英国的服装文化

文/艾布利斯·盖尔 译/蒋威

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British clothing culture is a central aspect of life in Britain.Fashion trends,weather, and social norms all shape the country’s modern clothing culture.British clothing categories mainly fall into loungewear, casual, smart-casual1smart casual又称商务便装，从字面意义上讲可以理解为“体面的休闲风格”。比商务休闲装（business casual）更为休闲，自由度也较大。, and formal wear.Loungewear is usually limited to indoors or popping2pop〈主英，非正式〉去。to the shops on a low-maintenance day.In contrast, formal wear like a suit is suitable for events like the races and weddings.

2We have curated3curate策划组织（展览、表演、音乐会等）。a helpful guide to British clothing culture.

英国的服装文化是英国生活的一个核心部分。时尚潮流、天气和社会规范都塑造了英国的现代服装文化。英国服装主要分为家居装、休闲装、半正式休闲装和正装。家居装通常限于在室内穿或没有应酬的日子去商店购物时穿。相比之下，套装等正装则适合观看赛马和参加婚礼等活动时穿。

2我们编写了一份关于英国服装文化的实用指南。

Tweed jackets

3While commonly linked to British clothing culture, tweed originates from 18th century Scotland.

粗花呢夹克

3粗花呢虽常与英国服装文化联系在一起，但却起源于18世纪的苏格兰。

4In the Outer Hebrides, the concept behind tweed was simply a protection against the harsh elements.However,word (and fabric) soon spread.By the 19th century, tweed was the height of fashion in British society.Tweed jackets were particularly favored for the sporting upper class and often worn for riding, hunting, and shooting.Later still,tweed spread across the British class spectrum—becoming an essential clothing item for farmers.

4在当时的外赫布里底群岛，穿粗花呢只是为了抵御恶劣的气候环境。但随着有关这种穿法的消息不胫而走，粗花呢也很快为人所熟知。到19世纪，穿粗花呢已成为英国社会的顶级时尚。热衷于运动的英国上流社会尤其青睐粗花呢夹克，常在骑马、狩猎和射击时穿。后来，粗花呢在英国各阶层流行开来，成为农民的基本服装。

5Nowadays, tweed jackets are a versatile4versatile多种用途的，万用的。item within British clothing culture.The jackets are worn by men and women alike and can fit several different clothing categories.Many farmers still wear tweed, especially at agricultural shows such as The Great Yorkshire Show.Similarly, some horse riders and sport shooters still choose to don5don穿戴上。a tweed jacket.

6However, the tweed jacket is also suitable for smart-casual events outside of sporting and agriculture.Whether on a night out, a fancy dinner, or even a wedding—tweed gets a large green tick for social acceptability.

5如今，粗花呢夹克已成为英国服装文化中的一款百搭服饰，男女皆宜，且适合与数个不同的服装类别搭配。许多农民仍然会穿粗花呢，特别是在大约克郡展这样的农业展览上。同样，一些马术骑手和射击运动员仍然选择穿粗花呢夹克。6但粗花呢夹克也适用于体育和农业以外的半正式休闲活动。无论是晚间外出，还是去高档餐厅，甚至是参加婚礼，穿粗花呢都合乎时宜。

Jeans

7Jeans are a controversial category choice within British clothing culture.Typically, you will see jeans in the casual and smart-casual clothing categories when in Britain.

牛仔裤

7牛仔裤是英国服装文化中一个颇有争议的类别选择。通常情况下，在英国，牛仔裤属于休闲装和半正式休闲装。

8Jeans originated in the USA back in the 19th century.The design is credited to a tailor named Davis, who sought patency from his fabric supplier, Levi Strauss.Nowadays, Levi’s remains one of the largest company icons in the clothing industry.

8牛仔裤起源于19世纪的美国，其设计要归功于一位名叫戴维斯的裁缝。戴维斯从其面料供应商李维·斯特劳斯那里获得了牛仔裤的专利权。如今，李维斯仍是服装界最大的公司品牌之一。

9By the mid-20th century, jeans had crossed the Atlantic and grown in popularity within British clothing culture.And, now when visiting Britain, you’ll see jeans in supermarkets, fancy bars,and even in the workplace.

