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WINTER in Harbin, also known as “snow city,” sees howling northwest winds whipping up snowflakes as big as goose feathers. Going outdoors means wrapping your head in a scarf, shielding your eyes and bending to the wind. But despite the rather chilly conditions, the city is one of Chinas most popular winter tourist destinations.

A glance at the map reveals why Harbin is so cold; as the capital of Heilongjiang Province in Chinas far northeast, its the nations northernmost capital, situated not too far from Siberia. Furthermore, its location on the Songnen Plain means there are no natural geographic features to block the biting Siberian winds. The cold season lasts from November to May and temperatures may drop to as low asminus 38°C. The conditions bring to mind images of the Inuit people, more commonly known in the West as “Eskimos,” and its said that the traditional style of living, dressing and fishing in the area once closely resembled the Inuit lifestyle.

Subzero temperatures dont slow down the locals though – Harbin is a veritable winter playground featuring a range of winter sports and recreational activities. Predictably, skiing and skating are favorite pastimes. The young at heart can indulge in building a snowman and having a snowball fight. Those of a more hardy disposition can join the locals in a winter swim, said to be excellent for the health. Holes are cut in the ice for diving and swimming, with bathers usually surrounded by a group of fur-coat wearing onlookers.

Perhaps Harbins most famous attraction is the International Ice and Snow Festival held annually from January 5 to the end of February. This is the oldest and largest ice festival in the world, incorporating stunning ice and snow sculptures, an ice-lantern theme park, a skiing festival, and Ice and Snow World Amusement Park.

Harbins attractions arent all about ice though; beneath the snow is a fascinating range of foreign architectural styles reflecting the citys checkered history. In the late 19th century, Tsarist Russia was granted a concession in the city and built a railway linking Harbin and Vladivostok, but lost control of the line after Japan occupied Harbin in 1932. Nevertheless there continued to be a strong Russian presence in Harbin until the mid-20th century, and today Russians flock to the city as tourists. Over the years the city has seen waves of immigrants from nearly 20 countries, including Russia, Germany, America, Britain, Sweden and Korea. Even though most of these emigrants left many years ago, their legacy is still evident in the European-style churches and other buildings, as well as former street names like Warsaw Street (now Anping Street) and Kazakhstan Street (now Gaoyi Street).

Western cultural traditions also live on in Harbin. The citys youngsters are still keen on Christmas, and local girls commonly wear long woolen skirts and knee-length boots. Ice cream is a popular confectionary despite the cold temperatures, and adults have the habit of drinking beer Russian-style from large cups. And like many elderly Russians, older Harbin residents are not adverse to a spot of winter swimming or hunting.

A strong foreign influence also lives on in the local cuisine. Huamei Restaurant is a time-honored Harbin Western eating establishment popular with locals and tourists alike. Not only is the dinner service exquisite, the food is also delectable, and includes such Russian dishes as mutton and beef stew pot and borsch. Opposite Huamei is the French-style building of the Modern Hotel, containing a bar famous for its iced yogurt and hot coffee. Shopaholics can roam through the long-established Russian-style Qiulin Department Store, which sells genuine Russian red sausages and French meat pies.

So although Harbin may be Chinas coldest metropolis, the city is anything but a winter wasteland. The citys fascinating history, myriad culinary influences, ice sculptures and winter recreational activities will warm the heart of even the most jaded tourist.