从宋韵华章到宋韵时尚

文/沈听雨 姜晓蓉

交响音画《宋韵·华章》第一乐章《雅韵》。董旭明/摄Artists perform during the symphony orchestra show Song Culture: Splendid Music. Photo by Dong Xuming.

千年宋韵，生机焕发。浙江“宋韵文化传世工程”实施一年来，宋之韵味正活化为可知可感的重要文化标识，润泽着浙江人的精神面貌。11月18日，2022宋韵文化节开幕，以“宋韵今辉”为主题，联动杭州、温州、绍兴、衢州、台州等地共同举办。从绘画、音乐到服装、阅读等，我们聚焦本届宋韵文化节上的“宋元素”，对话专家学者，探寻千年宋韵在新时代的发展路径。

从音符中，沉浸式感受千年宋韵

音乐是世界共通的语言。11月20日晚，一场关于“宋韵”的美学视听盛宴在浙江音乐学院大剧院拉开大幕。

《宋韵 · 华章》，是国内首部以宋韵主题创作的大型民族交响音乐作品。它重新挖掘整合了宋画、宋词、宋乐、宋学等最具代表性的宋代文化元素，分为序曲《宋韵—我欲乘风归去》、第一乐章 《雅韵》、第二乐章 《神韵》、第三乐章 《风韵》、第四乐章 《意韵》、尾声 《华章—胜却人间无数》等6个乐章，从音乐的角度对“宋韵”进行深度解读和全新诠释。

演出由浙江省委宣传部、浙江省文旅厅、浙江省文联作为指导单位，浙江音乐学院、浙江省音乐家协会主办。值得一提的是，《宋韵 · 华章》从创作到演绎，均由浙江音乐学院200多位师生担纲。

宋代，音乐文化走向繁荣。但这场演出，并不仅限于音乐本身。演出总负责人、浙江音乐学院院长王瑞说：“仔细看演出的名称《宋韵 · 华章》，这中间还有一个点，其实就是为了彰显两种意思—‘宋韵’，是要挖掘优秀的传统文化；‘华章’，则是要守正创新，表达新时代对未来的憧憬。”

如此，《宋韵 · 华章》其实是创新形成了一明一暗、一主一辅两条线索。对宋韵文化理念的诠释是明线，对新时代的讴歌是暗线，以此构成跨越千年的时空轴线，让宋韵的“叙事”与华章的“抒怀”交替渗透，互成音乐语境，重塑了一部词画媲美、乐理筑美、意境大美、人文恒美的大型民族音乐精品力作。

在王瑞看来，“宋韵”之“韵”，它可以是和谐悦耳的声音，是“羌管弄晴、菱歌泛夜”的低吟婉转；或者是诗词格律的要素，是“知否，知否？应是绿肥红瘦”的朗朗清音；也可以是情趣、是风度、是意蕴，更是“先天下之忧而忧，后天下之乐而乐”的家国情怀。《宋韵 · 华章》就是要在“韵”的串联下，重新解读以宋文化为底蕴的极致大美，谱写出民族复兴情境下的盛世华章。

《宋韵 · 华章》的创作周期历时近1年，每个乐章都颇为讲究。比如，第一乐章《雅韵》，以《西园雅集图》为意境，展示了苏轼、黄庭坚、米芾等文人雅集的盛况；又比如，第四乐章《意韵》，以朱熹理学和沈括的《梦溪笔谈》为蓝本，用民族交响的写实与浪漫结合，既有抽象的人文思考，又有具象的人间烟火。

交响音画《宋韵·华章》节目之一—《饮湖上初晴后雨》。董旭明/摄Artists perform during the symphony orchestra show Song Culture: Splendid Music.Photo by Dong Xuming.

交响音画《宋韵·华章》节目之一—《饮湖上初晴后雨》。董旭明/摄Artists perform during the symphony orchestra show Song Culture: Splendid Music.Photo by Dong Xuming.

