象山寻味

周含

1岁时，尚未学会走路，被热情的邻居请吃梭子蟹脚，差点梗塞。

5岁时，第一次吃黄梅童，轻松淡定地抿出细细碎碎的鱼刺，被祖母点了一万个赞。

10岁时，成功掌握1秒钟完整吐出东海江白虾壳的技能，一度幻想能参加“中国开渔节”嘉宾表演环节。

12岁时，已清晰地区别出冰鲜和活鲜之间的口感差异。

……

17岁之前，我从未离开过象山半岛，海洋赐予的一切，都在我的血脉之中。

有些感情，只有距离可鉴定。

乡情更是。

对象山人而言，只要不是方言覆盖的地方，都算不得“留在家中”。

因为家乡，万事俱好。

有一种早餐

在象山，清晨起来，最喜欢的便是肉包子两只或炒麦面一盆，包子定是那种剁馅加葱的古早口味，不能放鸡蛋，放鸡蛋那是外乡人的做法，不放酱油的又是宁波老派的做法，象山人就要见得着肉粒的馅儿，在酱油里翻滚成黑黝黝的样子，青葱也留着三分清新的绿，一口下去，是肉和面最销魂的化学反应。

炒麦面不要圆面不要细面，要的是那种干到毫无韧劲的扁麦面，用肉丝和绿豆芽炒到面条微焦，直到古铜色中泛着油光的标准配色，才可被人匆匆用筷子调散了塞进嘴里。讲究点的，稍稍加些浙醋和水辣酱，更有一股子爽洁的口感。

小学时，我最喜欢的早餐是象山东塘山路丹城二小门口的光面，5毛钱，仅有猪油和老酱油，一搅拌，撒几颗葱花引个路，香绝了一颗少女的心。运气好的话还能看到心仪的男同学也坐在隔壁桌边打喷嚏边吃面，其人设立马崩塌。

如今客人到象山，早起总要带他们去吃一碗海鲜面，最早是中医院后门的大胖面馆，狭长的面馆，对着马路都是窗，窗下密密麻麻都是自行车，面价也从十几二十一路到百元，里面的食材也从几种扩张到了几十种，甚至连象山人不常吃的鲍鱼仔也位列其中。如今海鲜面店多如牛毛，也有零星开到其他城市的，但都因为对食材要求极高以致价格偏高，终还只是特色，无法成为他乡人的习惯。

若是在家吃，那就只有一种早餐：汤饭。隔夜的白米饭在滚水锅中略一沸腾就可以盛出来，放到温凉就可以开吃，汤水清澈甘甜，米粒颗颗分明，就着蘸了熟酱油的油条，呼噜噜滚下肚去，人就跟花一样被浇醒了。富裕一点的家庭，“过汤饭”的小菜那可多了，腐乳、榨菜、花生米、羊尾笋干、藠头等等。我最喜歡的是昨晚没吃完的红烧黄梅童，在冰箱里成了油润润的鱼冻，打一块塞在汤饭里头，连早晨的胃都爱腥气。

虾兵蟹将

海边的人可能都拥有海洋动物的舌头。

分辨海鲜近乎苛刻，热恋海鲜近乎变态。

去象山人家中吃饭，能有一两个蔬菜为你点缀，已经属于手下留情，狠心一点的主人，必定是满满当当整出一桌海鲜来，边吃边科普。

象山人的虾兵蟹将，首选的是白米虾，本地人叫小白虾，姜葱盐水一煮，鲜甜滑嫩。天气渐凉就开始吃对虾，上岸就用盐煮到半干，又大又红又鲜，吃不完怕什么，晒成虾干好贮藏，碰到非要吃蔬菜的时候，扔几个下去同煮，也是浓浓海味。再懂行一点的人，要买那种小网随便拖来的杂虾，里面有大有小，运气好的还有野生的黄漕虾，腿关节硬硬粗粗，肉质鲜美有异香。

一说蟹，在象山人的意识里，多数就是白蟹。梭子蟹的处女们——小娘蟹先上岸，夏天的日头下，快火一?，蟹壳边上散出一些焦香，把洁白的蟹肉丝丝缕缕拆出来沾上酱油，配一口滚烫的白米饭，可能就是举世无双的甜蟹饭了。小时候，空气中台风欲来的水气味道、六神花露水在竹席上的味道、杨梅烧酒消散的味道和小娘蟹略带焦气的甜香味道，是暑假的标配味道。过完夏天就要等蝤蛑上市，蝤蛑就是青蟹，老话说“八月蝤蛑抵只鸡”，等桂花开了，蝤蛑壳里就都是肉，拿来斩件裹上薄粉，热油姜丝快火一炒，加些茭白丝和干磨年糕条，出锅让你心里吃出根来。

海鱼的味道

东海海域因她的特殊位置，带来了远胜渤海、黄海、南海的冷暖洋流交汇区，海底丰富的营养被冲撞翻滚，以至于让这里的海鲜成为全世界最细腻鲜美的品种。

比如我最喜欢的带鱼。

带鱼的丰腴口感，源自其在深海的生存环境——扁平带状的体型以及为了抵御寒冷储存了极多的脂肪。

带鱼是那种无论任何烹饪，都能给厨子面子的鱼。

油煎，只需油热。

清蒸，只需水滚。

风干，只需风大。

多年前，在某个北方人制作的“生活小窍门”里看到介绍带鱼清洗的方法——是将带鱼身上的白鳞膜悉数洗去。我简直要穿过电视机屏幕去亲自阻止，那白光闪闪的鳞膜才是带鱼最丰富的灵魂所在啊。

