Gods,Art and Ocean Life

THE island of Xiamen hugs close to the mainland in a sheltered bay in the countrys southeast. Xiamen Citys urban areas， which crowd the northwestern side of the island， have long since spilled over and crossed the narrow channel that separates it from Chinas coast， but much of the island has remained sparsely populated， including the southeastern shoreline where the small fi shing village of Zengcuoan is located.

Until recently Zengcuoan has been overshadowed by the lure of nearby Gulangyu， a scenic islet with inviting beaches and lush vegetation. This however has turned out to be a disguised blessing， as its obscurity has thus far saved it from commercialization and brash modernity.

Like most towns in Chinas coastal areas that were among the fi rst to interact with the rest of the world， Zengcuoan is a melting pot of cultures. Among its residents are Taoists， Buddhists， Muslims and Christians as well as followers of a local indigenous religion Shengma， or Holy Mother. This diversity is also refl ected in the villages architecture， whose typical redbrick structures of Fujian mingle with buildings bearing unmistakable Western features.

In addition to migrant workers and businesspeople from across the country attracted by its convenient trading location， this hidden gem has in recent years become home to a large community of artists ranging from painters and sculptors to musicians， fi lmmakers and even architects. This eclectic blend， combined with locals， infuses Zengcuoan with an inclusiveness that adds a welcoming vibe to the plentiful guesthouses and bars， where you can make new friends and enjoy a huge variety of performances year round.

Beauty for Discerning Eyes

We arrived in Xiamen at night. Seen from the descending airplane the city was a cluster of blazing lights that eclipsed the starry canopy above. But our final destination – Zengcuoan – was so quiet and nondescript that I didnt give it a second look when our taxi drove past and onto our hotel in Huangcuo， two bus stops from the village.

We didnt waste a second and as soon as we checked in headed towards the village under the cover of darkness. The regal Fuhai Palace rose into sight to greet us as we approached.

Lavishly decorated and in the unmistakable style of southern Fujian， the complex is a shrine dedicated to the sea goddess Matsu and Grand Emperor Baosheng， a revered doctor of the 11th century who was canonized by Taoists. Matsu is also a Taoist figure and is primarily worshipped by sailors， merchants and fishermen in the coastal areas.

These two icons have been of great importance to this seagoing community， whose men folk have had to undergo long， treacherous voyages fraught with disease and malnourishment.

Within a stones throw of the temple is the Zeng familys ancestral hall which functions as a “temple cafe” on unconsecrated days. Humbled by the serenity of our surroundings and sense of history， we sat down under the star-filled sky and planned our next days adventure.

Spiritual Sanctuary

Being so close to Gulangyu， we made the journey over to the islet. Compared to Zengcuoan， it is overwhelmingly commercialized and overdeveloped. I left with a greater appreciation of the pristine beauty of Zengcuoan.

On our return， the village seemed lost in a fissure of time and space， untouched by the tides of history. It is a world away from the city life bustling so close to it. Though modernity has crept into almost every corner of the planet， idyllic scenes still dominate here.

The first settlement in what later evolved into todays Xiamen， Zengcuoan was once the center of island life， evident in its diverse confluence of faiths. For over 1，000 years villagers have worshiped the sea goddess Matsu. They seek her protection for their daily fishing activities.

A Christian church is also nearby， where a pastor from Taiwan gives mass in the local dialect to an assembly of believers young and old. In the vicinity of the village are a Buddhist temple and Muslim tombs whose origins have been lost in time. It is remarkable that such a small community so successfully and respectfully tends to such diverse religious needs.

Artistic Colony

Now under a Xiamen commuter town where rents are much lower than those in the urban center， Zengcuoan has seen an influx of migrants includ- ing both laborers and recent college graduates. With a pokey studio apartment， a small pub or a home shared with other like-minded tenants， they have made the village the first stop in their long and rough journey to achieve their dreams in the city.

Perhaps the most interesting arrival is that of the artists who have developed a vibrant artistic community that has become part of Zengcuoans identity. Their touch can be seen everywhere， with walls and even fire hydrants adorned with murals and artistic graffiti， and posters for independent films crowding the village committees billboard. Their influence can also be detected in the whimsical names of the more than 100 eateries， inns and bars， each with its own personality， such as Dream Traveler and See You on Sunny Days， which shuts down when it rains.

