史前和古代的服饰

译/卢屹

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What did prehistoric people wear?

史前人类穿什么？

人类开始穿衣服的确切时间不得而知，但有证据表明，我们可能早在50万到10万年前就开始穿衣服了。考古学家发现了约4万年前貌似缝衣针的手工制品。首批确定无疑的缝衣针属于公元前1.9万到1.5万年前存在于现今法国的梭鲁特文化。染色亚麻纤维的证据可追溯到公元前3.6万年，发现于格鲁吉亚共和国的一个史前洞穴。编织的最早证据发现于捷克共和国的下韦斯特尼采，是陶土片上留下的形似织物、筐、网等的印痕，已有2.7万年的历史。大约2.5万年前西欧的维纳斯雕像装饰有筐形帽或无边帽、腰带以及一根布带。东欧的维纳斯雕像则扎腰带、穿绳裙。考古学家还发现了织网用的尺板、锭子针、编织棒，认为它们也是用于编织的工具。

It is not known for sure when humans began wearing clothes but there is evidence that suggest that we may have begun wearing clothing as far back as 100,000 to 500,000 years ago.Archeologists found objects that look like handmade sewing needles that have been dated to around 40,000 years ago.The first needles that we are sure that are needles belonged to the Solutrean culture which existed in France from 19,000 BC to 15,000 BC.Evidence of dyed flax fibers dates back to 36,000 BC and was found in a prehistoric cave in the Republic of Georgia.The first evidence of weaving was found in Dolni Vestonice in the Czech Republic in the form of impressions of textiles and basketry and nets on pieces of clay and is 27,000 years old.Venus figurines1成组的小型女性石雕像，出现于旧石器时代晚期，用质地较粗的石灰石和泥石岩雕刻而成。其中最有代表性的作品当属“威伦道夫的维纳斯”（Venus of Willendorf），又叫“母神雕像”。该雕像肥胖矮小，一头团成圈形的卷发，面部看不见五官，手脚等细节表现较为粗糙，乳房、臀部等女性生理特征较为夸张突出。, from some 25,000 years ago, from Western Europe are decorated with basket hats or caps, belts and a strap of cloth.Venus figurines from Eastern Europe wore belts and string skirts.Net gauges, spindle needles and weaving sticks are also found by archeologists and are believed that they were also used in the making of textiles.

2The first known humans to make clothes were Neanderthals who, at some point in history, learned how to use the hides of the animals they hunted to keep themselves warm and dry.There is also the possibility that first clothes had primarily other purposes such as magic, decoration, cult or prestige, and were later found to be practical as well.Cro-Magnon man, who came after Neanderthal, improved clothes by using sharp awls, pointed tools and needles made out of slivers of animal bone with a point at one end and an eye at the other.He punched small holes in hides and then simply laced them with sinew and other types of cordage that could be found in nature.One of the first simpler clothes was tunic2tunic（无袖）宽松外衣，长袍。which was made from two pieces of rectangular animal hide laced together on one side with a hole left for the head in the middle.Arms went through the open sides and the tunic was closed with a belt.

2已知最早制作衣服的人类是尼安德特人，他们在历史上的某个时期学会了使用猎物的皮毛让自己保持温暖干燥。最初的衣服原本可能另有他用，比如巫术、装饰、崇拜、权威等，后来被发现也有实用功能。尼安德特人之后的克罗马农人改进了衣服，用的是锋利的锥子、尖锐的工具、用兽骨条制成的一头尖而另一头带孔的骨针。他们在兽皮上打小孔，然后直接用动物肌腱组织或者自然中现成的线状物进行缝制。最早的一种简易衣服是把两片矩形兽皮的一边缝起来、中间为头部留出空隙的上衣。手臂从两侧开口伸出，衣服用腰带束紧。

3一套完整史前衣服的最佳例证是1991年在阿尔卑斯山发现的冰人奥茨身上的衣服，有5300年的历史。他的衣服和装备是用六种动物的皮、骨、角、羽毛和17种树的叶、木、纤维制成的。他的上衣扎了腰带，两腿各穿了一条长筒袜似的绑腿，绑腿是用几片山羊皮做成的，并系在腰带上。他穿的鞋是用类似棕熊皮、鹿皮和小牛皮的兽皮做成的，里面填了干草。他穿的外套是用动物肌腱组织做的线将一条条山羊皮从内侧缝制而成。他头上戴了一顶20厘米高的熊皮帽，还有皮制的下巴束带。他背上的斗篷是用长草秆做的。

3The best example of a complete set of prehistoric clothes is that found on Ötzi the Iceman found in the Alps in 1991, which is 5300 years old.His clothing and equipment were made from hides, bones, antlers and feathers of six different animal species and the leaves,wood and fiber of 17 different trees.His upper clothing was tied with a belt.His legs were covered with two separate leather stocking-like leggings which were made of several pieces of goat hide and attached to his belt.Shoes that he had were made of animal skins like brown bear hide, deer leather and calf leather and filled with hay.Coat that he wore was made of strips of goat skin that were sewed on the inside with thread made of animal sinews.On his head was 20cm tall hat made of bear fur which had leather chin straps.Cape that was on his back was made of long stalks grass.

