在马赛老港眺望

文、图张瑞田 Zhang Ruitian译曹宇光Cao Yuguang

在马赛老港眺望

Gaze at Old Port of Marseille

文、图张瑞田 Zhang Ruitian译曹宇光Cao Yuguang

马赛一景Some Scene in Marseille

很像一个童话，2000多年前，希腊人发现、开拓了位于地中海沿岸的拉希东海港。依托这个海港，一座城市渐次展开，后来成为法国第二大城市马赛。

我到马赛时，当年的拉希东港——成为欧洲的第二大海港——马赛港，已经退出法国的远洋运输，成为停泊游艇的旧港。毕竟有迷人的故事，我到法国，竟然别无他顾，只在马赛的大街小巷中行走，来得多便是马赛的旧港。

我入住的酒店古朴、幽静，没有熙来攘往的游人，悄然出入，难得的闲适。酒店附近有公交车通往马赛老港，近似道具模样的公交车在轨道上行驶，车上端两条连接线与并行的电线相交，显然，这是电力轨道公交车，是环保的交通工具。在马赛生活一周以后，熟悉了这趟公交车，有时，一个人上车，经行5站，就到马赛老港了。

我愿意在黄昏时分到马赛老港。太阳忙碌了一天，疲倦袭来，自然收敛了锋芒，因此，我们看到的太阳光辉不再炽烈，色泽也变得温和，与港口附近的建筑、游艇、海鸥，交织成优美的画面。我从公交车站走向老港。两侧是四层高的老房子，音乐家旁若无人地演奏，匆匆的行人，从老港走来，又向老港走去。我走出这条路，视线开阔了，的确是声名远播的码头，宽敞且笔直的石板路，围着码头，形成一个U字。我站在U字的下端，可以看到无尽的海洋，我知道，这是马赛老港的出口，无数艘的轮船，无数次的远航，是从这里出发，前往世界各地。无数艘的轮船，无数次的远航，让马赛有了生命活力，让法国神清气爽。向左边看去，能看到一座山，山上是教堂，高耸入云的穹顶，也是马赛的最高点。在那里，马赛一览无余。我曾去教堂参观，站在教堂旁，马赛港的结构清楚无比，艘艘游艇，片片风帆，尽收眼底。其实，马赛老港并不老，只是相比较新近建成的新港，它有了沧桑的身世。第二次世界大战以后，老港在废墟上重建。马赛制造业兴旺，商业繁荣，经济发展强劲，需要一个与世界相连的港口。它将向世界输出普罗旺斯的商品，它也将把世界各地的商品运回马赛，一来一往，就是一个国家，一座城市的动力与活力。

马赛的气质让我沉迷。马赛一点也不奢华，它沉默不语，很像一位有教养的贵族，常常以冷静、温和的眼光面对。只是冷静、温和的背后，藏着坚硬的自信。港口，往往是一座城市的经济中心，会有很多重要的机构在这里驻足，因此，也会有许多精彩的建筑拔地而起。与山上的教堂相对，是一幢灰色的四方形建筑，据说，是市政厅，有两百多年的历史。我随便看了一眼，有许多话想说，可又不愿意说。四方形建筑的后面，是一栋略高的建筑，门口有一片平地，汽车停泊，井然有序。有人从大楼里出入，衣着考究，表情平和，有的钻进汽车，有的到码头散步，有的登上游艇，驶向大海。朋友告诉我，这是马赛最好的酒店，一个标间售价200欧元。我说不贵，朋友说，最贵的酒店在中国。的确，马赛老港有许多家饭店，常在这里吃饭，有法国波尔多考究的红酒，有地中海的海鲜，四个人，一餐下来，一百二十欧元。最贵的酒店在中国，最贵的餐饮何尝不在中国。我们笑起来，都知道为什么笑起来。

在马赛住了半个月，闲了就到马赛老港。每每有一艘游艇驶向大海，我会盯着那艘游艇，直到游艇在海面上消失。这时我会想，游艇是不是去古堡了，与马赛老港有一箭之遥的古堡，建在一座孤岛上。据说，这是过去的监牢。大仲马把古堡中发生的故事写进了长篇小说《基督山伯爵》，至今，到马赛旅行的人，依然认可这个传说。每天，有很多人乘船登岛，在古堡中感受《基督山伯爵》的曲折故事和人物形象戏剧化的命运。我没有脱俗，到马赛的第四天，登上了孤岛，也在孤岛上的古堡里，迎合着一段缥缈的传说。古堡如迷宫，从一条狭窄的通道，攀上古堡的顶端。向下俯瞰，有一个20平方米凹地，四周是横着铁栏的小窗。小窗幽暗，看不清窗内的究竟，朋友多次来过，他抬手指向小窗，说，那里是监牢。对监牢很恐惧，我站在那里，看着许多游人去向小窗内探视。我没有兴趣，一处让自由窒息的地方，让生命萎缩的环境，还是离远一点为好。我说，去看海吧。

