浙东唐诗之路：经典诗歌 浸润人心

这是一条由无数文人墨客踏就的文化古道。

1300年前，无数唐朝诗人，从钱塘江出发，经绍兴，自镜湖向南经曹娥江、剡溪，溯流而上，经新昌的石城、沃洲、天姥，最后抵达天台山，一路载酒扬帆、击节高歌，留下了1500多首经典唐诗。他们行走的这一线路，被今人称为“浙东唐诗之路”。

游歷过这条“诗路”的诗人里，既有像青年就入台越、冶游忘归达四年之久的杜甫，和四入浙江、三至越中、二登台岳的李白这样的超级巨星;有“初唐四杰”中的卢照邻、骆宾王;有“饮中八仙”中的贺知章、崔宗之;有“中唐三俊”的元稹、李绅、李德裕;有“晚唐三罗”的罗隐、罗邺、罗虬。

他们或单骑仗剑做壮游，或淡泊红尘、投身山水做隐游，或“时危身适越”做避乱游，或做经济考察游……

据统计，《全唐诗》记载的2200余位诗人中有400多位诗人、《唐才子传》收载的278位才子中有170余位游历过这条风景线。

缘起贺李杜

关于浙东唐诗之路的起源，有一种说法就是李白寻访贺知章之路，后来的仿效者就络绎不绝了。

公元745年，绍兴人贺知章因病上疏请求还乡山阴。那年，他86岁。贺老爷子回家路线，走的便是“诗路”中的精华段——从钱塘江经绍兴鉴湖、山阴道和若耶溪一带。

唐诗古道上的稽山镜水，以及熟悉的故乡生活和风土人情，带给贺知章很多的快乐，也为他人生的最后时光画上一个圆满的句号。

贺知章与李白是忘年交，是贺知章发现了李白，向唐玄宗推荐了这位“谪仙人”。唐玄宗任命李白为翰林学士，一炮而红。

李白第二次漫游浙东时，兴冲冲专程去老宅拜访贺知章，一进门才得知，伯乐已经作古。李白感念他的知遇之情，作了《对酒忆贺监二首》，其一：“四明有狂客，风流贺季真。长安一相见，呼我谪仙人。昔好杯中物，翻为松下尘。金龟换酒处，却忆泪沾巾。”

李白的游浙东情怀，还因有对谢灵运的仰慕。

24岁时他在《秋下荆门》中告诉友人：“霜落荆门江树空，布帆无恙挂秋风。此行不为鲈鱼鲙，自爱名山入剡中”。

公元726年的夏天，他在扬州写下《别储邕之剡中》：“借问剡中道，东南指越乡。舟从广陵去，水入会稽长。竹色溪下绿，荷花镜里香。辞君向天姥，拂石卧秋霜。”

公元727年，他实在难以压抑自己雀跃的灵魂，就经大运河到临安，又经萧山、会稽入剡中，最后登临天台山，看览尽天台山水。临行前挥笔而就千古名篇《梦游天姥吟留别》：“天姥连天向天横，势拔五岳掩赤城。天台四万八千丈，对此欲倒东南倾。我欲因之梦吴越，一夜飞度镜湖月。湖月照我影，送我至剡溪。谢公宿处今尚在，渌水荡漾清猿啼。脚著谢公屐，身登青云梯。”

公元747年，李白到达天台山，山上松杉扶疏，草木薰郁。在顶峰华顶，在虚无缥缈的云雾中，他写下《登高丘而望远》：登高丘而望远海，六鳌骨已霜，三山流安在？扶桑半摧折，白日沉光彩。银台金阙如梦中，秦皇汉武空相待。精卫费木石，鼋鼍无所凭。君不见骊山茂陵尽灰灭，牧羊之子来攀登。盗贼劫宝玉，精灵竟何能。穷兵黩武今如此，鼎湖飞龙安可乘？”

纵观李白这一生，对24岁的李白而言，盛唐之势如日中天，他亦是踌躇满志，意气风发。谢灵运是他的榜样，他慕其清新自然的诗意，更敬其劈山开道的豪举，也因此他打定主意，要去谢灵运游过的山水，走他走过的路。

