因鹤之鸣访国药圣地

姚桃娟

鸣鹤群山环绕，依山面湖，钟灵毓秀，自古以来名人辈出，人文荟萃，沉淀了深厚灿烂的地方文化。除了是国药从业者心中的圣地，一度也是浙东的文化中心。

鸣鹤位于浙江省慈溪市境内，与旧时慈溪县治慈城横隔连绵的大隐五磊山脉。与国内其他古镇依河而建不同，鸣鹤古镇依白洋湖而建——濒白洋湖、杜若湖，近接上林湖。清代著名诗人、画家姚燮在《白湖吟舍雅集序》中赞叹道：“是湖也，为勾章西北一大胜，其南大隐、五磊诸峰蜿蜒亘数百余里，至是而势一束，北则伏龙诸山，遥遥作屏障。天风海云，时挟清气，往来于其间，为林泉之幽邃，花鸟之绵丽，有无待言。”可见其地理风水之佳。

鸣鹤，也称鹤皋，始建于唐开元年间，因唐名臣虞世南之孙虞九皋而得名。“九皋，字鸣鹤，第进士不久而殁于京，乡人哀之，称其故里为鸣鹤。”唐宋时为浙东主要盐场，明洪武十五年（1392年）设鸣鹤盐课司，所以当地人多称为“鸣鹤场”。鸣鹤群山环绕，依山面湖，钟灵毓秀，自古以来名人辈出，人文荟萃，沉淀了深厚灿烂的地方文化。

竹枝词里看鸣鹤

“三板红舩独橹摇，春风游女尚垂髫。东西一一逢桥数，记取陡塘第七桥。”从镇东南滨湖进入，在湖堤与街河转折处可看到一座拱形石桥，这就是陡塘桥。古老的石拱桥，似乎在诉说着岁月的沧桑。从陡塘桥到沙滩桥，依河长街约有百米多长，廊棚相连，两岸商铺鳞次栉比，依稀可见当年河中舟楫、河上石桥、河边商贸的热闹场景，依稀可闻耳畔响起“我家住在白湖涯，湖水东流斜复斜。记得静观楼夜月，尊前一曲浪淘沙”的竹枝棹歌。

白湖竹枝词由清时鸣鹤人叶声闻首倡，时人相和，“缮稿成轶，题咏如林”，现存的包括叶声闻、叶愚、叶元垲等所作计有92首。白湖竹枝词以民歌形式，多视角展示了鸣鹤的田园风光、农作市肆、岁时风俗、湖上风物、人物掌故，是一幅幅由文字展示的《清明上河图》。

“水接双河潋滟开，江分两邑只山隈。天明塘上声喧闹，趋市姚人续续来”“白虾青蟹一时贵，小艇迎来贩客多”“晓来抱来街头去，换得青蚨籴米盐”“海鲜河羹多来集，卖向街头换米柴”，展示了沿河市肆的热闹繁华、物产富饶，以及集市在当地的吸引力。

“三更姑恶苇边啼，两岸茅居竹作篱;梅子熟时看播谷，楝花开后听缫丝”“湖头大麦已登场，湖尾齐齐小麦黄”“夕阳一片樵歌起，得得挑来夏白柴”“篱下篝灯夜纺棉，织成广幅赛吴缣”，向我们描绘了旧时鸣鹤的田园景象及生活劳动场景。

“蜂须蝶粉闹春华，夹岸芬芳桃李家”“饷客莫嫌无长物，湖中美味有银鱼”“满村红爛杨梅熟”、“次第薰风拂芰荷”，湖上风物涌入眼前。

“怪道游人如蚁集，今年社火胜前年”“一簇红妆闻笑语，湖西山下踏青归”“正值中秋明月夜，阗阗箫鼓闹龙舟”，展现了社火明灭、游人如蚁的岁时民俗风情。

白湖竹枝词里还有着鸣鹤丰富的人文历史掌故。“西山大隐著先声，西信庵前石亦清;不道前贤栖迹处，还教岩岫共埋名”，说隐山为宋令方轸栖居处，故名隐山。自古隐山多隐士，晋有虞喜，宋有方轸，并因此而出名。还有说金仙寺的：“古寺庄严法象雄，一联佳句忆罗公”;有说金仙寺米芾碑、昙噩碑的：“碑传米芾见应稀，昙噩犹存藓作衣”;有说明代杜光禄祠的“歼倭光禄有奇勋，主簿分麾力亦勤”、明代彭公祠的“桥转沙滩迤逦长，彭公祠外水汪洋”。这些志士仁人、文人墨客，为湖光山色增光添辉。

