时尚“皱”

Ｍｏｎｉｃａ　Ｂｅｒｎａｒｄｅｓ

04月 Beauty（美人志） 编者按：每一年寒冬还未消退时，时尚界的潮人们就已经乘着清新的春风为大家带来灵动的美丽，在世界几大时尚中心上演一场场美轮美奂的时装秀，这也预示着今年的流行风向标，抓住了它们，你也就抓住了今年的时尚脉搏。无论如何，就让我们随着一次次流动的盛会来打造属于自己的美丽。那么，今年到底流行什么呢？

Some say spring is an optimistic time of hope and new beginnings... And this seasons fashion reflects this mood in a wonderful array of bright colours and textures of clothing that seem to have been designed with that feelgood touch in mind.

有人说春天是一个充满希望和新的开始的欢乐季节……这个季节的时尚潮流也通过一系列明艳动人的色彩以及让人心情愉悦的靓丽时装绝佳地体现了这种积极的心态。

If you are one of those that like fashion but cant afford the professional hand of a stylist, ruffles or frills are the trend to pay attention to and, if your savings are still above the red line in these tough times, invest in without much of a thought. If you like feminine, romantic fashion, then ruffles are surely bringing this back into the spotlight and one of the reasons is that they are very easy to wear - delicate enough for daytime, but can be ultra glam at night as well, used all over garments, in many different ways. There are tiered ruffled skirts, peplum waists with multiple layers of ruffles, over the bust ruffles and garments made entirely with ruffles. There are also waterfall ruffles, tailored ruffles, tiny, huge, ruffles around collars, on the edge of a sleeve.

如果你是潮人一族但无法负担专业品牌款式设计的巨额花费，那么褶皱就是你要留心的潮流；如果你的积蓄在这些艰难的日子里处于红色警戒线之上，那么你可以毫不犹豫地一掷千金；如果你喜欢温柔、浪漫的时尚，那么毫无疑问，褶皱将这种潮流带回聚光灯下，其中一个原因就是因为它的百搭——日装足够精致，晚装又足够冶艳，可以用于多种服饰，多种不同的设计。有褶皱裙、多层褶皱式短裙、及胸的褶皱花边和满是褶皱的上衣。还有瀑布纹褶皱花边、特意剪裁的褶皱花边、大小各异的褶边领口和褶边袖。

If you didnt have time to take a look at every fashion show, well, I did it for you. Here is how some designers displayed a trend from the 16th century:

如果你没有时间去欣赏每一个时装秀，那么，我来为你效劳吧。让我们来看看一些服装设计师如何重现16世纪的风情：

New York Fashion Week

纽约时装周

Along with Paris, London and Milan, New York Fashion week is one of the big four fashion events and in the Spring/Summer 2009 collections ruffles were a clear trend. The American designer, Zac Posen delivered a collection which was both very traditional and comfortable. The color palette was a soothing pastel array amongst classic tailoring and the flair came in the form of ruffles – romantic and modern.

纽约时装周和巴黎、伦敦以及米兰一起并列为四大时尚盛事，2009年的春夏时装展上，褶皱是明显的潮流。美国设计师扎克•珀森的设计集传统和舒适于一身。这些服装展上的色彩就像是古典设计中悦目柔和的色调，并以浪漫、现代的褶皱花边完美体现出来。

Chic is the word to define Philip Lims collection. The American-Chinese designers creations have a Spanish influence – ruffles, ruffles and more ruffles showed up on dresses, tops, skirts, trenches and shoes. I mean, not shoes, but Louboutin 4 heels ruffled shoes.时髦是用于定义菲利林服装的特有词汇。这个美籍华裔的设计师的设计受到西班牙风格的影响——褶皱、褶皱，还有连衣裙、上衣、裙子、风衣和鞋子上都是褶皱。我的意思是，不是普通的鞋子，而是鲁布托褶皱高跟鞋。

Simplicity was the choice made by Chris Han – another American-Chinese designer, who presented a beautiful collection for all kinds of women and all kinds of situations. Structured and tailored trousers and jackets were balanced with lightweight ruffled blouses and skirts making a romantic grown-up look.