公元731年，唐诗之路上来了一位世家公子。他就是此后被誉为“诗圣”的杜甫。那年他二十岁，时任兖州县令的父亲杜闲不但没被“父母在，不远游”的传统古训束缚，而且鼓励杜甫辞亲远游。杜甫这便开始了在越地的壮游。

杜甫甫至越地，迎接他的是一池鉴湖的潋滟水色与遍地肤色白皙的越女。溪水两旁，一群女子头戴草帽，体态窈窕，她们蹲在溪边，双手拿着薄如蝉翼白如无物的纱。

千年前，这里曾经是美女西施浣衣之地。从这里，杜甫一路南下，游会稽，访禹穴，泛舟剡溪，抵临天姥。江南漫游，让这位沉郁顿挫的大诗人给他孤苦的晚年留下了一段美好的回忆。

处处皆成诗

浙东唐诗之路是一条水路泛舟，水尽登山而歌的游历之路，更是一条山水、文化结合的吟咏之路。浙东唐诗之路的形成，是浙东山水之美逐渐被发现的过程。

“春路逶迤花柳前，孤舟晚泊就人烟。东山白云不可见，西陵江月夜娟娟。春江夜尽潮声度，征帆遥从此中去。越国山川看渐无，可怜愁思江南树。”孙逖的这首《春日留别》，描写了唐代西陵的情景。

诗中的西陵，是现在的西兴古镇。它坐落于杭州钱塘江南岸，南接白马湖。历史上曾是两浙门户，交通发达、地势险要，自古为“浙东首地，宁、绍、台之襟喉”。西兴是浙东唐诗之路的起点，作为交通要冲，诗人们或凭栏怀古，或泛舟畅游，或夜宿西兴。据不完全统计，西陵、固陵、樟亭，西陵驿、白马湖、城山等涉及西兴地域地名的诗篇，就有400首之多。其中，不乏李白、杜甫、白居易、苏东坡等历代名家的壮丽诗篇。

告别钱塘江边的西兴，唐代诗人们沿着浙东运河，一路南下，寻觅越中山水，鉴湖推篷，耶溪泛舟，山阴道行，龙山远眺，诗人们或探幽访胜，或寄情山水，或问道论学。杜甫在鉴湖边，留下了“鉴湖五月凉”的诗句，说明周边的生态环境非常好。鉴湖就是一幅水墨画，“推篷四望水连空，一片蒲帆正饱风。”所谓的烟雨江南，正是如此。

水黛山青，湖光潋滟，白鹭齐飞。“少小离家老大回”的贺知章曾面对这一方湖水，感慨道“惟有门前镜湖水，春风不改旧时波”。李白也曾多次到过鉴湖，写下了“镜湖水如月，耶溪女似雪。新妆荡新波，光景两奇绝。”的诗句。鉴水悠悠，源源不绝。一千多年来，鉴湖把柔媚与刚直，糅合在一湖清波中。历史上对绍兴“鱼米之乡”和“历史文化名城”作出巨大贡献的鉴湖，仍将一如继往，滋养着这片土地。

“青娥埋没此江滨，江树飕飗惨暮云。文字在碑碑已堕，波涛辜负色丝文。”在绍兴上虞，曹娥江静静流淌。江畔，伫立着一座曹娥庙。一条江，一座庙，都由一位女子的名字命名，千百年来，饱经沧桑，仍吸引着无数文人墨客，纷至沓来，凭吊怀古。

上虞西南，有一座东山，这里层峦叠嶂，清波涟漪。因为谢安隐居东山二十年，留下了名传千古的动人传说，这里成为浙东唐诗之路上诗人心中的一座理想坐标，许多唐代诗人专程来到东山。唐代大诗人李白慕名而来，先后三次来东山，游览胜景，他一生写到东山的诗有37首。第三次到东山来，他说“不向东山久，蔷薇几度花。白云还自散，明月落谁家。”李白一生把自己比做明月。这个时候，李白已经五十多岁了，他想到，自己在哪里落腳，养老呢？其实，李白非常留恋东山，他曾经希望，自己在东山与谢安相伴，在这里终老，但是身不由己，他还有许多事情要做。

