琶洲口岸船行记

黄维中

2023年5月，在南方的潮湿和温热中，琶洲港澳口岸终于正式投入运营。尝新的人们满怀期待地来到这个广州城区唯一的水上跨境口岸，带着兴奋和好奇，登上“海珠湾”号高速客船，开启两个半小时的旅程。

In May 2023， beneath the sultry， humid sky of South China， the PazhouFerry Terminal nally commenced its operations. Curious adventurers， eagerfor a novel experience， flocked to this unique waterway border crossing inGuangzhou. Filled with excitement and anticipation， we boarded the “HaiZhu Wan” high-speed passenger boat， embarking on a two-and-a-half-hourvoyage.

船緩缓离岸，朝江心驶去。转头西望，猎德大桥跨越两岸，桥身上珠江之贝的造型，如一张精巧的名片，向世界传递出千年商都的独特气质。

As the boat slowly pulled away from the shore， cruising toward the heartof the river， we saw the Liede Bridge stretching across the river while glancingto the west. e tower of the bridge， designed to resemble a pearl clam of thePearl River， served as a distinctive calling card， showcasing the unique allureof this ancient commercial city to the world.

转眼间，“海珠湾”号就开到了琶洲大桥，那一刻，好像长跑运动员站在了起跑线上。琶洲大桥那极具现代都市感的V型支撑钢构桥墩，既似巨大的发令枪，向运动员发出起跑的信号，又如干净利落的胜利手势，把起航的喜悦形象地传递给乘客。

In the blink of an eye， the boat reached the PazhouBridge， and it felt as if we passengers were starting a longdistancerace. e sleek V-shaped steel supports of the bridgeresembled colossal starting pistols， signaling the beginning ofour journey. ey also conveyed a sense of pristine triumph，echoing the joy of setting sail.

穿桥而过，只见一座八角形古楼耸立在珠江南岸，那便是琶洲塔了。这风水之塔，历经四个多世纪，依然享有“琶洲砥柱”的美誉，凝视着珠江水道上的风云变幻，见证着“海上丝路”的前世今生。

As the boat crossed the bridge， there was an ancientoctagonal tower rising on the southern bank of the PearlRiver. That was the Pazhou Pagoda. Constructed forFengshui purposes， this venerable structure has graced thisspot for over four centuries， earning itself the title of the“Pillar of Pazhou”. It stands sentinel， observing the evershi ing winds and tides of the Pearl River， bearing witness tothe rich history of the “Maritime Silk Road.”

顺江而行，岸上林立的高楼大厦在我们的视野中掠过，江面上出现了各种类型的船只。白鹭伫立在江心的浮标上，与之分享飞翔的畅快和自由。

Continuing downstream， we were treated toa cityscape dominated by towering skyscraperslining the banks. An array of boats glided acrossthe water’s surface， while egrets perched on buoysin the river’s midst， sharing the exuberance andfreedom of ight with the vessels below.

船行至东圃特大桥，这是珠江前航道的最东边了。此后，在近70海里的航程内，可以看见一座座气势如虹的桥梁，仿佛航行在壮阔画卷之中。

As the boat sailed toward the Dongpu Bridge，we found ourselves at the easternmost pointof the Pearl River channel. From there， over ajourney of nearly 70 nautical miles， we could seea series of majestic bridges， as if sailing through asplendid painting.

大蚝沙岛上，黄埔大桥像巨龙凌空飞跃。木结构门形塔，展示着南中国海上门户的刚劲挺拔，也表达了改革开放南大门的东西相济、今古融通。

On Dahaosha Island， the Huangpu Bridge reachedskyward like a soaring dragon. Its wooden-structured，gate-shaped towers embodied the strength and graceof the southern gateway to the South China Sea，symbolizing the harmonious coexistence of the Eastand the West， and the past and present during the eraof reform and opening up.

長洲岛畔，扯旗山下，黄埔军港停泊着驱逐舰、医疗船、军辅船，水面上行驶着海警、海监、渔政、水警的专用船只。这片“钢铁森林”，是国家得以长久安宁与和平的坚定护卫。

Along the shores of Changzhou Island， beneaththe shadow of Cheqi Mountain， the Huangpu NavalPort was docked with destroyers， medical ships， andauxiliary vessels. e waters were teeming with patrolboats from the coast guard， maritime surveillance，fishery administration， and water police. This “steelforest” stands as a resolute guardian， ensuring China’senduring peace and security.

“海珠湾”号驶进了狮子洋。东岸，是广州港的黄埔和新沙港区，连绵数里，码头、巨轮、厂房仓库云集，吊臂高挺，场面壮阔。2020年，这里以货物吞吐量6.36亿吨成为了全球排名第四的世界级大港。西岸，是番禺国家级沿海渔港经济区，古朴的莲花塔耸立在莲花山上，金色的观音像端立于千佛阁前，岛上种植着芭蕉等作物，湿地里生长着茂盛的红树林。如果说，东岸是现代工业文明的“交响曲”，歌唱着速度和力量；那西岸就是在弹奏珠三角人文历史和桑基农业的“南音”（中国现存最古老的乐种之一），歌唱着温暖与柔情。

The “Hai Zhu Wan” boat led us into the ShiziyangEstuary. On the eastern shore of the ocean are theHuangpu and Xinsha Port areas of Guangzhou Port，stretching for miles with a vibrant scene of docks，colossal vessels， factories， warehouses， and toweringcranes. In 2020， this place ranked fourth globally incargo throughput， handling a staggering 6.36 billion tons，cementing its status as a world-class major port. On thewestern shore lies the national-level Panyu Fishing PortEconomic Zone， where a quaint Lianhua Pagoda proudlygraces Lianhua Mountain， and a golden statue of Guanyinadorns the Qianfo Temple. The island is cultivated withcrops like bananas， while lush mangroves ourish in thewetlands. If one were to describe the eastern shore as a“symphony” of modern industrial civilization， echoingthe rhythms of speed and power， then the western shoreresembles “Nanyin” （one of the oldest existing musicgenres in China）， playing the cultural history of the PearlRiver Delta and traditional farming， and singing melodiesof warmth and tenderness.

