楠溪美食好滋味

“江头风景日堪醉，酒美蟹肥橙橘香。”宋人真山民在《永嘉秋夕》诗中感慨，楠溪江头，不仅风景让人沉醉，当地的美酒、肥蟹、橙橘更是让人痴醉。

永嘉显名始于东晋，隋朝设永嘉县，取“水长而美”之意。那水，便是楠溪江，江上鸥鸟出没，两岸青山叠翠，竹树茂密，景色如画。这里有江南最美的水路，更有楠溪江的山珍和永嘉当地独特的民间小吃。游楠溪江畔，步青山之间，品特色美食，怎一个好字了得！

The name of Yongjia began to be known in the Eastern Jin dynasty （317-420）， and it became a county in the Sui dynasty （581-618）. Literally “long and beautiful river”， Yongjia is notable for its picturesque scenery， with the Nanxi River， from which Yongjia derived its name， coursing through the county from north to south. One of the most beautiful Jiangnan （south of the Yangtze River） waterways， the Nanxi River is lined with green mountains and lush bamboo forests on both sides. “The scenery at the river head gets people drunk， with fine wine， fat crabs， oranges so sweet，“ a poet writes of Yongjia. While travelling， dont forget to try local treats and delicacies， and learn about its culinary traditions that can only be found in Yongjia and along the Nanxi River！

永嘉麦饼

Yongjia Wheat Cake

永嘉麦饼已经有1000余年的历史，由花坦村朱氏先人所创。当地多沙地，宜种麦，百姓将麦磨成面粉，以麦粉包裹咸菜和鲜肉煎烤而成，遂名麦饼，具有形体大、饼皮厚、馅料丰富、经多次煎烤的特点，因味道鲜美而受到欢迎。

随着朱氏子弟向全国扩散，吃麦饼的习惯也逐渐走向了全国，麦饼作为一种价廉物美的小吃被各地接受。如江西婺源朱氏九代孙朱熹，是宋朝著名的理学大师，就喜欢吃麦饼，有一次他到某儒生家做客，儒生特地为他制作了以麦饼为饭，以葱汤为羹，以此来款待朱熹。朱熹食后口占一绝：“葱汤麦饭两相宜，葱暖丹田麦疗饥。”

《明史》记载，嘉靖皇帝时，为了表达对先祖的怀念和对粮食丰收的渴望，把四月八日的不落夹改为麦饼，自此，麦饼正式成为大明王朝宴席的主角，称为麦饼宴。至今，在各地的温州人，思念家乡的时候，就会想起家乡的麦饼。

With over a history of over 1，000 years， Yongjia wheat cake was believed to be first made by the Zhu family in Huatan village. Instead of rice， the local soil is more suited for wheat， which， when harvested， is ground into flour. Wrap pickles and fresh meat into flour doughs and then fry and bake them several times， you get the wheat cakes.

One big fan of the wheat cakes is Zhu Xi （1130-1200）， philosopher and one of the most influential Neo-Confucianists. Another one is Emperor Jiajing （1507-1567） of the Ming dynasty （1368-1644）， who even designated wheat cakes as a dish of the imperial banquets.

Over the years， as the descendants of the Zhu family brought the wheat cake to different places， it has become a national favorite.

楠溪素面

Nanxi Plain Noodle

亦稱索面，是一种易消化的面条，对肠胃有益，适合小孩和老人食用。其直径通常小于1.3毫米，温州各县均有制作，而以历史悠久论，首推永嘉。因永嘉在楠溪江流域，乡人称为楠溪素面。

素面做好后，要在阳光下暴晒几天。此时，村前院墙上挂满了白色素面。细丝翻飞、素面飘飘的景致令人十分赏心悦目，堪称楠溪一景。南宋末年，永嘉民族英雄陈虞之在南崖扎寨抗元时，就曾用“白纸代素面晾在竹竿上”计退围攻的元军，成为古今美谈。

楠溪沿江居民历来将素面视为食中上品，常以素面招待客人。素面味冷而清，可浸于肉汤或丸子中，亦可下至酱油中，而不浇于其他食物之上。酱油通常是鲣海鲜味，可以与大葱、生姜以及青蒜，搭配出绝妙的口感。

在永嘉农村，过去人们走亲访友时常以素面相赠。在妇女坐月子时，做外婆的免不了要提上一长筒篮交叠成“8”字形的素面，俗称为“长寿面”，以讨吉利。而媒人在说媒成功之后，常会美滋滋地去新娘家喝“素面汤”。

Easily digestible and good for your stomach and intestines， the noodle is suitable for people of all ages， children and the elderly in particular， with a diameter usually less than 1.3 mm. While the noodle is made in every county of Wenzhou， the Yongjia variety has the longest history， commonly referred to as the Nanxi plain noodle because of the Nanxi River.