简约是另一位美籍华裔设计师韩•克里斯的风格——为每一类女性以及每一种场合设计了美丽的服装。制作剪裁有致的裤子和夹克与带小花边的衬衫以及短裙相得益彰，营造出一种浪漫的成熟韵味。

Mixing Old World with the New, Australian Aurelio Costarella brought to the catwalk what he calls Dallia look – an asymmetrical blouse or dress with ruffles at the collar. The ruffled blouse with a black cigarette pant gave the perfect balance between the 16th and 21th ceturies.融合旧世界和新世界的特点，澳大利亚设计师Aurelio Costarella把称为Dallia——有褶皱领口的不对称衬衫或者长裙的设计风格带到伸展台。而褶皱衬衫与黑色吸烟裤将16世纪和21世纪的风情完美结合。

For Venezuelan Carolina Herrera Spring is all about the ruffles. No floral, no girlie, no walk in the park. They were designed for cocktail hour and beyond. Ruffles and petals adorned nearly every look – night gown with multiple ruffle layering, ruffled dresses in shades of red, black, blue. She also plays with contrast, pairing a slim cigarette pants with a ruffle-hem jacket.

对于委内瑞拉的卡罗琳娜•海莱娜来说，春季就属于褶皱。这些时装不仅仅用来装饰，不仅仅用来欣赏，不仅仅用于花园漫步。它们是为鸡尾酒会或者更多这种晚宴而设计。褶皱和花边几乎无所不能——多层褶皱睡裙，各种红、黑色或者蓝色的褶皱长裙。她还注重对比，将修身的吸烟裤配上褶皱边的夹克。

Paris Fashion Week

巴黎时装周

House of many of the worlds top designers including Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Lanvin, Chloé, Yves Saint-Laurent and shoe designer Christian Louboutin, Paris Fashion Week attracts fashion buyers and journalists from around the globe. And there, ruffles were anchoring many collections. At Karl Lagerfelds collection for Chanel ruffles came in form of flamenco western skirts long and black.

拥有多位世界顶尖设计师像可可•香奈儿、克里斯汀•迪奥、路易•威登、朗雯、珂洛艾伊、伊夫•圣罗兰以及皮鞋设计师克里斯提•鲁布托，巴黎时装周吸引了众多来自世界各地的时尚买家和记者的眼球。在那里，褶皱也是很多时装的主打特色。卡尔•拉格菲尔德的香奈儿系列褶皱时装采用了修长和黑色的弗拉门戈式西部短裙。

John Gallianos ruffled skirts were the opposite - flippy floral and mini paired with a silk floral blouse and high heels in a total romantic and sexy look.约翰•加利亚诺的褶皱裙正好相反——带花边的蓬松迷你短裙配上丝制褶皱花边衬衫和高跟鞋，显得浪漫而性感。

Famous for his not-so-ready-to-wear collections, Christian Lacroixs spring collection is more commercial and, yes, there were ruffles on sleeves but they also emigrated to the back of dress creating such a sublime sense of movement and grace.

以“非成衣”服装而闻名，克里斯汀•拉克鲁瓦的春季时装更商业化，每一个袖口都有褶皱，他们还在长裙背后也添加了褶皱设计，显得异常的高雅。

At Givenchy show the ruffle is a clear trend this Spring/Summer. They adorned nearly every dress in shades of red, black, and blue, all combined for a classic look and a classic feel. 纪梵希也在春夏季时装秀上展示了绝对的褶皱潮流。他们几乎在衣服的每一种红黑蓝上都添加了这种设计，无论从视觉还是感官上都极具古典气息。

London Fashion Week

伦敦时装周

Considered the most creative fashion week, LFW is famous for featuring some of the worlds most avant-garde designers. And ruffles also dominated the catwalk at London Fashion Week. Michael Herz made a collection for Aquascutum almost entirely with white and blues. He created interest with ruffles in all white looks - a crisp white ruffled dress over a white-ruffled loose pant, and in all blue look – a dress with frills on the front down. Cobalt blue on one shouldered dress (another big trend) with ruffles made quite an impact.

被尊为最有创意的时装周，伦敦时装周以拥有一批世界先锋设计师而闻名于世。而褶皱也占领了伦敦时装周的伸展台。迈克尔•赫兹为雅格狮丹设计的服装几乎全是白色和蓝色。他在白色服装上都设计了有趣的小褶皱——清爽的白色褶皱长裙搭配白色宽松褶皱花边裤，而前面有花边的长裙则是全蓝。单肩（另一种潮流走向）的钻石蓝褶皱长裙也相当具有冲击力。

Speaking of impact, Christopher Kane, the Scottish designer, presented the newest form for ruffles: petals, leaves or circles in cascading tiers, which evoke exotic creatures. There was, for example, a dress in snakeskin with ruffles from neck to toe.

