文焦俞萍 图金钢
梵净山Mount Fanjing
“披云直上翠微巅,佛国风光信可传。听似管弦山下水,望如丝缕洞中烟。岩高万丈疑无地,路传三叉别有天。回首尘凡频寄语,能来绝处即神仙。”贵州省铜仁市的江口、印江、松桃交界处,得名于“梵天净土”的梵净山坐落于此,山势巍峨、奇峰险峻、怪石嶙峋、树木葱郁,是生态王国,也是佛教圣地,清代诗人廖云鹏就曾作《登梵净山绝顶有感》称颂。今年7月,在第42届世界遗产大会上,梵净山成功列入世界自然遗产名录,成为中国第53处世界遗产、第13处世界自然遗产。
中国摄协会员金钢是土生土长的贵州人,十多年来,他坚持每年春夏秋冬各去一次梵净山,拍摄红云金顶、蘑菇石、瀑布云等梵净山四季不同的景致,用相机记录着梵净山的瑰丽风景,用影像表达着对家乡的热爱和对自然的礼赞。金钢说,梵净山有独特的三重境界——其一为“静”,其二为“净”,其三为“境”,令人心向往之,这正是自己十多年坚持拍摄梵净山的原因。
谈到梵净山,人们对它的第一印象往往是云海。初春时节,飘乎的云、雾、风让这片土地充满了仙气和灵性,金钢便用镜头记录下了这不可多见的风景。晨雾自山谷间袅袅腾起,一重一重,如云天瀑布。而瀑布云也正是梵净山有名的风景,金钢介绍:“梵净山由于独特的山型地貌,以及纬度低、海拔高、多沟谷,森木茂密,雨水充沛,容易形成‘瀑布云’。‘瀑布云’是一股气势宏大的快速云流,流动时像大海一样,静如处子,动如脱兔,每年的春、夏、秋、冬都会有瀑布云。”当云海、瀑布云出现时,梵净山犹如一座安静的“空中之城”,美丽不可方物。
除了云海,梵净山因为得天独厚的地理位置,加之地势起伏较大,往往会形成“一山有四季,十里不同天”的奇特景观。金钢说,把这些美丽怡人的自然景观记录下来,是对人与自然关系的一种可能性思考。他说:“梵净山保存着世界上少有的亚热带原生生态系统,有生物物种近3000种,还有很多珍稀物种,比如黔金丝猴和珙桐等,它们都是净土眷顾的自然之子,在‘梵天净土’的庇佑下,生存、繁衍。我一直在拍摄风光,但风光摄影不只是风花雪月,还有超越光与影的思考,人与自然的关系。”
蘑菇石之秋Autumn of Mushroom-shaped Stone
梵净山作为贵州名山,不仅是国家级自然保护区,更是中国五大佛教名山之一,著名的弥勒菩萨道场,其深厚的佛教文化底蕴不言而喻。著名诗人王心鉴有《过梵净山》一诗:“近山褪俗念,唯有竹声喧。栖心皈净土,推云步梵天。禅雾入幽谷,佛光上苍岩。海内循道者,多来续仙缘”,即印证了梵净山是一个返璞归真、怡情养性的人间仙境。金钢说:“梵净山,得名于‘梵天净土’,是世人的栖心之地。”他介绍,红云金顶是佛山的核心,金顶上的两座老寺庙,最受四方善众朝拜,建在梵净之巅,人们常称之为“空中的庙宇”。而佛光是梵净山最奇特的天象奇观之一,在旭日东升或夕阳西下时,经常可以看到七色光彩组合成的巨大光环,里面佛影端坐,庄严肃穆,其景奇异之极,其光绚丽致极。故而,梵净山成为众多佛教信众参禅访道的圣地,在这里感悟佛的境界。
对于梵净山的申遗成功,金钢的喜悦之情溢于言表。他说:“梵净山能够成功申遗,因为它满足了世界自然遗产生物多样性的标准和完整性的要求,标志着梵净山成功走向全球视野的大舞台。作为一个摄影人,我们应该用手中的相机,记录下梵净山最美的风景。”
梵净山之冬Winter of Mount Fanjing
"Straight up to the sky with Buddha's scenery,beautiful waters amid smoke.High rocks lead to diverse turns.Looking back to the mortal land,turning immortal in reaching the heights." At the junction of Jiangkou,Yinjiang and Songtao in Tongren City,Guizhou Province,the Mount Fanjing named after the "Pure Land" is located here.Featuring steep and rough rocks,and lush trees,it is both an ecological kingdom and a holy land of Buddhism.LIAO Yunpeng,a poet of the Qing Dynasty,once praised the Mount "Sentiment of Mount Fanjing Summit".In July of this year,Mount Fanjing has been successfully included in the World Natural Heritage List at the 42ndWorld Heritage Conference,becoming China's 53rdWorld Heritage site and the 13thsite of World Natural Heritage.
