AI条款十周年纪念

Marc Spears

How the NBAs fashion game has evolved in the 10 years since the 2005 dress code.

自2005年执行着装令后，NBA时尚在十年间完成了怎样的演化……

Ten years ago on Oct. 17， 2005， NBA players received a surprising memo from then-commissioner David Stern. A league-wide dress code was going into effect. No more baggy jeans. No fitted baseball caps. No XXXL white T-shirts. No Timberland boots. Oversized necklaces – even ones with religious pendants – were also out.

十年前的2005年10月17日，NBA球员从当时的总裁大卫·斯特恩那里收到了一份意料之外的备忘录。着装令就此在全联盟范围内生效。不许再穿肥大的牛仔裤，不许戴定制的棒球帽，不许穿超大号的白色T恤，不许穿Timberland的靴子。超大号的项链——甚至挂着宗教吊坠的项链都是被禁止的。

Players were not happy. Some jokingly called it the "A.I. rule" after Philadelphia 76ers guard Allen Iverson. Some thought it was racist toward black players or a slap at the hip-hop community.

球员们不高兴。有人开玩笑地将其称为“AI规则”，得名于76人后卫阿伦·艾弗森。有人认为这是针对黑人球员的种族歧视，是对嘻哈文化的打击。

"I remember a lot of guys being upset with it，" said San Antonio Spurs forward David West， who was then playing for the New Orleans Hornets. "A lot of guys thought they were being too intrusive. … I just remember felling like，Damn， Im a grown man and someone is telling me what to wear. "

“我记得有很多人对此感到不爽。”圣安东尼奥马刺前锋大卫·韦斯特表示，当时他是新奥尔良黄蜂的一员，“很多人认为规定冒犯了自己……我记得自己当时心里想的就是，‘妈的，我是成年人，还得让别人告诉我穿什么。”

The NBAs mandatory dress code was for all NBA and NBDL players， who were expected to wear business-casual attire while participating in team and NBA activities that included arriving at games， departing games， conducting interviews and making promotional and other appearances. Specific penalties werent announced， but repeat violators were subject to fines.

NBA的强制着装令适用于所有NBA和NBDL球员，在参加球队和NBA活动时，包括抵达或离开赛场、参加采访、参加宣传或其他活动，他们必须穿上商务正装。联盟没有公布具体的惩罚措施，但多次违反规定将会被罚款。

"It was like us versus the league，" former Detroit Pistons guard Chauncey Billups said， "and there was a little tag going on us on who we were and what we represented， the black players， the whole hip-hop culture."

“感觉就是我们在对抗联盟。”前底特律活塞后卫昌西·比卢普斯表示，“我们是什么人、代表什么都有着标签，我们是黑人球员，代表整个嘻哈文化。”

Ten years later， the NBAs sense of style has evolved to the point where several stars routinely make their own unique fashion statements.

十年后，NBA里的时尚风格已经演变成为了几位明星球员经常做出独特时尚声明。

"It was kind of weird，" Golden State Warriors coach Steve Kerr said. "A predominantly black league with a white commissioner telling everybody what they had to wear. I wasnt sure how I felt about that. And I was wrong."

“这有些奇怪。”勇士主教练史蒂夫·科尔说，“一个主要由黑人球员组成的联盟，要由一个白人总裁告诉他们应该穿什么。我不确定自己的感受。我错了。”

The NBA didnt think it needed a dress code in the 1980s when many players wore business attire clothing while flying on commercial planes with their teams. NBA stars like Julius Erving， Magic Johnson， Michael Jordan， Clyde Drexler， James Worthy and Alex English looked typically sharp when they arrived to games in the 1980s. Drexler believes NBA players began dressing more casually as teams started using charter planes in the early 1990s.

上世纪80年代，当球员们穿着商务正装，和球队一起乘坐普通航班时，NBA不觉得有颁布着装令的必要。像朱利叶斯·欧文、“魔术师”约翰逊、迈克尔·乔丹、克莱德·德雷克斯勒、詹姆斯·沃西和阿莱克斯·英格利什在1980年代抵达球馆时，他们的穿着都很职业。德雷克斯勒认为，随着球队在1990年代初开始使用包机，NBA球员才开始穿着越来越休闲。

"We were pretty serious about how we dressed，" Drexler said. "I always had a personal tailor. Most teams had dress codes when traveling until most started chartering around 1990， 1991. Detroit was the first team to charter. Portland was the second.

“我们很认真地对待自己的穿着。”德雷克斯勒说，“我有私人裁缝。绝大多数球队都有着装令，直到1990年，或1991年，球队开始有包机后。活塞是第一个有包机的，开拓者是第二个。”

"Once both Portland and Detroit played in the 1990 NBA Finals， most teams thought it created an advantage to charter. Then everyone started to charter."

