Ｃｈｏｎｇｍｉｎｇ：Ｔａｋｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ Ｅｃｏｌｏｇｉｃａｌ Ｒｏａｄ ｏｆ Ｄｅｖｅｌｏｐｍｅｎｔ

ＷＵ　ＭＥＩＬＩＮＧ

DURING the 17th CPC National Congress in October 2007, I interviewed Sun Lei, secretary of the CPC Chongming County Committee. His description of Chongming, sometimes called the “Shangri-la of Shanghai,” aroused my curiosity. So on a drizzling autumn day I took a boat to this island nestled in the Yangtze River Delta. After landing I was immediately struck by the islands quiet, a stark contrast to the bustle of Shanghai. There were no high-rise buildings or hurrying pedestrians. I sauntered into the peaceful setting as if entering a meditative wonderland.

Chongming is one of the three islands comprising Chongming County at the mouth of the Yangtze River. From its birthplace on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, the Yangtze flows through ten provinces before reaching this point. The tons of silt brought here every year by the rivers flow have formed the worlds three largest alluvial islands: Chongming, Changxing and Hengsha. Chongming is in fact the third largest island of China, surpassed only by Taiwan and Hainan. If the Yangtze River is a dragon stretched across the nation, and the Yangtze River Delta its head, then the three islands are bright pearls in the dragons crown. They are also the site of a new experiment in ecologically-friendly development.

On July 27, 2004, Hu Jintao, general secretary of the Communist Party of China and president of the Peoples Republic of China, made an inspection tour of Chongming. He instructed that the local people should, under the philosophy of the scientific mode of development, retain the advantages of their wonderful natural surrounds and take an environmentally sustainable path of development.

When I spoke to Sun Lei in Beijing he commented, “We are seeking to fully protect the environment, breaking the past mould of polluting first and tackling environmental problems later, to build a modern ecologically-friendly island. Blazing a new path is more difficult than taking an old road, but we relish the opportunity.”

Chongming County falls under the jurisdiction of the Shanghai government, and offers a strategic space for the citys continued expansion. Chongming New City, the Dongtan International Conference Center, the Chang-xing Oceanic Equipment Manufacturing Base, and the Hengsha Holiday Resort are the strategic basis of the countys pursuit of its green development goals.

Natural Charms

I was told by a friend that while on Chongming I would be awoken by the sound of birds singing – hard to believe when you live in Beijing. On my first morning I was indeed awoken by chirps. But my joy at hearing this sound was nothing compared to the sight of Dongtan Wetland in the dawn light.

Dongtan is one of the worlds few growing wetlands in a river mouth, currently increasing at a rate of 80 to 100 meters a year. Standing on a huge rock on the wetlands sightseeing embankment, I was astounded by the scene as the red sun gradually rose from a vast field of reed marshes with waterfowls hovering overhead. Strolling on the landing stage built of fir timber, the dawn sun and sea wind reminded me of a passage by Japanese writer Tokutomi Roka; “When the tide ebbs, small crabs crawl at the roots of reeds on the sand beach full of tiny holes.” I lowered my eyes to look. Xiao Yang from the islands Publicity Department handed me a reed, saying that small crabs may well crawl along it. But I couldnt bear to disturb those small creatures.

The Dongtan Wetland covers an area of 30,000 hectares, and is a famous habitat for over 1 million migratory birds of the Asia-Pacific Region that pass through here every year. More than 130 species of the area are under protection. These include 3,000 or so small swans who nest here during winter.

At the wetland I met a man named Jin Weiguo. He once made a living by capturing birds, but is now an expert on their protection. He can call different types simply by whistling. He told me, “Many migratory birds come here from Australia. Their body weight drops from 1,000 to 500 grams. We must help them build up their strength with nourishing food, so they can fly on to Siberia.” Jin Weiguo is representative of the pro-environmental attitude of the Chongming population.

Later that day I took a leisurely roam in Dongping National Forest Park, breathing in great lungfuls of Chongmings fresh air. The park not only offers visitors the quiet of nature, but also the chance to participate in challenging extreme sports such as swinging across the river, rock climbing and grass-sliding.

An Island Rich in

Historical Sites

As well as its stunning natural scenery, Chongming Island has a long history of human settlement and offers an array of historical sites. The earliest traces of human settlement date back to AD 696, the first year of the Wansui Tongtian Reign of the Tang Dynasty. That year woodcutters landed on the island looking to make a living. In AD 705, the first year of Shenlong Reign of the Tang Dynasty, the government established Chongming Town. Chongming means a “vast flatland surrounded by water.” Over the ages people of more than ten ethnic groups from all over China have settled here.

“Yingzhou of the East Sea” was a name given to Chongming by Zhu Yuanzhang, the founding emperor of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). In ancient myths, Yingzhou of the East Sea was an island inhabited by immortals. The First Emperor of the Qin Dynasty (221-207 B.C.) and Emperor Wudi of the Han Dynasty (206 B.C.-A.D. 220) both sent expeditions to look for this fabled land, but never found it. ZhuYuanzhang gave the name to Chongming following a dream.