现场，当丝竹管弦之声与歌声共同响起，竖起耳朵仔细听，仿佛能感受到音乐声中所传递出来的中华文化大美之胜境。

对于各个乐章的结构设计，也是创作中最难的一项。宋朝文化繁荣发展，是中国文化历史中的丰盛时期，理学、文学、史学、艺术以及科学技术领域都硕果累累。如何用音乐进行较为完整的表达？直到今年7月，每个乐章才最终定型。从宋画、宋词，到宋学、宋乐，《宋韵 · 华章》要以艺术形式集大成式展现宋代文化的高峰成就。

“这场大型交响音画，更为关键的一点是要拉近普通观众和作品间的距离。”王瑞说，为此，创作团队特意选择了“欲把西湖比西子，淡妆浓抹总相宜”等一些脍炙人口的诗句，融入作品。

不仅如此，作品还突破了传统的音乐会模式，以沉浸式的舞台呈现、高科技的音画效果展示宋韵美学。王瑞说，当音乐艺术与视觉艺术相互结合，乐器声、歌声、舞者搭配舞台屏幕上出现的宋画、宋词，观众在欣赏音乐的同时，也能更沉浸式地去感受宋韵文化，产生一加一大于二的效果。

以音乐为“笔”、舞台为“卷”，《宋韵 · 华章》希望能以民族管弦乐谱写、演绎中华风骨，唤醒每位观众心灵深处对中国传统文化的热情。

“作品力图呈现中国民族音乐的最佳表达，既有宋韵的风格延续，又有创新的艺术语汇；既聚焦民族、承续传统，更放眼世界、面向未来。”王瑞表示，这不仅是《宋韵 · 华章》的创作原则，更是接下来以音乐为依托，在表达、传播宋韵文化时需要坚持的原则。既要传承、更要发展，如此，宋韵文化才能在新时代焕发活力。

在时尚里，一场传统与现代的对话

一袭宋服传千年。11月22日晚，作为2022宋韵文化节的活动之一，“华夏衣裳 · 宋韵时尚”2022全国宋韵服装时尚设计大赛决赛暨颁奖典礼在杭州举行。比赛邀请了相关业界专家担任评委，于今年8月启动。经过3个月的征集，共有来自22个省（区、市）及中国澳门等地200多名选手报名参赛。经过层层筛选，共有24组74件作品进入决赛成衣打样制作阶段，并在决赛当晚产生了金奖1名、银奖2名、铜奖3名，商业价值奖、文化创新奖、女装新才奖、男装新才奖各1名，入围奖14名。

这是一场传统文化与现代潮流的跨时空对话。

2016年，台州黄岩发现了赵匡胤七世孙赵伯澐墓，出土了76件较为完整的丝绸服饰，其中大部分保存完好，且形制丰富、纹饰题材多样，织物品种齐备，被誉为“宋服之冠”。此次大赛正是以这76件丝绸织物为灵感来源，希望能深度挖掘宋服的历史人文价值。

本次大赛的评委之一，中国丝绸博物馆馆长季晓芬表示，通过服装设计大赛这一平台，更多年轻服装设计师得以更好地运用现代化手段和时尚理念对宋服进行活化和诠释，这一华夏精美文化元素在当代也有了更好的传播。

大赛另一位评委，中国美术学院设计与艺术学院教授、中国美术学院纺织服装研究院院长吴海燕对此颇为赞同。她说：“当年轻一代的设计师真正从他们的角度去品味宋韵时，浙江宋韵文化的魅力将更多地被全国乃至全世界所触摸、所感知、所热爱。”

从决赛现场大秀的《新生》这一主题中，也可以看到主办方的意图。当身着宋服元素的模特，在融合数字化科技的舞台上缓缓走过，舞台两侧的观众情不自禁拿起手机记录下这一刻并立即转发微信朋友圈时，也意味着宋服在当下的一种“新生”。

浙江理工大学服装设计专业研一学生赵雯设计的3套男装入选了本次决赛，她也获得此次大赛的男装新才奖。在赵雯看来，参赛作品中对宋朝服装的呈现，不仅是复原，更是传统文化与现代的巧妙融合。

