁”，曾特嘱其刻两件作品转赠给国际著名建筑大师贝聿铭。叶瑜荪说：“我在刻竹子的同时，竹子也在雕刻我，我的生活习惯、性格、爱好、人品和人生观都在刻竹的过程中被改变和深化了。”

“It was not until after I had visited hundreds of cities and towns in five provinces that I became aware that my hometown Shimenwan is really a paradise，” wrote Feng Zikai （1898-1975）， a master of art celebrated for his unprecedented literati-styled cartoons and essays. He was a native of Shimen， a tiny ancient town on the Grand Canal of China in northern Zhejiang.

The town is about 20 kilometers from Wuzhen， now the best known canal town in northern Zhejiang. Like Wuzhen， Shimen is located in the territory of Tongxiang， a city in northern Zhejiang. Unlike Wuzhen which is sometimes full of people from all over the world， Shimen is quiet and comfortable with itself. The Yue Kingdom and the Wu Kingdom were at war with each other in this region over 2，500 years ago. In order to defend itself against the northern enemy， Yue built a stone gate where the town is now. According to local historians， thats how the town is called Shimen （literally stone gate in Chinese）. In the Southern Song （1127-1279）， the town had a government-operated post service. Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty （1466-1911） is said to have stayed in town on his southern inspection tours toward Hangzhou.

Shimen is also known as Shimenwan. “Wan” in the Chinese name refers to a river bend. The Grand Canal comes from Hangzhou before it takes an abrupt 120-degree turn at the town and flows in the direction of northeast. The town sits and flourishes at the sharp bend.

Shimen has given birth to some cultural celebrities in modern times.

Feng Zikai

He is the best known celebrity of Shimen. Feng Zikai （1898-1975）， generally considered the founding father of modern Chinas literati cartoons， was a versatile master. A man of letters， he was also a musician， calligrapher， educator and translator. He studied music and art under the guidance of Li Shutong， a celebrity of culture and religion， and studied Chinese classics under the guidance of Xia Mianzun， a professor of ancient poetry. It was in a secondhand bookstore in Tokyo during his years in Japan that Feng ran into an art collection by Yumeji Takehisa. Inspired by Takehisas artworks， Feng began to create literati-styled cartoons that portray a lifestyle seen in Jiangnan. In the 1920s and the 1930s， Feng was best known for his literati-styled cartoons. In 1933， he came back to Shimen and built a house which he called Yuanyuantang. He planned to live there， but the residence was destroyed in Japanese bombing in 1937 after Japan launched an all-out invasion into China.

Wu Qingyuan

To the surprise of many people， Wu Qingyuan （1914-2014）， a very influential Weiqi player of China， had his ancestral roots in Shimen. In his lifetime， Wu knew his ancestor came from Shimen but he wasnt sure where Shimen was in Zhejiang. He was born in Fuzhou， the capital of Fujian Province to the south of Zhejiang， and spent his childhood years in Beijing. At 15， he went to Japan to study under Weiqi masters there. He grew up to be the best Weiqi player in Japan. His relatives in Fujian didnt know where Shimen was either. Wu asked a few relatives to visit Zhejiang in a bid to locate Shimen， but， strangely enough， all to no avail. It was not until 2015 that Wu Shujun， a descendent of the Wu clan in Fujian， found Shimen in Tongxiang. His visit to Shimen made the Wu clan in Shimen well known to the present-day world. The most glorious ancestor of the Wu clan in Shimen was Wu Han， who came out the third in an imperial examination in 1682. He served as a high-ranking official of the Qing Dynasty. His fairness in making judicial decisions was highly appreciated by Emperor Kangxi who handwritten a plaque to honor the official. About 190 years ago， Wu Ying， a descendent of Wu Han， was appointed to a position in the education authorities in Fujian. He became the founding father of the Shimen-related Wu clan in Fujian. Wu Qingyuan was a descendent of the clan in Fujian. In May 2017， Wu Jiacheng， the daughter of Wu Qingyuan， visited Shimen and paid homage to their ancestors.

Zhang Xingyi

Born in 1908， he came from a family of business. His father was a man of letters with a passion for theater. The junior grew up to be a theater fan. He studied Japanese and art under the guidance of Feng Zikai. Like his father， Zhang Xingyi specialized in the poems of the Yuan Dynasty （1279-1368） known as Yuan Qu. Recommended by his mentor Feng Zikai， Zhang visited Professor Zhao Jingshen， a linguist with a profound knowledge of ancient Chinese theater. Encouraged by Zhao， Zhang Xingyi corrected many mistakes in a Japanese selection of the Yuan Qu poetry put together and annotated by a Japanese professor. Zhangs amendment was published in an academic journal in Japan， and caused a stir in both China and Japan.

Wu Peng

Born in 1941， Wu Peng is an art master. He is a calligrapher and painter， aesthetician， art educator and critic. He also plays the Qin， an ancient Chinese string instrument. In 2015， Wu donated 2，300 artworks of painting and calligraphy to Tongxiang and set up Wu Peng Art Foundation there in 2016.

Ye Yusun

Born in 1945， Ye Yusun turned to bamboo carving at the age of 34. He took art lessons at 7 and studied seal carving at 12. He later turned to woodcarving. In 1979， he was approached by Rong Bao Zhai， a shop set up in 1672 in Beijing and specialized in traditional stationery， calligraphy and painting， to make some carvings on bamboo armrests for stationery to be exported to Japan. Ye agreed to do it. After the assignment， he began a self-education course on the art. He found that Feng Zikais literati cartoons appealed to him. Wang Shixiang （1914-2009）， a researcher of traditional Chinese culture， leading art collector， poet， and calligrapher， appreciated Yes bamboo carving and directed him to expand his techniques and themes. Ye now applies a full range of carving techniques to his carving. His bamboo-carving artworks include some reproduction of best known artworks of painting and calligraphy by ancient masters. Since the mid-1990s， Ye has been Chinas best known bamboo engraver.

“While I carve bamboo， bamboo carves me， too. Bamboo carving has transformed me and my life totally，” says the master.