江面越发开阔，南沙大桥已在眼前。它化身狮子洋上巨大的“竖琴”，桥身飞卧百米江空，门形双塔高耸入云，悬索宛若琴弦轻挂桥面，日夜不停地弹奏着华丽的乐音。除了浪漫与美感，这座大桥还连接起广州南沙与东莞沙田，最高日通车量达20万辆，是全球最繁忙的大桥之一。

As we continued our journey， the rivergradually broadened， revealing the magnificentNansha Bridge. It stood tall and proud， resemblinga colossal harp placed upon the Shiziyang Estuary.Its deck spanned the river over a hundred meterswide， while its twin towers reached for the sky. e suspension cables dangled like the strings ofthe harp， creating enchanting melodies day andnight. Beyond its romantic and artistic charm，the bridge serves as a vital link connectingNansha District in Guangzhou to Shatian Townin Dongguan. It handles a daily tra c volume ofup to 200，000 vehicles， ranking among the world’sbusiest bridges.

狮子洋过后，便见“虎门大桥”横跨在入海口了。前国家主席江泽民题写的红色大字，醒目地刻印在门形塔上，吸引着过往人们的眼球。正是这片水域，书写了太多中华民族近代史的懦弱与屈辱，也聚集了太多仁人志士的热血与忠魂，令人感慨万千！

As we sailed past the Shiziyang Estuary， wereached the Humen Pearl River Bridge， whichguards the entrance to the sea. Prominentlyengraved on its gate-shaped towers were bold redcharacters 虎门大桥 handwritten by former ChinesePresident Jiang Zemin， catching the eye of all whopassed by. This stretch of water bears witness tomuch of China’s modern history， including itsvulnerabilities and humiliations. It also served asthe gathering place of numerous noble souls andpatriots， evoking a range of emotions.

驶过广州海上新地标——广州南沙国际邮轮母港和南沙客运港，再顺流南下，过了龙穴岛，江面豁然开朗，进入伶仃洋了。

Continuing our journey， we encounteredtwo prominent additions to Guangzhou’sseascape： the Nansha International Cruise HomePort and the Nansha Passenger Port. Sailingsouthward with the current， we passed LongxueIsland， where the river suddenly widened， andwe entered the expansive Lingdingyang Bay.

船行近一小时，数不清的平台、吊臂、工程船、大型机械，以及深中通道（又称“深中大桥”）海上施工大工场构建组合成一部科幻大片，让人叹为观止，更让人振奋不已。这由无数中国工程师和建设者用智慧魄力、万千中国普通劳动者用勤奋勇毅共同创造的历史将不朽于天地。、

A er roughly an hour of sailing， a mesmerizingmaritime landscape unfolded before us. Endlessplatforms， cranes， engineering vessels， massivemachinery， and the ongoing construction ofthe Shenzhen-Zhongshan Link （also known asthe Shenzhen-Zhongshan Bridge） combined tocreate a futuristic spectacle that le us in awe andexhilaration. is monumental feat， a collaborativeeffort by numerous Chinese engineers， builders，and construction workers， will undoubtedly etch itsname into the annals of history.

伶仃洋像一只巨大的喇叭，将珠江水导向南中国海。在一望无际的碧涛上，船速越来越快。视线投向远方，海天交界处，竟是港珠澳大桥飘逸的身姿。未及遥想，船已东向驶入香港水域。青马大桥、汀九桥依次展露雄姿，前方便是终点站——中港城。

Lingdingyang Bay spreads out like a colossaltrumpet， guiding the flow of the Pearl River intothe South China Sea. As our boat cut through thewaves with increasing swiftness， I found myselfgazing into the horizon where the sea and skyconverged， revealing the graceful silhouette of theHong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge. In what feltlike the blink of an eye， our boat charted a courseeastward， entering the waters of Hong Kong. TheTsing Ma Bridge and the Ting Kau Bridge thenunveiled themselves one after the other， markingthe arrival of our destination — Zhonggang City.

几天后，再次回到中港城，搭乘返程的“海珠湖”号。溯流而上，从海到江，从香港经深圳、中山、东莞，回到广州，当“小蛮腰”（即广州塔）、猎德大桥、东西二塔又在眼前时，琶洲港便到了。

A few days later， people found themselvesback in Zhonggang City， ready to embark on the“Hai Zhu Hu” boat for the return journey. istime， we would navigate in reverse， travelingfrom the sea to the river， passing throughHong Kong， Shenzhen， Zhongshan， Dongguan，and ultimately returning to Guangzhou. Asthe Canton Tower nicknamed Xiaomanyao（slim waist）， the Liede Bridge， and the eastand west towers [the Guangzhou InternationalFinance Centre （west） and the Chow Tai Fook（Guangzhou） Center （east）] gradually appearedon the horizon， Pazhou Port was close at hand.

收藏起美好的記忆，带着满满的收获，登船上岸，回头道一声：“ 琶洲口岸，下回见！”

Carrying fond memories and a heart fullof experiences， people disembarked from theboat. Turning back to the port， we could bidit farewell with a smile， saying， “Pazhou Port，until we meet again！”