粤菜新“潮”

粤菜新“潮”

广东地处亚热带，四季常青，物产富饶，这使得广东的饮食得天独厚。做法精致、食材新鲜、口味清淡都是广东菜的特点。其中潮州菜更备受美食家推崇 ，在中国美食界地位卓然。

在不同食客的心里，潮州菜的面貌可能截然不同，有可能是一顿热气腾腾的牛肉火锅，有可能是一盘香味四溢的卤鹅头，有可能是一场酣畅淋漓的“打冷”宵夜……《舌尖上的中国》美食顾问、汕头市美食学会主席张新民在应邀参加“重新发现中国味·巡旅”系列活动时接受笔者采访时指出：“潮州菜在食客心目中出现这些不同的面貌和观感，只是整个菜系中不同流派的分支的区别，同时也是中国社会经济文化演进过程中人们在饮食需求上改变的结果。”在上世纪80年代，经济实惠的潮州“打冷”从港澳地区回流进入广州等城市饮食市场，而到了上世纪末本世纪初，中国经济高速发展，人们物质生活需求提高，潮州菜则开始表现出豪华精细的一面……但说到底，潮州筵席才是潮州菜的精华。

潮俗常用“食十二菜桌”来形容潮州筵席的丰盛程度，且十二菜中以硬菜为主，鹅肝、花胶、鲍鱼、龙虾等高端食材尽揽，做法有生腌、白灼、鱼饭、卤制等，看似极简，却又心思满满，即便所用到的调味料、配菜、火候等都必有说法。比如一道白灼香螺，最后上盘时一定要浸润在用心熬制的鸡汤中，此举是为了让响螺的清鲜甘甜愈发明显。而野生紫菜螺头汤里的紫菜，必须要烘烤过的，皆因经过烘烤方能让紫菜的细胞壁自然破裂，迷人的香气一蹿而出。打冷中的鱼饭，新鲜鱼肉是冰镇后直接上桌的，多吃几口难免会发腻，此时沾上些许普宁豆酱，发酵过的酱料会优雅地衬托鱼肉的清甜弹牙，给予鱼饭更绝美的味蕾诱惑。

潮州筵席中，通常还会有酒加持。早在上世纪80年代，使用洋酒佐餐的风潮便开始在潮汕餐桌上盛行，成为给潮州菜增色的神来之笔。这股风潮在世界名酒广泛进入中国饮食消费市场的近十年中愈演愈烈，很多老饕在撰写自己的美食心得时，都会针对各式潮汕名菜给出不同的洋酒配搭。这种组合随着美食家味蕾的进化，从最早期的红白葡萄酒，换成了名品干邑，搭配愈加丰富，品类细分更精确，向高品质国际化方向演进。也正是这一趋势吸引了“重新发现中国味·巡旅”来到汕头，开启一段带有实验性和探索性的美食文化之旅。

Chaozhou beef hotpot潮州牛肉火锅

Chaozhou beef hotpot is very particular about the quality of the fresh beef. The cow has to be freshly slaughtered and butchered, so restaurants are usually located near the abattoir. Cutting techniques are greatly valued. The beef should be hand-sliced into exactly the right thickness. The thinner slices are silky and smooth, while the thicker slices are chewy and satisfying, “to please your throat,” as they call it.

Iced red crab冻红蟹

The iced red crab is one of the must-order dishes of Chaozhou cuisine. Red crabs are a local specialty in Shanwei. The red crabs are steamed, and then iced before being tasted. Red vinegar and Puningmade bean sauce can bring out the mellow fl avour and the popping texture.

Spiced goose卤鹅

In Chaoshan there's a fi ne-breed of goose called “Lion Head”. Spiced goose dates back a long way in Chaoshan. In the past, every household would cook the dish at home: boiled with spices, cooled, sliced into thick pieces, covered with spiced sauce and Chinese parsley, and completed with vinegar-soaked mashed garlic.

Ark shell血蚶

The ark shell was called “shell coins” for the tinkling sound it makes when shells are rubbed against each other. In Chaoshan there's a saying that the more ark shells you eat, the richer you can become. There're two popular ways of cooking ark shells. Scald them in boiling water and eat with sauce, or preserve them with salt and soybean sauce into instant food.

Chaozhou-style cold dish潮式“打冷”

Chaozhou-style cold dish “Da Lang” is a traditional Chaoshan dish made by steaming and cooling all kinds of seafood in natural air. The cooled seafood usually goes with garlic oil or bean sauce, which can bring out the unique freshness of the fi sh. It is said that this kind of cold dish was created by Chaoshan fi shermen by coincidence, but became quite popular and was carried down through generations.

The door to this church in Cartagena is so big that it makes an adult look like a child.卡塔赫纳教堂大门与红衣女子。