“开拓者和活塞双双进入1990年总决赛后，大多数球队认为包机能够带来优势。所以，所有球队都开始包机了。”

Los Angeles Lakers coach Byron Scott， who won three championships as a guard with the Lakers in the 1980s， said players during his day simply wanted to look good.

洛杉矶湖人主教练拜伦·斯科特1980年代作为后卫跟随湖人拿到过三个总冠军，他说他那个年代的球队，想的只是让自己看上去精神一些。

"We wore sport coats to the airport and slacks，" Scott said. "You didnt have to put in a dress code and rule."

“去机场时我们穿的是运动外套和宽松的裤子。”斯科特说，“没必要制定着装令。”

In the 1990s， hip-hop culture became popular with young adult fashion with its relaxed， baggy and sports-geared clothing. You didnt have to be from the so-called "hood" to be attracted to dressing that way. And it wasnt only black kids wearing the clothes.

1990年代，嘻哈文化凭借休闲、肥大和体育主题，在年轻人中流行起来。无须出身“贫民区”，你也会被那样的服装吸引。那样穿衣服的不只是黑人孩子。

"I was in the era of when guys， especially rappers， were wasting tons of money， including myself， on extravagant， unnecessary and oversized jewelry，" former NBA player Jason Richardson said.

“那个时代的人，尤其是说唱歌手，把太多的钱花在了奢侈而不必要的珠宝上，包括我。”前NBA球员贾森·理查德森表示。

The majority of NBA season-ticket holders， however， were older， well off and couldnt relate to hip-hop fashion.

但NBA大多数季票持有人的年龄更大、生活环境更好，嘻哈时尚无法引起他们的共鸣。

"I guess they wanted people in the arena to feel like they were at a business type of function，" said Warriors center Andrew Bogut， who was a rookie with the Milwaukee Bucks when the rule was implemented.

“我猜他们想让坐在球馆里的人感觉自己在参加商务活动。”勇士中锋安德鲁·博古特说，着装令实施时，他还是雄鹿的新秀。

Former NBA player Grant Hill said then-Orlando Magic coach Johnny Davis asked him and teammate Pat Garrity to have a players-only meeting to come up with team rules for the 2004-05 season. The topics included fines for being late or missing practices and games， dress code and more. Hill said the players were in favor of a relaxed dress code.

前NBA球员格兰特·希尔说，当时魔术主教练约翰尼·戴维斯要他和队友帕特·加雷蒂召开只有球员参加的会议，制订2004-05赛季的球队规定。他们的议题包括对迟到或缺席训练、比赛罚款，着装规则等等。希尔说，球员们希望能有更宽松的着装规则。

"Literally， the team voted and it was like， You can wear anything but shorts and sandals， " Hill said. "I was like， Are you guys sure about this？ So we went and presented it to Johnny Davis as coach and he was like， No.

“球队的投票其实就是‘只要不穿短裤和拖鞋，其他都没问题。”希尔说，“我说，‘你们确定？我们把这个拿给教练约翰尼·戴维斯看，他说：‘不行。”

The "Malice at the Palace" brawl between the Indiana Pacers and Pistons on Nov. 19， 2004， in Auburn Hills， Mich.， also contributed to the NBAs decision to implement a dress code. The rule went into effect with the oneyear anniversary of the brawl on the horizon to counter image problems that hampered its then recent history.

2004年1 1月19日，在密歇根州奥本山爆发的步行者与活塞的“奥本山宫殿斗殴事件”，也是NBA决定推出着装令的原因之一。着装令的颁布时间正好在斗殴事件发生的一周年纪念日，目的就是为了应对近年来恶性事件对联盟形象产生的不良影响。

Billups was among those who heard the NBAs dress code referred to as the "A.I. rule." Iverson frequently wore hip-hop gear off the court and to games. In 2003， he wore a Milwaukee Bucks jersey and hat to NBA All-Star media availability while playing for the Sixers. He also wore a Michigan State jersey on the bench while sidelined during a USA Basketball Olympic qualifying game. Former Sixers forward Andre Iguodala said Iverson bought several oversized suits to adhere to the dress code.

比卢普斯听说过NBA着装令被叫成“AI规则”的说法。艾弗森经常在球场内外穿着嘻哈装备。2003年还在为76人打球时，他穿着雄鹿的队服、戴着雄鹿的帽子参加了全明星采访。在美国男篮的奥运预选赛上，他还穿着密歇根州大的队服坐在板凳上。前76人前锋安德烈·伊戈达拉表示，为符合着装令规定，艾弗森买了几套肥大的西服。

"Allen wasnt a fan of it，" said Iguodala， now with the Warriors. "Allen just wanted to be comfortable. He wasnt trying to just be a rebel without a cause. He was like， I just want to be comfortable. I just want to go to the game and play basketball. He didnt want to be uptight or feel restricted.

