龙游发糕：江南人善蒸之杰作

求张锋

龙游的饮食文化历史源远流长，荷花山遗址将境内的人类活动历史提早到一万年前，发现的大量稻作遗存，证明龙游是稻作农业文明的重要发源地之一。

稻米的盛产，激发了人们对米制美食的想象力。龙游发糕是最负盛名的传统特产之一。据《龙游县志》记载：龙游发糕的制作始于14—17世纪的明代，具有悠久的历史，逢年过节家家户户蒸制发糕，用作点心，或馈赠亲友，成特有风情。据说清代乾隆帝游江南时品尝龙游发糕后，对发糕的色、香、味、形大加赞赏，之后，龙游发糕一直作为贡品进贡朝廷。

为扶持“龙游发糕”产业做大做强，使之成为龙游县经济发展的新增长点、大众创业就业的新平台、老百姓增收致富的新引擎，2017年11月，龙游县人民政府出台《关于促进“龙游发糕”产业健康发展的实施意见》，从七个方面着手，明确政策享受主体，通过技术改造、科技创新、宣传营销等方面的财政扶持，促使“龙游发糕”生产企业做大做强。

一石激起千层浪，大大小小的发糕作坊如雨后春笋般涌现。截至2020年底，全县共有发糕生产企业（SC）15家、发糕作坊124家、龙游发糕经营门店162家。据不完全统计，龙游县发糕生产企业、作坊及门店总共销售收入达到2.75亿元，利润0.8亿元。

在“龙游发糕”的创业大军中，一批“80后”“90后”积极涌入，他们有更好的品牌推广理念，更新的营销手段，将传统美食推上更高的高度。在产业培育中，龙游县委、县政府鼓励“龙游发糕”企业上规模并适度集聚、积极改造提升、引进人才和科技创新，加大宣传营销力度，加强品牌建设和管理。

位于龙游经济开发区的浙江善蒸坊食品有限公司，发糕“非遗”文化技艺传承人黄雪梅和她丈夫，正着力培育发糕产业，探索制定制作工艺、储存运输等一系列标准。

“‘善蒸坊’和发糕的历史渊源颇深，是龙游的百年老字号。”黄雪梅说起了丈夫蓝锦国祖辈和龙游发糕的緣分，娓娓道出“善蒸坊”的前世今生。

话说乾隆三十年（1765年），清高宗爱新觉罗弘历第四次下江南巡视，行至瀫岁（今衢江），命船拐入灵山江，直奔龙游县城游赏姑篾古都风采，在品尝发糕后高兴不已，赞曰：“江南人善蒸也！”

此后，龙游人徐明达依“江南人善蒸”一语，将自己的作坊更名为“善蒸坊”，慕名而来的顾客数不胜数，“善蒸坊”作为龙游发糕的一块金字招牌，也传遍了大江南北。至民国二十二年，“善蒸坊”传人徐仁富，因从事他业，无暇顾及，将店面转给了隔壁经营“德辉饼坊”的蓝宏柏，蓝宏柏接手后，两店合并经营，生意蒸蒸日上，更胜从前。

20世纪90年代，蓝氏第四代传人蓝锦国脱颖而出，一改往昔现做现卖的作坊模式，华丽转身，创办了善蒸坊食品有限公司，实现了龙游发糕的工业化生产和全国性流通。创新发展，厚积薄发。2016年，“善蒸坊”发糕经过层层选拔，作为G20杭州峰会的特供食品摆上了各国首脑的餐桌。同年，在首都北京举行的“首届中国金牌旅游小吃”评选中，善蒸坊荣获金奖。

“新厂房投资近5000万元，生产工艺、储存运输等都具备成熟条件，年销售额达2000万元，达到上规模的标准。”善蒸坊董事长蓝锦国告诉笔者，厂内还设有全国首个糕饼博物馆，通过弘扬中华传统美食文化，重新擦亮“善蒸坊”这块百年金字招牌，为饮食文化源远流长的龙游地方传统美食开辟出一个崭新的时代。

“‘龙游发糕’寓意好，口感也受欢迎，已是龙游美食的‘符号式’代表，成为龙游的一张金名片，产业发展势头初显成效，传统美食文化必将带动地方经济发展。”龙游县美食办负责人王辉介绍，近年来，龙游县委、县政府大力支持以发糕为代表的传统地方特色菜肴和特色小吃在全国推广，打造全县域文化旅游和电子商务“金名片”，实现“旅游+美食”的叠加效应和倍增效应，使龙游美食成为对外宣传交流的新名片、老百姓增收致富的聚宝盆。

Longyou’s Steamed Sponge Cake Industry Keeps Blooming

By  Qiu Zhangfeng

The steamed sponge cake is one of the most famous traditional specialties in Longyou county， Quzhou city. According to Longyou County Annals， the time-honored production of Longyou steamed sponge cakes began in the Ming dynasty （1368-1644）. It is said that when Emperor Qianlong （1711-1799） of the Qing dynasty （1616-1911） tasted Longyou steamed sponge cakes during his trip to the Jiangnan area （south of the Yangtze River）， he highly appreciated its color， fragrance， taste and shape. Thanks to Emperor Qianlong， Longyou steamed sponge cakes had since been offered as a tribute to the imperial court.

In November 2017， the Longyou government issued a policy to promote the healthy development of Longyou steamed sponge cake industry through financial support in terms of technological transformation， scientific and technological innovation， publicity and marketing. By the end of 2020， there had been 15 steamed sponge cake manufacturers， 124 workshops and 162 stores in the county. According to a rough estimate， the total sales revenue of Longyou steamed sponge cake manufacturers， workshops and stores reached a total of 275 million yuan， with a profit of 80 million yuan.

In the Longyou steamed sponge cake industry， Shan Zheng Fang or Good Steaming Workshop， a time-honored brand， is worth mentioning. The owners， Huang Xuemei and her husband Lan Jinguo， are developing a series of standards about， among others， processing techniques， storage and transportation. In fact， Ms. Huang Xuemei herself is an inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage of making steamed sponge cakes.

“As a century-old brand in Longyou， Shan Zheng Fang and the steamed sponge cake are closely related in history，” said Huang. The origins of Shan Zheng Fang， according to Huang， went a long way back， when the ancestors of Lan， her husband， first founded the brand.

It is said that in the 30th year of Emperor Qianlong’s reign （1765）， the emperor went on his fourth tour to the Jiangnan area， where he happily declared that “Jiangnan ren shan zheng ye！” （Jiangnan people are truly good at steaming！） — that is where the name “Good Steaming Workshop” came from. Started as a small workshop by a businessman named Xu Renfu， the store quickly gained popularity and then was transferred to a next-door vendor named Lan Hongbai. Lan took over and began to sell steamed sponge cakes with his shaobing （stuffed flatbread） under the brand， which turned out to be even more successful than before.

In the 1990s， Lan Jinguo， the fourth generation of the Lan family， transformed the old freshly-made-and-sold pattern of small workshops into the Good Steaming Workshop Food Co. Ltd. In 2016， the steamed sponge cakes made by Good Steaming Workshop was selected as one of the specials for the G20 Hangzhou summit. In the same year， it won the gold medal in the first competition， held in Beijing， on the best snacks for tourists in China.

“Longyou steamed sponge cakes taste delicious and they are very popular. It has already been recognized as the representative dish of Longyou cuisine，” introduced Wang Hui， who is in charge of Longyou’s food promotion office. Thanks to the efforts of Longyou government， steamed sponge cakes and other typical local snacks have become Longyou’s new “golden name cards”， attracting tourists from home and abroad， and a cash cow that helps local people to generate more income.