性冷淡主义者的遁世哲学

性冷淡主义者的遁世哲学

IS NORMCORE THE NEW SEXY?

When the world seems to chase after the “Hollywood standard of beauty”, there is a much smaller group of people that would rather hide their body in loose jumpers. Modest, low-prof i le, and self-restrained, “the Normcorers” blend easily into the crowd.

Whilst most fi nd their value in public recognition, “the Normcorers”fi nd their true self in Zen and ordinariness.

Text & Translation by Madeline Weng Illustrations by Haolun Zhang Pictures by Getty, Muji, Exception, Trendiano, HKTDC, Dongfang IC

世人偏爱美貌与婀娜，却有一种人唯爱素色与内敛——他们是平凡人中的哲学家，是一个讲究纯净感的集体；他们生性低调谦逊，甘愿隐没在都市的人群中；他们向往返璞归真的纯粹，喜欢穿大一码的棉麻衣衫；他们用平凡释放自我，在平淡中找到通往平静生活的道路。

“性冷淡”关键字

中性 Unisex

匿名性 Anonymous

朴素 Unpretentious

平凡 Normal-Looking

实用 Practical

90年代运动风 90s Sporty Chic

自在 Cozy

格调 Tastefull

In an age when everybody tries to stand out as a unique individual, the trend of normcore goes right against the mainstream, and gets black, white and grey back into fashion. Intentionally, Normcore brands come up with seemingly plain and dulllooking clothes that probably do them little good in building up brand identity.

As a matter of fact, Normcore can actually be the most practical style in the entire fashion industry: since paring clothes can never go too wrong within the Normcore world, wearers no longer need to ponder in front of the mirror every morning. Meanwhile, loose and cotton clothes are obviously more comfortable and raise less weightconsciousness in the wearers.

Def i ned by trend forecaster K-Hole, Normcore embodies an attitude instead of a certain dress code. This philosophical mindset means to help people “f i nd liberation in being nothing special”.

Similarly, in fashion terms, Normcore tries to create a sense of anonymousness. Instead of trying to catch others' attention, Normcore wearers actually show a deeper sense of inner conf i dence and unaffected control of their own thoughts.

With the above said, perhaps Normcore is becoming the new sexy.

A pair of easy-to-wear sports shoes saves you both time and effort.

“一双方便又好穿的运动鞋就是省心王道”

MARGARET HOWELL @2017 Spring/Summer London Men's Fashion Week

MUJI Organic Cotton Blend Double-Knit Pullover无印良品棉混双层编织套头衫

@Menswear Spring/Summer 2017 show Designed by Yohji Yamamoto2017春夏巴黎男装周山本耀司秀场

例外EXCEPTION

@CENTRESTAGE, Hong Kong JNBY Autumn/Winter 2016 show江南布衣2016年秋冬发布会

Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy -but mysterious. But above all black says this: "I don't bother you - don't bother me."

山本耀司对黑色的著名见解：“黑色是一种谦虚的颜色，同时它又很傲慢。它慵懒简单，却又充满神秘。黑色传递着这样一种信息：‘我不烦你，你也别来烦我。’”

@CENTRESTAGE, Hong Kong“Addendum”, designed by Lee Tak-shing, first Runner-up of YoungFashion Designers' Contest第40届“香港青年时装设计家创作表演赛”亚军李德诚的获奖作品

在这个张扬个性的年代，“无个性”竟也成为了最吸引人的个人标签之一。“性冷淡风”与时尚界一向来推崇的极尽奢华反叛而行，开始回归灰白黑，并不惜降低品牌辨识度，有意制造出看似单调，甚至看似毫无特色的服装。这类服装除了舒适又遮肉，还能做到真正意义上的百搭：黑白灰杏色任意搭配都依然融洽，不必担心过季、显胖或是场合的问题，省去每天苦思穿衣搭配的时间。

实际上，“性冷淡风”指的不仅仅是某种特定的着装守则，更是一种去繁求简的高级智慧。“性冷淡主义者”用极简主义的生活方式克制自己对物质的繁杂欲念，为自我思考和追求腾出更多的冥想空间。

虽然被冠以“性冷淡”的名头，这种着装方式和处世之道反而有可能重新定义都市人眼中的性感。

Y3创始人山本耀司曾经说过：“我对卖弄风情的女人丝毫不感‘性趣’。相反地，一位专心踏踩缝纫机的女性背影，或是聚精会神缝衣服时的侧影都会让我感受到一股强烈的情欲。我极其渴望去尊重和帮助那些在社会上立足，为生计打拼的女性。”

无独有偶，比利时设计师马丁·马吉拉（Martin Margiela）也提出了相似的审美见解：他反对传统审美对理想女性的身体的要求和定义，创造了“平面成衣”。这种衣服在没有被穿上时看起来是完全的平面。

@Milan Men's Fashion Week SS17Designed by Rodolfo PaglialungaSS17米兰国际男装周鲁道夫·帕里亚伦加品牌秀

@New York Fashion Week September 2016 Berenik2016纽约时装周

@ Menswear Spring/Summer 2017 show, Paris Fashion Week Designed by Yohji Yamamoto2017春夏巴黎男装周，山本耀司品牌秀场