诸芸
既有国际范,也有烟火味
如果不是亲眼所见,你很难想象,这样一座特别的廊桥,嵌刻在潺潺溪水间,是那么自然。
这座有别于人们想象中的传统风雨桥的廊桥,就在松阳,名叫石门圩廊桥。近期,它拿下了全球照明设计界的“奥斯卡”——第36届国际照明设计奖的卓越奖。它独有的烟火气在国际舞台上绽放出绚丽的光彩。
保护传统村落,老桥有了新生命
在松阳葱茏的山林之间,传统村落如同星辰般撒落其中。如今,这些传统村落就像散落在山林间的宝藏。在传统与现代文化的碰撞交融中,它们变身成安放乡愁的秘境,成了人们栖息心灵的场所。
松阳县传统村落总数居华东第一、全国第二,是全国首个传统村落保护发展示范县和全国唯一的中国传统村落保护利用试验区、“拯救老屋行动”整县推进试点县。
近几年,依托传统村落保护发展,松阳培育打造出一批“有生命的建筑”。说这些建筑有生命,是因为这些并不是孤零零的建筑,它们根植在松阳这片土地上,汲取了松阳本地文化的养分,又吸纳了现代前沿的元素,最终像土地上开放的美丽花朵,生成了一座座独特而又精美的建筑,令松阳这座曾经古老的县城焕发出新的光彩。
石门圩廊桥,就是其中之一。廊桥非常自然地融入乡村之间,似乎原本就生长在这里,和世代居住在此的人们以及他们的生活,组成了一幅幅江南秘境的画卷。
你更想象不到,这座廊桥的前身,其实是松阳当地一条交通要道上的混凝土大桥。时光追溯到1974年。那个时候,石门和石门圩两个村庄位于松阴溪两岸。“石门圩”原来是石门村的农田,过去村民需过河种田,后来慢慢就在河对岸建房建村,形成新的石门圩村。连接两个村庄的石门大桥当初的设计是一座无筋无肋混凝土双曲拱桥,全长263米。它曾经是松阴溪南北交通的重要通道。不过这座桥的使命,在2010年12月走到了尽头。那一年,斋坛连接线桥建成贯通,此后,石门大桥几乎废弃。因为年久失修且有安全隐患,当地政府一度考虑拆除这座大桥。
事情的转机,发生在2016年。松阴溪景区建设给这座大桥带来了新的可能性。
隨着松阴溪5A级景区打造步伐的推进,石门圩大桥因为其独特的位置再次被国内的建筑专家们关注。松阳当地政府也开始考虑,将这一曾经的“交通要塞”进行整体维修改造,打造成一座木结构廊桥,成为松阴溪5A级景区里的一个休闲驿站。
北京DnA建筑事务所(主创建筑师徐甜甜)接手了这座大桥的改造。他们结合松阴溪沿岸绿道的游览路线,提出了将石门大桥改造为步行廊桥和电瓶车观光游览停留点的策略,并提供了在松阴溪上观其纵深的新视点:这段风景还包括了旁边的千年古堰坝午羊堰,成为松阴溪景区的一个重要景观节点。新建的廊桥也成为两个村庄村口的共享公共空间,如同过去的风雨桥。
石门廊桥采用木装配结构,外形上借用当地建筑形态,和桥头的石门驿站以及村庄的民居形成连贯性。廊桥沿着263米的大桥展开,在桥拱处廊顶开放,呼应大桥的结构韵律,也形成线性路径上光影交错的节奏。桥中央放大的平台,保留了上世纪70年代建桥时的石刻栏板,木装配廊桥在这里断开,空间骤然放大,视野顿显开阔,平台上的行列式绿树继续延续桥拱结构的韵律,也指引到达松阴溪中的开放绿岛。
白天或是夜晚,不一样的烟火气
石门廊桥作为一种指引,将人群引入周边村落,不仅连接起松阴溪两岸村庄,也进一步把人流量带入到邻近的村落里。一公里外,王村的王景纪念堂以及周边的村庄建设,和石门廊桥串点连线:廊桥所处的自然山水与王景纪念堂中的建筑历史叙事,建构起这个区域独特的自然人文景观。
慢慢走过廊桥,你可以看廊桥两侧潺潺的溪水,体会人在画中的感觉。如果你运气好,兴许能够在廊桥上看到中华秋沙鸭。中华秋沙鸭是第三纪冰川期后残存下来的物种,距今已有一千多万年,是比扬子鳄还稀少的国际濒危动物。松阳松阴溪,就是它的稳定越冬点。
这座矗立在松阴溪上的廊桥,也逐渐走向了世界。
就在2018年,“乡村变迁——松阳故事”乡村建筑展在德国柏林开展,展出青年建筑师徐甜甜为松阳设计的乡村建筑,其中就有石门圩廊桥建筑作品,引发了国际上对中国乡村振兴的探讨热情。
如今的石门圩廊桥,一边连着望松街道,一边接着斋坛乡,更像是躺在松阴溪上的睡美人,迎接着来自各地的游客,也串连起了松阳人的传统和未来。
作为一个驿站,它为来到这里的游客们提供休憩设施及茶水服务。
与此同时,它也变身成了一个特别的乡村集市,让松阳的传统和未来在这里发生了碰撞。
可以说,这座廊桥的特别之处就在于,它既具备国际化的美学意义,也同样不失“烟火气”。松阳一直有定时定点举办市集的传统。去年年底开始,松阳开始在石门圩廊桥常态化举办市集活动。这个市集并不简单,涵盖了松阳地方特色农产品、文创、小吃等,承载了松阳当地文化和传统,也充满了创意气息。
如果你是第一次到松阳,走到这样一个集市里,你会感受到最当地的特色,这里也成了游客纷至沓来的旅行目的地。
这座廊桥,成了一个特别的公共空间。曾经的老桥,重新焕发出不一样的生机。
笔者曾经不止一次逛过位于石门圩廊桥的市集。有一次这里举办松阳生态农产品市集,云集了当地各类特色产品,其中不但有产品展示区,也有美食品尝区。快节奏生活带来的疲惫感在这里消解,让人重新找回了生活最初的向往——无论是麦秆扇、编彩带等文创产品,还是高山生态大米、石仓白老酒等。这里不仅有传统文化的魅力,也让渐行渐远的儿时记忆重新回归。
(本文图片:王子凌)
New Covered Bridge in Songyang
By Zhu Yun
Most covered bridges, an architectural phenomenon seen in southern Zhejiang, date back to hundreds of years ago, at least, even though some of them are refurbished versions of their ancient prototypes. Shimenwei Bridge, which is a covered bridge, however, is a brand new affair repurposed and rebuilt in 2016.
The bridge connects Shimen and Shimenwei directly. The bridge is old. “Wei” in the name Shimenwei in Chinese refers usually to farmland encircled by embankment. Villagers in Shimen Villager in Songyang, a rural county in Lishui in the south of Zhejiang, reclaimed a piece of land on the other side of the Songyin River on which the village perches and planted crops there. They needed to cross the river to reach the farmland. Gradually, some villagers moved across the river and built houses just beside the farmland. A new village emerged and it is called Shimenwei. In 1974, a 263-meter-long concrete bridge was erected there to bridge the Songyin River. It was called Shimen Bridge. In December 2010, however, a new highway bridge became operational not very far from the village and the old Shimen Bridge became almost disused. As it was dilapidated, the local government seriously considered the idea of dismantling it.
