Ｌｈａｓａ，Ｌａｎｄ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ Ｇｏｄｓ

Ｂｙ　ｓｔａｆｆ　ｒｅｐｏｒｔｅｒ　ＺＨＡＮＧ　ＸＩＷＥＮ

DAZZLING sunshine radiates from a cloudless sky; gilded temples with dim butter lamps flickering inside day and night sprawl along rolling snow-capped mountains; pilgrims, whirling prayer-wheels in hand, throw themselves flat on the ground with every step they take towards shrines as prayer-banners flutter overhead. These are the kinds of sights that distinguish Lhasa, capital of Tibet Autonomous Region, from any other city in the world.

Though constructions of steel and concrete have appeared in the 1,300-year-old city, none can challenge the grandeur of Potala Palace, visible from any spot in the city. The palace attracts swarms of Buddhists and tourists every year.

Lhasa means “holy land” or “land of the gods” in Tibetan. The city was originally called Rasa, a combination of Ra, meaning goat, and Sa, meaning earth. The name derives from a story related to the construction of Jokhang Monastery. In the 7th century Songtsen Gampo planned to build the capital of his Tubo Kingdom in a valley, whose outline resembled a recumbent Raksasi, or she-demon. The kings wife Wencheng, a princess of the Tang monarchy, proposed building a palace and a temple on the demons head and heart respectively. Potala Palace soon rose where the devils head was supposed to be. But on the spot holding her heart lay a fathomless lake. Over many months earth was carried in by goats to fill the body of water, but progress was slow. One day the goats jumped into the lake to fill it with their own bodies. Their sacrifice so moved the Buddha that the chasm magically folded, and Jokhang Monastery was soon built on the site.

With the growing prominence of Jokhang Monastery, more and more Buddhist monks and followers streamed in, many from neighboring countries such as India and Bangladesh. Consequently more temples, hotels and homes were built in the area. Meanwhile Potala Palace was expanded, giving more buzz to the rising city on the plateau, which gradually got a new name: Lhasa.

The Tubo Dynasty tumbled in the mid-9th century. During the same period a Buddhism-cleansing movement flared across Tibet, resulting in the closure of all Buddhist shrines, including Jokhang. Lhasa lost its political and religious weight, and didnt regain ituntil centuries later. In 1409 Tsongkhapa, founder of the Gelug Sect, convened the Great Summons Ceremony in Lhasa. He gradually expanded his influence to the whole plateau, and established a theocratic regime. Lhasa has remained a regional capital to the present day.

Sights in Lhasa

Potala Palace

The palace is perched 3,770 meters above sea level on Marbori Mountain (or Red Mountain) in central Lhasa. It is the highest and largest palace complex on Earth. Potala means “the island where Avalokitesvara lives” in Sanskrit. Before 1959 the compound served as the residence and office of the Dalai Lamas, making it the heart of Tibets theocracy. Since the 7th century it had been inhabited by nine Tibetan kings and 10 Dalai Lamas. The main buildings are the White Palace (the living quarters) in the east, and the Red Palace (comprising stupas of the Dalai Lamas and Buddhist shrines) in the center. The tall white-painted wall in front of the Red Palace is the Sunning Buddha Stage, where giant Buddhist paintings are hung during religious festivals. A panoramic view of the city can be seen from here. Potala Palace holds a wealth of antiques. Visitors have to book entry at the western gate of the palace one day in advance, entitling the purchaser to three tickets the next day.

Opening hours: 9:00 am - 4:00 pm

Admission: RMB 200 from May 1 to October 31, and RMB 100 from November 1 to April 30

Drepung, Sera and Ganden Monasteries

Dating from the 15th century, Drepung Monastery on the western outskirts of Lhasa is the largest and highest ranked shrine of the Gelug Sect.

Opening hours: 9:00 am - 2:00 pm

Admission: RMB 45

Sera Monastery is known for the Buddhist doctrine debate among its monks, which commences at 3 pm every day.

Opening hours: 9:00 am - 4:00 pm

Admission: RMB 45

Ganden Monastery, 40 kilometers from Lhasa, was founded by Tsongkhapa, founder of the Gelug Sect, in 1409, and is therefore known as the origin of the Gelug Sect.

