看一看贵阳阳明祠

孙俊

10月，我去贵州。广告词说贵州“大美”，确实，那里山水地理独绝、民族风情烂漫，历史人文也有积淀。

山中有城、城中有山，到贵阳，纪念中国明代大儒王阳明的专祠是必须游览的——以前读书，一直不忘梁启超对王阳明的评价：“他在近代学术界中，极其伟大，军事上政治上，亦有很大的勋业”，“他的学术像打药针一般令人兴奋，所以能……吐很大光芒”，说得形象，记忆深刻，况且王阳明是浙籍人士。

贵阳有阳明祠，是因为王阳明曾在今天的修文县做过龙场驿丞。三年有余的时间里，他一度在贵阳文明书院讲学，影响深远，被后人推崇为贵州第一文化名人。中华好礼，礼有五经，莫重于祭。自南宋正式订立祠堂之制（朱熹《家礼》）以后，各地喜欢建祠，此风尤以明清时期为烈。清嘉庆十九年（1814），贵阳乡士为礼敬先贤，也为鼓吹并显示教化文治，选城东扶风山立阳明祠。

扶风山，旧时号称“黔垣第一峰”，其实山的形势未必伟岸或纤秀。我去时，天忽雨忽阴，山间恍惚有雾气，尽管周边楼市也多，倒是迷蒙幽静。

扶风一山，不独有阳明祠，还有尹道真祠和扶风寺。两祠一寺，三组相对独立的建筑组成了文化型的景胜之区。

拾阶而登，我感觉这整座山更像一处风景园林。过去两祠一寺多有毁废，现在主建筑已根据旧规制修缮，其他亭台、叠石及诸小品，大都按照山势高下有更多新布置；而且看得出，祠、寺之间有过渡衔接，张弛开闭地，强调了艺术意蕴；另外也注意到，这里的乔木渲染很有点意思，老柯横枝的像柏树、银杏、桂树之类和常年翠绿的竹子，营造起气氛，传达出境界，点醒了纪念或者凭吊的象征意义。这也是中国园林艺术中非常独到的审美之处。

不过再怎么说，扶风山的崇祀性主题毕竟孱弱下去。供人崇拜、举行仪典的祠、寺本是主景，园林应当烘托呈现端庄肃穆、高尚崇敬，兼具静谧悠远的氛围。可时代终究在发展，现代生活的活泼的流动，逐渐水洗去一代代人的祭祀观念，于是，有意无意间这礼制建筑沦为园林一景，大约也情有可原。

阳明祠有两进建筑：前殿也叫桂花厅，陈列着王阳明生平展；大殿即享堂，陈列着王阳明学术展。王阳明的学术成就主要集中在心学上，值得钦佩的是，他将心学哲学化，使中国古代真正产生了哲学。其思想的博大昌达，影响了明清、近现代乃至当今，后人将儒学创始者孔丘、儒学集大成者孟轲、理学集大成者朱熹、心学集大成者王守仁并称为“孔孟朱王”。

享堂是祠的中心。进得进去，中央置王阳明汉白玉坐像，两侧悬其手书“壮思风飞冲情云上；和光春霭爽气秋高”木刻联对，东西内墙分别嵌其《训士四条》和《论语四条》的木刻板片。

有两通石碑或者有一看的价值，可惜非原物：一为王阳明朝服大像；朝服也可用作祭服，刻于此以显示地位。一为明隆庆时穆宗追赠王守仁为新建侯、谥文成的诰命；诰命是封赠之旨，刻于此以显示荣耀。

享堂外有游廊相连。廊壁嵌刻石数十方，内容包括“书法通神，足为临池之模范”（朱彝尊语）的王阳明《矫亭记》和家书文稿墨迹，还有清代学者钱大昕、袁枚、翁方纲、阮元、何绍基、郑珍、莫友芝等的题咏诗章及相关学术考辨文章。有人说，这是贵阳和阳明祠的历史菁华，我以为不太为过。据介绍，这些刻石在五十年前全部被毁，过了二十年多，客居姑苏的黔籍书画家谢孝思先生依据拓片，雇人一一复制，完成旧迹重新。浙江博物馆黄良起先生说起他了解此事，对阳明祠的复制石刻，谢先生希望更上层楼，故曾询问黄先生的父亲、吴中刻石名家黄怀觉老先生愿否援手，但终究因故罢去。我想起当其时，黄氏父子受沙孟海先生邀，正在重刻武林岳庙碑廊，现在如果两地相较，或可称为小掌故。

天落淅沥小雨的缘故，游人很少，我得以徘徊，发现这些井然划一、历时四年完成的刻石，原本系由金石学家精选墨本、书法家双钩上石、刻家镌石的，而现在不少名胜的碑碣、匾联的款署，往往突出撰、书二者，忘却工艺作匠，实在要学学这里的谦逊恭敬的气度。

阳明祠内还有一碑，也想对它道一道。碑，刻日本人三岛毅七绝一首，考诗题《龙冈观月》，实在作于修文，与贵阳无涉。据说，此碑由当年贵阳公立师范学堂的日本教习竖立，今人沿用，大约为凸显所谓王阳明的海外影响力。又考三岛毅行实，为文学博士，曾做过东宫（太子）侍讲，日俄战争一结束，即代表皇室与日本驻华武官等人“考察”中国各地，到过贵州，心术真可商榷。

