麦克拉伦谷印象

文Tersina Shieh 编、译 张恬熙

我在麦克拉伦谷的四周时间里，不仅拜访了许多酒庄，还好好地探索了这个产区。

绵延起伏的山丘地势平缓，在这里骑自行车，丝毫不会感到费劲。适合那些希望近距离感受麦克拉伦谷产区，同时也想燃烧一点卡路里的游客。徒步旅行者可以在翁卡帕林加河国家公园曲径通幽的小路上走走，从麦克拉伦谷出发，约15分钟就能到达一处原始海岸，这对于海滩爱好者真是非常完美！怪不得阿德莱德的居民和游客都涌向这个“游乐场”。

麦克拉伦谷产区里约有70个酒庄，令人惊奇的是这些酒庄都挨得很近。大部分酒庄都提供品鉴服务，还有少数酒庄附带餐厅可以现场烹饪美食，这一举措非常受欢迎，麦克斯韦酒庄就是其中之一。我参观过的杰出酒庄有：

贝克尔斯酒庄：这是一家精品酒庄，产量只有1000箱高品质的歌海娜，西拉和歌海娜混酿，以及西拉葡萄酒。酒庄团队由夫妻两人，以及葡萄栽培者托比l贝克和酿酒师弗朗斯l艾曼纽组成。他们证实了15%酒精度的葡萄酒仍然可以保持优雅的高品质。艾曼纽还酿造出了一级园夏布利，使贝克尔斯葡萄酒系列更加完善。

可利乐洛庄园：没有旧世界种种规则的束缚，新世界的酿酒师可以尝试使用不同的葡萄品种，酿造不同风格的葡萄酒。得益于这一自由权，可利乐洛庄园将意大利品种种植在主流的赤霞珠、设拉子和歌海娜旁边。在20世纪80年代中期，当酒庄推出桑娇维塞时，几乎没有人能够说对它的名字。从那时起，可利乐洛庄园就开始将菲亚诺、维蒙蒂诺、黑珍珠、萨格兰蒂诺和尼格马罗引入麦克拉伦谷。庄主马克计划每年尝试一个新的葡萄品种。酒庄的菲亚诺和巴贝拉品质很好，可利乐洛珍藏西拉干红葡萄酒也是如此。酒庄葡萄酒在由西往东葡萄酒业有售（网址：http://emw-wines.com/）。

奥利弗特朗歌葡萄园：这是一座家族酒庄，如今已历经五代人。他们对于非主流葡萄品种也是非常热情。除了意大利葡萄品种以外，这个家族还生产门西亚桃红葡萄酒（原产西班牙），还有令人赞扬的丹魄和萨格兰蒂诺。

维舞酒庄：他乡遇故知并发现彼此有相同之处，总是一件让人感到快乐的事。维舞酒庄的庄主安德鲁l伍德就是这样的人，我们都曾在普兰普顿学院学习葡萄酒酿造。安德鲁之所以会在麦克拉伦谷定居，是因为他沉醉于澳大利亚的美酒。但他所酿造的却不是典型的充满果酱味的葡萄酒，而是更加精致、更有结构感的葡萄酒。酒庄的歌海娜、蒙特普齐亚诺和丹魄都令人印象深刻。安德鲁的妻子经营着一家名为“甘美红食”的咖啡馆，是当地人休闲的好去处。

亚加拉酒庄：这是杰克逊家族的一部分，亚加拉从事生物动力栽培法，特别擅长于栽种南罗纳河品种，葡萄大多分布于灌木丛中种植，葡萄品种包括设拉子、歌海娜、穆尔韦德、神索、瑚珊和维欧尼。酒庄的“罗斯美人葡萄酒”就是使用100%的瑚珊在蛋形的水泥发酵器中部分发酵160天，有很好的结构感和矿物味。“铁心设拉子”和“高砂歌海娜”酒体有深度又有内涵。