9到20世纪中叶，牛仔裤已跨过大西洋，在英国服装文化中越来越受欢迎。如今，当你访问英国时，在英国的超市、高级酒吧，甚至工作场所都能看到有人穿牛仔裤。

Leggings

10Leggings are typically regarded as somewhat of a guilty pleasure6guilty pleasure拿不出手的爱好。and worn mostly by women.While somewhat of a versatile item within British clothing culture, you can primarily expect leggings to fall under loungewear.Leggings are also popular within the sporting and fitness industry, with a matching sports bra and leggings a popular gym outfit in Britain.

11With that said, you can dress leggings up to fit the casual category.Pairing leggings with an oversized jumper and some trendy jewelry is a popular outfit look,especially in the Autumn months.Think of a takeaway coffee street style.

12Funnily enough, while women now favor leggings, it was military men they were designed for in 14th century Scotland.

紧身裤

10紧身裤多为女装，通常被认为是一种穿起来舒服但看着不怎么讲究的服装。虽然在英国服装文化中，紧身裤算得上是一种百搭服饰，但主要被归为家居装。紧身裤在体育和健身行业也很受欢迎。运动胸罩配紧身裤在英国是颇为流行的健身装。

11尽管如此，紧身裤搭配一番也可以归为休闲装。紧身裤配大码羊毛套衫和时尚珠宝便是一种流行的服装造型，尤其是在秋季。可以脑补一下手捧外卖咖啡的街头穿搭风。

12有趣的是，虽然紧身裤如今受女性青睐，但在14世纪的苏格兰却是为士兵而设计的。

Trainers

运动鞋

13运动鞋在英国的流行趋势时常出现波动。一度，可以说90%的英国女性都有一双阿迪达斯Superstar运动鞋；自然，人们后来因为受够了运动鞋不好配衣服，转而迷上其他鞋款。

13Fashion trends for trainers fluctuate regularly in Britain.At one point, you could hazard7hazard大胆（猜测）；冒昧提出（建议）。a guess that 90% of the female British population owned a pair of Adidas Superstars.Until, of course,everyone got fed up with matching and moved on to the next shoe obsession.

14Trainers are mostly considered casual in the footwear categories.A prized pair of trainers are suitable for Friday night at the local pub but likely not for clubbing or smart-casual venues and events.

14运动鞋主要被归为休闲鞋。一双价格不菲的运动鞋适合周五晚上穿去本地的小酒馆，但很可能不适合穿去俱乐部或出席商务便装场所和活动。

Bodycon dresses

15While the weather may influence the majority of clothing on this list,bodycon dresses are the exception.Rain or shine, winter or summer, when going clubbing, a bodycon dress is uniform.

16And a coat? Absolutely not.Women in Britain take their clubbing outfits very seriously and are more than happy to shiver their way to hypothermia8hypothermia体温过低，又称低温症、低体温症。while lining up to enter the club.Figurehugging dresses are very much the fashion when partying in British clothing culture.

贴身连衣裙

15虽然本指南中的大部分服饰都可能受天气影响，但贴身连衣裙是个例外。无论晴雨冬夏，去俱乐部都可以穿贴身连身裙。

16大衣呢？绝对不行。英国女性十分重视其聚会着装，即使在俱乐部门口排队时瑟瑟发抖，冻到体温过低，也心甘情愿。在英国服装文化中，聚会时穿贴身连衣裙是一种时尚。

17然而，贴身连衣裙并不只适用于俱乐部。其通常归为半正式休闲装和正装，不过胆大的人也可能把它当休闲装来穿，尤其是在夏天。外出就餐、观看赛马或出席婚礼等活动

17However, the bodycon dress is not solely reserved for clubbing.It usually falls into the smart-casual and formal category—although the brave may attempt the casual category, especially in summer.The bodycon is always a popular option for dining out, the races,or events such as weddings.时，贴身连衣裙永远都是一个受欢迎的选择。

Suit

18The classic suit is also popular within British clothing culture.Like the bodycon dress, a suit is associated with smart-casual or formal occasions, with casual wearing remaining a bold option.