Opening hours: 9:00 am - 4:00 pm

Admission: RMB 40

Barkhor Street

Barkhor in the old district of Lhasa is a famous circumambulation path and commercial center. It is the area where the citys past is best preserved. Barkhor Street was originally a loop around Jokhang Monastery, but the name now refers to the whole old neighborhood surrounding the monastery.

Jokhang Monastery

This monastery is Tibets most magnificent extant construction of the 7th century and the oldest wood-and-earth structure. Its style is a mix of Tibetan, Tang, Nepalese and Indian elements. The gem of its collection is a gilded life-size copper statue of Sakyamuni at 12, which was brought to Tibet by Tang Princess Wencheng. Other precious items include the thousand-meter-long murals Princess Wencheng Coming to Tibet and Construction of Jokhang Monastery, as well as two Ming embroidered Thangkas about Guardian Deities.

Opening hours: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm

Admission: RMB 75

Norbu Lingka

This resort in the western suburb of Lhasa was the Xanadu of the Dalai Lamas. First built by the fourth Dalai in the 1740s, it underwent constant expansion over the following 200 years, and ended up being 360,000 square meters in total, with 374 rooms. It is the largest man-made resort in Tibet, and boasts the best scenes and largest number of historic sites.

Opening hours: 9:30 am - 6:00 pm

Admission: RMB 60

Other Tourist Spots

Namco

Namco in Damxung County is the largest inland lake in Tibet and the highest salt-water lake on the planet, lying more than 1,000 meters higher than Lhasa. Believed to be the territory of Chakrasamvara, lead God of the Esoteric Sect, Namco is a holy land of Tibetan Buddhism, and receives pilgrims from tens of thousands of miles away. The ideal period to see Namco is from June to September. Heavy snow cuts the road in October and November.

Opening hours: 6:00 am - 6:00 pm

Admission: RMB 80 (RMB 5 more for admission to Tashi Island).

Basum Co

Basum Co is a freshwater lake 390 kilometers east of Lhasa, 3,538 meters above sea level. Though tucked deep in the folds of mountains, the reputation of its enchanting mountain and water views reaches far into the outside world. Tsosum Monastery sits on the island at the heart of the lake and is a major shrine of the Ningma Sect. The traditional Lake Circling Festival is held around June 1 every year.

Opening hours: 9:00 am - 4:00 pm

Admission: RMB 20

Yumbulagang

The 2,100-year-old Yumbulagang in Nedong County, 191 kilometers southeast of Lhasa, was the first royal palace in Tibetan history. It used to be the summer palace of Songtsen Gampo and Princess Wencheng. The frescos in the palace record the early history of Tibet, including legends about its first king, first building and first farmed land.

Opening hours: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm

Admission: RMB 30

Samye Monastery

The monastery in Chanang County southeast of Lhasa is known as the first real monastery in Tibet. Dating from the mid-8th century, it was the first Buddhist institute in Tibet served by regular monks. This means it was complete with the Three Treasures of Buddhism — Buddha, Dharma (laws and teachings of Buddha), and Sangha (monks).

Opening hours: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm

Admission: RMB 40

Yamzhog Yumco

This lake 70 kilometer southwest of Lhasa is one of three holy lakes in Tibet. The other two are Namco and Mapham Yutso.

Tashilhunpo Monastery

The largest monastery in Xigaze, Tashilhunpo has been the headquarters of the Panchens since the fourth Panchen. It is one of the six major monasteries of the Gelug Sect, the others being Drepung, Sera and Ganden in Lhasa, Kumbum in Qinghai Province, and Labrang in Gansu Province. Tashilhunpo holds the funerary stupas of late Panchens. Its Qamba statue, more than 26 meters in height, is the worlds largest indoor bronze Buddhist figure. Its casting consumed 110,000 kilograms of bronze and 250 kilograms of gold.

Opening hours: 9:00 am - 5:00 pm

Admission: RMB 55

Palkhor Monastery

Built at the dawn of the 15th century, Palkhor Monastery in Gyangze County co-hosts three sects of Tibetan Buddhism — Sakya, Kadam, and Gelug — making it significant in Tibets religious history. Its buildings are typical of the design of lamaseries in the regions known as “Rear Tibet” during the period from the late 13th to mid-15th century. The nine-story Palkhor Pagoda is a spectacular stack of approximately 100 shrines painted with more than 100,000 Buddha figures. It is therefore also called 100,000-Buddha Pagoda.