“水作青龙盘石堤，桃花夹岸鲁门西。若教月下乘舟去，何啻风流到剡溪。”这条穿城而过的河流就是剡溪，古人畅游南方以水路为主，水尽则登山而歌，而剡溪则是登天台山的必经之路。在这条令人神往的路线上，有着许多水陆风光可供人欣赏，又有许多人文景观、名胜古迹供人瞻仰，这对于崇尚漫游之风的唐代诗人来说真是踏破铁鞋的理想之处。众多诗人仰慕王谢、二戴等归隐剡中之名，信敬魏晋遗风，南下寻踪。他们经钱塘，泛鉴湖，过曹娥，抵达剡溪，游历嵊地，一路诗吟风月，词弄华章。

谢灵运曾在在鞋底安装两个木齿，上山去掉前齿，下山去掉后齿，这种鞋被后人称作“谢公屐”。天姥山也由于他的登临，得到了很多唐代诗人的推崇。诗人李白写下“天姥连天向天横”的诗句，让自己梦中游览天姥山的诗歌流传至今。古人写下的诗篇，仍在历史长河中回响。

一路显风光

除此之外，隋开皇十八年，杨广命司马王弘在天台山上建造寺庙，据智者大师遗书中“寺若成，国即清”，改寺名为国清寺。此后天台宗诸祖都驻锡于此，国清寺也因此成为天台宗的根本道场。国清寺历代高僧辈出，四海弘扬天台教法。海外僧人求法，也常常将天台山作为目的地。

说不尽，看不厌，画不完的天台山，“山中何所有？白云抱幽石。”石梁飞瀑、华顶归云、赤城栖霞、寒岩夕照，国清寺山门苍松，桐柏宫的无为宗旨……在秀丽山水中，跟着唐诗，寻觅先贤踪影，感受唐诗之路，为这里赋予的悠悠不尽的文化内涵。天台山是唐代诗人的主要目的地，也有一些诗人会继续寻访仙居、临海。

“去年曾览韦羌图，云有仙人古篆书。千尺石岩无路到，不知蝌蚪字何如。”北宋政治家、理学家陈襄，27岁赴任仙居县令时，对仙居的神秘瑰丽发出感叹;诗人张籍十分羡慕辛秘任乐安县尉，感叹“选得天台山下住，一家全作学仙人。”不仅是美丽的风景，发生在仙居的成语故事，比如逢人说项、身后识方干，更是为这条文化之路打上了仙居的烙印。

在浙东唐诗之路上，还有一座临海古城。

“家在双峰兰若边，一声秋磬发孤烟。山连极浦鸟飞尽，月上青林人未眠。”这是中唐诗人顾况在临海任职时对临海风物的描述。逶迤起伏的台州府城墙、古色古香的紫阳老街、熠熠生辉的巾山古塔……位于浙江省临海市的“台州府城”，始建于晋，成于隋唐，北枕龙固，南接巾子，两山相峙。在浙东的唐诗之路上面是处于一个腰部的位置，路上的交通可以到绍兴、宁波到杭州以及到长安洛阳，南边可以到温州、福州、广州，水上交通又处于一个东西的腰部。台州府城是向海外输出台州文化的一个启航地，又是跟海外进行文化交流、商贸往来的一个重要的口岸。在浙东唐诗之路上是南来北往的人们的集散地。

吟一首诗，看千年经典惹人恋;歌一阙词，让荡气回肠永流传。李白梦游，杜甫归帆，白傅垂文，诗人们且行且歌，一路风光一路诗，踏成一条唐诗之路。

在流淌着文化自信的青山绿水间，一场场波澜壮阔的阅读盛典在不断演绎，是孟郊的“青山行不尽，绿水去何长”，王昌龄的“辉辉远洲映，暖暖澄湖光”，也是岑参的“城边楼枕海，郭里树侵湖”，许浑的“赤城云雪深，山客负归心”。山水与诗歌相合，自然与文化共生，任时间荏苒，沧海桑田，浙东唐诗之路上这一首首经典诗歌，依然浸润人心，有着无限的生命力。

