凝聚人心的鞑靼美食

By Dave McGuire

Today， were looking for a European country with a small Tatar presence， and now a Tatar restaurant. Tatars， by the way， are Turkic Muslims， and that restaurant is in northeast Poland.

Dave McGuire recently paid a visit to the restaurant chef in the village of Kruszyniany.

Dave： Thats Jenata Bogdanovic in the kitchen of her restaurant. Its in a restored family farmhouse in a tiny village about a mile from the border with Belarus.

今天，我们来找一个有着少量鞑靼人口，如今又有了一家鞑靼餐厅的欧洲国家。顺便说一句，鞑靼人是突厥人中的一支，他们是穆斯林教徒，而那家餐厅位于波兰的东北部。

戴夫·麦圭尔最近到克鲁斯查涅尼村拜访了这家餐厅的主厨。

戴夫：詹纳塔·博格达诺维奇正在她餐厅的厨房里。这个小村庄坐落在离波兰与白俄罗斯接壤边界线一英里（约1.61公里）处，餐厅就在村里的一幢经过整修的农舍里。

The smell of onion is strong when you enter the kitchen. Jenatas preparing dishes that youd normally only find in a Tatar home. Jenata entered local cooking contests， and she won with a cuisine thats unfamiliar to most Poles. Polish food critics flocked her way and the tourists followed， so Jenata opened a Tatar restaurant， the first in the country， in 2003.

Jenata explains， the central theme of Tatar cuisine is meat， lots of meat； 1）mutton， 2）venison and especially beef. What you wont find here is pork， because Tatars are Muslim. All that meat is packaged in pastry. These are the dishes youd expect from nomadic horsemen. Meat inside dough： easy to carry and eat on the go.

Today Jenata is making pyzy and kuldunai. Pyzy look a bit like small footballs. Theyre dumplings filled with heavily spiced ground meat surrounded by a dough made with raw and cooked potato. She boils them in a beef broth.

一进入厨房，浓烈的洋葱味扑鼻而来。詹纳塔正在烹饪的是你只会在鞑靼人家才能看到的家常菜。詹纳塔曾经参加了当地的烹饪大赛，她以一道大多数波兰人都不熟悉的菜在比赛中获胜。波兰的美食评论家蜂拥而至，她也因此吸引了不少游客。于是，詹纳塔在2003年创办了波兰的首家鞑靼餐厅。

詹纳塔解释说，鞑靼美食的主题就是肉，他们吃大量的肉：羊肉、鹿肉，特别是牛肉。他们的食谱里惟独缺猪肉，因为鞑靼人是穆斯林教徒。鞑靼人吃肉的方式是把它们放在面团里。这正是游牧民族吃的方式：用面团包着肉，因为这样方便携带，可以边走边吃。

今天，詹纳塔做的是皮兹和卡尔敦纳这两道菜。皮兹的样子有点像个小小的足球，那就是汤团里填满了重口味的肉沫和生熟混杂的土豆团。她把皮兹放进了牛肉汤里煮。

文化交流站

鞑靼是古代中原人对北部国界线境外的各游牧民族的统称。鞑靼民族是突厥人的一支，欧洲人所说的“鞑靼人”分广义和狭义两个称谓，广义是俄国境内使用突厥语各族的统称，狭义鞑靼则指鞑靼族。而“鞑靼”一词起源于7世纪到9世纪时在贝加尔湖东南地区游牧的蒙古部落。今天，全世界共有57支不同的鞑靼人，主要分布于中亚、阿富汗、俄罗斯的喀山、乌克兰的克里米亚和欧洲（波兰、白俄罗斯、立陶宛、芬兰）各地。

Kuldunai are a variation on the same theme， but here the meat is put into a purse of pastry dough gathered up like a closed tulip. Jenata says kuldunai is one of her favorite dishes， because her most treasured family memories are of sitting around the kitchen table with her mom and her sisters preparing the food. It was a time to be together， to talk， and a chance to hear her moms stories about the past.

But its not all meat and potatoes. Butter， honey， and flour go into a pot. These are the ingredients for 3）halvah， a traditional Islamic treat. Jenatas enlisted some help for the final stages. The halvahs so thick， two women are stirring together， throwing all their weight into it. Its a dish that takes hours of stirring. The halvah is sweet， but not too sweet， rich and velvety and a little gooey as it cools. This is definitely the kind of food that draws people together. And that kind of community is critical to keep the Polish Tatars aware of their culture. Therere only about 3，000 of them left in the country. Jenata wants her restaurant to be a haven for Tatars. She says Tatar youth around the world can come to her like an aunt to learn about themselves and their history， and find a place to belong.

卡尔敦纳与皮兹区别不大，但这道菜是把肉放在了一个面袋里，这个面袋看起来像一朵合上了口的郁金香。詹纳塔说这是她最喜爱的菜肴之一，因为她最为珍惜的家庭记忆就是与母亲和姐妹们围坐在厨房的桌边，一起准备食物。那是与家人在一起的时间，大家一起交谈，听母亲讲述她过去的事。

但他们的食物并不都是肉与土豆。把奶油、蜂蜜和面粉放进锅里，这些是哈尔瓦酥糖的原材料，那是伊斯兰食谱中的一款传统点心。詹纳塔在制作这款点心的最后阶段找了一些人来帮忙。哈尔瓦酥糖太粘稠了，两个妇女一起搅拌，用尽了全身的力气。这道甜点光是搅拌就要花上好几个小时。哈尔瓦酥糖是甜的，但不会太甜，而是口感醇厚，丝滑，凉了之后有点粘粘的。这确实是那种能够把人都召集在一起的食物，而要让波兰的鞑靼人时刻意识到自己的文化背景，这种把社区里的鞑靼人聚集到一起的方式是非常重要的。在波兰，鞑靼人口只有三千左右。詹纳塔希望自己的餐厅能成为鞑靼人的港湾。她说，世界上年轻的鞑靼人都可以到她这儿来，把她看成是自家的大婶，向她了解鞑靼人的文化和历史，找到一个属于自己的地方。

翻译：旭文