梁明玉：服装设计师的B面

胡婷

“左手霓裳，右手丹青。”这是美术评论家林木对梁明玉的评价。

梁明玉虽然以“服装设计师”的身份为人熟知，但“画家”其实是她作为设计师的B面。孩童时，她就开始学习绘画，几十年来，她的包里始终都有一个速写本，走到哪里就画到哪里。尽管服装设计占据了她大部分时间，但她从未放下手中的画笔。

“服装是一种视觉外延，有着一种外在的华丽，而画画是更深的内心，已经成为一种陪伴。”梁明玉这样总结服装设计与绘画的关系。

"Half a fashioner designer and half a painter." This is how art critic Lin Mu describes Liang Mingyu.

Though gained a reputation as a "fashion designer"， Liang Mingyu has an unbeknown identity - a "painter"， which is her B side as a designer. Began to learn painting since she was a child， she has， for decades， kept hold of her sketchbook wherever she went. Although design takes up most of her time， she never puts down her paintbrush.

"Clothing is a kind of visual extension with an external magnificence， while painting going much deeper and has become a companion of me." summed up Liang Mingyu when talking about the relationship between fashion design and painting.

人生的拼圖The Jigsaw Puzzle of Life

梁明玉的工作室，有一面大大的落地窗。夏日的窗外，三角梅开得正盛。窗前，梁明玉头发高高挽起，一袭白衣。

见到我们，她热情介绍她的最新成果——那是两个方形果盘，梁明玉用了十几年，上面已经有了划痕，她舍不得扔，于是在果盘上画了幅少数民族老绣片上的狮子图案。

像这两个果盘一样被梁明玉翻新的旧物，工作室里还有不少：泛黄的空调外壳画上了她喜欢的花卉；更衣室的外墙装饰着她亲手制作的拼布布艺；用了二十多年的沙发，她用蓝色印花布重新缝制布面，多了些复古的味道……

于是，一件件普通的物件，又获得了新的生命。

或许在梁明玉眼中，这些物件相伴日久，早已有了灵性，而无论服装设计、绘画，抑或是布艺、手工，无非是她在用自己的方式表达对生命的敬意。

“绘画的过程，也是在绘制一幅关于人生的拼图，即使再微小的碎片，都是对生命的记录。”这也是梁明玉所说的陪伴的过程，既是和绘画为伴，也是和这些所记录的生命为伴。在挂满工作室墙壁的作品中，有一幅画着一只小黑狗，表情忧郁。梁明玉说，那是她曾经养的一只小狗，它当时生病了，很痛苦。

梁明玉从小就喜欢小动物，几十年下来，她收养过不少猫猫狗狗，“我把它们都画了下来，尽管它们最后都离开了这个世界，但那些画像还在，成为我永远的个人记忆和情感寄托。”

梁明玉现在还养着9只猫、6条狗，她能准确说出它们的习性：有两只小狗才两个多月，还需要她的照顾；有只小猫咪很聪明，只要帮它按电梯，它就能自己坐电梯下楼去玩……

Liang Mingyu’s studio has a large floor-to-ceiling window. Outside the window， the triangle plum blossom is in full bloom. With her hair rolled up， Liang Mingyu was standing in front of the window in white.

Seeing us， she introduced her latest work -- two square fruit plates to us， which Ms. Liang has used for a couple of years， and have some scratches. So attached to them， she was reluctant to throw them away， and thus drew a lion pattern of old embroidery pieces of ethnic minorities on them.

As these two fruit plates， Liang Mingyu has renovated many old stuff in her studio： the yellowed air conditioner shell painted with her favorite flowers； the exterior wall of the dressing room decorated with patchwork made by herself； newly sewed cloth cover with blue calico for the over 20-year-old sofa， adding a retro flavor...

As a result， ordinary objects have gained a new lease of life.

In Liang Mingyu’s eyes， these stuff have gained life throughout the years. Whether through clothing design， painting， fabric art or handicraft， she is simply expressing her respect for life in her own way.

