上海 百年时光荏苒，纺织文脉常新

上海，中国近代纺织工业的发源地。

位于黄埔江畔的纺织行业，曾经开启了中国近代工业新纪元，织就当年“东方巴黎”的时尚基因，潺潺的水声与织布机的轰鸣声交织成一首工业复兴的史诗乐章。

而如今，上海纺织业正向高端提升、向制造业后续服务价值链延伸；承载着纺织历史的工业遗址摇身一变，成为一个个网红工业园区；上海时装周与米兰、巴黎、伦敦、纽约比肩，跻身世界五大时装周之列……上海纺织时尚产业正以更加现代的姿态，演绎出一曲交织着创意和活力的时尚新华章。

Shanghai is the birthplace of modern textile industry in China.

Located by the Huangpu River， the textile industry once opened a new era of modern Chinese industry. The sound of the gurgling river and the roar of the loom interweave into an epic movement of industrial revival.

Nowadays， Shanghai textile industry is advancing to the high-end industry and extending to the manufacturing follow-up service value chain. Industrial sites with textile history have been transformed into modern industrial parks. Shanghai Fashion Week is one of the top five fashion weeks in the world， alongside Milan， Paris， London and New York Fashion Week. With a more modern attitude， Shanghai textile fashion industry is presenting a new chapter of fashion with creativity and vitality.

織就“东方巴黎”时尚基因

早在明清时期，上海城乡的手工棉纺织业就已兴盛。而中国第一家动力机器棉纺织企业，就诞生在上海。

1878年，上海纺织集团的前身——上海机器织布制造局建立，它是由李鸿章主持筹建，中国棉纺织史上第一家由官督商办、规模颇大的棉纺织企业。它开创了中国近代动力机器纺织工业的新纪元，带动了后道各个加工工业，包括印染、针织、毛巾被单、制线织带，以及毛纺织印染和丝织业等产业链的拓展，为中国近代纺织工业的初步发展奠定了基础。

此后几经辗转，1931年荣氏兄弟购得该厂，并更名为“申新九厂”，成为民族资本中规模最大、发展最快的纺织企业集团。此后，彻夜轰鸣的纺织机器，响彻了60余个春秋。

在申新九厂最兴旺时，厂里有7500名员工、8000名退休工人，10万多个纱锭、800多台织布机，还有线锭、气流房等各类纺织专业设施。从1955年公私合营一直到1992年，该厂累计上缴给国家的税收相当于每年可以再造一个申新厂。

与此同时，上海纺织工业也在不断发展。上世纪30年代，上海所产纺织品品类之丰、品质之优、数量之巨，已享誉海内外，为“东方巴黎”上海的时尚提供着物质和经济基础。

到1949年全国解放时，上海纺织工业主体的棉纺锭已达250万枚。上海曾拥有棉、麻、丝、毛、化纤纺织，产业门类齐全，从纤维到纱、从布到服装、家纺等最终消费品，形成了完整的产业链。新中国建立后的很长一段时间内，上海纺织工业被称为“摇钱树”，棉纺锭曾经占全国棉纺锭总数“半壁江山”。至上世纪80年代末，上海纺织工业仍雄踞上海第一支柱产业，产值、利税一度占上海工业的三分之一，出口创汇曾经占全市四分之一，是当之无愧的母亲工业。

上世纪90年代，随着上海从我国重要工业基地向建设“四个中心”的发展，从工业化城市向国际化大都市的转型，传统的劳动密集型的上海纺织工业陷入了困境。有着光荣历史和优良传统的上海纺织人以大无畏的气概进行了以“减员压锭”为标志的大规模适应性调整。1998年，“压锭”的“第一锤”就敲在了申新九厂更名后的上海第二十二棉纺织厂。产业结构、资本结构和劳动力结构的大调整自此开启，与上海国际大都市相匹配的现代纺织业也自此走上新征途。

现代纺织业的蜕变重生

经过一系列改革提升，此后的上海纺织以“科技与时尚”的发展战略，致力于从传统纺织制造业向高端提升、向制造业后续服务价值链延伸，打造与上海国际大都市相匹配的现代纺织业。