Clothing in the ancient world

4 Types of clothing used in the ancient world depended on the technologies that were invented in that time.We have evidence about what people wore then from depictions of people in the art of the time and from archeological findings of fabric fibers and leathers that are sometimes very well-preserved.The frist actual textile was probably felt.Nålebinding was also another early textile technique and it dates from 6500 BC.

古代世界的服饰

4古代世界使用的服饰种类取决于当时的技术发明。关于古人穿什么的证据来自当时艺术作品中的人物描绘，也来自织物纤维和皮革等考古发现，它们有时被保存得相当完好。最早的真正织物可能是毛毡。单针环织法是另一种早期编织技术，可追溯到公元前6500年。

5 Earliest woven textiles of the Near East may be fabrics dated to c.6000 BC.They were used for wrapping the dead and are found at a Neolithic site at Çatalhöyük in Anatolia.Flax was cultivated from c.8000 BC and breeding of sheep with a wooly fleece from 3000 BC.

5 近东地区最早的梭织品可能是大约公元前6000年的织物。它们用于包裹尸体，发现于安纳托利亚加泰土丘的一个新石器时代遗址。亚麻种植始自公元前8000年左右，长毛绵羊养殖则始自公元前3000年。

6In Ancient India, cotton was used as material for clothing from 5000 BC.

7In Ancient Egypt most of the textile was made out of flax.Wool was known,but was used rarely (only for coats that were for instance forbidden in temples and sanctuaries) because it was considered impure as animal fibers were considered taboo.Complex clothing was reserved for higher classes while lower class wore only the loincloth or schenti.Both women and men wore same shoes—sandals braided with leather or, if they were bureaucrats and priests,braided with papyrus.They also wore tunics, robes, short-sleeved shirts, pleated skirts.Women also wore draped dresses made of white or unbleached fabric.

8Cretan clothes were made from wool and flax from which loincloths were made.The women of Crete wore longer loincloths as underskirts with a belt on which was fixed a large dagger.They also wore a long or short coat and a hat.Dresses were secured with brooches.Loincloths that men wore were in a shape of a short skirt or apron.Long clothing was in a shape of a coat made of wool and was worn for protection against bad weather.

6古印度从公元前5000年开始就把棉花用作衣服材料。

7古埃及的大部分织物都是用亚麻制成的。那里也知道羊毛，但很少使用它（仅用于制作在寺庙、圣堂等场所禁穿的外套），这是因为动物纤维被视为忌讳，故而羊毛被当作不洁之物。复杂的服饰是给上等人穿的，下等人只能穿遮羞布，或叫缠腰布。男女都穿一样的皮编凉鞋，但官吏、祭司穿纸莎草编的鞋。他们也穿束腰外衣、长袍、短袖衬衣、褶裙等。女人还会穿用白色或未漂白织物制成的垂褶连衣裙。

8克里特人的服饰是用羊毛、亚麻制成的遮羞布。克里特女子穿较长的遮羞布，即扎腰带的衬裙，腰带上别着一把大匕首。她们还穿或长或短的外套，戴帽子。衣服用饰针固定。男子穿的遮羞布形似短裙或围裙。他们穿形似外套的羊毛长衣以抵御恶劣天气。

9古希腊服装由长短不一的长方形亚麻或羊毛布料做成，肩部用搭扣或别针固定，腰部用皮带、饰带、束带等系牢。佩普洛斯女式长衣是一种较厚重的毛料全身长衣，肩上有搭扣。男女都会穿希顿宽大长袍，一种用轻薄亚麻布做的简便束腰上衣。斯特罗菲翁胸带是女子穿的胸衣。男子穿的是克拉米斯短斗篷，一 种用无缝矩形毛料做的披风。

9Ancient Greek clothing consisted of lengths of linen or wool fabric which had rectangular shape.They were secured with clasps or pins at the shoulder and a belt, sash or girdle at the waist.Women wore peplos which was a heavier woolen body-length garment with shoulder clasps.A simple tunic garment of lighter linen called chiton3chiton古希腊人贴身穿的宽大长袍，有两种样式——多立克式（Doric）和爱奥尼亚式（Ionic）。worn by both men and women.A strophion was an undergarment which women wore around the mid-portion of the body.Men wore a type of c l o a k c a l l e d chlamys, a seamless rectangle of woolen material.

10One of the most famous items of clothing from Ancient Rome is toga—a one-piece woolen garment that draped loosely around the shoulders and down the body.There is evidence that toga was worn by all free Romans during the Roman monarchy and the Roman Republic,while slaves and children wore tunics.After the 2nd century BC, toga was worn over tunic by men while women wore stola, a long pleated dress similar to the Greek chitons.Girls and boys under the age of puberty wore a toga praetexta.It was special type of toga with a purple band on the lower edge.■

10最有名的一种古罗马服饰为托加，这是一体式羊毛长袍，从双肩宽松地垂坠于全身。有证据表明，在古罗马王政时代和共和国时代，所有罗马自由民都穿着托加长袍，而奴隶和儿童穿束腰外衣。公元前2世纪之后，男子在束腰外衣外穿托加长袍，而女子则穿斯托拉，一种类似于古希腊希顿宽大长袍的褶皱长裙。未成年人穿镶边托加，这是一种底边镶有紫色条纹的特殊托加。 □