沙漠腹地的绿洲

◇ 文图|本刊记者 史宗伟

沙漠腹地的绿洲

◇ 文图|本刊记者 史宗伟

“世世传唱的歌谣倾诉着衷肠，飞扬神圣的苏力德守望着故乡，巍巍耸立的敖包呼热胡寄托着向往，根固文明的萨拉乌素河静静流淌……”

歌声将我们带到了沙漠腹地，内蒙古鄂尔多斯市乌审旗。

乌审旗位于内蒙古自治区鄂尔多斯市西南部，地处毛乌素沙地腹部，毗邻陕西省榆林市，这里文化资源丰富而厚重，是五千年中华文明的缩影。

2017年7月6日，33家国内知名画报摄影记者走进古老而神奇的乌审旗，用3天时间亲历了沙漠腹地草原独特的人文景象。

“The traditional songs reveal people’s innermost feelings,the flying sacred Sulide keeps watching the hometown,the erecting Aobao Hurehu expresses people’s longing for happy life and the Salawusu River carrying civilizations fl ows quietly...”

Songs bring us back to the hinterland of desert --Wushenqi,Ordos City,Inner Mongolia.

Wushenqi is located in the southwest of Ordos City in Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region.It is in the hinter-land of Mu Us Desert,adjoining Yulin,Shaanxi Province.It bears rich historical and cultural heritage,being the epitome of five thousand years of Chinese civilization.

From July 6 2017,33 photographersfrom China’s Pictorial Association,spent three days there where they enjoyed the unique human landscape of the grassland in the hinterland of desert.

千里敖包来相会

Aobao brings people together

二十世纪五十年代，一首《敖包相会》传遍大江南北，敖包一度是爱情的象征。敖包，又称“鄂博”“堆子”，形态各异，种类繁多。在蒙古族人心中，敖包象征神在其位，世袭传颂。牧民们赞美家乡，歌颂敖包，无论游子思乡，抑或爱恋情炽都诉诸于敖包。

2006年，被确定为“中国•蒙古族敖包文化之乡”。其中著名的“英雄敖包”胡热呼敖包据说与成吉思汗出征西夏有关。流传至今的胡热呼祷词，仍传递着人们对英雄的怀念。

乌审旗境内有170多座敖包，涵盖了许多形制。

每年农历五月十三日，牧民们着新衣、跨骏马，聚集在敖包前，摆全羊、献奶食，法号长鸣，鼓钹大作，三拜九叩，口念颂词，绕包三圈，敬献哈达，招福祈佑。

In the 1950s,the song Meeting at the Yurt became popular all over the world,making Aobaothe symbol of love.Aobao or “Ebo”,“Duizi”has various shapes and types.Mongolians regard Aobao as a symbol of God eulogized by every generation.Nomads praise their hometown and Aobao.Wanderers’homesickness and deep feelings between lovers are both connected with Aobao.

There are over 170 Aobaos of various shapes in Wushenqi,thus naming Wushenqi“the home of Aobao civilization in China”in 2006.It’s said that the wellknown HurehuAobao is related to the story of Genghis Khan’s west conquest and the traditional Hurehu prayers are still delivering people’s love for heroes.

On May 13th of Chinese Lunar Calendar,nomads will put on new clothes,mount the fine horses and gather in front of Aobao.With cooked whole lamb and dairy productsserved,there will be continuing and exciting sounds of Tibetan horn,drums and cymbals,over which people walk around the Aobao three times,take bows and kowtows and pray,and also offer Hada,so as to pray for good luck and blessings.