2001年，延续申新九厂的历史文化和优良传统，上海纺织（集团）有限公司成立，并逐步发展成为一家以科技为先导，以时尚产业为依托、拥有较完整的纺织服装产业链、集科工贸为一体的企业集团，同时也是上海最大的国际贸易集团。

2017年，擁有150年历史的上海纺织集团和具有近70年外贸历史的原东方国际集团联合重组成东方国际（集团）有限公司（以下简称“东方国际”），成为一家拥有先进制造业与现代服务业，以时尚产业、健康产业和供应链服务为核心主业，以科技实业、产业地产、金融投资为支撑的大型综合性企业集团，是中国最大的纺织服装集团和最大的纺织品服装出口企业，名列中国企业500强第210位。

在实体纺织业方面，东方国际在国内外建成了一批先进制造基地，拥有全球第二的汽车内饰、全球第二的时尚箱包、全球第四的毛衫制造能力和一批为贸易配套的服装（面料）制造工厂。已在世界170多个国家或地区拓展了业务，与众多著名跨国公司开展了合作，拥有“三枪”“衣架”“银河”等著名品牌和里奥竹等自主知识产权高新纤维。在国内有近4000家直营零售终端。

让“文物”变身文旅

东方国际打造了一批时尚产业服务平台，正成为中国最具影响力的时尚产业综合配套服务商。作为隶属东方国际战略布局中时尚产业群的发展主体，上海纺织时尚产业发展有限公司执掌集团“时尚”大旗，以“为城市添加精彩，为生活增加色彩”为发展理念，致力于成为中国时尚产业的创造者、时尚产业链的集成者、时尚产业核心技术和环节的拥有者。其打造的“上海时装周”影响力亚洲第一，跻身世界五大时装周行列；拥有M50、尚街loft、上海国际时尚中心等60多个时尚创意园区，总面积180万平米，园区建设和体量达到全国第一。

其中，M50由信和纱厂旧址改造而来，如今是上海最具规模和影响力的创意产业园区之一；尚街Loft前身是三枪老式工业厂房，已经摇身一变成为国际、时尚、创意、生活的时尚文创园区；上海国际时尚中心原为上海第十七棉纺织总厂，成功转型成了集文化、旅游、商业三者合一的文化创意经济综合体。

这些跨越了近一个世纪的纺织工业遗迹，见证了上海纺织乃至中国纺织业的发展和变迁，是不可多得的宝贵财富。然而，它们并没有就此成为躺在历史回忆中的“文物”，而是在纺织人的智慧和才干下，再次焕发出新生，成为纺织时尚产业又一新亮点，继续为人民的美好生活增光添彩。

Shanghai textile industry weaves the fashion gene of “Oriental Paris”

Qing Dynasty Government established Shanghai Machine Weaving Bureau in 1878. It was the first mechanized cotton mill with the mass production capacity in modern China. The Bureau has partially enabled China to evolve from the thousands of years’ handcraft based production to modern mechanical era， with an epoch-making and far-reaching significance.

The Rong brothers bought the mill and changed its name to Shenxin 9th Cotton Mill in 1931， becoming the largest and fastest-growing textile enterprise group in China.

There were 7，500 employees， 8，000 retired workers， more than 100，000 spindles， more than 800 looms， and various professional textile facilities at its peak. From the publicprivate partnership in 1955 to 1992， the cumulative tax paid by the mill to the state was equivalent to the ability to build another Shenxin Cotton Mill every year.

Meanwhile， Shanghai’s textile industry is also developing. In the 1930s， the variety， quality and quantity of textiles produced in Shanghai were well known at home and abroad， providing material and economic basis for the fashion of Shanghai.