After the noodle is made， it needs to be hung in the sun for a few days. During this time， the walls of the courtyards in the villages are overflown with white noodles. Fluttering in the wind， these noodles become a scene itself to behold.

As a prized local specialty， the noodles are traditionally served to relatives， visitors， friends， and matchmakers， and usually taken together with gravy， meat balls or seafood-flavored soy sauce.

永嘉田鱼

Yongjia Rice Paddy Fish

据传说，三国吴时楠溪先祖就已利用稻田养鱼，迄今已有1700多年的历史。生长在稻田里的永嘉田鱼，形似鲤鱼，味胜鲫鱼，鳞如金鱼，色如金鱼，是适合稻田养殖的优良品种。它的食性杂，适应性广，繁殖力强，成活率高，生长快，肉质嫩滑，营养丰富。

田鱼味美、性和、肉细、鳞片软。富含粗蛋白、微量元素和15种人体必需的氨基酸。有利于健脑、提高智力，具有健体、防衰老、防弱智、提高人体免疫力、美容等功能。田鱼还是药用鱼类之一，能利尿、消肿。现在，永嘉县以茗岙出产的田鱼最为知名。

According to local tales， Yongjia people have been farming fish in rice paddies since the Three Kingdoms period （220-280）. It resembles carp in shape and tastes better than crucian carp， with a similar color and similar scales to gold fish. The rice paddy fish is in fact a variant of carp， easy to raise in paddy fields and rich in proteins， micronutrients and amino acids. It is also known for possessing a number of medicinal values.

金粉饺

“Gold Powder” Dumpling

金粉饺，也叫锦粉饺，是永嘉岩头的特色美食，因楠溪江环境气候宜种番薯，当地人将番薯加工成锦粉，再以锦粉沉淀掺揉均匀制作而成，取盘菜、肉末、冬笋、豆腐、胡萝卜等做馅，包成三角形（或半月形），隔水蒸熟。观其外形如琥珀水晶一般，比普通的水饺个头要大一些，吃的时候加热调味，食之滑而不腻，嫩嫩的、香香的，入口有嚼劲。为冬至、春节或平时待客的佳品。

A local delicacy in Yantou township， “gold powder” dumplings are usually served to guests during winter solstice and the Chinese New Year. The wrappers are made of sweet potato starch， as the plant is abundantly available along the Nanxi River. The fillings are made of minced meat， winter bamboo shoots， tofu， carrots， among other things. Often wrapped in a triangle or half-moon， the “gold powder” dumplings are slightly larger than the regular ones， and， when fully steamed， look like amber stones. Hence the name “gold powder”.

永嘉早香柚

Yongjia Zaoxiang Pomelo

永嘉早香柚被譽为“柚中佳品”，果形犹似园蒲瓜，果皮薄而橙黄，果肉脆嫩多汁，甜而爽口，少籽。早在南宋，温州府台韩彦直就根据永嘉农民栽植经验撰写了我国最早的柑橘专著《橘录》。柚为柑橘的一种，在永嘉农户房前屋后普遍栽植。但野生土抛多数结的果实苦涩多籽、品质很差。而现在永嘉产的早香柚则外形美观，果实营养丰富，享誉海内外。

Also known as Yongjia Xiangpao， the Yongjia Zaoxiang pomelo is believed to be a variant of the more well-known Wendan pomelo. Similar in shape to calabash or gourd， the Zaoxiang pomelo is thin in skin and sweet in taste， with juicy and crisp flesh and very few seeds.