19Often, a suit jacket is worn with casual clothes, like a pair of jeans, to create a smart-casual look.A full suit is usually reserved for formal parties, certain work occupations, the races, or key social events like weddings.

西装

18经典西装在英国服装文化中也很流行。像贴身连衣裙一样，西装适合半正式休闲场合和正式场合，此时穿休闲装则是一种大胆的选择。

19通常情况下，西装上衣可以与牛仔裤等休闲装搭配，以营造一种半正式休闲装的感觉。全套西装通常用于出席正式聚会、从事特定职业、观看赛马或参加婚礼等重要社交活动。

Trench coat

20Popular amongst men and women,the trench coat is a standard wardrobe addition in Britain.The coat shot to the spotlight as military attire in the First World War, despite being used back in the early 19th century.

21The long, waterproof trench coats were ideal for navigating the disgusting mud and diseased trenches.Although,trench coats were mainly reserved for the higher-ranking military, such as officers, instead of the common soldier.

风衣

22Nowadays, many retailers who once designed military uniforms provide fashionable clothing.Burberry, for one,was particularly notable during the war and remains a global fashion company today.During the First World War,Burberry released the Burberry trench coat for military use, and now its website showcases trench coats for a retail price of up to approximately £4,000.

20风衣男女皆爱，是英国人衣橱里的标配。尽管早在19世纪初就已问世，但风衣作为军装而受万众瞩目是在第一次世界大战期间。

21长款防水风衣非常适合在令人作呕的泥泞地和沾满病菌的战壕里行走时穿着。不过，风衣当时主要提供给军官等高级别军人，而非普通士兵。

22如今，许多曾经设计过军服的零售商都会提供时装。博柏利便是其中之一。该品牌在战争期间尤为引人注目，至今仍是一家全球时尚公司。博柏利于第一次世界大战期间推出了军用博柏利风衣，如今其网站上展示的风衣零售价高达约4000英镑。

Grey joggers

23Grey joggers are a necessity within British clothing culture.Commonly associated with hangovers, self-care9self-care工作学习之余自我放松、娱乐休闲等活动的总称，例如读书、冥想、锻炼、烘培、逛街 、听音乐、看电影等。days,or screaming “I prioritise comfort” to the world—joggers, preferably grey, are a cornerstone10cornerstone基础；柱石；地基。item of clothing.

24Joggers, also known as sweatpants,usually fall into the loungewear or casual category.For context, you may just about get away with grabbing a drink at the local pub in joggers, although this could be considered a bold move and underdressed.However, to socialize casually with friends, joggers aren’t an issue.

灰色慢跑裤

23灰色慢跑裤是英国服装文化中的一款必需品。慢跑裤（最好是灰色）是一款基础服饰，通常与宿醉、自我调节的时光或“舒适第一”的穿衣理念联系起来。

24慢跑裤，也称运动裤，通常归为家居装或休闲装。比如，你可以穿着慢跑裤在本地的小酒馆喝上一杯，尽管可能被认为穿得有些大胆和随便。但如果是和朋友休闲聚会，穿慢跑裤就不是问题了。

25Joggers were originally born in France as the brainchild of Emile Camuset, the founder of Le Coq Sportif.He created grey joggers in the 1920s for easy movement yet warmth for athletes.In the 21st century, joggers are massproduced by global brands and are particularly loved by the Brits throughout colder seasons.■

25慢跑裤最初诞生于法国，是乐卡克公司创始人埃米尔·卡米塞的创意。他在20世纪20年代发明了灰色慢跑裤，方便运动员活动和保暖。到了21世纪，慢跑裤由各种全球品牌批量生产，在寒冷的季节尤其受英国人的青睐。 □