By 1949， the Shanghai textile industry had 2.5 million cotton spindles. Shanghai used to have cotton， linen， silk， wool， and chemical fiber textiles， with a complete range of industries， from fiber to yarn， cloth to clothing， home textiles and other final consumer goods， forming a complete industrial chain. For a long time after the founding of New China， Shanghai cotton spinning spindles once accounted for half of the country’s total cotton spinning spindles. By the end of the 1980s， Shanghai’s textile industry was still the first pillar industry in Shanghai. Its output value， profits and taxes once accounted for one-third of Shanghai’s industry， and its export earnings accounted for one quarter of the city’s foreign exchange earnings. It was a welldeserved mother industry.

In the 1990s， with the development of Shanghai from an important industrial base in China to the construction of “four centers” and the transformation from an industrialized city to an international metropolis， the traditional labor-intensive Shanghai textile industry fell into a dilemma， and the Shanghai textile people with a glorious history and fine traditions made large-scale adjustments. In 1998， Shanghai 22nd Cotton Mill， formerly Shenxin 9th Cotton Mill， began to adjust the industrial structure， capital structure and labor structure， and the modern textile industry matching Shanghai international metropolis has embarked on a new journey.

Transformation and upgrading of modern textile industry

After a series of reforms， Shanghai textile has been committed to the development strategy of “technology and fashion”， upgrading from traditional textile manufacturing to high-end industry， extending to the manufacturing followup service value chain， and creating a modern textile industry matching Shanghai’s international metropolis.

In 2001， continuing the historical culture and fine traditions of the Shenxin 9th Cotton Mill， Shangtex Holding Co.， Ltd. was established and gradually developed into an enterprise group that takes science and technology as the guide， based on the fashion industry， and has a relatively complete textile and garment industry chain. It is also the largest international trade group in Shanghai.

In 2017， Shangtex Holding Co.， Ltd.， with a history of 150 years， and the original Oriental International Group， with a history of nearly 70 years of foreign trade， jointly reorganized into Orient International （Holding） Co.， Ltd.（hereinafter referred to as “Orient International”）. It has become a large-scale comprehensive enterprise group with advanced manufacturing and modern service industries， with fashion industry， health industry and supply chain services as its core businesses， and supported by technology industry， industrial real estate， and financial investment. It is the largest textile and garment group in China， ranked 210th among the top 500 Chinese enterprises.

Orient International has built a number of advanced manufacturing bases at home and abroad， with the world’s second largest automobile interior and fashion bags， the world’s fourth largest sweater manufacturing capacity and garment （fabric） manufacturing factories. It has expanded its business in more than 170 countries and regions in the world and cooperated with many famous multinational companies. It owns famous brands such as THREEGUN and high-tech fibers with independent intellectual property rights such as Lyocell Bamboo， and there are nearly 4，000 direct retail terminals in China.

To become the most influential fashion industry comprehensive supporting service provider in China

Orient International has created a number of fashion industry service platforms and is becoming the most influential fashion industry comprehensive supporting service provider in China. As the main body of the development of the fashion industry group under the strategic layout of Orient International， the Shanghai Textile and Fashion Industry Development Co.， Ltd. is committed to becoming the creator of China’s fashion industry， the integrator of the fashion industry chain， and the owner of core technologies and links in the fashion industry. Shanghai Fashion Week created by it has the largest influence in Asia and ranks among the top five fashion weeks in the world； it has more than 60 fashion creative parks， including M50， Shangjie Loft， and Shanghai Fashion Center， with a total area of 1.8 million square meters.

Among them， M50 was transformed from the former site of Xinhe Textile Co.， Ltd. and is now one of the most influential creative industry parks in Shanghai. Shangjie Loft， formerly known as THREEGUN old industrial plant， has been transformed into an international， fashion， creative， lifestyle fashion cultural and creative park； Shanghai Fashion Center， formerly known as Shanghai 17th Cotton Mill， has been successfully transformed into a cultural and creative economic complex integrating culture， tourism and commerce.

These textile industry relics spanning nearly a century have witnessed the development and changes of Shanghai textile industry and even China’s textile industry， which is a rare precious treasure. However， they did not become the cultural relics lying in the historical memory， but with the wisdom and talent of the textile people， become a new highlight of the textile fashion industry， continue to add luster to the people’s beautiful life.