台绣：与古为新 独树一帜

刘凡力 张涵涵

臺绣为台州刺绣的简称，又名“雕平绣”“海门雕绣”，是中国民间刺绣的一种独创形式，见证了早期中西文化的交融。20世纪初（1906年），法国仁爱会来海门（今台州）天主教堂传教，向教堂的女教徒和孤儿传授西方的“雕镂”和“抽纱”技艺，俗称“天主堂花”，经与台州传统手工刺绣融合发展，逐渐形成了独具地域文化特色的“海门雕绣（台州刺绣）”。鼎盛时期，以台绣为基础的贸易出口产值达到8亿元，绣花人员达13万人，产品远销60多个国家和地区。台绣更是以独有的“雕平绣”风格称誉海外，国际上誉为“东方瑰宝”。

台绣第三代传承人林霞（中国工艺美术大师、中国刺绣艺术大师、浙江省万人计划“传统工艺领军人才”，台绣服饰董事长兼艺术设计总监），出生在台绣的发源地，从小在外婆的花绷前长大。她自幼酷爱美术，儿童时期随从水彩画家哈定先生学习绘画。16岁时，她凭着优秀的绘画功底，考入当时规模最大的台州绣衣厂，成为一名绣衣设计师，从此，便与台绣结下了不解之缘。

林霞是传统台绣的传承人，更是当代台绣的开创者。四十余年深耕不辍，与台绣深入对话、共同成长，不断地打破又重新建立……她在传统抽、拉、雕技艺的基础上，突破了刺绣原本依附于画面的属性，以更加通透、立体浮雕的技法和概念的艺术设计，衍生出“纤艺绣”，形成属于台绣自己的语言以及鲜明的风格特点。她创作的《网络天下》《原 ·  衍生》《降生》《万物生》《万物灵》《紫椹》等精品佳作，荣获国际、国家级金奖50余项，多件作品被国际级博物馆收藏。此外，她通过创意设计，将台绣的文化、技艺和艺术元素进行萃取转化，形成多样化的实用产品。其作品赋予台绣更当代的表达，与时代融合更趋紧密。

Taizhou Embroidery： Integrating Past and Present

By Liu Fanli  Zhang Hanhan

Taizhou Embroidery， or simply Taixiu in Chinese， is a folk embroidery that has witnessed the early integration of Chinese and Western cultures. In 1906， when a group of French Catholic missionaries went to Haimen （present-day Taizhou）， they passed on Western embroidery techniques， such as cutwork and drawnwork， to nuns and orphans in the local church. That’s also why Taizhou Embroidery is also known as “Cutwork Embroidery” or “Haimen Embroidery”. Overtime， these techniques were incorporated into traditional Chinese embroidery and a unique style of embroidery was born. At its peak， Taixiu and Taixiu-related products worth 800 million yuan were exported to over 60 countries and regions， and as many as 130，000 embroiderers were employed in the industry. For its unique style， Taixiu is known as the “oriental treasure” on the international stage.

Born in Taizhou， Lin Xia， a third-generation inheritor of the Taixiu craft and founder of TAISILK， started to learn painting at a very young age. When she was 16， Lin passed the examination and became a designer in the biggest embroidery garment factory in Taizhou. Since then， her Taixiu career has taken off.

Indeed， Lin is both an inheritor of traditional Taixiu and a pioneer of modern Taixiu. In over four decades， Lin has gone beyond traditions， injected new art designs and techniques， and created her distinctive style. Her works， including Web World and Birth， won more than 50 international and national awards， and many have been collected by international museums. Moreover， through creative designs， Lin has transformed elements of the Taixiu culture， craft and arts into a diverse selection of products， imbuing Taixiu with a contemporary expression and bringing it to modern life.