临安花千谷：山水深处有茶家

陶悦清

花千谷，是一处民宿，在太湖水系源头临安太湖源镇。

从地图上看，太湖源镇面貌恰似一片绿叶。妙的是，那里的天目山麓恰好遍布野茶，日夜被洁净的山风、雾气所滋润。

獨得天然佳境的山里人，想到了要将农家乐作为自己的营生，花千谷，就这样自在生长出了山野茶庄园的清新模样。

“大姚”来了

2007年，姚明、叶莉夫妇慕名来到太湖源拍摄婚纱照。小镇一时沸腾，登上了不少媒体的版面。彼时，李明强正在太湖源太子庙村的路边为自己的特产店打地基。

“六辆房车从路边开过，姚明就坐在里面。”说起多年前与“大姚”近距离的一次接触，他告诉笔者：至今难忘。

名人带来的明星效应，为太湖源镇迅速拓展了知名度，加上当地本就有太湖源景区、神龙川、东天目山等景点资源，很快引来游人如织。

李明强原本计划和妻子单宗霞在路边店面里出售些本地的临安“三宝”：笋干、茶叶、山核桃，做个小营生足矣。但夫妻俩渐渐感到，外来游客多了，除了临走时带些土特产离开，累了，也想在这山间歇歇脚。“不如转型做农家乐吧。”李明强冒出了这个念头。

几乎同时，当地人也在那时开始悄然兴办农家乐。小日子得益于一方山水而红火热闹。

李明强夫妻为自己经营的农家乐取名“花千谷”，十分贴切——位置在峡谷一侧的坡地上，坡地下流淌着一条常年不息、清澈见底的小溪；峡谷的另一侧是青山连绵、山花烂漫，偶有野茶树散布。

有山有水，有茶，有人家。居住在这样的环境中，主人、客人都满意。

台湾女设计师的二度改造

如今的花千谷，已由最初的农家乐转型为民宿。在当地众多的农家乐中，它宛若一朵秀丽小花，灿烂明媚。

而这，又要从一次偶然说起。

2014年，一位来自台湾的女客人入住花千谷。李明强与单宗霞的热情、淳朴，让外乡人一下子找到了回家的舒适与自然。这位女客人是设计师，她以职业的敏感，看到了这对夫妻经营民宿的可能性。

当时的花千谷是简单的农家乐。女设计师告诉李明强夫妻，既然做得这么辛苦，不如改造成民宿，多些设计感，提高收入，“我愿意免费帮忙”。

于是，在当地农家乐遍地开花的时候，李明强率先吃起了民宿的“螃蟹”。

在设计师的提议下，改造花千谷的材料大多就地取材，以此来原汁原味地体现当地的山乡风味。其时正好碰上村里“三改一拆”，李明强拉回一车车的废弃家用。农居老木头成了民宿的房梁与天花板；客房的衣橱是由农家的碗橱改造而来；卫生间的洗手池更具创意，是由原先喂猪的石槽改造而来……

硬件有了，夫妻俩也懂得“人情味”的重要性。民宿的核心魅力来自于民宿主人的情调。走进民宿，若是让客人产生“同在一个屋檐下生活”的归属感，便是成功。于是，花千谷的两位“谷主”有了这样的生活设计：春天炒茶挖笋，夏天避暑戏水，秋天摘果酿酒，冬天围炉赏雪。单宗霞对笔者说：“你可以静坐在溪边垂钓，也可以挽起裤脚蹚水进河里捉鱼，总之，让人能够很容易融入太湖源的生活里。”

山居茶庄园

茶，是笔者在花千谷遇见的“佳人”。

天目青顶（又称天目云雾茶），产于东天目山的太子庙、龙须庵、溪里、小岭坑、朱家村及森罗坪一带。天目山山高林密，终年云雾笼罩，茶树多分布在自然良好的山坞中，生长环境得天独厚，所产之茶在1200年前的唐代已很有名，经久不废，是色、香、味俱全的茶中佳品。