10月上旬，主办方曾组织参赛者到台州黄岩采风，除了参观博物馆，还举办关于宋朝服饰的专题讲座。“这次采风让我收获很大。”赵雯回忆，黄岩博物馆的“宋服之冠”展览中，赵伯澐墓出土的76件丝绸织物工艺精湛、纹样精美、端庄雅致，让她惊叹于宋朝的服装设计及工艺。

这些经历也给了她创作灵感。宋朝的服装宽衣大袖，可以看出宋朝人的穿衣追求舒适自由，因此她大量使用了丝绸、棉麻等富有中国特色的面料。她还在服装设计中融入了宋朝书画，其中一件服装大面积采用了宋朝书法家米芾作品《集贤林舍人》中的元素。此外，她也借鉴了宋画《千里江山图》，设计了一款山峦重叠的面料，使用在本次参赛服装中。

据了解，获奖设计师将免费获得由浙江省创意设计协会提供的时尚产业创业基地空间及数字营销体系服务，享受孵化独立设计师的扶持机会。

历经雍容华贵的大唐，浪漫淡雅的大宋服饰被不少人称为和现代服装最为相近的一种。近年来，国潮风逐渐走红，在《东京梦华录》《清平乐》等与宋朝有关的影视剧影响下，宋文化被越来越多人所感知。而这次大赛和这场大秀，也带给了我们更多惊喜—创作出既能体现宋韵文化精髓又符合时代潮流的优秀作品，是宋朝生活方式带来的启发，更是对美的追求和从容的生活态度。

“华夏衣裳·宋韵时尚”2022 全国宋韵服装时尚设计大赛决赛现场大秀。吕之遥/摄Models are seen during the final of the 2022 National Song Yun Fashion Design Competition on November 22, 2022. Photo by Lyu Zhiyao.

From Song Music to Song Fashion

By Shen Tingyu Jiang Xiaorong

The millennium-old Song dynasty (960-1279) culture is full of vitality. Since the implementation of Zhejiang’s program to “pass down the Song dynasty culture for generations” one year ago, the flavor of the Song is becoming an important tangible cultural symbol, embellishing the spiritual outlook of Zhejiang people. On November 18, 2022, the Song Yun Cultural Festival was opened, with the theme of “Song Culture Today”, simultaneously in Hangzhou, Wenzhou, Shaoxing, Quzhou and Taizhou. From painting, music to garment, reading, we focus on the “Song elements” of this cultural festival, talk with experts and scholars, and explore the development path of the Song culture in the new era.

Music is the common language of the world. On the evening of November 20, 2022 an aesthetic audio-visual feast on Song culture opened in the Grand Theater of Zhejiang Conservatory of Music.

Song Culture: Splendid Musicis the first large-scale national symphony with the theme of Song culture in China. It has rediscovered and integrated the most representative cultural elements of the Song, such as Song painting, Song ci poetry,Song music, and academic Song studies. It is divided into six movements, including the overture “I Want to Return by the Wind”, the first movement “Elegant Culture”, the second movement “Taste”, the third movement “Charm”, the fourth“Artistic Rhyme”, and the epilogue “Music: Overwhelming the Countless World”. It gives a deep and new interpretation of Song culture from the perspective of music.

The performance was hosted by Zhejiang Conservatory of Music and Provincial Musicians Association. It is worth mentioning that more than 200 teachers and students from Zhejiang Conservatory of Music are responsible for the creation and interpretation of this symphony.

In the Song dynasty, music culture prospered. But this performance is not limited to the music itself. Wang Rui, the chief executive of the performance and the dean of Zhejiang Conservatory of Music, told the reporter, “The titleSong Culture:Splendid Musicis to highlight two layers of meaning — Song culture, which is the fine traditional culture and music, which is to observe rules and innovate, and express our vision of the future in the new era.”

2022年11月22日晚，市民、游客沿着南宋御街放祈福小橘灯。吕之遥/摄Visitors release lanterns to pray for happiness during the final of the 2022 National Song Yun Fashion Design Competition on November 22, 2022. Photo by Lyu Zhiyao.

In this way, the symphony is actually an innovation of two clues: one explicit and one hidden, one main and one auxiliary.The interpretation of the cultural concept of Song is the explicit line, while the eulogy of the new era is a hidden line, which constitutes a time-space axis spanning a millennium.