象山石浦港还有一种做法，将极细的带鱼仔腌制成略带沤臭味的腌食，厌弃者可以拍桌子大骂一夜，而喜者却能添饭3碗，并取了一个文绉绉的名字：东海带鱼丝。

不过，若是有谁，能在冬至时节吃上一段用酱油热火急蒸的鲜带鱼，那可真算得上是神仙之福了。

象山爵溪曾是东海大黄鱼最大的交易市场，晒鲞是家家户户必备的技能，鲞厂也是散落各处盛极一时。只可惜，这类拥有三角骨会咕咕作响的经典鱼，几乎没有野生品种的存在了。现在能吃到的小（中）黄鱼也并不太多，小时候我也分不清黄三、黄婆鸡、白果子这类长得有些相像的鱼种，觉得是歪门邪道的李鬼鱼儿，后来才知道，虽然它们和大黄鱼的地位的确天差地别，但都胜在肉质极细嫩，汤食、干食都最能放大鲜味。

宴席上和黄鱼一样可以撑场面的，还有鲳鱼。象山人只爱银鲳，像过了长江很多人喜欢的金鲳几乎无人食用。一掌大小的银鲳最是美味，象山人管它叫白鳊，再小一点的叫“枫树叶”。白鳊适合红烧，也能切开了抱盐蒸食。“枫树叶”最好以酱油红蒸，红烧怕是找不到鲜嫩的鱼肉了。在象山爵溪，还有一种奇特的吃法，就是将银鲳用酒糟腌制起来，技法特殊，遍寻象山唯有爵溪人处理得了。等开封食用，急火快蒸，鱼皮完好但鱼肉和鱼骨已经呈绛色，鱼皮胶质尽出，绵软黏筷，鱼肉酒香扑鼻，鱼骨酥烂入味，是嗜咸族最爱的压饭之物。

象山人喜歡的鱼味还有一种是鮸鱼，俗称米鱼，头大色黑，看起来有点非洲裔海鱼的气质。好的鮸鱼都特别大，头拿来斩件红烧，大汤浓郁浓油赤酱的那种，身子切块用粗盐一腌，可以放冰箱储存几日，吃的时候姜片料酒大火快蒸，肉质弹软紧实，浓香又有嚼头。

I was born and brought up in Xiangshan， a coastal county in the middle of the coastline of Zhejiang Province. I spent my first 17 years in Xiangshan and the timeline of the years is punctuated by my experience of seafood. I was one year old when I had my first taste of a crab foot from a neighbor and almost choked. At five， I tasted big-head croaker for the first time and was able to spit out all the fish bones. My grandmother was proud of me. At 10， I mastered the skill of shelling the white shrimp in my mouth and spitting the shell within one minute. I thought I could qualify to show this stunt at the fishing season ceremony. At 12， I was able to distinguish fresh seafood from frozen seafood in my mouth. With rich experience of local food， I can even write chapters and volumes about cuisine and food-related customs in Xiangshan.

The best breakfast in Xiangshan， in my opinion， is steamed bun with meat stuffing and wheat noodle. When I grew up I fancied two steamed buns with meat stuffing and a bowl of wheat noodle at the gate of my primary school for breakfast. The meat stuffing is in old-time Ningbo style without a touch of soybean sauce. Nowadays， when guests come to visit me in Xiangshan， I take them to have a seafood noodle for breakfast. Years ago I took visitors to a noodle restaurant near the back gate of a traditional Chinese medicine hospital. The restaurant was a long space with windows on the street. The sidewalk was often packed by bicycles of the eaters in peak times. The restaurant offered noodles priced from 10 yuan up to more than 100 yuan. Such seafood noodle restaurants thrive in Xiangshan， but the seafood noodle restaurants business model that works in Xiangshan can hardly be copied successfully in cities too far away from seafood supplies.

People in Xiangshan have an almost abnormal passion for seafood. They are willing to say， at the first chance， that they love shrimps and crabs. If you are invited to a dinner at someones home， well， you will inevitably find yourself sit at a table heaped with seafood. If you are lucky enough， you find a plate of vegetable or two. In different seasons， shrimps and lobsters， small and big in size， are delicacies on the table. And people in Xiangshan also prefer crabs. To talk about crabs in different seasons and going with different wines can be a long lecture.

East China Sea offers better fish catches than in Bohai Sea， Yellow Sea and South China Sea. Of all the fish out of East China Sea， I like ribbonfish. No matter how you cook it， you can be proud of the ribbonfish you serve for your guests. It can be steamed， deep-fried， and dehydrated for future consumption. I remember my anger years ago when I was watching a television program in which a gourmet introduced how to clean a ribbonfish before it was cooked. When the gourmet said the silver coat of the ribbonfish must be removed， how I wished I could have put hands through the screen to stop him. In the seafood expertise of Xiangshan， the coat must be saved.

Another sea fish the people in Xiangshan prefer is the silvery pomfret. In Juexi， Xiangshan， the silvery pomfret is marinated with distillers grains and cured for some time before it is steamed and served. Only residents in Juexi know the secret of marinating the pomfret and curing it.