When I heard about the government-funded commercial street that was under construction I was concerned for these unique businesses expressing the individual tastes and characters of their owners. But the rents suggested are reasonable and space has been set aside for artistic endeavors. The government wont meddle with the natural flow of the local market.

This is a blessing， because it would be impossible to copycat the small businesses in Zengcuoan without losing the ingenuity behind their details. The creative freedom of the village is why it has become a gem among Chinas travel destinations， compared to the many Chinese beach resorts that have mirrored Gulanyus experience and lost their charm.

Travel Tips

Transport

Xiamen is conveniently connected with the rest of the country by air， land and water. Zengcuoan is at the eastern section of Huandao Road， Xiamen， 40 minutes drive from both the Gaoqi International Airport and Xiamen Railway Station.

Sites of Interest：

Matsu Palace

The complex stands by the Zengcuoan bus stop， facing the sea. According to local folklore， the goddess was a girl who drowned in the sea and was buried on the shore. She later became the local Taoist patron saint of fishermen. Local opera is performed on a stage by the palace for two months beginning every October. It is the villages biggest annual event.

The Ancestral Hall of the Zeng Family

First built in the 12th century， the structure was burnt down during a conflict and rebuilt in 1992. The shrine dedicated to the Zeng ancestors is closed throughout the year except on Tomb Sweeping Day in early April and Midwinter Day in late December， when sacrificial rituals are conducted. Part of the property was transformed into a café in 2010.

Bridge Church

Services and choir performances are conducted every Sunday morning and community classes are given on subjects such as Classical Chinese in the afternoon.

Old Harbor

With an impressive display of photos of Xiamen from the late 1800s and the 1900s， the restaurant doubles as a history museum. The shots document the evolution of the coastal city as it expanded around its harbor and the adjacent fishing hamlet of Zengcuoan.

Huangcuo

A newly developed tourist resort， Huangcuo is within walking distance of Zengcuoan. It also boasts many inns and hotels as well as inviting beaches that look out onto the Kinmen Islands.

Other Scenic Resorts in Xiamen

Gulanyu

The island faces Xiamen. Seawater erosion has resulted in numerous cavities in its rock formation， which amplify the booms of the waves that pound its shores.

A community of foreign diplomats and businesspeople emerged on the island after Xiamen became one of the five ports forced to open to international trade after the Qing Empire lost the First Opium War in 1842. They brought with them architectural features from all over the world， including 13 foreign embassies and numerous villas particularly from the Philippines， Malaysia and Singapore.

Xiamen University： Founded in 1921 by Tan Kah Kee， a patriotic leader among overseas Chinese， the university is numbered among the best Chinese higher edu- cation institutions. Besides its teaching excellence it is widely acknowledged as having the most beautiful campuses in the country.

Add： 422 Siming South Road， Xiamen

Transport： Take buses No.1， No.96 or No.122 from the Xiamen Railway Station Square.

Southern Putuo Temple

Built in the 10th century， the monastery is located in the vicinity of Xiamen University and is the most revered Buddhist sight in southern Fujian. From its hill visitors can overlook the university campus and the Xiamen Port. The temple is also credited with serving the best vegetarian food in the city.

Add： 515 Siming South Road， Xiamen

Admission： Free， with a free incense stick for each visitor

Transport： Buses No.1， 15， 21， 45， 841， 751， 959 all stop at the temple.

Jimei Educational Village

Jimei is the birthplace of patriotic overseas Chinese Tan Kah Kee. To promote education in his hometown Mr. Tan built a number of schools from the 1910s to 1950s. It is now host to educational facilities ranging from preschools to colleges with students exceeding 10，000.

Overseas Chinese played a large role in the history of Xiamen， which was the major exit point for Fujian people seeking fortunes abroad. The birth and growth of private industry in Xiamen owes much to their contributions. The provinces first ocean shipping company， first railway and first inland shipping services were all founded by overseas Chinese. Transport： Buses 18， 50， 52， 53， 54， 55， 56， 66 and 67 found either at the Xiamen Railway Station or Xiamen University all stop at the village.