楠溪螺螄汤

Nanxi River Snail Soup

楠溪江水质好，常年清澈甘冽，游鱼可见。小螺蛳在这样优质的溪水环境里长大，爬附在溪底的石头上，自然干净，属于一道纯天然的“有机”食品。从溪里抓来小螺蛳后，在清水里滴上几滴菜油，让小螺蛳养上几个小时。很快它就会吐干净身上携带的泥沙，待清洗干净，便可拿来煮汤。只须放一点蒜、姜，去腥味即可，再加一点当地黄酒。出锅后，先喝汤，螺蛳汤清淡、鲜美，略带一点点苦味，真可谓是“人间有味是清欢”。剩下的螺蛳则以牙签挑肉食之，味鲜爽口。

Growing upon the river bed rocks in Nanxi River， the river snails here are considered one of the most natural and organic food， as the water is so lucid and crystal clear that not only fish can be seen， it is actually drinkable. After catching the river snails， put them in water with a few drops of vegetable oil and wait for a few hours before they spit out the soil and sediment stored in their bodies. They are then ready to be made into soup after a final round of cleaning. Only some garlic and ginger will be needed to remove the fishy smell， apart from a little local cooking wine. When everything is fully cooked， always try the light and fresh soup first， before tasting the flesh.

农家烤全羊

Home-made Roasted Whole Lamb

烤全羊在楠溪江可以说是很有口碑的，可以在龙湾潭、岭上人家和狮子岩吃到。全羊烤出来后，皮非常薄，香味从里面散发出来，甚至连骨头也是非常脆的，非常好吃。永嘉县鹤盛镇罗川村，有个保留400多年历史的田园古村落叫“岭上人家”。该村背山面溪，四周山色青翠欲滴，空气清新，有“天然氧吧”之称。除了景色美，特色美食也非常丰富。其中，最令人垂涎的是外脆里嫩、油而不腻的烤全羊。每逢周末，全村农家乐几乎爆满。烤全羊已成为岭上人家的一大特色。

Roasted whole lamb is quite popular in some areas of the Nanxi River. When the whole lamb is fully roasted， its skin is so thin that the flavors come directly from the inside. Even the bones are crisp and chewy. In Luochuan village， Hesheng township， an ancient hamlet with a history of over 400 years called “Lingshang Renjia”， or Families on the Mountainside， is particularly known for the dish. Back against the mountains and facing the Nanxi Rvier， the hamlet is enveloped by a “natural oxygen bar” and the lambs raised there are among the best. During weekends， family-run restaurants are always full of customers seeking to get a bite of the tender lamb.

楠溪江香鱼干

Nanxi River Dried Sweetfish

楠溪江香鱼，闻名已久，素有“淡水鱼之王”的美誉。明万历年间便有记载：香鱼“长三四寸，味佳而无腥，生清流，惟十月时有，与乐产少异”。它个头不大，一条重约二三两至半斤左右，头小嘴尖，体披细鳞，背部灰黑，腹部银白色，鱼肉细嫩多脂，味鲜且有香味，是名贵的经济鱼类，曾为皇家贡品。

在楠溪江一带，渔民捕到香鱼基本上都会将它晒成鱼干再食用，只有经过烘焙，香鱼才能散发出它独有的香味。先把鱼背剖开，放在铁丝匾或竹篾上晒干，再用文火细烟慢慢熏焙，直至烤成金黄色取出，海内外闻名的香鱼干就大功告成了。

楠溪人家做香鱼干菜肴，通常为清炖白烧，不需要太多的材料和复杂的工序。慢慢地嚼着香鱼干，唇齿之间有一股淡淡的却鲜甘绕舌的鱼香味，犹如楠溪江水那般言有尽而意无穷，别有一番风味。

Called the “king of freshwater fishes”， the Nanxi River sweetfish has long been known. Records from the Wanli period （1573-1620） of Ming dynasty described the species thus： the sweetfish “is usually three to four cun [10-14 centimeters] in length， fresh in taste and with no fishy smell; it lives in clear streams and only to be found in October [Chinese lunar calendar].”

A sweetfish generally weighs between 100 and 250 grams， with a small head and a pointed mouth， its back black and belly silver white. In the past， sweetfish used to be presented as tribute to the imperial court. Along the Nanxi River， fishermen often dry and bake the sweetfish for food， as the unique sweetness of its flesh can only be released through this method.