六房大屋故事多

从彭公祠前折而向西，过沙滩桥，有一条东西流向的河与街相交。往南看，濒白洋湖一抹山丘;往西看，略呈弧形的隐山如曲臂环抱，在山水回环中，就是白湖竹枝词中所写的“烟火一望数千家”。一座座毗邻而立的豪宅大院，仿佛诉说着鸣鹤曾经的繁华富足甚至奢侈。

这些建筑大部分都是清乾嘉年间鸣鹤人经营药业发家致富后，回乡购地建宅留下来的。那时鸣鹤十户有八九户外出谋生，他们亲帮亲、邻帮邻，带出去开药铺，足迹遍及省内外，开张的药铺店号难计其数，带动起一个红红火火的医药产业。温州叶同仁前身同仁堂，是叶心培家族的;杭州叶种德堂前身种德堂，是叶谱山创办的……所以至今业内还流传着“全国药业出浙江，浙江药业在鸣鹤”的说法，鸣鹤成为国药从业者心中的圣地。

鸣鹤叶氏素称东南望族，“自宋季迁居于鹤皋以来，读书为士君子者麻列”，至清乾嘉年间，叶氏一族尤以国药业和诗文闻名遐迩。“慈水叶意亭比部居鹤山之麓，昆弟六人，曰艾庵，曰白湖，曰谱山，曰星五，皆有诗名，比部其季也，门才之能为邑首。”以医药产业为经济基础，叶氏家族建书院立诗社，诗书传家，风流文采照耀一时。

今天如走在青石板小巷，留意一下门牌号，你会发现“三房路”“五房路”“六房路”等字样，其间坐落着六座豪宅大院，被称为“叶六房大屋”，这是鸣鹤国药巨子叶天霖为六房儿子建造的。

三房葉燕，字载之，号白湖，又号次庵，嘉庆三年举人，候选教谕。著有《白湖诗稿》《林湖草》等。据《慈溪县志》记载：“（叶燕）少负异禀，为文千言立就。长从鄞蒋学镛游，为根柢之学，涉猎经史，穷理极要。”曾师从宁波宿儒蒋学镛，爱憎分明，爱打抱不平，在《白湖诗稿》中时不时地用诗怼人。

在兄弟六房中，个性豪爽慷慨仗义的是四房“四太公”叶焕。叶焕（1757-1820），字春阳，号谱山，曾任长芦（天津）盐运司运判、刑部山东司郎中，有诗集《水石居遗稿》。叶焕能文能武，亦官亦商，长于谋事，又有魄力担当，在家族内外享有极高的威望，时人尊为“四太公”。他年轻时治经应试，后因长于处理各种事务，叶天霖就把家政大事交给他，让他“内训诫子弟，外接待宾友”。42岁后科考出仕，为长芦（天津）盐运司运判，十几年后又迁为刑部山东司郎中。江苏无锡人吴德旋在《墓表》中写叶谱山：“晚岁留意读方书，专拯人厄。有告之疾，亲持药饵，往为诊脉，视所宜用药药之，以为常。嗣后张药肆於杭州署，堂曰种德。以见意焉。”体现了他仗义慷慨、乐善好施的个性。

叶谱山鲜明的个性特征，常被兄弟写入诗中。他任长芦（天津）盐运司运判时，曾写信给小弟叶炜，大概意思是嫌那地方太穷了，吃没吃的，穿没穿的，四兄我不想干了。叶炜写诗回复他：“天津风景似江南，亥市人稠百物廉。犹记去年系舟处，压街鱼蟹贱于盐。”你说这四兄安不安分？

葉谱山大概是在嘉庆十三年（1808年）辞官后，在杭州开种德堂的，那年他已54岁，在此年龄再闯江湖创办药铺，可见他的魄力自信和对当时国药业整个业态的掌控与驾驭能力。堂名“种德”取苏东坡《种德亭》诗“名随市人隐，德与佳木长”意。种德堂自制丸散膏药，经营地道药材，闻名浙、赣、皖、闽等省，成为当时整个杭州国药业的翘楚。种德堂现称杭州叶种德堂，已并入胡庆余堂，其店堂原貌尚存。