Opening hours: 9:00 am - 5:00 pm

Admission: RMB 40

Ruins of the Guge Kingdom

Located in todays Zanda County, this kingdom of 1,300 years ago made significant contributions to the economic and cultural development of Tibet. It was a pivot on the path of Buddhist transmission from India to central Tibet as well as a hub of trade between Tibet and neighboring regions. The kingdom passed its throne down through 20 kings, before mysteriously disappearing in the 17th century. The ruins stretch up a 300-meter-high hill, consisting of palace sections, 879 cave homes, 445 houses, 58 watchtowers and 28 pagodas.

Admission: RMB 400

Yarlung Zangbo Grand

Canyon

The Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon at the lower reaches of the Yarlung Zangbo River is the longest and deepest of its kind on earth. In the uninhabited region at its mid section are four clusters of waterfall groups, many with a fall of 30 to 50 meters. The gorge spans nine natural belts from ice and snow to tropical monsoon forests. It is therefore bestowed with a stunning variety of species, including two-thirds of the higher plants, half of the mammals and four-fifths of the insects in Tibet, as well as three-fifths of the large fungi of China. The gorge is a synthesis of glaciers, staggering cliffs, sinister swamps and a billowing river. With much of it never marked by human feet, the region is dubbed the “last spot of secrecy on earth.” The best season for travel is May to October.

Metog Nature Reserve

The reserve in Metog County in southeastern Tibet is actually part of the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon. Its terrain rolls up and down drastically, from the 7,756-meter Namjagbarwa Peak and 7,151-meter Gyalha Palri Peak, to lowlands of 750 meters. On a swath of barely 40 kilometers the altitude can vary as much as 7,000 meters. Rivers and waterfalls gush between peaks, creating breathtaking scenes. Covering 460,000 hectares, the area has the largest and best preserved virgin forests in China.

Eating in Lhasa

Xueshengong (Snow God Palace) Restaurant

This business by the western wall of Potala Palace on Beijing Middle Road is one of the top Tibetan restaurants in the city.

Tel: 0891-9003803

Xueyu (Snowland) Restaurant

This restaurant at 4 Tibetan Medicine Hospital Road serves a choice of Tibetan, Western and Nepalese dishes.

Tel: 0891-6337323

Zangjiayan (Tibetan Familys Feast) Restaurant

A home-style eatery, this restaurant is run by the descendant of a chef who served Tibetan nobles. Signature dishes are hand-served mutton chops, seafood hotpot, blood sausages and baked wheat buns.

Add: 75 Eastern District of Tuanjie Xincun

Tel: 0891-6332886

Gakla Metok Bar

Located in an old house with a sun-drenched yard and a candle-lit shrine, the building is said to have been the residence of the twelfth Dalais parents. The current owner is a painter, who not only offers his visitors palatable food but also a nice collection of Tibetan handiwork, books and music.

Add: 127 Beijing East Road.

Makye Ame Bar

Makye Ame means an expectant bride in Tibetan. The bar is a snuff-colored three-story building on Barkhor Street. It is said to have been the place of trysts between the legendary sixth Dalai Lama and his expectant bride, where poems of romance were composed. The top story offers a nice view of bustling Barkhor Street.

Guangming (Brightness) Sweet Tea House

One of the best places in Lhasa to try Tibetan sweet tea. A cup costs merely RMB 0.3.

Add: Tibetan Medicine Hospital Road

Accommodation in Lhasa

Banak Shol Hotel

Founded in 1984, this is among the oldest and best known Tibetan-style hotels in Lhasa.

Rate: RMB 180-200 per standard room, RMB 25-40 per bed

Add: 8 Beijing East Road

Tel: 0891-6323829, 6338040, 1398915605

Dong Cuo International Youth

Hostel

This hostel also features Tibetan style decoration.

Rate: RMB 30-50 per bed

Add: 10 Beijing East Road

Tel: 0891-6273383

Email: yhalasa@hotmail.com

Shambhala Heritage Hotel

A luxury hotel with traditional-style courtyards, Shambhala promises its customers a noble experience both in terms of meals and accommodation.

Rate: RMB 580 per standard room

Add: 7 Jiri Erxiang, Lhasa

Tel: 0891-632653