徜徉在历史的深处

薛　丽

I had almost never heard about the country of San Marino，one of the worlds smallest，before I saw it months ago.

Located in the centre of Italy，the territory of San Marino is only 61 square kilometres(1/9 the size of Pudong)，mostly on hills；the population of formal residents is only 30，000，with 12，000 travelling outside (1/62 that of Pudong).

But travelling in this small land is full of surprises if one knows its rich history.

In the Republic of San Marino，there is a deep-rooted veneration of the Saint Marinus，the legendary founder of the Republic.The legend narrates how the master stone-cutter left his native island of Arbe in Dalmatia and came to Mount Titano to establish a small community of Christians anxious to escape the persecutions of the Roman emperor Diocletian.

What is certain is that the area had been inhabited since prehistoric times，but the earliest definite evidence of a monastery，parish church and castle，which confirm the existence of an organized community on the mountain，only dates back to the Middle Ages.At a time when the authority of the Empire was waning and the temporal power of the Pope had not yet been established，the local people，like those of other Italian city-states，decided to give themselves some form of government.A free city was born.

Today the Republic is independent，democratic and neutral，and still remains faithful to some of its ancient traditions.

The entire centre of the capital，San Marino，is a monument.

Along the cliff edge of Mount Titano stands the three magnificent fortresses，la Guaita，la Cesta and Montale，still linked together by walls and pathways to the town below.In the sunset，all the cliffs and fortresses are bathed in golden sunshine，all walk in the heart of history.People search for corners still preserving the unique atmosphere of ancient times in San Marino most like a scene in a big Hollywood movie about the Middle Ages.

The three castles were all built to defend against intruders.As it is located on the beautiful mountain and not constructed in a heavy military style compared with similar constructions in the same period，walking around the fortresses makes people feel very comfortable and pleasant.Generally speaking，the three fortresses are the biggest attractions for travellers.Among them，la Cesta houses a Museum of Ancient Weapons.

The town itself is surrounded by three enclosures of walls，which include many gateways，towers and ramparts.Most attractive is that，inside the town，the streets and constructions，new or old，are all built in stone.Everything looks exactly as it did hundreds years ago.

There are many museums in the small town，which makes me rather surprised.Art exhibitions，local handicrafts exhibitions，modern weapons，cars and wax sculptures can all be seen.

But I preferred to stay outside with the beautiful view of Mount Titano，hillsides，pine woods and nature parks.The pleasant climate，without extreme heat in summer or cold in winter (the average temperature is 16 C degrees)，makes walking outside a good enjoyment.

There are eight townships scattered throughout the countryside around the central mountain.Castles and churches are worth a visit.

Under the surface of peace and silence，the country is a place that likes an exciting event.In summer，until late in the season，folkloristic events are staged.The most important is undoubtedly the Crossbow Competition in the town of San Marino.This is held on September 3，the National Day of the Republic.

The most exciting thing for women is shopping.San Marino is famous for its artistic ceramics，which can be seen on display in numerous shops.I heard someone bought one jar in a small shop.The picture on it is very impressive： a woman sewing under a lamp，but what she is sewing is not clothes but a piece of broken heart.I tried to find the exact same one but failed.Anyway，the ones with blue prints and San Marino views are also good.

Collectors can buy stamps and coins here，in the State Philatelic and Numismatic Office in the capital.

几个月前，我才亲眼看见圣马力诺，这个世界上最小的国家之一，此前我几乎从没听说过这个国家。

圣马力诺，位于意大利腹地，占地仅六十一平方公里(为浦东面积的九分之一)，而且多为山地；其正式居民仅为三万(为浦东人口的六十二分之一)，且有一万两千人旅居在外。

然而，若是你了解这小块土地的丰富历史，你在这个小国旅行定会惊喜不断。

在圣马力诺共和国境内，人们深深地崇拜着他们国家的传奇缔造者——圣马力诺斯。民间流传着这样一个传说，说是当年这位石匠师父为躲避罗马皇帝迪奥克勒地昂的迫害，离开了故土(位于达尔玛提亚的亚比岛)，来到提它诺山，建立了一个小小的基督徒教区。

很肯定地说，早在史前时期就有人居住于圣马力诺地区，并在山上建有井然有序的文明社会，但遗憾的是，如今能够见证它的悠久历史的，却只有那中世纪的修道院、教堂及城堡。当罗马帝国日趋衰落，而教皇的世俗势力尚未稳固时，圣马力诺的人民决定像意大利的其它城市小国一样建立自己的政府。于是，一个自由的城邦诞生了。

如今，圣马力诺是个独立的共和国，它奉行民主，保持中立，并依然信守着某些古老的传统。

首府圣马力诺的中部，就是它的古遗址所在地。

在提它诺山的悬崖峭壁上耸立着三座威严的堡垒——拉怪塔、拉塞斯塔和莽塔勒。三座城堡如今依然城墙相连，山路相通，直达山下的城镇。夕阳下，峭壁堡垒尽沐金色余辉，仿佛都行进在历史的深处。人们在圣马力诺的角角落落里寻觅着它那独特的古韵遗风，颇似好莱坞大片中的中世纪场景。

当初，建造这三座堡垒都是为了抵御外来侵犯者。然而，它们并不像同时期类似建筑那样充满浓重的军事色彩，因此，徜徉于美丽高山上的古堡要塞之间，你定会心旷神怡乐而忘返。总的说来，这三座堡垒是游客的最爱之地，其中，拉塞斯塔城堡里还有古代兵器博物馆。

圣马力诺城外环绕着诸多关口、塔楼还有大型防御墙，层层相连，形成三大防御墙。这座古城最具魅力的地方就在它的城内，这里的街道、建筑，无论新旧，都用石头建成，看起来都跟几百年前一样古朴真切。

令我更惊讶的是，在这座城里竟有那么多的博物馆，美术展、民间手工艺品展、新式武器、汽车以及蜡像作品一应俱全。

而我更爱到城外去，领略提它诺山的美景，漫步山坡上，与松林为伴，流连于自然公园里。这里气候宜人，既无酷暑也无严寒，平均气温只有十六摄氏度，漫步于此真乃人生一大快事。

提它诺山的周围分散着八个小镇，那里的城堡和教堂也值得一看。

然而，表面的平静祥和并不能掩盖圣马力诺人对一项活动的狂热。每年一到夏天，五花八门的乡俗传统节目就会上演，一直演到夏末。而在这些节目中最重要的无疑是弓弩比赛，于每年的国庆日九月三号在圣马力诺城举行。

在圣马力诺，最令女人们兴奋的莫过于逛街购物。在这里，艺术陶瓷制品十分有名，琳琅满目的瓷器摆满了商店。曾经有人跟我说他在一家小店里买了一个罐子，上面的图案令人印象深刻：一个女子正在灯下缝补，但她缝补的不是衣服而是一颗破碎的心。后来我试图去买一个一模一样的，但终未如愿。不过，我寻到的几个印有蓝色图案和圣马力诺风景的也不错。

如果你爱好收藏的话，你可到圣马力诺首府的国家集邮及钱币局去，在这里你能买到当地邮票和钱币。★