The dilapidated bridge saw a possibility to come back to life in 2016 when the local government was planning to improve the Songyin River Scenic Zone, a tourism attraction which was scheduled to be upgraded to a 5A status. The government considered including the disused bridge into the new blueprint. DnA Architects, an architectural firm based in Beijing and headed by Xu Tiantian, a young architect of international renown, was commissioned by the county government to explore the possibility of bringing the bridge back to life.
The old structure of the bridge has been remodeled into an infrastructure that supports a pillared wood roof, turning the modern concrete bridge into a brand new lounge walkway in the ancient style. The covered bridge is primarily for pedestrians and motorists. The corridor stretches from the bank on either side and the middle part of the bridge remains uncovered so that this part, enlarged and extended a little bit over the river, serves as a platform for visitors to linger there and enjoy the stunning vistas in the open under the sky.
It is worth mentioning that the lighting system of the bridge, designed by School of Architecture, Tsinghua University and One Lighting Associates (Beijing), was honored with an Award of Excellence on May 28, 2019 in Philadelphia, USA at an award ceremony of the Annual International Association of Lighting Designers. The lighting system honors the past and connects with the new.
The new bridge is more than an effective connection between villages nestled on the either side of the river, easily bringing tourists into ancient villages. It is also a huge tourism attraction. Moreover, if you visit Songyang in the winter and if you are lucky enough, you will probably spot scaly-sided mergansers there. Songyang is a wintering habitat for the endangered species which survived the Tertiary period, a stimespan that occurred from 65 million to 2.58 million years ago.
On March 16, 2018, Rural Move: the Songyang Story was unveiled at Aedes Architecture Forum in Berlin. The exhibition presented what Xu Tiantian and her colleagues did in Songyang. The Shimenwei Bridge was part of the Songyang Story illustrated at the forum. The story touched off a passion among international architects about the significance of rural renaissance and reconstruction.
The old bridge now thrives as a new public space. It serves as a marketplace on weekends. The first market day occurred toward the yearend of 2018. Nowadays, villagers market rural local produce there. Moreover, local businesses also market products there. These products are full regional Songyang characteristics which allow tourists to peep into the cultural wealth and tradition of the rural county.