把阿德莱德作为中转站，前往麦克拉伦谷和附近阿德莱德山产区很方便。从阿德莱德的市中心出发，仅需20分钟时间就能到达奔富的旧址—奔富玛吉尔庄园。在那里，你可以品尝奔富的明星酒款葛兰许，甚至还可以在酒庄的餐厅里享受美酒，那是一间现代化餐厅，提供美味佳肴。我设法抓住了首席酿酒师皮特l加戈，瞥见了他们刚刚推出但已经售罄的g3。遗憾的是，当时无法进行品鉴，但皮特透露了他的计划，但我必须要保守秘密—敬请关注！

如果你的时间充裕，一定要去克莱尔谷，从阿德莱德出发3个小时车程可以到达，在那里有澳大利亚最好喝的雷司令！

My four weeks in McLaren Vale not only allowed me to visit other wineries, but also to explore the region.

The rolling hills are gentle enough for not-too-strenuous cycling,ideal for those who want to experience the region up close and at the same time, burn off a few calories. Hikers can wander around the numerous tracks in Onkaparinga River National Park and the pristine coast only 15 minutes from McLaren Vale is just perfect for beach lovers. No wonder both residents and visitors of Adelaide flock to this playground.

There are around 70 wineries in the region and they are surprisingly close together. Most offer cellar door tastings and a few, including Maxwell, have on-site restaurants that are extremely popular. The outstanding wineries I visited were:

Bekkers Wine: A boutique winery making only 1,000 cases of fine Grenache, Syrah Grenache and Syrah by husband and wife team,Toby Bekkers the viticulturist and French Emmanuelle the winemaker.They prove that wine at 15% alcohol can be elegant and with finese.Emma also makes a Chablis Premier Cru to complement the Bekkers range.

Coriole Vineyards: Bound by no rules of the Old World, New World winemakers can experiment different varieties and style of wine. Coriole takes full advantage of this freedom by planting Italian varieties alongside the mainstream Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Grenache. When they released its Sangiovese in mid 1980s,hardly anyone could pronounced the name. Since then, the winery has introduced Fiano, Vermentino, Nero d’Avola, Sagrantino and Negroamaro to McLaren Vale. Owner Mark plans to experiment with a new variety every year. Their Fiano and Barbera are outstanding, and so is the Lloyd Reserve Shiraz. Their wines are available at East Meets West Fine Wines

Oliver s Taranga Vineyards: Fifth generation family-run estate that is equally enthusiastic with non mainstream grape varieties. In addition to Italian varieties, the family also produces a Mencia Rosé(Spain), as well as thumbs-up Tempranillo and Sagrantino.

Waywood Wine: It’s always nice to meet someone in a faraway land and found out we are connected. Andrew Wood, owner of Waywood Wine is one such person as we both learned winemaking at Plumpton College. What attracted Andrew to settle down in McLaren Vale was his fondness of big Australian wine but what he actually made is not the typical jammy wine, but more refined and textural.The Grenache, Montepulciano and Tempranillo were impressive.Andrew’s wife runs the charming Luscious Red Food, a relaxed café on site.

Yangarra Estate Vineyard: Part of the Jackson Family, Yangarra practises biodynamic viticulture and specialises in Southern Rhone varieties mainly in bush vines including Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvèdre,Cinsault, Rousanne and Viognier. Their Roux Beaurte, a 100%Rousanne partly fermented in cement egg for 160 days has beautiful texture and minerality. The Ironheart Shiraz and High Sands Grenache are restrained with depth.

It is convenient to use Adelaide as a base to visit McLaren Vale and the nearby Adelaide Hills wine region. And when you are in Adelaide, Penfolds Magill Estate, the original home of Penfolds, is just 20 minutes from city centre. Drop by to taste their icon wine Grange,and even better, enjoy the wine at their Kitchen, a modern eatery that serves delicious food. I managed to catch up with chief winemaker Peter Gago and had a glimpse of their new but sold out creation g3.Unfortunately there was not tasting but Peter made it up by disclosing his future plan that I have to keep secret - watch this space!

If you have more than a few days to spare, make sure to drive up to Clare Valley, about 3 hours from Adelaide, for some of the best Australian Rieslings.