说到冲击力，苏格兰设计师克里斯多弗•凯恩展示了最新褶皱设计款式：花瓣、叶子或者是瀑布纹，异域风情呼之欲出，还有像从脖子到脚趾的蛇皮褶皱长裙。

Canadian designer Erdem, whose dresses are adored by Claudia Schiffer, Chloe Sevigny, Kirsten Dunst and Keira Knightley, delivered a collection with romantic Victorian-inspired dresses adorned with multiple ruffles on the sleeves or cascading down the back of a trapeze dress。

加拿大设计师艾尔丹姆备受克劳迪娅•希弗、科洛•塞维尼、克尔斯滕•邓斯特以及凯拉•奈特利等明星的追捧，她赋予了时装一种浪漫的维多利亚情怀，多层褶皱的袖口和满背瀑布褶皱的梯形裙就是最好的证明。

Alice Temperleys collection was also very feminine with silk dresses adorned with delicate, cascading ruffles. Inspired by French seaside scenes of the 1930s, she created a sweet and romantic collection with some masculine touches, like a pantaloon or a tailored suit, providing a contrast to her silk ruffled blouses and dresses. Very chic.

爱丽丝•坦布雷的时装是用精致的瀑布褶皱丝制长裙，显得很有女人味。受到上个世纪三十年代法国海滩场景的影响，她设计了一系列甜美、浪漫又有几分英气的服装，像裤子和女士西装，与丝制褶皱衬衫和长裙形成鲜明对比。非常俏丽。

How to Wear

如何装扮

Ruffles are great for any occasion. The rule to wear them is the same for animal print – one item at a time. Do not wear a ruffled shirt with a ruffled skirt, a ruffled handbag or shoes. Remember less is always more. Well-placed ruffles can create a structured volume wherever you want or need. No hips? Try tiers of tiny ruffles. But be carefull: a ruffle diagonally across the middle, as on many dresses, will just hide your waist, making you look squat. Small bust? Wear ruffles at your chest to serve as a camouflage. Problems solved!

褶皱适用于任何场合。穿着褶皱服饰的规则和动物图案一样——一次一种。不要穿一件褶皱衬衫的时候再穿一条褶皱花边裙，拿一个褶皱花边包或者穿一双这种鞋子。记住越少效果越好。有致的褶皱可以使你在想要或者是需要的任何地方产生存在感。臀部太小？那么尝试一下小褶皱。但是要注意：像很多长裙那样从中间穿过的褶皱会隐藏你的纤腰，让你看起来显得矮胖。平胸？那么穿上胸部带有褶皱的衣服吧，会是一种很好的掩饰方法。问题解决了！

For the curvy, ruffles can be a little bit tricky, as they accentuate and enlarge wherever they adorn. When wearing ruffles make sure you tone down with a contrasting clean, slim piece to ensure you dont look like a tiered wedding cake. Pop a pair of skinny jeans with a ruffled blouse to balance the ensemble. You can also throw a long cardigan over ruffled dress to slim down the look. A romantic ruffled blouse paired with a pencil skirt or tailored pants can also work.

而说到曲线，褶皱就有一点棘手，因为它们都是突出和扩大它们要装饰的地方。穿带褶皱的衣服要确保搭配一件简洁、修身的衣服来协调，不要看起来像是一个包装好的蛋糕。用紧身牛仔裤配褶皱衬衫来平衡整体效果。你也可以将长毛衣配上褶皱裙，这样显得苗条。一件浪漫的褶皱衬衫配上一条铅笔裙或者是修身裤效果也不错。

Ruffles Accessories

褶皱饰品

Aware that most of woman has an obsession for shoes and bags and a passion for ruffles some designers decided to put them together. And the result was on the foot and hand of many models on the catwalk this spring. The heel master, Christian Louboutin designed a shoe for 3.1 Philip Lim adorned with a vertical cascade of ruffles. Emma Cook ruffled everything from shoulder to sole and so did Vivienne Westwood. Miu Miu brings the ruffle back down to earth in very pretty ballerina flats.