JIN Gang,a member of the Chinese Photographic Association,is a native of Guizhou.For more than a decade,he insisted on climbing Mount Fanjing every spring,summer,autumn and winter,and shooting different views of the four seasons concerning the Red Cloud Golden Summit,Mushroom Stone,and Waterfall Cloud.He used cameras to record the magnificent scenery of Mount Fanjing and expressed his love for hometown and praise for nature via video materials.JIN said that Mount Fanjing has triple unique realm,one of which is"quiet",the second is "pure",and the third is "state",which is the reason for his decade-long endeavors in shooting.
Talking about the Mount Fanjing,people often think of its sea of clouds.In the early spring,the floating clouds,fog and winds made the land full of holy state and spirituality.Jinsteel used the lens to record this rare scenery.The morning fog rises from the valley as if waterfalls from sky,and the waterfall cloud is also the famous scenery of the mountain.According to JIN Gang,"Waterfalls are easily formed in Fanjing due to unique mountainlike landform,with low latitude,high altitude,numerous valleys,dense forest and abundant rainfalls.'Waterfall Cloud' is an imposing rapid clouds flowing like seawater,as quiet as a virgin and as lively as a rabbit.There will be waterfall clouds in spring,summer,autumn and winter every year." When the clouds and waterfalls appear,the Mount Fanjing is like a quiet "castle of the sky",stunningly beautiful.
梵净山云海Cloud Sea of Mount Fanjing
In addition to the sea clouds,Mount Fanjing has a unique geographical location,in addition to the fluctuating terrain,it often forms a strange landscape of"four seasons exist in one mountain at the same time".JIN Gang said that the purpose of recording these beautiful natural landscapes is a possible thinking about the relationship between human being and nature.He said: "The Mount Fanjing preserves the world's rare subtropical native ecosystem with nearly 3,000 species,many are most rare,such as the golden monkey and the phoenix tree,the natural offspring of the pure land.Under the blessing of 'Buddhist Pure Land',we survive and multiply.I have been shooting scenery,but such photography is not just about wind and snow,but more importantly reaching beyond light and shadow and cherishing the relationship between human being and the nature."
As a famous mountain in Guizhou,the Mount Fanjing is not only a national nature reserve,but also one of the five famous Buddhist mountains in China.The profound Buddhist cultural heritage of the renowned Maitreya Bodhisattva rite is self-evident.The famous poet WANG Xinjian has a poem "Climbing Mount Fanjing": "Mortal thoughts fade in approaching the mountain,merely holding the tranquility.The pure land pushes me up to the mountain sky,witnessing Zen fog and light from Buddha.All people come for holy connection."which echoes the fact that Mount Fanjing is a paradise on earth for thorough leisure.JIN Gang said: "For the Mount Fanjing,helping it winning the laurel of 'Pure Land' and being considered a resting place for hearts." He introduced that the red cloud golden top is the core of the holy mountain,and the two ancient temples on the golden top are most worshipped.Built at summit of the mountain,people always refer them to as the "Temple in the air".The light from Buddha is one of the most peculiar celestial wonders of the Mount Fanjing.When the sun rises or sets,people can often witness the huge aura of seven brilliant colors.Inside sits the solemn Buddha,forming extremely strange scenery.
For the success of Mount Fanjing's application for World Heritage,JIN Gang's joy is beyond words.He said: "The reasons of Mount Fanjing's successful application are because it meets the requirements of the standards and integrity of the world's natural heritage biodiversity,marking the mountain has successfully entered into international arena.As a photographer,we should use the cameras in hand to record the most beautiful scenery of the Mount Fanjing and convey the arts from your inner hearts."
蘑菇石之秋Autumn of Mushroom-shaped Stone
梵净山金顶的春天Spring of Mount Fanjing's Gold Top
梵净山云海Cloud Sea of Mount Fanjing