一桌不简单的饭

一桌不简单的饭

A MEAL THAT IS NOT SIMPLE

The Chinese New Year's Eve Meal is no simple meal.The respect for heaven, earth and gods, the hope for prosperity, the gratitude for nature, the deep love for the hometown, are all included in the orders, dishes, ingredients and the scale of this meal

Text by Ge Rufeng&Lan Xiaojiang Translation by Tao Wenjia Photos by Zeng Jian Special thanks to The Ritz-Carlton Guangzhou 拍摄协助：广州富力丽思卡尔顿酒店

Roasted Suckling Pig and roasted goose are necessities for the Cantonese.Those dishes are first used as sacrificial offerings for Gods and ancestors, then people will share the dishes.The most difficult part of the pig to cook is the pigskin.Normally, the BBQ sauce needs to be applied a day before, and you have to be careful about the cooking temperature.The best pigskins are crispy and tender.——demonstrated by Guo Yuanfeng (Executive Chinese Cheaf,The Ritz-Carlton Guangzhou)

烤乳猪、烧鹅，是广东人过大节时必备的食物。先用来敬神、祭祖，而后分食。烤乳猪最难的是皮，通常要提前一天刷酱料处理，烤时要注意火候，皮焦肉嫩最好吃。——郭元峰 制作讲解（广州富力丽思卡尔顿酒店，中餐行政总厨）年夜饭，不是普通的一餐。在它的序次、菜式、食材、规模中，蕴含着中国人对天地神的敬畏，对家族兴旺的期许，对自然的感恩，对一方水土的恋恋深情。

ETIQUETTE: SHARE THE MEAL WITH GODS

There are many traditional rules about the Spring Festival feast.From these ceremonial traditions, you can sneak a peek at the tip of the iceberg that is the traditional Chinese Culture.You should have porridge for Laba Festival, dumplings on New Year's Eve, Glutinous Rice Balls on the 15th of the fi rst month of the lunar calendar.There are rules about when to eat what, and each rule has its special meaning, such as worshipping gods, staying up late through the New Year, and family togetherness.The culture of worshipping ancestors and gods are presented in the New Year's Eve, too.In many places, you have to light up fi recrackers before the meal, and put up a few dishes fi rst to allow ancestors and gods to taste fi rst to show people's respect.

礼仪：人神共飨

春节年饭有许多讲究，从这些仪式感极强的习俗中当能窥探中国传统文化的冰山一角。腊八节煮腊八粥，年三十晚上吃饺子，正月十五闹元宵煮汤圆，何时吃什么都有规定，每个规定背后都有其特别的意义，比如祭神、守岁、团圆。中国人敬奉祖先、神明的文化在年夜饭当中也有体现，在中国许多地方，开饭前需鸣放鞭炮，烹制好的菜肴需取少量置于盘中，让祖先、神明先享用，以示敬重。

年夜饭又叫团圆饭，一家人围坐一处，共进晚餐。一家之主主位坐定，余者按照年纪、辈分依次入座，以示长幼有序。上菜同样有序，先冷盘，即开胃菜，之后是主菜，中国人认为偶数是吉数，因此主菜数量也多为六、八、十六等偶数。主菜之后，以汤收尾。用餐者身前摆放诸多器皿，筷子、汤匙、汤碗、茶杯、酒杯等等，这一系列的餐具要与菜品搭配。

The pronunciation of fish is the same with "abundance" in Chinese, so fish dishes represent the hope of harvest and abundance for the next year.The fish dish on the New Year's feast needs to keep the head, tail and the general form of the fish for better luck.-demonstrated by Guo Yuanfeng

鱼与“余”同音，代表丰收富足，也是年饭上必备的菜。过年吃鱼，一定要留头留尾，保证完整的形状。——郭元峰 制作讲解

The pronunciation of fish is the same with "abundance" in Chinese, so fish dishes represent the hope of harvest and abundance for the next year.The fish dish on the New Year's feast needs to keep the head, tail and the general form of the fish for better luck.-demonstrated by Guo Yuanfeng

鱼与“余”同音，代表丰收富足，也是年饭上必备的菜。过年吃鱼，一定要留头留尾，保证完整的形状。——郭元峰 制作讲解

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ALLEGORY: IN THE NAME OF GOOD FORTUNE.

During the Spring Festival, Chinese have their best meals on the table with all kinds of delicacies.Each dish has a different meaning, in which the special features of the local cuisine are re fl ected.Chinese care a lot about having a good beginning to make a good sign for the whole activity.Not surprisingly, the New Year cooking has lots of dishes of auspiciousness.The Chinese give every dish an auspicious name that means good luck in the coming year.They wish everyone to be happy, healthy, safe and successful.