At the scene, when the sound of the music and the singing came together, we could feel the great beauty of Chinese culture conveyed by the music. The structural design of each movement is the most difficult one in creation. The cultural prosperity of the Song dynasty was a high point in the history of Chinese culture, with rich achievements in the fields of Confucianism,literature, history, art, and science and technology. How to express it completely with music? In July, each movement was eventually finalized, to show the peak achievements of Song culture in an integrated artistic form. “The key point of this symphonic painting is to narrow the distance between ordinary audiences and art,” Wang Rui said. For this reason, the creation team specially incorporated some well-known poems to awaken the enthusiasm of the audience for traditional Chinese culture.

On the evening of November 22, as one of the activities of the 2022 Song Yun Cultural Festival, the final and award ceremony of the 2022 National Song Fashion Design Competition of“Chinese Clothing in Song Fashion” was held in Hangzhou. The relevant industry experts served as judges and after three months of solicitation, more than 200 contestants from 22 provinces,autonomous regions and municipalities entered the competition.After layer upon layer of screening, a total of 24 groups and 74 works entered the final. At the final, there were awarded 1 gold prize, 2 silver prizes, 3 bronze prizes, 1 commercial value prize, 1 cultural innovation prize, 1 women’s new talent prize, 1 men’s new talent prize and 14 finalists.

In 2016, in Huangyan, Taizhou, the tomb of Prince Zhao Boyun was discovered and 76 pieces of quite complete silk clothing were unearthed, with rich shapes, diverse decorative themes, and complete varieties of fabrics, known as the “crown of Song clothing”.This competition was inspired by the silk fabrics, in the hope of deeply exploring the historical and cultural value of Song clothing.

Ji Xiaofen, one of the judges of the competition and director of the China Silk Museum, said that through the bridge of fashion design, more young designers could use modern means and fashion concepts to activate and interpret the Song clothing, which would help to better spread this fine Chinese cultural element in the contemporary era.

Wu Haiyan, another judge of the competition, a professor of the School of Design and Art of China Academy of Art and the dean of the academy’s Textile and Garment Research Institute,agreed with this. She said, “When designers of the younger generation really taste Song culture from their perspective, I believe that in the future, Zhejiang’s Song culture will be appreciated by the whole country and even the entire world.”

Wen, a graduate student of fashion design at Zhejiang University of Science and Technology, had her three sets of men’s clothes qualified for the finals, and she won the New Talent Award for Men’s Clothes.

In early October, the organizer led the contestants to Huangyan in Taizhou, visiting museums and attending a special lecture on Song clothing. Zhao Wen recalled that in the “Crown of Song Costumes”exhibition in Huangyan Museum, 76 pieces of silk fabrics unearthed were exquisite in craftsmanship and in patterns, dignified and elegant. This gave her inspiration. The loose clothes and large sleeves in the Song show that Song people pursue comfort and freedom in dressing, so she used a lot of fabrics with Chinese characteristics,such as silk, cotton and linen. She also integrated Song calligraphy and painting into her costume design. One of her costumes was full of elements from the work of Song calligrapher Mi Fu (1051-1107).In addition, she drew on a Song painting to design a fabric with overlapping mountains, which was used in this competition.

After the elegant and stately Tang dynasty (618-907), the romantic and hazy garment of the Song is regarded by many as the closest to modern clothing. In recent years, the Chinachic style has gradually become popular. Under the influence of films and TV plays related to the Song dynasty, such asDongjing Menghua Lu, or The Eastern Capital: A Dream of Splendor, the Song culture has been perceived by more and more people. And this competition and this show brought us pleasant surprises —creating excellent works that can reflect the essence of Song culture and conform to the trend of the times is an inspiration from the Song lifestyle, as well as the pursuit of beauty and a leisurely attitude towards life.

交响音画《宋韵·华章》序曲《宋韵—我欲乘风归去》。董旭明/摄Artists perform during the symphony orchestra show Song Culture: Splendid Music. Photo by Dong Xuming.