叶谱山的后人中，有个叫叶鸿年的，生平仗义疏财，热心社会公益，先后捐资万余金，疏浚家乡白洋湖，重修佛国金仙寺。至今民间还有“盐仓挖空，叶鸿年督工”的说法。他重视地方教育，创立敬乐小学和柔强女子学校，得到孙中山的嘉勉，赠送“年高德劭”金字匾额一块。其作派真可谓与乃祖一脉相承。

“孝悌忠信”是中国人为人处世的基本原则，“悌”即尊敬兄长，兄弟和睦。叶氏六兄弟拥有优越的生活条件，可以称得上是“富二代”。但他们并没有骄纵蛮横的坏毛病，“家富而性高雅，不染豪华习气”。他们孝亲睦友，勤勉刻苦，乐善好施，行德乡里。

据《慈溪县志》记载：“（叶炜）独任白湖堤及杜湖两碶一闸，用白金千两有奇，一岁工竣。”“炜建白湖堤方竣而没，元墀承志复筑杜湖石堤，未成，又没。遗命其弟元堦竞之，乡人德焉。”叶炜修筑完白湖堤后，去世了;他儿子叶元墀继承他的遗志继续修筑杜湖石堤，还没有完成，也去世了;其弟叶元堦又继续父兄修筑湖堤的遗志，继续修筑。叶炜父子修筑湖堤的事迹，就如愚公移山，子承父志，弟承兄志，下定决心，坚持到底，生命不息，筑堤不止，其事迹充满了改造自然的悲壮情怀，令人动容。

经过两百多年的时光激荡，眼前的六房大屋仅余下几幢还保有原貌，让人凭吊伤怀。但如果我们知道其中的故事，那么眼前的大屋就不只是冷冰冰的砖瓦椽梁，而是有温度、有故事的栖居家园，空气中都弥漫着主人的欢笑悲歌、跫音触痕，他们就是我们的“前人”“古人”。注视着他们远去的背影，我们当心怀敬仰和感恩。

风雅谁比白湖社

“四围山色四时清，一派湖光一镜平。曾向镜湖亭畔过，鸥飞阁上读书声。”白洋湖、杜若湖碧波荡漾，孕育滋养了鸣鹤灿烂的历史文化。两百年前，鸣鹤叶氏士子就在白洋湖畔结社吟诗，一门倡和，名动浙东，构成了鸣鹤最风雅最美丽的风景。

鸣鹤叶氏素为慈东望族，清时更以药业和诗文名闻一时，出现父子同为进士、举人，父子、兄弟、伯侄同为诗人的奇迹。叶天霖有六个儿子，这兄弟六人除长兄叶荣外，皆有诗名，老二叶声闻、老三叶燕、老四叶谱山、老五叶灿、老六叶炜，皆有诗集问世。时人评价道：“兄弟一门相酬倡，或乘兴与二三知己放棹白湖，挈杯传花吟啸风月，见者有宗之太白。”

至下一代元字辈，文风尤盛，叶炜儿子叶元墀、叶元堦在他父亲和几位伯父的影响下，在鸣鹤主盟成立白湖诗社，吸引了当时浙东名家姚燮、厉志、孙家谷的积极参与。自嘉庆元年到道光年间，白湖诗社繁荣发展约40余年。在此期间，诗人们“运斗以酌，扣舷而唱”，诗歌创作一派繁荣，吟诗作文，结集刻印的作品多达32种近80卷，为浙东诗坛佳话。

此外，叶氏白湖诗社成员凭着家族雄厚的经济实力和精准的艺术眼光，还收藏了大量的字画精品。叶声闻的儿子叶元封，爱好作诗，著有《湖海阁诗稿》，他于道光年间刻成《湖海阁藏帖》八卷流传至今。《湖海阁藏帖》共刻石九十一方，囊括了明清七十七位书家的作品，堪称洋洋大观。而帖中书家，以江浙一带的名家名作为多。如：有明代沈度小楷《大悲阁记》、王守仁行书《论聚会规程》、祝允明行书《桑寄生传》、文徵明小楷《滕王阁序并诗》、董其昌行书《书王维、岑参、杜甫七律诗》，有清代姜宸英小楷《圣驾巡行江浙颂》、王士祯行书《与老年兄书》、郑燮行书《题画兰》等。藏帖同时烙下了家族文化的印记，在第八卷中刻入叶声闻的数件作品，如行书《寄怀四香、少仙二词长》、行书《白湖竹枝词三十首》等。