地中海，真的令人心旷神怡。我是在马赛老港捧起地中海的海水的。水如翡翠，从手指缝流下，似乎目光也有了绿色。日光下的地中海，是真正的蔚蓝色，通透、豁达。乘游艇去古堡，犹如在蓝色地毯铺就的道路上前行，前方是狭长的孤岛，孤岛上是起伏的古堡，缓慢的速度，悠长的行进，是真正的普罗旺斯的浪漫。船在孤岛简易的码头旁停泊，从码头上看海，可以看到幽深的尽处，就连无拘无束的鱼，也看得一清二楚。这是怎样的海，这是怎样的清澈，于孤岛上遐想，如梦如幻。

在马赛老港徜徉，总要问自己身在其中的感觉，便想起两个词：自然、古典。前一个词在眼前，后一个词在心中。马赛是自然美与古典美的结合。马赛背山面海，汹涌的海流与野蛮的潮汐不在这里横行。因此，这里的风景具有高贵的美感。也是地中海一个特殊的段落。从马赛港的源头，我们知道什么是厚重。当马赛新港开始承担一座城市的经济重任，这个老港有了回忆的资本，它像退伍还家的军人，在记忆里怀想往日的辉煌。在出海口附近的圣约翰城堡，还有圣尼古拉城堡，是记忆的资格。建于路易十四执政期间的古堡，如守候港口的将军，日日伫立，天天遥望，它要把老港的故事代代相传。

2000 years ago, the ancient Greek discovered and explored the Lacydon seaport along the Mediterranean, which was quite like a fairy tale. On the basis of this seaport, a city gradually grew up and finally became the second biggest city in France—Marseille.

When I came to Marseille, the Lacydon port, also known as Marseille port and the second biggest seaport in Europe, was no longer for ocean transportation and became an old port for yacht anchoring. Fascinated with old stories, I came to France only for Marseille. Walking randomly in various streets and lanes in this city, my resort was just this old port.

As my hotel was located in a secluded place with ancient simplicity, there were no crowds of tourists and thus I could enjoy the rare leisure in getting in and out casually. There was a routine bus heading for the old port. The vehicle looked quite like props running on track and it had two connections with a parallel pair of electric wires above. Obviously, it was a tram, an environment-friendly means of transportation. After living for a week in Marseille, I got totally familiar with this tram line. Sometimes, I would get on this tram alone, and after five stops, arrived at the old port.

马赛一景Some Scene in Marseille

I prefer to visit the old port at dusk when the sun, after a day’s labor, gets tired and then weakens its brilliance. Consequently, we could see that its radiance is no longer passionate and its luster becomes mild, which constitutes a pretty scene together with the nearby architecture, yachts and seagulls. On my way from the bus stop to the old port, four-storeyed old buildings stood on both sides, some musicians played their musical instruments in their favorite way and passengers hurried from and towards the old port. When I reached the end of this way, I found my vision much broader. It was indeed a reputable port as the spacious and straight stone path form a letter of “U” around the port. Standing at the bottom of this “U”, I could see the boundless ocean. I know that it was the exit of this old port, from where numerous vessels on countless far voyages set off here to head for varied places all over the world. It was all those vessels taking on countless far voyages that endowed Marseille with vitality and refreshed the whole France. On its left, I could find a hill, and on its top there stood a chapel whose acme high above cloud was the highest point of Marseille. There one could have an overview of the entire city. I once visited the chapel and standing by the chapel I observed every detail of the structure of Marseille port, including every sail on every yacht. As a matter of fact, the old port of Marseille is not old enough, in contrast with the new one that was lately completed. In the wake of the World War II, a reconstruction took place on the original site. Blessed with flourishing manufacture industry, prosperous trade and powerful economic development, Marseille demanded a port to connect the world. While transporting the merchandise from Provence to the world, it carried goods from all over the world back to Marseille. Such a commute finally becomes the motivation and vitality of a city and even a country.

