Trang: The city obsessed with breakfast 泰国董里：一个被早餐唤醒的城市

王朝东

董里人对早餐的“痴迷”几乎是病态的，这与当地橡胶采集工的工作时间、移民情况等息息相关。

There arent many places in the world that are as serious about breakfast as Trang. Even in an utterly food?obsessed country like Thailand， the citys enthusiasm for the first meal of the day can seem almost pathological（不理智的）. Its fun， crazy， delicious and overwhelming. But why breakfast and why Trang？

“Restaurants in Trang accommodate the various types of workers here，” explained Khanaporn Janjirdsak， a Trang?based restaurateur and amateur food historian， when I asked her why Trang was so mad about breakfast. “Rubber tappers（橡胶采集工） wake up at 2：00， so people who run restaurants go shopping for ingredients（原料） at 5：00; people here are eating all the time！”

Another factor that has shaped the citys breakfast scene is immigration. Since the 15th century， trade， commerce and the prospect of work have drawn Chinese immigrants to various points along Thailands Andaman Sea coast. As a result， it just might be the most Chinese place in Thailand： a virtual melting pot of Chinese culture. Yet， its the Cantonese who have had the biggest impact on Trangs breakfast.

Thirakleela， a local told me， Trangs teahouses started to offer more food items， finally making the transition to restaurants. Today， the city is known for vast dim sum halls that offer dozens of steamed and deep?fried options， as well as noodles and rice dishes.

But Trangs breakfast scene isnt limited to Chinese dishes. Like much of southern Thailand， the city has a significant Muslim population， and from a string of open?air halal restaurants near Trangs train station， vendors sell crispy and fried flatbreads， pairing them with fragrant curries（咖喱菜） of dried spices that are more India than Thailand. Nearby， ethnic Thais， who， ironically， have probably had the least impact on Trangs breakfast scene， operate curry stalls and establishments that boast dozens of trays of pre?made curries， stir?frys， soups and other dishes. Although typically， lunch is elsewhere in Thailand， in Trang， these dishes are considered breakfast.

What are the three groups of people that contribute to the overwhelming breakfast in Trang according to the text？（no more than 10 words）