In more recent times, Chongming Academy served both as a local official school and a place to worship the ancient educator and thinker Confucius. It is now one of the islands best-known historical structures and the largest Confucian Temple in the Shanghai area. Standing under the Academys archways and looking at the magnificent ancient architecture, I imagined generations of scholars studying here and sighed with emotion. Among the many scholars who entered officialdom through this academy are a number of outstanding historical figures, such as Shen Tingyang, a navigator and vice Minister of War in the late Ming Dynasty. Other figures include Song Qingyi, Grand Academician of the Wenhua Hall of the Qing Dynasty, and Li Fengbao, well-known diplomat of the late Qing Dynasty. Passing through Lingxing Gate and crossing Denggao Bridge, one enters Dacheng Hall, where a statue of Confucius is worshipped. Confucian theories cover almost all the essentials of traditional Chinese culture and have provided the basis of education for generations of Chinese people.

After visiting the Chongming Academy, Xiao Yang led me to Shouan Temple. Located at the southern end of Jinao Mountain, 2.5 kilometers east of Chongming county town, Shouan is one of the islands four ancient temples. It was built during the Chunyou Reign of the Song Dynasty, and has a history of more than 700 years. The temple is home to a collection of stone tablets bearing the handwriting of well-known men of letters, which attract casual visitors and pilgrims from all over the country.

Jinao Mountain overlooks the temple and is a famous landmark on the island. Many legends circulate about its history. One says that when Chongming native Shen Wengao participated in the highest-ranking imperial examinations he attained third place (tanhua). Back home, he hired people to haul earth and created Jinao Mountain overnight. Jinao Mountain Park was badly damaged in the turmoil of the 1940s and by liberation in 1949 only Zhenhai Tower was still standing. Recent years have seen all the buildings reconstructed, but the red brick tower remains the parks heart. Ascending to its top, I enjoyed a panoramic view of the surrounding parkland and the Yangtze River. The mountain and water formed a beautiful organic whole.

Following my climb it was a pleasure to take rest in Qingliang Cave. Folklore says the cave was cleaved out of rock by the sword of Lü Dongbin, one of the eight immortals in a popular Chinese legend. Finally, a pause on Deyue Bridge offered another view of the Yangtze River. The bridge was constructed by local magistrate Fan Guotai in 1772.

To truly revel in Chongmings rustic charms, urbanite tourists can take the “Happy Farm Households Tour,” which allows visitors to try a little farm work, eat a farm dinner, stay in farmhouses and enjoy some genuine farmers folklore. In visiting a farming household, tourists are likely to find themselves eating some of Chongmings famous crabs. Locally these creatures are called “hengpa” (crawling sideways) or “bazhijiao” (eight feet), though their scientific name is Eriocheir sinensis. Eating these delicacies while being regaled with farmers stories in local dialect is a truly memorable experience.

Chongmings island status has given it a tradition of folk arts and literature quite different to the mainland. Mudanting, a local form of folk music, is one example. Performed on a unique range of stringed, woodwind and percussion instruments, Mudanting is usually heard during festivals and holidays. Shoulder-pole puppet shows and zaohua wall paintings also feature in Chongmings distinctive selection of folk arts.

Changxing Islands

Vibrant Industry

In contrast to Chongmings peaceful reputation, neighboring Changxing Island is closely linked with machine building. It has become the largest port machinery manufacturing and shipbuilding base in the world.

The islands industry briefly featured in news broadcasts around the world when President Hu Jintao (then vice-president) visited the United States in 2002. Hus party were about to cross San Franciscos Golden Gate Bridge when they were informed the road would be closed for 25 minutes due to the passing of a ship with a particularly tall cargo. American TV stations broadcast the passage of the Shanghai Zhenhua Port Machinery Company (ZPMC) ship live across the country. On board were four Chinese port container cranes, which passed under the bridge with only a few dozen centimeters to spare. People flocked from across the city to see the enormous machines. That evening at a banquet held in honor of President Hu Jintao, the mayor of San Francisco made a speech in which he thanked “China for sending such good products to our city.”

ZPMC is the large-scale port hoisting equipment manufacturing enterprise that produced the cranes. Company president and entrepreneur Guan Tong established the business in 1992 at age 60. In 14 years, the operation has made great strides under his leadership, and now has a 50 percent share of the worlds port machinery market.

Despite its status as a large port machinery manufacturing and shipbuilding base, Changxing has much more to offer than just industry. There are still many villages full of local flavor, and fishermen carrying bamboo fish hampers are a common sight. In developing local industries, equal emphasis has been placed on environmentally friendly construction.

A Pearl That Shines Ever Brighter

Chongming Island was born from the waters of the Yangtze, and its development has also been restricted by the mighty river. Linking Chongming with Shanghai has long been a dream of Chongmings inhabitants. To realize this aspiration and strengthen economic interaction within the Yangtze River Delta, the Shanghai Yangtze Cross-River Tunnel and Bridge Project was begun on December 28, 2004. This enormous undertaking will soon be completed. Currently the ferry between Chongming and Shanghai takes 45 minutes, with availability at the mercy of weather conditions. After completion of the bridge and tunnel, the journey to Shanghai will be shortened to just 20 minutes, bringing huge development opportunities to the island.

As the evening lights were coming on all over Chongming, I bid farewell to this peaceful island and returned to the high-rise metropolis of Shanghai. A promising future seems in store for Chongming – a future which will see the pearl of the Yangtze shine even more brightly.