千年的岁月已流淌而去，当年追慕先贤的诗人们可能未曾想到，曾站在桥上看风景的他们，又再度成为了别人眼中的风景。而浙东的山河，不仅哺育了一方百姓，也为中国奉献出了一条光芒万丈的唐诗之路。

The Tang Poetry Road in East Zhejiang： In the Footsteps of “Immortals” and Sages

Starting off from the Qiangtang River in Hangzhou， passing through Shaoxing via the Jinghu Lake and upstream the Caoe River and Shanxi River to the south， before arriving at Tiantai Mountain by way of Shicheng， Wozhou and Tianmu in Xinchang. This is an ancient cultural path that countless men of letters have treaded. Indeed， 1，300 years ago， numerous Tang poets set sail on the trail， wine freely flowing and in high spirits， leaving behind more than 1，500 classic poems along the way.

Befittingly， the route is now called “the Tang Poetry Road in East Zhejiang”. Such a “star-studded road” it is.

On top of the list of the Tang poets who took the journey along the same road are Du Fu （712-770）， who came to Zhejiang at a young age and stayed for four years， and Li Bai （701-762）， who visited Zhejiang four times， thrice to Yuezhong （present-day Shaoxing） and twice ascending the Tiantai Mountain. Followed by Lu Zhaolin （ca. 634-ca. 689） and Luo Binwang （ca. 626-ca. 684）， two of the “Four Paragons of the Early Tang”， and He Zhizhang （658-744） and Cui Zongzhi （？-？）， two of the “Eight Immortals Indulged in Wine”.  Then there are Yuan Zhen （779-831）， Li Shen （772-846） and Li Deyu （787-850）， the “Three Talents of Mid-Tang”， and Luo Yin （833-910）， Luo Ye （825-？） and Luo Qiu （？-？）， the “Three Luos of the Late Tang”...and many more.

According to statistics， over 400 of the 2，200-odd poets recorded in Quantangshi （Complete Tang Poems）， and more than 170 of the 278 poets collected in Tang Caizi Zhuan （Biographies of Eminent Tang Poets） had set foot on the route， for different reasons.

Some of them were on a tour to enrich their life experience， some to escape from the humdrum of life， some to look for shelter in times of turmoil， and still some to survey the areas economic development.

Why did the poets choose this particular route？ One popular theory ascribes it all to Li Bai. Or more precisely， Li Bai following the footsteps of He Zhizhang.

Despite their great difference in age， Li and He regarded each other as one of their best friends. Indeed， it is He who first bestowed upon Li his now commonly referred to nickname， the “Banished Immortal”， and recommended Li to the Tang emperor.

At a young age， Li went to the capital Changan （present-day Xian） to seek his political fortune. Without any friends there， Li lived alone in a small tavern. One day， he chanced upon He， who was already a senior official. Unbeknownst to Li， He had already heard of Li and his fascinating poems. Delighted to meet Li in person， He decided to buy him some drinks. Unfortunately， He didnt carry any money， but he was determined to treat Li. He then took off his gold-turtle baldric， a token for senior officials， and exchanged it for some wine. They boozed happily until both were drunk and their friendship was cemented.

In the year 745， He， already 86 years old and afflicted with illnesses， asked the Tang emperor to permit him to retire to his hometown Shanyin （present—day Shaoxing）. In Zhejiang， Hes journey home—from Qiantang River to Jianhu Lake， Shanyin Road and Ruoye River—is considered the best part of the Tang poetry road.

During Li Bais second trip to East Zhejiang a couple of years later， he made a special effort to visit He and travelled the same route as He did， only to find his old friend had already passed away. Li paid tribute to He and lamented his death：

“A ‘Wild Fellow in Siming there is， by the name of He Jizhen [He Zhizhangs courtesy name] he goes. The first time we met， a ‘Banished Immortal he called me. Alas， once a ‘Wine Immortal， all you left is a mound of earth under the pine tree. Instead of ‘gold in exchange for wine， now only tears I can see.”