茶与民宿的融合，让花千谷渐渐有了山居茶庄园的模样——

以茶会友。一楼公共区域设置有茶座，客来奉茶。也有讲究的爱茶人自带好茶，在这里毫不吝啬地与来自天南海北的旅人一同分享。

以茶入菜。常常下厨的李明强夫妻琢磨了一桌茶宴：茶水煮白切鸡、龙井虾仁、茶青炒鸡蛋、大红袍卤鸭、云雾（茶）牛肉……

以茶为礼。茶以及与茶相关联的土特产品，都被夫妻俩提上了计划日程。这些茶礼，今后都将以“花千谷茶叶”为品牌，成为入住客人的伴手礼。

2017年3月，全国20多位民宿主集聚花千谷，展开了一次围绕特色民宿的体验与讨论。他们在春天的细雨中去周边茶园采茶，回来将茶青入锅炒制，满室生香；晚上，大家围桌而坐，一同品茗，共话茶与民宿、茶与茶农人家的融合发展。

从“柴米油盐酱醋茶”的世俗烟火，到“琴棋书画诗酒花（今人或改‘茶）”的诗情快意，这种种，均随一盏茶香飘进了民宿的平凡日子里。

（除署名外，本文照片由作者提供）

An Idyllic Haven： Huaqiangu， Linan

By Tao Yueqing

Set against undulating tea plantations at the foot of the Tianmu Mountain where only the smoke betrays where the dwelling lies， the lovely town of Taihuyuan， looking like a leaf on the map， is the place chosen by Chinas most famous basketball player and his wife for wedding photography in 2007. For city dwellers getting tired of the concrete jungle， the town is an ethereal utopia where the dream of an ideal existence in harmony with nature comes true.endprint

“Six motor coaches passed by， and I knew Yao Ming and his beautiful bride were sitting in one of them，” Li Mingqiang， who runs a B&B place called ‘Huaqiangu in the town， recalled with excitement.

As a result of the celebrity effect and the towns close proximity to such famous scenic spots as Shennongchuan and Taihuyuan， tourists poured into the town for its unspoiled wilderness of great beauty and to follow the romantic footsteps of “Chinas tallest couple”， triggering a country tourism boom and a sudden proliferation of new attractions and accommodations run by the locals.

“I realized it was a now-and-never chance to make money，” he recalled. He redecorated his house into a B&B place ready for operation.

Lis B&B place took a new look of a customized hotel in 2014， when the towns B&B industry reached its first peak. Impressed by the hospitality of the couple， a designer from Taiwan offered to redesign the house for free. “That way the house will look a lot better and bring more money，” the guest advised.

The reconstruction started right away. Li and his wife drew on local resources， transforming kitchen cabinets into guestroom wardrobes and collecting waste timber pieces for use as roof beams.

After completion of the hardware upgrading， the couple racked their brain to improve services. “We try our best to provide the best possible services so that guests leave here without regret，” Lis wife Shan Zongxia told us. At the new Huaqiangu， everything is designed to ensure an authentic rural experience for guests.

“People come to my place for our ‘seasonal enjoyment - gathering bamboo shoots and tealeaves in the spring， picking fruits in autumn and taking in the snow view in winter.”

Huaqiangu is an ideal place to have a taste of the famous Mist Tea （also branded as ‘Tianmu Yunding） grown in the depths of the eastern side of the Tianmu Mountain.

In the tea room on the first floor of Huaqiangu， tea lovers get together to sample the thousand-year-long tea culture of Tianmu Mountain and try the ‘tea banquet innovated by the couple.

Earlier this year， more than 20 B&B owners gathered at Huaqiangu for a meeting to brainstorm on country tourism innovation. For the B&B trailblazers and their followers， the journey to the future will be a bitter-sweet experience that promises more surprises than disappointments.endprint