凉意徐徐扑面。我问工作人员，历史上阳明祠是地方官府设立并设祭的，如今香火行为又怎样延续。答曰：现在有“清明茶祭王阳明先生”活动，且与“清明茶祭尹道真先生”一并举行。尹道真名珍，东汉人，他曾走出贵州大山叩问中原文化，之后又回到这化外蛮荒之地传播，功莫大焉。“北学游中国；南天破大荒”（曾燠撰），“德兼教养”（洪亮吉题），后人因建尹道真祠，向他致敬。同祭尹、王，当然无不可，他俩对贵州文化发展都有贡献，但我另想，以中华文化发展而论，却不然。主流的儒学，自孔、孟之后，朱熹、王阳明是两个高峰般的人物。查《明史·本传》，万历中，神宗允准王阳明从祀文庙，为终明之世四人之一。曲阜大成殿里的配享，四圣之下有十二哲，朱熹在焉；东西两庑里的从祀，先贤先儒172人，王阳明在焉。先生委屈我遗憾。

出了阳明祠，去尹道真祠。祠为一座普通的四合院，只有享堂，早先里面奉神主牌位。边上的厢楼上挂着当代画家所绘的二十四位贵州文化名人的画像和生平简介，我把它比拟作贵州先贤祠，具有纯粹而根深蒂固的乡土情怀和民族特性，反映了中华文化的主流思想。

雨渐渐停歇，我登临松巅阁依窗泡茶。松巅阁原为昙云精舍，是扶风寺的旧构。扶风寺以前有悲怀于万里风涛的观音殿和尚勇如凛凛山风的关圣殿，释、道居然在此相容；后来重修，不再供神偶，而是表达对文字的膜拜，修建了惜字院等，惜字院覆着字冢，有人为之作下些规矩文章。这是我万万没想到的尊奉文明基业的行为，须知，一切的文化科技都从文字始，可惜现在都废去。

窗外有山鸟啾啾，我循声望去，是甲秀楼的方向。甲秀楼拾取“科甲挺秀”之意，想必有承唐代长安慈恩寺登楼题名的遗韵。又一处文化风流的标志！

（本文照片由沈安娜提供）

I visited Guizhou last October and found the province in the southwestern corner of China just gorgeous and cultured， just as trumped in television commercials by the provinces tourism authorities.

Guiyang， the capital seat of the province， is a city of mountains. One of the musts for culture-conscious tourists is Wang Yangming Memorial Temple. Wang Yangming （1472-1529） was one of the most important Chinese Neo-Confucian thinkers. A native of Zhejiang， he was a philosopher， government official， educationist， calligrapher and general during the Ming Dynasty （1368-1644）. I had known of him as a great scholar in my school years.

Guiyang hosts the temple largely because Wang Yangming served for more than three years as a governor in Longchang， which is present-day Xiuwen County. During his exile there， he gave lectures at a local academy of classics studies in Guiyang. The temple was erected in 1814 at Fufeng Hill in the east of the city. In the past， the hill was lauded as Number One Peak there. The hill did not look grand or gracious to me. The day I was there， it drizzled and the city was shrouded in mist. Though the hill was encircled by brand new housing development projects， it was relatively serene， which appealed to me.

As a matter of fact， Fufeng Hill is home to three temples. In addition to Wang Yangming Memorial Temple， there are Yin Daozhen Temple and Fufeng Temple. The three buildings form a complex of culture. In my eye， the hill looked more like a tourism attraction now. The temples are something restored with some new afterthought to make them a whole. Artistically， the temples and the towering trees looked amazing and cultured. However， the commemorative and ritual role which Fufeng Hill emphasized in the past is now relatively weakened. The temples are where people come to commemorate， to carry on， to remember， to look both way at the past and toward the future， to show respect and admiration and to pay homage. Making them scenic somewhat plays down their existence and significance.

Wang Yangming Memorial Temple consists of two major halls punctuated by a courtyard in between. The front hall is called Sweet Osmanthus Hall where his life is highlighted. The Great Hall is where a white jade statue of Wang sits. Wang is a great scholar who promoted the conception of mind and turned it into a philosophy. His ideology is considered the real beginning of ancient Chinese philosophy and it has impacted scholars of the Ming and the Qing and up to today. Wang Yangming is considered one of the four greatest masters of Confucianism in history along with Confucius， Mencius and Zhu Xi.

Two stone steles inside the major hall testify to the glory the pioneering scholar once enjoyed. One displays a carved portrait of Wang Yangming dressed in the court apparel and the other presents the text of a royal decree which posthumously gave him the titles of Marquis and Completion of Culture thirty-eight years after his death.

Outside the Major Hall are dozens of stone steles bearing inscriptions arranged along a corridor. These steles present inscriptions by great scholars of the past dynasties. It is said that these inscriptions and poems are the most valuable cultural heritages Guiyang can be proud of. I agree. The original steles were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution （1966-1976）. Artist Xie Xiaosi， a native of Guizhou who lived in Suzhou， Jiangsu， a province in eastern China， had them restored on the basis of rubbings previously made on the originals about 20 years ago. The project took four years to complete.

It was raining and I was one of the few visitors there. I wandered along the corridor， reading the inscriptions slowly. I noticed the quality of the carving. That is something commendable. These stone steles have names of the master calligraphers whose calligraphic styles were chosen， name of the calligraphers who wrote down master plans for engravers， and names of the engravers. Nowadays， some restored stone carvings often inappropriately emphasize the modern calligraphers who regard writing for such steles are an opportunity to assert their historical values.

One stele in the temple caught my eye. It bears a poem by a Japanese poet who visited Wang Yangmings sites in Xiuwen County. It is said that the stele was set up by a Japanese scholar who once taught at a normal school in Guiyang. The stele and the story behind it reflect the influence of Wang Yangming in Japan.

That day， I also visited the two other temples at Fufeng Hill and I enjoyed the visit. But that is another long story.