The temperament in Marseille fascinated me completely. Without luxury and often in silence, it looks like a well-educated noble person who faces everything in cool and mild eyesight. However, a firm self-confidence is hidden behind such a cool and mild manner. As the port is always the economic center of a city, many key institutes are established in the neighborhood and thus much excellent architecture is erected as well. Opposite to the chapel on the mountain stands an oblong architecture in grey color. Rumor has it that it is a city hall with a history of more than two centuries. With a glimpse of it, I had a lot to say, but I preferred to keep silent. A higher building was behind it and at its gate there was a flat ground for orderly parking. Some people of fine costume and peaceful expressions entered and exited this building, some got into their cars, some walked around the port and some cruised to sea in yacht. My friend told me that it was the best hotel in Marseille with a fixed price of 200 euros per night for a standard room. I uttered “not expensive at all” and my friend replied immediately that the most expensive hotel was in China. It was quite true. I often had meals in many restaurants nearby the old port of Marseille where I could enjoy the exquisite wine from Bordeaux and seafood from the Mediterranean. A meal for four persons only cost 120 euros. The most expensive hotel is in China, and then the most expensive restaurant must be there as well. My friend and I laughed and we both had a tacit agreement as to why.

Within my half month in Marseille, I would visit the old port as soon as I had my spare time. I would gaze at every yacht heading for the ocean until it totally disappeared. Then I would ask myself whether it had gone to the ancient castle. Within an arrow’s distance, this ancient castle was built on an isolated island. It was said that it used to be a prison where Alexandre Dumas (Father) compiled the stories into his long novel The Count of Monte Cristo. So far, all the tourists to Marseille still take this legend for granted. Every day, many people would take a boat to get on the island to feel about the complicated plot and dramatic destiny in this novel. Of course I was no exception either, and on my fourth day in Marseille, I got on the isolated island to cater for this remote legend in the ancient castle. The castle resembled a labyrinth and through a narrow passage, I climbed onto the top and saw a hollow of 20 square meters below that wassurrounded by small windows of iron bars. In the dim light from the windows, nobody could see what was inside. My friend, who had been there many times, told me that was prison, and many tourists tried to take a look through the small window. In my opinion, prison is a place to suffocate freedom and make life wither, so I held a fear rather than interest and preferred to get away from it. Then I advise to enjoy the sea.

马赛一景Some Scene in Marseille

马赛一景Some Scene in Marseille

The Mediterranean really made me feel pleasant and comfortable, and it was at the old port of Marseille that I scooped up water of Mediterranean with my hands. Like emerald, the stream flowed from the slim crack between my fingers and my eyesight seemed to be green as well. The Mediterranean in the sunlight looked indeed azure, penetrating and clear. When taking a yacht to the ancient castle, I felt as if traveling on a blue carpet. With the undulating castle on the narrow isolated island ahead, the slow speed and long marching made me feel a genuine romance in Provence. My yacht stopped at simple anchor of the isolated island and I could see clearly those carefree in the front at the deep end of water from the port. What a clear and fascinating view! On this isolated island, I indulged myself in a dreamlike imagination.

Strolling nearby the old port of Marseille, I couldn’t help asking about my feelings, and two words occurred to my mind: natural and classical. The former was in vision and the latter was at heart. Marseille is a combination of natural beauty and classic beauty. With mountains behind and sea in the front, Marseille never finds turbulent waves or savage torrents. Therefore, the scenery here is of noble aesthetics and becomes a special part of the Mediterranean. From the source of Marseille port, we came to understand the historical deposit and as soon as the new port took up the economic burden of this city, the old port had its own memory to boast of. Like a retired soldier back home, it often recalls its glory in the past memory. The St. John Castle and the St. Nicolas Castle stand as the witnesses to the memory. Those ancient castles built in the reign of Louis XIV, like generals safeguarding the port, stand in a distance day by day, in order to tell the story of the old port from generation to generation.

2月24日至4月2日，中国美术馆“典藏活化”系列展：永恒的温度——中国美术馆藏路德维希夫妇捐赠国际艺术作品选展在京举办。图为伊万·鲁本尼科夫的油画《女歌唱家》From February 24 till April 2, National Art Museum of China “Classical and Vivid Collection” Series Exhibition: Art Class of Ludwig—Exhibition of Selected Works Donated by Mr. & Mrs. Ludwig and Collected in National Art Museum of China was Held in Beijing. Above is an oil painting titled “A Female Singer” by Ivan Lubennikow