“阿伦不满意这个规定。”现在是勇士一员的伊戈达拉表示，“阿伦只想穿得舒服。他不想无缘无故地做一个叛逆者。他的意思是，‘只是想让自己舒服一些，我只是想打篮球。他不愿意感到拘谨，不愿意被约束。”

Richardson was playing for the Warriors at the time and said he thought the dress code targeted blacks and the hip-hop generation. He wanted the NBA Players Association to get it reversed."Its funny how you mature and look back at things youve done or said and grow from them，" Richardson said. "At the time， being young， I thought it was a personal attack to most of the guys in the NBA."

当时为勇士打球的理查德森认为，着装令针对的是黑人及受嘻哈文化影响的一代人。他希望球员工会能推翻这个规定。“当你成熟后，回头再看自己做过的事、说过的话，看到自己的成长，这很有意思。”理查德森说，“那时候作为年轻人，我觉得那是对大多数NBA球员的人身攻击。”

But there were also black NBA players and coaches who didnt have a problem with the dress code.

但也有不介意着装令的黑人球员和教练。

"I was old school，" Hill said. "I was already dressed in suits and was trying to look professional."

“我是个老派的人。”希尔说，“我穿的就是西服，我想让自己表现得很职业。”

Scott， then the coach of the New Jersey Nets， also didnt have an issue with the rule.

那时担任篮网主教练的斯科特对这个规定也没有异议。

Jason Richardson said he thought the dress code targeted blacks and the hip-hop generation. He wanted the NBA Players Association to get it reversed."Its funny how you mature and look back at things youve done or said and grow from them."

贾森·理查德森认为，着装令针对的是黑人及受嘻哈文化影响的一代人。他希望球员工会能推翻这个规定。“当你成熟后，再看自己做过的事、说过的话，看到自己的成长，这很有意思。”

West， however， ignored the rule and continued to wear sweats to games. His wallet faced the consequences. He said the league had fashion police at NBA arenas， and they took pictures and reported players who didnt adhere to the dress code.

不过韦斯特无视规定，仍然穿着T恤参加比赛。他因此受到了经济惩罚。他说联盟在球馆里安排了“时尚警察”，他们拍下照片，举报没有遵守着装令的球员。

"I didnt really change much，" West said. "I got fined a couple times because Id rather be comfortable. My comfort comes first before anybody else."

“我没做太多改变。”韦斯特说，“我被罚了几次款，因为我宁愿让自己感到自在些，我感觉自己舒服最重要。”

And it wasnt just players who embraced hip-hop culture who struggled with the dress code. Bogut said Bucks teammate Toni Kukoc also was reprimanded.

事实上，和着装令产生了冲突的并不只有接纳嘻哈文化的球员，博古特说，他的雄鹿队友托尼·库科奇也受到过惩罚。

"I remember Toni Kukoc wore just wore a turtleneck， a [James] Bond type of turtleneck， with a jacket， and he got a warning for it，" Bogut said. "It was crazy. At that point， they were real strict. They wanted collared shirts. They thought he was trying to be demonstrative."

“我记得托尼·库科奇穿了件高领套头衫，像詹姆斯·邦德一样的高领，外面穿了件夹克，结果他被警告了。”博古特说，“这太疯狂了。那时候他们真的很严，他们要求穿带领的衬衣，他们认为他想公开表达什么。”

Oklahoma City Thunder guard Russell Westbrook has been lauded for his style and has an endorsement deal with Barneys New York. Lakers guard Nick Young and his girlfriend， singer Iggy Azalea， are Forever 21 models. Warriors guard Stephen Curry had a deal with the clothing company Express last season.

现如今，俄克拉荷马雷霆后卫拉塞尔·威斯布鲁克的风格广受外界称赞，他和纽约的巴尼百货签下了协议。湖人后卫尼克·杨和他的女朋友、歌手Iggy Azalea是Forever 21的模特。勇士后卫斯蒂芬·库里上赛季和服装公司Express签了协议。

"Fashion in the NBA has been big for both sides， the fashion industry and the NBA，" Young said. "Its been 10 years since the dress code came out？ Thats crazy. I remember trying to buy a suit.

“NBA的时尚对双方都很重要，无论是时装界还是NBA。”杨说，“距离着装令出台已经10年了？太疯狂了，我还记得自己去买西服的事。”

"Were professionals. You have to dress the part. But we made it even better. People starting getting more fashion forward."

“我们是很职业的，你必须穿那样的衣服，但我们做得更好。人们在时尚方面开始越来越前卫了。”

Still， there are other players like West who could still care less.

当然，还有像韦斯特这种对此毫不关心的球员。

"Im still not one of those guys who are going to come here all decked out and then get sweaty，" said West， who was wearing a Spurs sweatsuit after a recent preseason game. "I dont rock like that."

“我还是不能成为那种穿得整整齐齐进场、离场满身是汗的人。”韦斯特说，最近一场季前赛结束后，他穿了件马刺的T恤，“我不穿那样的衣服。”