"The process of painting is also drawing a jigsaw puzzle of life. Even the smallest fragment is a recording of life." This is also what Liang Mingyu called the process of accompanying， not only with painting， but also with these recorded lives. Among the works hanging over the walls of the studio， there’s a picture of a small black dog with a melancholy expression. Liang Mingyu said that it was a puppy she once had. It was ill.

Liang Mingyu liked small animals from an early age. Over the past few decades， she adopted many cats and dogs."I painted pictures for them all， which have become my personal memory and emotional sustenance though they all gone from the living world."

Ms Liang still has 9 cats and 6 dogs and she can tell their habits accurately： two puppies are only over two months old and need special care； a catling is so smart that can even takes the elevator to play by himself if someone push the button...

怦怦的心跳Pounding Heart

這种对生命的关照，让梁明玉的画作极具辨识度，不少朋友都称她的画为“梁氏画”——

《生命》基调忧伤却充满了生命的力量；《青衣》在传统女性的含蓄美中，暗喻了自由与追求……

梁明玉至今记得中学美术老师的话：画石膏素描要有质感，就像能敲响一样。长大后，梁明玉渐渐明白了老师所说的“质感”，尤其是在看过德国版画家、雕塑家柯勒惠支的作品后。

“柯勒惠支经历了两次世界大战，她的作品很有力量，看着她笔下那些饥饿的儿童、无助的母亲，我整个人都陷进去了。”梁明玉说，透过柯勒惠支那些“质感”的作品，她感受到了艺术家的真诚，那是一种用生命诠释艺术的真诚。

真诚，于是成为梁明玉绘画的信条。她眼中的真诚，是对生命本质的刻画，呈现生命最真实的状态。

“读者应该直接去倾听绘画者和被绘者怦怦的心跳。”正如梁明玉很喜欢的一幅画——克里姆特的《吻》——所传递出的画家对爱、幸福与和平的希望。

梁明玉画画时，从不勉强自己去画什么，她说心跳怦怦时自然就会通过画笔流露出来。

“我躺在床上睡觉时，如果有了灵感，就会马上起来创作，不管多晚。”梁明玉想在作品中留下最能打动人心的瞬间，“人生大剧场，有不同的人物和剧情，我想画出丰富多彩而又真挚纯粹的世界。”

This care for life endows Liang Mingyu’s paintings a recognizable look. Many of her friends call her works"Liang’s paintings" --

"Life"， which， with a sad tone， is full of the miraculous force of life； and "Tsing Yi"， which implies freedom and pursuit in presenting the beauty of connotation of traditional women...

Liang Mingyu still remembers words of her high school art teacher： Gypsum sketch should has a texture， as if it can make a sound when being knocked at. As she grew up， she gradually understood what the teacher called "texture"， especially after seeing the works of the German printmaker and sculptor K？the Kollwitz.

"K？the Kollwitz experienced two world wars， so her works are very powerful. I will be completely trapped into them every time I look at the hungry children and helpless mothers in her works." Through K？the Kollwitz’s works with"texture"， Liang Mingyu felt the sincerity of an artist， which is interpreted with life.

Sincerity， therefore， becomes Liang Mingyu’s creed for painting. In her eyes， sincerity is a depiction of the essence of life and presents the most real state of life.

"Readers should listen directly to the pounding heartbeat of the painter and the painted，" as the painter’s hope for love， happiness and peace conveyed in Liang Mingyu’s favorite painting "Kiss" by Klimt.

Liang Mingyu never forces herself to draw with a set topic. She believes that what a painter is thinking about will naturally be revealed through the brush.

"If an inspiration strikes me， I will get up immediately to create even if I am lying in bed， no matter how late." Liang Mingyu is dedicated to leaving the most touching moments in her works."The grand theater of life has a plenty of characters and plots. And the world I’d like to draw is a colorful， sincere and pure one."