诗书歌舞独贵龙

Books,poetry,songs,dances and Duguilang

鄂尔多斯被称为“歌海舞乡”，乌审旗则是“歌海中的歌海，舞乡中的舞乡”。鄂尔多斯现存1300多首短调民歌中，有900多首出自乌审旗。牧民们自豪地说：“会走路,就会跳舞。会说话，就会唱歌。”

如果说音乐是乌审人的生活，诗歌则是乌审人的血脉。

青灯下，萨冈彻臣完成了传世名著《蒙古源流》；牧野中，乡土诗人贺希格巴图挥笔写就《可贵的独贵龙》……乌审旗的牧民们始终保留着写诗的习惯。

贺希格巴图曾在诗中盛赞反帝反封建的“独贵龙”运动，1962年，八一电影制片厂以此为蓝本拍成电影《鄂尔多斯风暴》，鄂尔多斯从此为世人熟知。如今，乌审人民赋予了“独贵龙”新的内涵。

Ordos is known as “home of many dances and songs”,while Wushenqi is “the home of most dances and songs in Ordos”.There exist more than 1,300 shorttune folk songs of Ordos,over 900 of which were created in Wushenqi.Nomadsborn in Wushen pride thatif onlythey can walk,they dance well,and if only they can speak,they sing well.

With music said to be the life of people in Wushenqi,poetry would be their vein that carries blood.

SagangChe-Chen finished his famous work ErdeniinTobchi,and HexigeBatu,a countryside poet,completed Valuable Duguilang...Nomads of Wushen keep the habit of writing poets all the time.

In the work of HexigeBatu,great tributes was paid to the anti-imperialism and feudalismcampaign Duguilang.In 1962,Bayi Film Studio shot the movie Storm over Ordos,taking the poem as the blueprint,which made Ordos better known overthe world.Today,people in Wushen have added new meanings to “Duguilang”.

神采飞扬苏力德

Sulides standing in high spirit

乌审旗有9291户蒙古族家户，其中93%以上院落门前都立着苏力德。苏力德，原意精神之旗，传说是长生天赐予成吉思汗的神物，后演变为神采飞扬、朝气蓬勃之意等，是蒙古族人积极向上的精神动力。

据记载，1206年，成吉思汗统一蒙古各部，在鄂嫩河畔竖起了查干苏力德——蒙古大汗国国旗。直至公元1634年，查干苏力德一直受黄金家族和草原毡帐百姓的供奉。北元末代皇帝林丹汗逝世，其夫人和儿子投降金国，连同传国玉玺、查干苏力德一同押往盛京(今沈阳)。途经乌审草原时，负责保护查干苏力德的察哈尔亲兵不愿同往，隐匿在荒草中，遂使查干苏力德留在了乌审旗，几经沉浮，直到今天。

每天晨起，牧民点桑，吟诵《伊金桑》，祈祷新的一天神清气爽、奋发努力，勤俭持家，一切顺利。围绕苏力德祭祀文化，乌审旗拥有大量的神话、传说、歌谣、民间故事，祝赞词和礼仪、祭祀等民俗，是当之无愧的“中国苏力德文化之乡”。

Over 93% of 9,291 Mongolian families living in Wushenqi erect Sulides at their doors.The original meaning of Sulidewas the flag of spirit,which was sacred and given to Genghis Khan by MongkeTangri (the supreme god regarded by Mongolians).Afterwards,it represents vigor and high spirits,and becomes Mongolians’spiritual motivator to pursue better life.

It was recorded that Genghis Khan united all the Mongolian clans in 1206,and then erected the national flag of the Mongols,ChaganSulide,by Enen River.The flag had been worshiped by “golden family”(the Borjigin) and the average people until 1634.AfterLindan Khanthe last emperor of the Northern Yuan Dynasty died,his wife and son surrendered to Jin Kingdom.They were escorted to Shengjing (today’s Shenyang),and so were ChaganSulide and imperial seal of the Mongols; when they arrived at Wushen grassland,Chaha’er soldier was reluctant to continue the journey,so he hid in the dense weeds.Thus ChaganSulide was left in Wushenqi,and it still remains here despite some changes.

Every morning the nomads light some folium mori and sing Yijinsang (Eulogy to Genghis Khan),praying for brightness,diligence,shrift and smoothness.Wushenqipossessesnumerous legends,tales,ballads,stories,eulogies,along with customs like rites and sacrifices centered on Sulide culture,so it fully deserves the title of “China’s home of Sulide culture”.

Oasis in the Hinterland of Desert

Article | Pictures Shi Zongwei