Li Bais fascination with East Zhejiang also came from his admiration for Xie Lingyun （385-433）. One of the foremost poets in the Southern and Northern Dynasties （420-589）， Xie was a native of Kuaiji （part of present-day Shaoxing） and a descendant of the Xie Family， a famous noble clan. He was also known as Kangle Gong or Duke of Kangle by succeeding to the family dukedom. Xie was widely lauded as the pioneer in developing the landscape poetry genre， which has later become one of the major literature schools in China. In fact， his landscape poems earned him the recognition as the trailblazer of the modern-day East Zhejiang tourist route， which Li Bai was determined to cover.

Inspired by Xie， Li travelled extensively in East Zhejiang， and wrote many poems about the area. At the age of 24， he told his friends： “Not for stewed perch Im on this trip， but for great mountains Im on my way to Shanzhong [in present-day Shengzhou city].” In 726， he spoke of the areas sceneries longingly in Yangzhou： “Green are the bamboos and brooks， fragrant are the lotus flowers in mirror-like lakes.” And in 727， unable to suppress his wanderlust， Li Bai was on the way again， arriving in Linan （present-day Hangzhou） via the Grand Canal， before going on to Xiaoshan， Kuaiji and Shanzhong. When he finally ascended the Tiantai and Tianmu Mountains， one of the greatest poems was born， which was beautifully rendered into English by Xu Yuanchong， a renowned contemporary Chinese translator：

...

Mount Skyland threatens heaven， massed against the sky，

Surpassing the Five Peaks and dwarfing Mount Red Town.

Mount Heavens Terrace， five hundred thousand feet high.

Surpassing the Five Peaks and dwarfing Mount Red Town.

Mount Heavens Terrace， five hundred thousand feet high，

Nearby to the southeast， appears to crumble down.

Longing in dreams for Southern land， one night

I flew o'er Mirror Lake in moonlight.

My shadows followed by moonbeams

Until I reach Shimmering Streams，

Where Hermitage of Master Xie can still be seen，

And clearly gibbons wail oer rippling water green.

I put Xies pegged boot

Each on one foot，

And scale the mountain ladder to blue cloud.

...

（ “Mountain Skyland Ascended in a Dream： A Song of Farewell” or Mengyou Tianmu Yin Liubie， by Li Bai， translated by Xu Yuanchong）

Here “Mount Skyland” refers to Tianmu Mountain while “Mount Heaven” refers to Tiantai Mountain， and the poetic names just show their breathtaking grandeur. Located in present-day Shaoxing city， Shanxi River （“Shimmering Streams”）， through which to get to the mountains， and Jinghu Lake， literally “Mirror Lake” and also known as Jianhu Lake， have attracted the admirations of many a poet， including Du Fu， who set his foot in this area just a few years later and praised the river and the lake effusively. Unsurprisingly， Xie Lingyun， idolized by Li Bai， figures prominently in the poem. Xie is more than a poet; he is widely credited with inventing the “pegged boot”， as alluded to in the poem. The boots， commonly known as “Duke Xies Wooden Boots”， feature small pegs underneath which are removable depending on whether the wearer is on level ground or going up or down a slope， i.e. climbing a mountain. For Li Bai， he was eventually able to fulfil his dream of standing on top of Tianmu Mountain and Tiantai Mountain as Xie did; he was truly following Xies “bootsteps”.

More than a thousand years have passed since the Tang poets attempted to seek wisdom and inspiration from their predecessors whom they regarded as “immortals” and sages. They are now in turn being admired and appreciated. From Xixing Ancient Town， on the south bank of the Qiantang River in Hangzhou and the starting point of the East Zhejiang Poetry Road， to Tiantai Mountain， where it ends， their poems can be found everywhere. A rough estimate puts the number of Tang poems written about Xixing at over 400. To the southwest of Shangyu district in Shaoxing， stands Dongshan Mountain （literally “East Mountain”）， about which Li Bai alone composed 37 poems. Not to mention Shanxi River， Jinghu Lake， and the other places along the way. This is a veritable Tang poetry road.