The names of auspicious dishes are created either because they look like certain auspicious things, or because the pronunciations are similar.For example, in North China, people boil dumplings and noodles together and name it“Gold string through shoe-shaped silver ingot.”In South China, people cook fi sh for the hope that there will be more than abundant resources in the coming year.There are also dishes called“ fi ve blessings”, “Three Sheep for luck”, and“Opportunity Knocks”, etc.All are named after certain auspicious pronunciations and shapes for good luck.“fi ve blessings”,“Three Sheep for luck”, and“Opportunity Knocks , etc.All are named after certain auspicious pronunciations and shapes for“Opportunity Knocks””, etc.All are named after certain auspicious pronunciations and shapes for

寓意：以福为名

春节，中国人的餐桌上摆着满汉全席、各类珍馐，每道菜肴都有不一样的含义，当地的饮食特色在其中都会有所体现。诸事开始之际，中国人讲究讨个好彩头。因此春节烹饪的众多美食也大多有说道，这便是新年吉祥菜。中国人为烹制好每一道菜品取一个吉祥的名字，寓意新年新气象，新的一年吉祥安康，万事顺利。

吉祥菜的名字或象形，或谐音。如，北方人春节将饺子与面条同煮，取名“金丝穿元宝”。南方人做鱼，称之“年年有余”。此外还有五福临门、三阳开泰、鸿运当头等诸多菜品，皆是据食材的品名、形状、搭配，取其吉祥安康之意。

TIME：FAREWELL TO WINTER AND WELCOME TO SPRING

The Lunar New year coincides with winter, so seasonal ingredients are limited.Cabbage and radish are the most common vegetables, but of course there is also chicken, duck, fi sh and seafood.Bamboo shoots, chrysanthemum and Lotus root, bolt, and other seasonal vegetables also become delightful healthy dishes alongside ones of meat.Such dishes are welcomed by Chinese nowadays.

Before the time when chicken, duck, fi sh, and seafood could be found on the tables of ordinary people, Chinese were smart enough to save some food for the most important meal of the year.Ham, bacon, salted fi sh, seasoned duck, dried radish, and sour bamboo shoot, all became delicacies on the dinner table during Spring Festival.

Meanwhile, as the most sign ifi cant feast of the year, The Spring Festival feast has all the best ingredients.Livestock is one important feature of the agricultural culture of China.Every year, in Northeast China, farmers tend to slaughter a oneyear piglet for different dishes to thank the family and friends who have been working hard for a whole year.In coastal areas, succulent seafood is processed into various forms to be made into various delicious dishes.

For people today who care more and more about healthy meal, vegetables became more and more important for the New Year's feast.During the Spring Festival, Chinese cabbage and mushrooms are the most seasonal vegetables.- demonstrated by Guo Yuanfeng

对于越来越注重养生的现代人，蔬菜是一桌荤腥外，最不可少的部分。过年时节，大白菜、菌类正是好吃的时候。——郭元峰 制作讲解

时令：送冬迎春

春节适逢冬季，当季食材有限。除了鸡鸭鱼肉和海鲜，大白菜、萝卜是最常见的蔬菜。冬笋、蒿菜、莲藕、菜苔、菌菇等时令蔬菜，也成了满桌荤腥中，亮眼的存在，颇受讲究养生的现代人欢迎。

在那些鸡鸭鱼肉、海鲜难入寻常百姓家和反季节蔬菜尚未出现的年代，中国人就利用自己的聪明才智将部分食材留存至一年中最重要的春节享用。火腿、腊肉、腌鱼、酱鸭、萝卜干、酸笋……都成为春节中国人餐桌上的美味。

同时，作为一年当中分量最足的盛宴，中国人往往奉献出最重要的食材。豢养牲畜是中国农耕文明的一大特点，在中国东北，逢年关，农户往往将豢养一年的肥猪宰杀，做成杀猪菜，犒劳忙碌了一整年的全家和亲朋。而在沿海地区，冬季肥美的海鲜早早被处理成各种形式，组合成多样美味。

Add brown sugar into the glutinous rice cake not only helps to make a moderate level of sweetness, but also good for one's health.This way of cooking conforms with the Chinese philosophy of food.- demonstrated by Guo Yuanfeng

年糕里加黑糖，不但甜味适度，而且有补身的效果，符合中国人吃的哲学。——郭元峰 制作讲解

PEOPLE: HAPPILY TOGETHER

Dim Sum and deserts are normally the fi nal course of the New Year's Eve dinner.After enjoying a big feast, a bowl of TangYuan, or a piece of sticky glutinous rice cake are like a dot to complete the year of hard work.At this time, the atmosphere of the whole table will be much more relaxed.People start to chat about everything and nothing, no more orders nor etiquette.The younger generation wish the elders the best next year, and the elders give "red packets" to the young with some treats.It's the happiest time of the year for children.They bring their treats on the street to compare and share with their friends.As such, the happiness expands from a family, to a street, to a village, and to a city.

In Guangdong area, the 7th of the fi rst month is the day of man.On this day, people invite their relatives and friends home to have dinner together so their bonds will be stronger.On the 15th, there will be shows and dragon lantern performances in villages before a huge feast for the whole village.Only after that does the New Year celebration come to an end.

人情：甜蜜欢聚

点心和甜品，通常是年饭中的最后一道。享受了一整桌的盛宴后，来一碗热乎的汤圆，或者一块又黏又滑的年糕，就像给这辛苦的一年，画上完满甜蜜的句号。这时的人们已然酒酣耳热，开始各自说着亲热话，不再拘泥于开席时的座次和礼仪。小辈们开始向长辈们说吉祥话拜年，长辈们将准备好的红包塞给小辈们，随手总不忘再加上几个点心。这是孩子们一年最快乐的时候。他们迫不及待地带着点心走到街道上，与邻居的小伙伴们比赛、分食各家的美味。年中的人情味，也从一家一户，延伸到一条街、一个村、一座城。

在广东，在初七有过“人日”的习惯。这一天，在家里摆上几十围酒，请亲戚好友、同行至交，也是一种情感的交流和沟通。年十五很多地方更要做大戏、舞龙灯，然后，全村全族一起享用隆重盛大的聚餐，这个“年”才算真正过完了。