意识到大多数女士们对鞋子、包包的着迷，但同时又对褶皱饰物有着极大的热情，一些设计师们决定要将它们搭配在一起。在今年春季伸展台上一些模特的脚上和手上我们就看见了成果。高跟鞋设计大师克里斯提•鲁布托为菲利林3.1设计了直线瀑布褶皱花边鞋。艾玛•库克所有时装从肩膀到脚趾每一处都饰有褶皱花边，薇薇恩•韦斯特伍德也是如此。缪缪用异常美丽的芭蕾舞平底鞋将褶皱又带回世界。

For those who have a thing for handbags, there are a few options. Valentino Allure ruffled bag, Prada Ruffled Clutch, Yves Saint-Laurent, Christian Dior.

对那些对包包有情有独钟的人来说也有一些选择。华伦天奴褶皱包、普拉达褶皱手提包、还有伊夫圣罗兰以及克里斯汀•迪奥。

But remember – do not match shoes and bag or you will be overruffled.

但是记着——不要同时穿褶皱鞋子或者包包，否则你就会过度“褶皱”。

Ruffles – the Origin

褶皱起源

According to some History of Fashion books, ruffles first appeared during the Elizabethan Period (sixteenth century) in England. Both men and women wore ruffled collars to show status, rather as men today wear ties. It was an example of the hierarchical element in dress.

根据一些关于时尚的历史书籍，褶皱最初出现在英国的伊丽莎白时代（16世纪）。男人和女人都穿褶皱领口的衣服来表示身份，就像今天的男人都打领带一样。这是衣着等级的一个例子。

The first ruffles comeback happened in spring 1968 – there were ruffles everywhere in the US, worn with sweeping midi-skirts, coats and dark tights during the winter or paler tights for late spring. Suits for spring were fewer than usual, the prevailing costume being a coat-with-skirt-with-ruffled-blouse; the blouse was long-sleeved and white, in cotton or organdy. Since then ruffles have been around for quite a long time. Some people say that the second comeback started with Yves Saint-Laurent, in 2006. Some believe that they have never gone completely out. The difference is that now they are absolutely in and, as a classic, will probably be like this for ages. After all, ruffles have survived revolutions and wars. As a survivor they are ready to go through an economic crisis, arent they?

褶皱时尚的第一次回归是在1968年春季——美国到处都能看见褶皱的踪迹，在冬季穿着及地的中长裙、上衣以及黑色紧身裤，或者在晚春时穿浅色紧身裤。春季的衣服比平常的要少，最流行的就是上衣加裙子加上带皱褶花边的裤子；衬衫是白色长袖，棉布或者奥甘迪（一种细薄的棉织品）。从那时起褶皱花边就流行了很久。有人说褶皱的第二次回归是在2006年由伊夫•圣•洛朗发起的。有些人则认为褶皱从未完全退出过时尚舞台。区别在于现在褶皱又作为一种经典真正流行，而且会持续很久。毕竟，褶皱在革命和战争中幸存下来。作为一个幸存者，它们已经做好了准备度过经济危机，不是吗？

Notes

1. tailored ruffles

在文中指的是“ruffles specially made by a tailor to a particular size”，也就是“由某位裁缝剪裁特定尺寸的褶皱”。

2. on the edge of

意为“濒于、几乎、在边缘”。

例句：The soldiers are encamping on the edge of the forest.

士兵们在森林边扎营。

3. The color palette

在文中指的是“the colours used (in the show or whatever)”，即“这些服装展上的色彩”。

4. trenches

在文中是指“trench coat”，也就是我们通常所说的风衣。

5. No floral, no girlie, no walk in the park.

这句话的意思相当于“they're not just decorative, not just to look pretty, not just for strolling around”，引申到后面的句子就是“but they're to wear for serious evening parties（为一些隆重的晚宴而穿）”，即“这些时装不仅仅用来装饰，不仅仅用来欣赏，不仅仅用于花园漫步”。

6. in shades of

在这里该词组和“different kinds of”意思相近，即“多种类型、种类”。

7. not-so-ready-to-wear

“ready-to-wear”指的是“现成的，做好的；成衣”。“not-so-ready-to-wear”借用了“ready-to-wear”的时尚含义，是一个双关语。在文中是指这些衣服确实很好看，独家设计，但是你必须在别人的帮助下（如拉链、纽扣）才能穿上。

8. emigrate to

意为“移民他国、迁居”，在文中引申为“转移、更换为”。

例句：Acting on your recommend ation，I have decided to emigrate to Australia.

依据你的建议，我已经定移民澳大利亚。

9. slim down

意为“消瘦、使身材苗条；下降、消减”。