机场?秀场!
Fashion comes and goes in a circle.
Six decades have past since “Jet Set” fi rst dazzled the fashion circle. And now it’s back again.
American fashion critic Diana Vreeland once said: “The eye has to travel.”
And to urbanites staring at a computer screen all day, an escape to the beach in the summer is no doubt what we all deserve.
时尚是一场周而复始的轮回。
距离“空中度假风”首创已经过去6个世纪。而今年,这个潮流再次席卷全球,各大时装品牌不惜成本地排兵布阵,纷纷将秀场布置成机场、游轮和海岛。美国时尚教主戴安娜·弗里兰说过,“眼睛需要去旅行”。而对于终日生活在水泥森林的都市人来说,夏季正是打扮时髦去旅行的最佳季节。
In the 1950s, fl ying was only a luxury exclusive to the upper class. During the summer time, the royal and the rich would dress themselves casually, and take a private jet to the beach and parties. This style was later called “Jet Set”.
As artist Andy Warhol said, the invention of the jet plane changed both New Yorkers' party life and the upper class's dressing style. The best example of this style is Jacqueline Kennedy, “the most beautiful fi rst-lady” in the American people's eyes. Her famous look was when she wore tailor-made dresses or wide leg trousers, and casually wrapped up her lustrous hair in a silk scarf. The moment she steped out of the plane, fl ashes started to go off, and soon her look would be the most talked about subject for fashion magazines.
Since then, the“Jet Set”style has become a permanent resident in the fashion industry. Revolving around the“Jet Set”, designers bring out costumes of different seasons every year, such as “Resort/Cruise Style” and “Pre-Fall Style”.
Among all the Hollywood stars and celebrities that have their airport snaps taken every summer, Victoria Beckham is de fi nitely the leading fashion trendsetter for of fi ce ladies. To her, a wise investment in fashion products would be to spend on simple and practical high-quality items.
Pop-star Rihanna, on the other hand, brings “High Street Fusion Style” to the public's eyes. Her “Jet Set” would involve mixing up major luxury brands with high street fashion brands or even sports brands. Rihanna represents the “new era” of fashion, in which there is no clear ranking system for beauty, while every individual interprets his/her own rules and labels differently. One can either dress like an orthodox “Jetsetter”, or simply go for the“Off-duty Style”: takes a break from make-up and wears a baseball cap. To some extent, the evolution of “Jet Set” also re fl ects the change in fashion.
在上世纪50年代,欧陆旅行还是个非常时髦的概念,上流社会的名流名媛们穿着休闲地乘坐私人飞机去一些普通人没去过的海岸度假或者游走于各大盛会和派对之间,这种穿衣风格被称为“空中度假风(Jet Set)”。
艺术家安迪·沃霍尔曾说过:“上世纪60年代喷气式飞机的出现改变了纽约的派对生活,也改变了上流社会的穿着风格。”而这种风格的最佳代表就是美国人心目中最美的第一夫人杰奎琳·肯尼迪。她是全世界时髦女性的模仿对象。她用高级丝巾不经意地包住她那充满光泽的秀发,身穿剪裁考究的洋装或帅气的阔腿裤装,手提质感奢华的手袋,优雅地迈出飞机舱门,吸引各大媒体的闪光灯与赞美。
其实,旅行中追求时髦造型的摩登旅客们早就引起了时装设计师们的注意,这也是他们从以前开发一年两季(春夏、秋冬)到现在开发出一年多季服装包括度假、早秋系列的原因之一。而诸如好莱坞明星的机场造型的机场街拍文化更是令时尚度假风火热得一发不可收。维多利亚·贝克汉姆就是其中佼佼者,如果杰奎琳·肯尼迪代表着上世纪的名媛风,那么贝嫂就是当今摩登都会简约干练的职业女性代表。她告诉我们将金钱投资在精简、实用、优质的单品上更为重要。而新一代潮流偶像蕾哈娜则宣告着高街混搭时代的来临,她的机场造型总是随性地将时装大牌和街头潮牌或者运动品牌混搭。在新世代眼里,时尚没有高低贵贱,自我的演绎粉碎了各种标签和规则,旅行时可以盛装打扮,只为取悦自己,也可以一个口罩与世界隔离,用棒球帽加素颜淡定地演绎下班后的穿搭。从某种程度上说,机场时尚的演变也反映了时尚文化的潮流变迁。
Sunshine + Denim = Summer
Jeans used to be the outcasts of the luxury world, but now even the top luxury brands have started to use denim as material. Some are printed with delicate patterns, some are cleaned-up and strapless, while some other denim-on-denim are cool and loose.
牛仔变奏
阳光加丹宁总是带着夏天的味道。曾几何时,牛仔单品难以登上大雅之堂,而如今即使最奢侈的时装品牌也会拿丹宁做文章。不满足于背带裤、A字裙这种基本款,时装品牌纷纷在设计上响起了变奏,在全身牛仔服上印上精致的印花图案或将牛仔布以硬朗的方式包装,在剪裁上也巧花心思,加入宽松廓形或者露肩的设计。
Sporty Fusion
In 2016, fusion style is the new favourite. Sports style is no longer just sneakers and baseball cap. Instead, pull-overs can go with maxi dresses, while polo shirts can be made feminine, casual, and even sexy.
运动混搭
在追求个性的年代,谁说运动风就一定要穿球鞋戴棒球帽? 混搭才是高衣Q的表现,例如将运动套头衫搭配拖地长裙,或是为Polo衫注入女性化特质,在贴身剪裁的网布长裙上注入荷叶边,由此看上去慵懒随性,刚柔并济。
Tropical Look
Nothing suits tropical backgrounds better than floral-patterned long dresses. Decorated with brightcoloured tropical flowers, those chiffon full-length dresses are going to make you look like a charming fairy.
花式度假
没有什么比印花长裙更具假日风情的了。花卉图案满载异域风情,艳丽的热带印花铺满长裙;轻薄的雪纺材质完美展现婀娜的姿态,长及脚踝的裙摆让你行走间仙气飘飘、风情万种。
Navy Style
The ocean never ceases to inspire the “Cruise Style” designers. As an essential for any summer wardrobe, a striped sailor dress in navy blue is always going to stay classic and fashionable. And this season, “Navy Style” is featured with “off-shoulder” or“one-shoulder”.
情迷航海
大海永远是度假风的灵感之所在,而航海风更是春夏衣橱必备之选。经久不衰的海军条纹、海军蓝等元素历久弥新。今季选择的重点在于露出颈部到香肩的迷人线条,无论是一字肩露出美丽的锁骨还是低调性感的单肩装都是夏季最清爽的吸睛造型。
THE AIRPORT AS STAGE
Text by Cherry Shao Translation by Madz