白洋湖畔，诗文书画，妙笔生花，可谓极一时之盛。湖光山色，诗画增辉，吸引了甬、绍、杭等地文人名士，徜徉湖光云影间，成为浙东文化一时的中心。

浙东名家蒋宝龄曾在道光十五年（1835）作《白湖秋泛图》，题诗曰：“两峰入烟远逾碧，一水涵空夜还白;胜情谁及贤弟昆，载酒清游复招客……”展现了鸣鹤白湖的诗情画意。

今日漫步白洋湖畔，看湖面波光如鳞，回想前辈乡贤的用心歌吟，感受他们的魂魄精神，正所谓：山水依旧，诗歌不老。

Minghe is an ancient town in Cixi， a municipality in eastern Zhejiang. It is not far from Cicheng， the capital of Cixi County in good old days. Unlike many ancient towns nestled along a river， Minghe is next to Baiyang Lake and Duruo Lake and not far from Shanglin Lake， one of the better known lakes in eastern Zhejiang.

The town is named after Yu Minghe， a grandson of Yue Shinan who was a celebrated minister and calligrapher of the Tang Dynasty （618-907）. The grandson died young shortly after he came out a winner in the imperial examination. He died in Changan， the capital of the dynasty. The people in his hometown in Cixi mourned him and named the town after him.

The name remains unchanged. The scenic beauty of Minghe remains vivid and fascinating in numerous ancient poems that have come down into history. Ninety-two poems written in the Qing Dynasty （1644-1911） were dedicated to Minghe. These poems sing of the cultural and historical glory of the lakeside town.

Today， the lakes remain scenic. Some grand houses built in the Qing Dynasty still stand to testify to the past glory of the town. These grand houses were largely built in the late 18th century and early 19th century with the wealth earned by local businesspeople that operated traditional pharmacies in both Zhejiang and beyond.

In the past， a typical traditional Chinese pharmacy functioned like a modern pharmaceutical and pharmacy in one. They had recipes and produced medicines. They purchased and processed herbals so that pharmacies catered to patients who came to get medicines prescribed by doctors who practiced traditional Chinese medicine （TCM）. TCM pharmacies in Zhejiang led the whole country in the Qing Dynasty. And of all the TCM pharmacies of Zhejiang， those operated by pharmacy businesspeople in Minghe were industrial pioneers.

The success of Minghe as a powerhouse of pharmacy operations can be attributed to education and business tradition in town. Many people in town were well educated. Some successfully passed imperial examination and became government officials. Though many well-educated natives of Minghe became pharmacy operators， some of them were also poets， as testified by poems they left behind.

Most of these grand houses in the town were built by successful TCM pharmacy tycoons. The best known of these tycoons were six brothers of the Ye clan. The six brothers built six houses next to each other. These houses were financed and built for the six sons by Ye Tianlin， the TCM pharmacy tycoon. Of the six brothers， five wrote poems. They organized a poetry society and many scholars in eastern Zhejiang were members of the society. The society printed 32 titles of poetry collections in nearly 80 volumes. The Ye clan not only produced TCM pharmacy tycoons and poets but also some art collectors. Based on the precious masterpieces in the collection， an eight-book calligraphy collection was printed in the mid 19th century. In the first few decades of the 19th century， Minghe was a cultural center in eastern Zhejiang.

Of the six brothers， Ye Pushan started his pharmacy business in Hangzhou at 54 after he gave up his government career in 1808. The pharmacy made a great variety of TCM drugs which sold pretty well in Zhejiang and neighboring provinces. Processed herbal ingredients contributed a great deal to the pharmacys profitability and reputation.

Minghe， now a provincial town of culture and history， the only one of its kind in Cixi， is more than grand houses and TCM pharmacies. Jinxian Temple， a Buddhist sanctuary in town on Baiyang Lake， can be traced back to the sixth century. Before TCM pharmacy business became the dominant pillar of the towns economy， Minghe was a farm products trade center. In the early Ming Dynasty （1368-1644）， the town housed a government office dedicated to salt production administration as Minghe is not far from the sea. The pharmacy business in Minghe prospered in the Qing dynasty. Today， a TCM museum in town exhibits over 150 trademarks of herbal medicines made by pharmaceutical/pharmacy businesses based in Minghe and beyond.