海岱之间,觅信美青州

2023-11-12 02:49云兮
走向世界 2023年40期
关键词:古街青州古城

云兮

《尚书·禹贡》云:“海岱惟青州。”“海”指渤海,“岱”为泰山,泰山和大海间这片广袤的土地就是青州。当然,如今的青州与古书上记载的青州,并不能画等号。

翻开青州的历史长卷,厚重的历史感与文化气息氤氲而来:7000余年的发展史,5000多年的文明史,超2200年的建城史,12年的国都辉煌;上承后李文化、北辛文化、大汶口文化,下接龙山文化、岳石文化;先后建有广县城、广固城、南阳城、东阳城、东关圩子城、旗城6座古城池;出过6位状元、180多名进士;范仲淹、欧阳修、富弼在此做过知州,李清照与赵明诚在这里生活多年,百余位名人留下众多园林府邸与诗文巨著……悠久的历史,丰富的遗存,深厚的文化底蕴,众多的名胜古迹,耐人寻味的社会风情和脍炙人口的传奇故事,见证了青州曾经的辉煌,也让“国家历史文化名城”的称号实至名归。

北宋著名文学家苏辙曾在诗中赞美青州“面山负海古诸侯,信美东方第一州”。走进这座城,仿佛游走在千年的时光隧道中,既是一场奇妙的历史之旅,也是一次城市新旧记忆的碰撞之旅。

寻访青州的历史印记,捕捉曾经的文明足迹,青州博物馆非常值得一去。青州博物馆是首批国家一级博物馆中唯一的县级综合性博物馆,馆藏文物5万余件,其中国家珍贵文物3000多件。东汉“宜子孙”玉璧、龙兴寺遗址窖藏出土佛教造像、明万历二十六年赵秉忠殿试状元卷……这里的一玉一石、一佛一菩、一卷一画,无不是千古文明的见证者。今年5月,位于南阳湖畔的青州博物馆新馆正式开放,走进其中,令人惊艳的不只是每一件文物和藏品,而是通过对它们的梳理与品读,能更多地领悟到背后深藏的悠久历史和中华灿烂文明的魅力。

回眸往昔繁华地,且看今世美好城。青州古城,一个历史与现实交融出独特韵味的所在。

古城内老街旧巷多而杂,柳行街、参府街、青龙街、夏钦园街等,其命名或以行市、或以方位、或以地貌特征、或以人文风情,千差万别,各具特色与情趣。目前,保存最为完好的当属东关昭德街至东北街、偶园街,再到北门大街、北关大街这一段,被称为“青州十里古街”,昭德街还被评为“中国十大历史古街”。

众多的园林亭阁散落在青州古城内,每一个古园林、每一处亭阁都留下无数文人墨客的诗句佳篇。偶园、偕园、范公亭,漫步其间,仿若与无数骚人逸客擦肩,诗词吟唱萦绕于耳边。

古城吸引人的不止是懷古抒情,还有古与今、旧与新在眼前交织放射出的光芒。只要一个转身,就能从厚重的历史中走进人间市井的烟火间:流光溢彩的灯火,错落有致的古建筑,熙熙攘攘的人群,无不让人感到美好。更有那大槐树煎包或马蹄烧饼特有的面香,勾起味蕾的跳动;热乎乎的羊汤或鸡汤米线的鲜香迎风扑鼻,诱得人饥肠辘辘;还有百年老字号隆盛糕点,看一眼就让人放不下,直到蜜三刀从唇齿间一直甜到心里……千年古城,就这样活了起来。

编辑/魏伟

Exploring Beautiful Qingzhou amid Sea and Mountains

Boasting a development history of over 7,000 years, a civilization history of over 5,000 years, a city founding history of over 2,200 years, and 12 years of glory as the capital of a state; inheriting the Houli culture, the Beixin culture and the Dawenkou culture, carrying forward the Longshan culture and the Yueshi culture; fostering six number one scholars and over 180 Jinshi (scholars passing imperial examinations); having Fan Zhongyan, Ouyang Xiu and Fu Bi holding the post of governor, Li Qingzhao and Zhao Mingcheng living here for many years, over 100 celebrities leaving numerous garden mansions and masterpieces in poetry and prose… Long history, rich historical remains, profound cultural deposits, and numerous scenic spots and historical sites have witnessed Qingzhou’s past glory, and made it deserve the title of “National Historical and Cultural City”.

As a national first-class museum, the Qingzhou Museum has a collection of over 50,000 cultural relics, including over 3,000 national valuable cultural relics. In May of this year, the new Qingzhou Museum by the Nanyang Lake was officially opened to the public.

The Qingzhou Ancient City has a wide variety of old streets and alleys, which are named after fairs, orientations, terrain features or cultural customs, differing in a thousand ways but each having its own character and charm. Besides, there are numerous gardens and pavilions scattered throughout the ancient city. All gardens and pavilions have the traces of Qingzhou’s celebrities of past dynasties and numerous excellent poems and essays left by ancient men of letters. These gardens and pavilions include Ouyuan Garden, Xieyuan Garden and Fangong Pavilion. Walking down the flagstone streets, strolling around gardens and pavilions, you may feel like brushing past numerous men of letters, with the singing of poems lingering in your ears.

The attraction of the ancient city lies in not only the meditation on the past and the expression of emotions, but also the radiance from the interlacing of ancient and modern elements. Whichever way you turn, you may walk from the profound history into the hustle and bustle of a marketplace.

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