弗里达·贾娜妮：古驰的顶梁柱

By Conny Czymoch

Seeing and being seen is all part of the show， even before the real show gets underway. Fans and fellow designers cant wait to see Frida Gianninis new collection. Guccis 1）catwalk show is a highlight of Milan Fashion Week.

Woman 1： Gucci？ Sexy.

Man 1： I am really excited to see Fridas work and， yeah， I love her.

Giannini joined the 2）long-established 3）Florentine label in 2002. She says she originally wanted to be a rock star， and this influenced her style.

观赏和被观赏是节目的全部，即使真正的表演还未开始。支持者和设计师同行都急不可待地想看弗里达·贾娜妮的新系列。古驰的时装表演是米兰时装周的高潮之一。女性1：古驰？性感。男性1：我很期待弗里达的作品，我很喜欢她。

贾娜妮于2002年加入这历史悠久的佛罗伦萨品牌。她说原本想做摇滚歌星，这志愿影响了她的风格。

Giannini： For example， in the 4）silhouette， which is always very 5）skinny and very 6）rock and roll in a way， in the attitude of the guys， in the styling， in the outfits， in the use of the 7）accessories， because to me， they really complete the outfits very well. And then again， for example， in the music of the fashion show， because there is always this soul of rock and roll which I think is always present in every collection.

Giannins personal style can be seen everywhere， in the most recent menswear collection， and the autumn/winter womenswear collection now on show in Milan. The Gucci logo is 8）discreet， in accordance with Gianninis more subtle approach. But the glamour remains.

Giannini： I think that “glamour” is a word that is a key word for Gucci， and I think its in the DNA of Gucci， but I think that glamour and quality together now， they have to...to come together， to play together.

Guccis reputation began with its elegant bags. Since the middle of the last century， the rich and famous all over the world have favoured the Italian brand. In the 1990s， Gucci also became famous for 9）ready-to-wear fashion. In 2005， Rome-born Giannini took over. Her first collection featured a feminine， romantic look. Some critics dismissed it as 10）lacklustre and 11）banal， but customers loved it.

Giannini： When you start to design a collection， when you start to project a collection， you try always to abstract more than possible yourself but what you are doing. But of course at the end there is much…a lot of your personality that goes in the collection. So maybe for the woman I can recognize more myself in some outfits or for example， in the look of the hair of the models.

Gucci clothes today are a combination of 12）extravagant materials and wearable designs.

Man 2： （voiceover） These sexy 13）vamps， who get out of 14）limousines， in shoes that arent really wearable. Thats changed. I think thats partly because， as a woman， Frida Giannini knows what women wear. Its still very sexy， but not in such a glaring， obvious way.

贾娜妮：比如说，线条方面，一向很纤瘦且有很重的摇滚味道。还有姿态、风格、衣服和配饰的运用。因为在我看来，这些搭配起来才能很好地表现全身的装扮。其次，说到时装表演用的音乐，在每一个系列里面，都有摇滚乐的灵魂。

贾娜妮的个人风格无处不在，在最近的男装系列，以及在米兰展出的秋冬女装都见得到。古驰的标志并不显眼，这符合贾娜妮的含蓄作风，不过她的系列魅力依旧。

贾娜妮：我觉得，对古驰而言，“魅力”是一个很重要的特点，是古驰与生俱来的。不过我认为要华丽和品质并重，两者必须融合。

古驰以高贵的手袋打响品牌。自上世纪中期以来，全世界的富豪与名人都钟爱这个意大利品牌。而在上世纪90年代，古驰的时尚成衣也很出名。2005年，在罗马出生的贾娜妮接班。她的第一个系列充满女性美和浪漫情调。有人批评说该系列不但不吸引人而且很平凡，可是顾客喜欢极了。

贾娜妮：开始构思和设计一个系列的时候，要尽量抽离自己，而聚焦于你的系列。不过到了最后，总会有大量个人风格融入作品里，也许我能在我的女装里面，或在模特儿的发型里见到自己。

古驰今日的衣服用料名贵，款式适宜穿着。

男性2：（画外音）性感美女穿着难以走路的鞋子，从豪华轿车上走下来，那时代已过去。我认为由于贾娜妮身为女性，她很清楚女性会穿什么。她的系列仍很性感，不过不会太刺眼且夸张。

Feminine， yet subtle. Thats how most critics describe the collections of Frida Giannini.

Man 3： （via translator） I think its a trend for a designer， who sees herself as an image， to send that onto the catwalk， creating a reality. I think this will be the next big thing. In Italy， shes doing that more than any other woman.

Giannini prefers to remain in the background and has no desire to be worshipped. She has now developed strategies to cope with the immense pressure.

Giannini： I can combine， now Im OK. I was more frustrated in the beginning， because I had to organize my personal life， but now I can do it...I have so many things to do. I love reading， I love cooking， I love to play with my dogs， I love to stay with my family and my dear friends， so I have chance， I still have chance to do things like that. Im not so stressed， because I love my job.

She may not be considered a 15）trendsetter， but Giannini has brought the company success. Despite the economic downturn， Guccis sales are up.

娇柔，却含蓄，这是大部分评论给其系列下的评语。

男性3：（通过翻译）这是新趋势，设计师把自己的形象，投射到时装天桥上，使之变成现实。我相信这是下一个新潮流。在意大利，她是这方面的代表女性。

贾娜妮喜欢留在幕后，无意做偶像，她现已有方法应付沉重的压力。

贾娜妮：我现在懂得平衡，我状态不错。起初苦恼很多，我要安排我的个人生活，现在已能应付。我有很多事情要做，我喜欢阅读和烹饪，喜欢跟我的狗狗玩耍，喜欢跟家人和好朋友待在一起。我仍有机会做这些事情，我不觉得压力很大，因为我喜欢我的工作。

她也许不是潮流的开造者，不过她为公司带来了成功。在经济不景气的情况下，古驰的生意亦蒸蒸日上。

翻译：豆丁